What's wrong with my 3d printer.

[werto165]

Basically I'm not sure what to do, I've changed my steps per mm on the z axis as to begin with moving 100 mm in my host software but it moved 90mm instead so I altered the value to get it round about that. However basically when it's creating a new layer it'll move the z axis too high and then it'll cause what you see below on the side view. Using PLA too. 

 

It's an anet a8 with a ramps board running Marlin. 

 

 

[NumLock21]

It will be cheaper to just buy a taffy and squeeze it.

 

[gtx1060=value]

@manikyath

[Hackentosher]

Did you just send a command to adjust the steps/mm or did you actually go into the firmware? It sounds like the adjustment didnt save. 

[werto165]

12 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

Did you just send a command to adjust the steps/mm or did you actually go into the firmware? It sounds like the adjustment didnt save. 

enabled eeprom from in the firmware and made sure the changes were set with m500 and check afterwards and the values changed they were x80 x80 and 4000z 

[manikyath]

how is your bed leveling?

 

i've been eyeballin' it on my printer, but what i recommend is to preheat your printer (mine preheats to 50°c on the bed, and 185°c on the print head, which is good enough to account for hot metal expanding), use a piece of paper as a spacer, and adjust your bed until you just *barely* can move the sheet of paper around under the printhead without friction.

[Taylor Dettling]

On 1/27/2017 at 8:48 PM, werto165 said:

Basically I'm not sure what to do, I've changed my steps per mm on the z axis as to begin with moving 100 mm in my host software but it moved 90mm instead so I altered the value to get it round about that. However basically when it's creating a new layer it'll move the z axis too high and then it'll cause what you see below on the side view. Using PLA too. 

 

It's an anet a8 with a ramps board running Marlin. 

 

 

Something tells me that this is bed leveling. I am pretty experienced with 3D printing and usually a result like that is because of a unlevel print bed. Looks like you have a manual bed level with screws. Will need to run the bed level setup if it has one. If it does't just move it to each corner and level it till it is pretty close but not too close. Try a 20mm test cube and if the layers look smashed and smoothed then it is too low. If it looks more lie your result it is too high. You want the lines that it prints in to be clean but well stuck to the previous line of plastic. It is a a tedious process but you can't have it too high or too low.  

[werto165]

6 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Something tells me that this is bed leveling. I am pretty experienced with 3D printing and usually a result like that is because of a unlevel print bed. Looks like you have a manual bed level with screws. Will need to run the bed level setup if it has one. If it does't just move it to each corner and level it till it is pretty close but not too close. Try a 20mm test cube and if the layers look smashed and smoothed then it is too low. If it looks more lie your result it is too high. You want the lines that it prints in to be clean but well stuck to the previous line of plastic. It is a a tedious process but you can't have it too high or too low.  

It's not looking too bad now, is it just the flow rate that's too high that's causing the blobby sides? 

[Taylor Dettling]

8 minutes ago, werto165 said:

It's not looking too bad now, is it just the flow rate that's too high that's causing the blobby sides? 

Try putting your flow rate to 0.95. That is better than it was but it is still really bad compared to what I get on my printers. (I have a Ultimaker 2+, a Printerbot Simple Metal 2015 with heated bed, a Wanhao duplicator i3 v2.) You should be able to achieve really good results if you mess with hardware and software calibration enough. See if you can get your prints to look more like that by messing with extrusion multiplier and possibly hot end temperature 

[werto165]

3 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Try putting your flow rate to 0.95. That is better than it was but it is still really bad compared to what I get on my printers. (I have a Ultimaker 2+, a Printerbot Simple Metal 2015 with heated bed, a Wanhao duplicator i3 v2.) You should be able to achieve really good results if you mess with hardware and software calibration enough. See if you can get your prints to look more like that by messing with extrusion multiplier and possibly hot end temperature 

Nice, I guess I had it coming to me with the cheap chinese i3 clone. At least the electronics won't burn down my house now it's running ramps and I've got rid  of those horrible connectors for the power and soldered it directly to the board. Would you recommend getting a set of vernier calipers and measuring the filament, I've seen from places online that that could be a good idea. 

[werto165]

6 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Try putting your flow rate to 0.95. That is better than it was but it is still really bad compared to what I get on my printers. (I have a Ultimaker 2+, a Printerbot Simple Metal 2015 with heated bed, a Wanhao duplicator i3 v2.) You should be able to achieve really good results if you mess with hardware and software calibration enough. See if you can get your prints to look more like that by messing with extrusion multiplier and possibly hot end temperature 

 

 

 

https://gyazo.com/859a0f96c2705c467426031ae2e33599 

https://gyazo.com/534ae5b391ff1825c7b8df3f4db89799

https://gyazo.com/201416822fbce4c5eb24a96bfd55b7e8

 

anything else worth changing there? 

 

[Taylor Dettling]

21 minutes ago, werto165 said:

https://gyazo.com/859a0f96c2705c467426031ae2e33599 

https://gyazo.com/534ae5b391ff1825c7b8df3f4db89799

https://gyazo.com/201416822fbce4c5eb24a96bfd55b7e8

 

anything else worth changing there? 

 

Everything seems fine but I have not used Cura in quite a while. I have Simplify3D (I highly recommend it even thought the cost is a bit steep). It has that profile stock and if you want you can send me the stl and I can try slicing it to see if that helps then I can tell you the settings. Also does your printer have a heated bed?

[werto165]

5 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Everything seems fine but I have not used Cura in quite a while. I have Simplify3D (I highly recommend it even thought the cost is a bit steep). It has that profile stock and if you want you can send me the stl and I can try slicing it to see if that helps then I can tell you the settings. Also does your printer have a heated bed?

Yeah it does I think something else might be a little off with the printer though. I was just doing a brim on a print and the layers overlapped, I'm sure they're meant to be flat on the bed. unless I really need to reduce the flow rate... Not sure about the file thought it could be a little stupid to print off I should really separate it into multiple components but wth. The only setting I really changed was the retraction distance to 3mm and the speed to 30mm/s on the retraction. could try something simple I guess too. Cheers. 

Oculus Mount Assv1.stl

Cube.stl

[Taylor Dettling]

6 minutes ago, werto165 said:

Yeah it does I think something else might be a little off with the printer though. I was just doing a brim on a print and the layers overlapped, I'm sure they're meant to be flat on the bed. unless I really need to reduce the flow rate... Not sure about the file thought it could be a little stupid to print off I should really separate it into multiple components but wth. The only setting I really changed was the retraction distance to 3mm and the speed to 30mm/s on the retraction. could try something simple I guess too. Cheers. 

Oculus Mount Assv1.stl

Cube.stl

Try these. 

Cube.gcode

Oculus Mount Assv1_Layout1.gcode

[werto165]

25 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Try these. 

Cube.gcode

Oculus Mount Assv1_Layout1.gcode

trying them now, cheers

[werto165]

@Taylor Dettling

It's doing the same thing as before, unless it's just a bad model by me but the hotend keeps mushing into the previous layer ever so slightly. I think I need to double check my z axis steps per mm. And I'll try again, basically it sounds like bubble gum being popped.  Do you know if there's a student version of simplify 3d? I can't really afford it right now. 

[Taylor Dettling]

10 minutes ago, werto165 said:

@Taylor Dettling

It's doing the same thing as before, unless it's just a bad model by me but the hotend keeps mushing into the previous layer ever so slightly. I think I need to double check my z axis steps per mm. And I'll try again, basically it sounds like bubble gum being popped.  Do you know if there's a student version of simplify 3d? I can't really afford it right now. 

I have the student version. You need to email their support but it isn't much cheaper. It sounds like the slicer isn't the problem here though so you can get the slicer later on down the road. Any way you can send me a video of it printing? It can be pretty hard to tell exactly what is going on when you can't see the printer going. I don't quite know how i feel about the steps per mm. I think it is most likely a different cause

[NumLock21]

5 hours ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Try putting your flow rate to 0.95. That is better than it was but it is still really bad compared to what I get on my printers. (I have a Ultimaker 2+, a Printerbot Simple Metal 2015 with heated bed, a Wanhao duplicator i3 v2.) You should be able to achieve really good results if you mess with hardware and software calibration enough. See if you can get your prints to look more like that by messing with extrusion multiplier and possibly hot end temperature

 

 

Is that a T-rex shower head?

[Taylor Dettling]

4 hours ago, NumLock21 said:

Is that a T-rex shower head?

Yep. It was the 4th print I did so it isn't my best work but it is decent

 

[Taylor Dettling]

Here is what ended up solving for OP: Changed extruder steps per mm and Z steps for mm. Reduced flow rate. Metal rods seem to be bent on x-axis.

[NumLock21]

1 minute ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Yep.

That gray 3D sculpture looks, like one of the adult male toys.

 

[Taylor Dettling]

1 minute ago, NumLock21 said:

That gray 3D sculpture looks, like one of the adult male toys.

 

Hmm never looked at it like that.  It is a continuous Z vase 

[NumLock21]

4 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Hmm never looked at it like that.  It is a continuous Z vase 

I know it does not look like it, but a Japanese company decided to do something different and came up with that type of design.

 

Spoiler

 

[werto165]

3 minutes ago, Taylor Dettling said:

Changed extruder steps per mm and Z steps for mm. Reduced flow rate.

Yep thats pretty much it. For the extruder calibration just followed this 

 

And then set my layer height to 0.3mm, used vernier calipers for my z axis calibration. 

[Taylor Dettling]

1 minute ago, NumLock21 said:

I know it does not look like it, but some company decided to do something different and came up with that type of design.

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

That is cool.... I guess if you are the sort of person who is in to that sort of thing.