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Suddenly Hot CPU. The store wants me to pay 120$ just to find the problem. :(

Hello, I have tried to find a solution for this for so long right now and it seems almost impossible to solve the issue, maybe the best thing to do is to trash the pc and buy a new one :(

I would really appriciate if anyone could help me solve this. I would be very greatful.

Specs:

Intel core i5 4670k (Haswell) Never overclocked it! 4 years old

Motherboard:  Socket 1150 Gigabyte z87-HD3 Never overclocked it!! 4 years old

PSU: Corsair CX600 Modern 80+ bronze 4 years old

Ram: Vengeance DDR3 1666Mhz 2x 8gb 4 years old

Gpu: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1060 6gb 2 months old (Previous was r9 270x sapphire pre OCed)

CPU cooler: Corsair Hydro H60 v2 (Watercooler) 2 weeks old. (Had the same one before but the store gave me a new one due to remaining warranty.)

 

Okay, here is the story of how the PC started to act so weird.

2 months ago I bought a new GPU, I got the new 1060 6gb, I installed it without any problems and it was running perfectly fine, At this time My cpu cooler was 3 years old. Same kind as I have new but just a older one. One day the pc just turned off by itself and it would not turn back on. It would restart in an infinite loop. I shut it down by pulling the plug and it was fine after a few hours. This issue kind of repeated the next day so I went online to check for some solutions. I found that dust and stuff like that could be the problem so I completley cleaned my computer from all the dust. I used a vaccuum cleaner to clean the radiator and some other places. I never vacuumed the gpu or cpu or barely the motherboard however. I did vacuum clean the fan of the powersupply. AFter cleaning it from dust it worked perfectly fine and I was able to use it properly again.

 

Then one month later I started to get really high cpu temperatures and the cpu fan went crazy all of a sudden. the temperature was 100 degrees celcius. I shut the pc off and after a few hours it was fine and the problem would come back on startup from time to time, and it just got worse. Recently It has been 70 degrees celcius on idle each time I start the pc. If I enter bios its always 80+ and I can hear the cpu fan go crazy. I asked on this forum what the issue may be and they said its the cooler, I changed back to stock cooler and I got the same problem. I thought it might have been because of the cooling paste. So I cleaned it with the alcohol thingy you use for these kind of things which I got from the store. And Reapplied and I still got the same issue. Even after changing the cooler I got the same issue. Some people believed that it is because the air intake/outtakes are badly installed. It can't be because of that since it can work perfectly fine sometimes with 24 degrees celcius even if I play for 20 hours straight it NEVER goes above 50 degrees Celcius. 

 

I reecntly discovered that If I enter the bios and change the cpu fan speed from normal to Manual and then exit and save everything works perfect. But after a day or two it goes back to the normal bullshit. and I read over 70 degrees + the cpu fan goes crazy. I tried to change it back from manual to normal today and now its working fine to.

 

What is the problem? How can it work completley perfectly fine one day and the next it is super hot?! I am going mad. Please help me. Thanks.

Edited by Ghost
Snipped money out
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Try updating your BIOS and CPU/Mobo drivers, then see if the Manual fan setting stays on.

Elemental 

Spoiler

Intel i5 6500 @3.8ghz - 8GB HyperX - 600w Apex PSU - GTX 1060 G1 GIGABYTE 6GB - s340 Black - 240gb Toshiba Q300 - Cooler master TX3i - MSI z170-A PRO.

Old Build (sold for 290€)

Spoiler

Intel i3 540 @ 3.9ghz (On stock cooler, Hits 80c max) - 8gb ram - 500w power supply - P7H55-M LE  120gb SSD - Talius Drakko case

Project Frug 50$ Water loop

 

Laptops

Spoiler

13" Macbook Air - Alienware m14x r2 -  2009 15" Macbook Pro (I was give all of these and would never buy them myself)

 

 

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You don't need to worry about paying anybody, as the point of this forum is to help you out for free (It's kind of a hobby, at least for me). :D

 

Do you have any screen caps of the CPU and GPU usage when the temp spikes? And do you have a second PSU, air cooler, the old GPU, etc?I'd recommend swapping those out one by one, to isolate the issue. First try a different PSU, if it works, good. If it still has the problem, try swapping out the PGUs, then try and air cooler. Also, make sure and reset the CMOS before you do anything else. And if you're up to it, see if there is a BIOS update for your mobo, as it may have fixed this issue. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Go into BIOS and at the last page in Advanced View there should be a "Load Optimized Default Settings" or something of this sort. Click it and restart.
 

Also. With CPU-Z, Hardwaremonitor or OCCT in Windows (or even EasyFan from ASUS or your mobo vendor solution) check voltages being put on the CPU.
CPU-Z usually shows a little high, so on IDLE you should see something about 1-1.1V or lower I believe. If you have 1.4+ on idle then I suspect that the VRM on the mobo MAY be faulty?

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4 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

You don't need to worry about paying anybody, as the point of this forum is to help you out for free (It's kind of a hobby, at least for me). :D

 

Do you have any screen caps of the CPU and GPU usage when the temp spikes? And do you have a second PSU, air cooler, the old GPU, etc?I'd recommend swapping those out one by one, to isolate the issue. First try a different PSU, if it works, good. If it still has the problem, try swapping out the PGUs, then try and air cooler. Also, make sure and reset the CMOS before you do anything else. And if you're up to it, see if there is a BIOS update for your mobo, as it may have fixed this issue. 

Same i like helping people and making tech memes e.e

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6 minutes ago, Julian5 said:

Try updating your BIOS and CPU/Mobo drivers, then see if the Manual fan setting stays on.

How do I update the Bios? I am really nooby at this.

6 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

You don't need to worry about paying anybody, as the point of this forum is to help you out for free (It's kind of a hobby, at least for me). :D

 

Do you have any screen caps of the CPU and GPU usage when the temp spikes? And do you have a second PSU, air cooler, the old GPU, etc?I'd recommend swapping those out one by one, to isolate the issue. First try a different PSU, if it works, good. If it still has the problem, try swapping out the PGUs, then try and air cooler. Also, make sure and reset the CMOS before you do anything else. And if you're up to it, see if there is a BIOS update for your mobo, as it may have fixed this issue. 

Thanks I appriciate it. I really highly doubt its the gpu as the issues didn't start until 2 months after swapping gpu. Ive tried the air stock cooler with reapplied paste and the issue remains. I don't have a diffrent psu unfortunately. Do you really think the PSU could be the main issue?? I have no idea what reset CMOS mean. How do I check for BIOS updates There most surely is a bios update as its over 4 years old now, I have no idea how to update it however. Appriciate it, I really do.

4 minutes ago, Zubkover said:

Go into BIOS and at the last page in Advanced View there should be a "Load Optimized Default Settings" or something of this sort. Click it and restart.
 

Also. With CPU-Z, Hardwaremonitor or OCCT in Windows (or even EasyFan from ASUS or your mobo vendor solution) check voltages being put on the CPU.
CPU-Z usually shows a little high, so on IDLE you should see something about 1-1.1V or lower I believe. If you have 1.4+ on idle then I suspect that the VRM on the mobo MAY be faulty?

Voltage is 1.132 something like that. I could do that laod optimized default settings, will it help?  

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Just now, zindan said:

How do I update the Bios? I am really nooby at this.

Thanks I appriciate it. I really highly doubt its the gpu as the issues didn't start until 2 months after swapping gpu. Ive tried the air stock cooler with reapplied paste and the issue remains. I don't have a diffrent psu unfortunately. Do you really think the PSU could be the main issue?? I have no idea what reset CMOS mean. How do I check for BIOS updates There most surely is a bios update as its over 4 years old now, I have no idea how to update it however. Appriciate it, I really do.

Voltage is 1.132 something like that. I could do that laod optimized default settings, will it help?  

The CMOS is just the BIOS settings. Just unplug the PSU from the mobo, remove the small watch battery from the mobo, and let it sit a few minutes. That'll reset the CMOS. Then just pop the battery back in, plug the PSU back into the mobo, and try it out. 

 

For updating the BIOS, go to the support section of your mobo manufacturer, find your exact mobo, check under "Drivers & Downloads" (The title will be something like that), and it should be there. They should have instructions as well. Just be patient if it takes a bit, as you don't want to mess up your BIOS.

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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2 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

The CMOS is just the BIOS settings. Just unplug the PSU from the mobo, remove the small watch battery from the mobo, and let it sit a few minutes. That'll reset the CMOS. Then just pop the battery back in, plug the PSU back into the mobo, and try it out. 

 

For updating the BIOS, go to the support section of your mobo manufacturer, find your exact mobo, check under "Drivers & Downloads" (The title will be something like that), and it should be there. They should have instructions as well. Just be patient if it takes a bit, as you don't want to mess up your BIOS.

Okay so basicly take the battery out, keep the pc off right ? or turn it on without the battery? I downloaded the bios update but it does not contain like a auto setup file so how do I update it ?

http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z87-HD3-rev-1x#support-dl

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1 minute ago, zindan said:

Okay so basicly take the battery out, keep the pc off right ? or turn it on without the battery? I downloaded the bios update but it does not contain like a auto setup file so how do I update it ?

http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z87-HD3-rev-1x#support-dl

Keep it off until you put the battery back in. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Just now, Zando Bob said:

Keep it off until you put the battery back in. 

Okay, I'l try it tomorow and get back after I tried everything I have been suggested to do. I also should tell you that I completley wiped all disks and reinstalled windows just to make sure its not a software issue.

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Just now, zindan said:

Okay, I'l try it tomorow and get back after I tried everything I have been suggested to do. I also should tell you that I completley wiped all disks and reinstalled windows just to make sure its not a software issue.

From what I can see, you'll want to update your USB driver (In case you have to use a USB), then download version F8 (The latest version, with fixes for K series CPUs), then run the efiflash.exe in the folder (Can't test it, as I'm on a Mac).

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Just a one tip on the post above on the battery...

...you can discharge capacitors on motherboard faster.

 

1. Turn off pc.

2. Unplug PSU from wall

3. Try powering on pc

4. Remove the mobo BIOS battery

5. Try powering it on again

6. ~1min
7. Put battery back in

8. Plug PSU back into the wall socket

9. Power it on, check result.

 

And about voltage... it SEEMS fine.

It looks as if there would be something with TIM or sth...
You can also try laying the PC on it's side, so the mobo would be flat, and then unscrewing the cooler and just let it sit with the force of the gravity...

...or perform some sanding on a mirror for the CPU heatsink. I forgot how that was called in english...

 

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3 minutes ago, Zubkover said:

Just a one tip on the post above on the battery...

...you can discharge capacitors on motherboard faster.

 

1. Turn off pc.

2. Unplug PSU from wall

3. Try powering on pc

4. Remove the mobo BIOS battery

5. Try powering it on again

6. ~1min
7. Put battery back in

8. Plug PSU back into the wall socket

9. Power it on, check result.

 

And about voltage... it SEEMS fine.

It looks as if there would be something with TIM or sth...
You can also try laying the PC on it's side, so the mobo would be flat, and then unscrewing the cooler and just let it sit with the force of the gravity...

...or perform some sanding on a mirror for the CPU heatsink. I forgot how that was called in english...

 

I doubt the cpu is the issue though as he iss getting fine temps and then they suddenly rise, seems software related more than hardware.

Elemental 

Spoiler

Intel i5 6500 @3.8ghz - 8GB HyperX - 600w Apex PSU - GTX 1060 G1 GIGABYTE 6GB - s340 Black - 240gb Toshiba Q300 - Cooler master TX3i - MSI z170-A PRO.

Old Build (sold for 290€)

Spoiler

Intel i3 540 @ 3.9ghz (On stock cooler, Hits 80c max) - 8gb ram - 500w power supply - P7H55-M LE  120gb SSD - Talius Drakko case

Project Frug 50$ Water loop

 

Laptops

Spoiler

13" Macbook Air - Alienware m14x r2 -  2009 15" Macbook Pro (I was give all of these and would never buy them myself)

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Julian5 said:

I doubt the cpu is the issue though as he iss getting fine temps and then they suddenly rise, seems software related more than hardware.

True. But working for over 6 months now in IT service shop taught me that when issue arrises EXPECT EVERYTHING. xD

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Just now, Zubkover said:

True. But working for over 6 months now in IT service shop taught me that when issue arrises EXPECT EVERYTHING. xD

Yeah I know, Im just making predictions based on the information given, though I know predictions can be very far from reality

Elemental 

Spoiler

Intel i5 6500 @3.8ghz - 8GB HyperX - 600w Apex PSU - GTX 1060 G1 GIGABYTE 6GB - s340 Black - 240gb Toshiba Q300 - Cooler master TX3i - MSI z170-A PRO.

Old Build (sold for 290€)

Spoiler

Intel i3 540 @ 3.9ghz (On stock cooler, Hits 80c max) - 8gb ram - 500w power supply - P7H55-M LE  120gb SSD - Talius Drakko case

Project Frug 50$ Water loop

 

Laptops

Spoiler

13" Macbook Air - Alienware m14x r2 -  2009 15" Macbook Pro (I was give all of these and would never buy them myself)

 

 

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4 hours ago, vaiwalker said:

maybe the cpu watercooler pump is dying? 

Iv'e had it for 2 weeks how could it be dying? And why did I get the same issue with the air cooler?

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1 minute ago, zindan said:

Iv'e had it for 2 weeks how could it be dying? And why did I get the same issue with the air cooler?

bad quality control and so on. There are many reasons for it. Is the pump even running?

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