Jump to content

Amp for Cars

em10242

ok. so I bought 2 speakers that are 1000 watts each. does that mean that my max is 1000 watts or 2000 watts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless the box/manual for them says RMS, then its max power. also are they 4 or 8ohm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1000 watts per channel provided those speakers can handle it. BTW you should be at 3 or 5 channel. 

Forgive me El Guapo. I know that I, Jefe, do not have your superior intellect and education...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I really don't think the speakers are putting out 1000w each. That's likely the "musical" rating. Check for the RMS rating, as that's the actual power amount.

CPU: Ryzen 9 5900 Cooler: EVGA CLC280 Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Pro AX RAM: Kingston Hyper X 32GB 3200mhz

Storage: WD 750 SE 500GB, WD 730 SE 1TB GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Streacom DA2

Monitor: LG 27GL83B Mouse: Razer Basilisk V2 Keyboard: G.Skill KM780 Cherry MX Red Speakers: Mackie CR5BT

 

MiniPC - Sold for $100 Profit

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i3 4160 Cooler: Integrated Motherboard: Integrated

RAM: G.Skill RipJaws 16GB DDR3 Storage: Transcend MSA370 128GB GPU: Intel 4400 Graphics

PSU: Integrated Case: Shuttle XPC Slim

Monitor: LG 29WK500 Mouse: G.Skill MX780 Keyboard: G.Skill KM780 Cherry MX Red

 

Budget Rig 1 - Sold For $750 Profit

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i5 7600k Cooler: CryOrig H7 Motherboard: MSI Z270 M5

RAM: Crucial LPX 16GB DDR4 Storage: Intel S3510 800GB GPU: Nvidia GTX 980

PSU: Corsair CX650M Case: EVGA DG73

Monitor: LG 29WK500 Mouse: G.Skill MX780 Keyboard: G.Skill KM780 Cherry MX Red

 

OG Gaming Rig - Gone

Spoiler

 

CPU: Intel i5 4690k Cooler: Corsair H100i V2 Motherboard: MSI Z97i AC ITX

RAM: Crucial Ballistix 16GB DDR3 Storage: Kingston Fury 240GB GPU: Asus Strix GTX 970

PSU: Thermaltake TR2 Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX

Monitor: Dell P2214H x2 Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: G.Skill KM780 Cherry MX Red

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, dizmo said:

I really don't think the speakers are putting out 1000w each. That's likely the "musical" rating. Check for the RMS rating, as that's the actual power amount.

thats the suggested continuous power it can handle. Also check out the amps themselves. If the OP sees an amp that says 1500 watts but has only a single 30 amp fuse, its fake. Also I personally have seen amps marketed as being mono-block amps, but they have  2 or more channels. thats also fake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, em10242 said:

ok. so I bought 2 speakers that are 1000 watts each. does that mean that my max is 1000 watts or 2000 watts?

Make and model of speakers please. I'm willing to be you $20 that they're 1000watts peak power, and not RMS, which is the actual power they'll output.

Same thing goes for buying amps - I know many makes and models of amps that claim to deliver 3000watts over all 5 channels for cheap. They're all fake or will explode if actually driven at 3000watts for longer than about 50ms, so please provide us more information about your speakers you bought.

 

If you desire, also include the year, make, and model (with trim options) of your car, and tell me what kind of audio upgrade you're looking to achieve. I'll get back to you with what amp, radio/stereo unit to buy, as well as good speaker options too. Include your budget as well.

Desktop: KiRaShi-Intel-2022 (i5-12600K, RTX2060) Mobile: OnePlus 5T | Koodo - 75GB Data + Data Rollover for $45/month
Laptop: Dell XPS 15 9560 (the real 15" MacBook Pro that Apple didn't make) Tablet: iPad Mini 5 | Lenovo IdeaPad Duet 10.1
Camera: Canon M6 Mark II | Canon Rebel T1i (500D) | Canon SX280 | Panasonic TS20D Music: Spotify Premium (CIRCA '08)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Speakers don't put out any power. But they'll consume it. :)

Amplifiers will have a power output, though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/29/2016 at 3:29 AM, JordanMihailov said:

whats the speakers ?

they are bbl cx1200

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/29/2016 at 3:43 AM, kirashi said:

Make and model of speakers please. I'm willing to be you $20 that they're 1000watts peak power, and not RMS, which is the actual power they'll output.

Same thing goes for buying amps - I know many makes and models of amps that claim to deliver 3000watts over all 5 channels for cheap. They're all fake or will explode if actually driven at 3000watts for longer than about 50ms, so please provide us more information about your speakers you bought.

 

If you desire, also include the year, make, and model (with trim options) of your car, and tell me what kind of audio upgrade you're looking to achieve. I'll get back to you with what amp, radio/stereo unit to buy, as well as good speaker options too. Include your budget as well.

they are JBL cx1200. I have Kicker CS 300 watts max. no amp and no cables yet. I might use the factory stereo (because I like factory looks and not shiny gloss black plastic or use a Raxiom OE-Style GPS Navigation w/ Bluetooth & Back-Up Camera. this is going on a 2007 mustang.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, em10242 said:

they are JBL cx1200. I have Kicker CS 300 watts max. no amp and no cables yet. I might use the factory stereo (because I like factory looks and not shiny gloss black plastic or use a Raxiom OE-Style GPS Navigation w/ Bluetooth & Back-Up Camera. this is going on a 2007 mustang.

Excellent! Based on the information you have provided, your subwoofer speakers are 250W RMS. They are most definitely NOT 1000w.

http://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/CX1200_.html#spcs_support

This means you'd be fine getting a single channel amp around 200w-300w, or a 5 channel amp that runs around 250w on the 5th channel.

 

When you say you have a Kicker CS 300's, all I get in search results is their CX300 amplifiers. Please let me know which exact speakers you have.

http://www.kicker.com/2016-cs-series

 

Now, I assume you've wired these speakers directly into your existing car stereo. This is fine, however, I don't know the details of wiring a subwoofer amp directly into existing wiring since I always replace the low end factory radios in most cars older than 2012 with something that has dedicated RCA outputs. These then would get directly wired into the speaker amplifiers as needed.

There definitely is a way to wire in a sub amp to factory stereos though; I would imagine you run additional speaker wire to the inputs on the subwoofer amp specifically labelled for this use, which means your subwoofer would be based off the volume levels for your front or rear speakers, depending on which wires you use.

Desktop: KiRaShi-Intel-2022 (i5-12600K, RTX2060) Mobile: OnePlus 5T | Koodo - 75GB Data + Data Rollover for $45/month
Laptop: Dell XPS 15 9560 (the real 15" MacBook Pro that Apple didn't make) Tablet: iPad Mini 5 | Lenovo IdeaPad Duet 10.1
Camera: Canon M6 Mark II | Canon Rebel T1i (500D) | Canon SX280 | Panasonic TS20D Music: Spotify Premium (CIRCA '08)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, kirashi said:

 

There definitely is a way to wire in a sub amp to factory stereos though; I would imagine you run additional speaker wire to the inputs on the subwoofer amp specifically labelled for this use, which means your subwoofer would be based off the volume levels for your front or rear speakers, depending on which wires you use.

i dont think ive seen a mono-d with this possible but ive seen a lot of 4+ channel amps that come with the wired to use the speaker inputs as the inputs for the amp, i have also seen adapters that do this but theyre not very good

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/31/2016 at 6:42 PM, kirashi said:

Excellent! Based on the information you have provided, your subwoofer speakers are 250W RMS. They are most definitely NOT 1000w.

http://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/CX1200_.html#spcs_support

This means you'd be fine getting a single channel amp around 200w-300w, or a 5 channel amp that runs around 250w on the 5th channel.

 

When you say you have a Kicker CS 300's, all I get in search results is their CX300 amplifiers. Please let me know which exact speakers you have.

http://www.kicker.com/2016-cs-series

 

Now, I assume you've wired these speakers directly into your existing car stereo. This is fine, however, I don't know the details of wiring a subwoofer amp directly into existing wiring since I always replace the low end factory radios in most cars older than 2012 with something that has dedicated RCA outputs. These then would get directly wired into the speaker amplifiers as needed.

There definitely is a way to wire in a sub amp to factory stereos though; I would imagine you run additional speaker wire to the inputs on the subwoofer amp specifically labelled for this use, which means your subwoofer would be based off the volume levels for your front or rear speakers, depending on which wires you use.

It's these guys that I have. 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-6-3-4-coaxial-car-speakers-with-polypropylene-cones-pair-black/7709236.p?skuId=7709236&productCategoryId=pcmcat360500050020

 

 

i have found a sub cable for my  shaker 500 radio for the amplifier 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, em10242 said:

It's these guys that I have. 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-6-3-4-coaxial-car-speakers-with-polypropylene-cones-pair-black/7709236.p?skuId=7709236&productCategoryId=pcmcat360500050020

 

 

i have found a sub cable for my  shaker 500 radio for the amplifier 

Excellent! More good information. So, it looks like you've got the upgraded stereo (Shaker 500) which is better than stock/base model, of course. A lot of people Mustang Forums state the Shaker 500 is good, but is difficult to splice in your own speakers without replacing the radio altogether.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010/104955-stereo-guys-shaker-500-factory-amplifiers-speakers-picture.html

http://mustangforums.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics/493422-shaker-500-door-subs-replaced-walk-through.html

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/audio-video/147813-stock-shaker-500-sub-amp-specs.html

 

This has to do with wiring and the wattage that the Shaker 500 outputs; if you're good with wiring it up, then technically you don't need to replace it unless you want more wattage than it can deliver. According to the post linked below, the Shaker 500 is 500watts PEAK power between all speakers. This means you're getting about 20w out of each front left and right channel, and the rear speakers get about half that. The door subs receive around 40w power each.

http://themustangsource.com/forums/f637/shaker-500-specifications-454798/#post5357903

 

As the guy in that post states, I too would highly recommend replacing the stock headunit with a much better stereo from Pioneer or Alpine, and using either a single 5-channel amplifier, or a 4-channel and a mono-block Class D amplifier to drive both door subwoofers. You 2007 Mustang is awesome for supporting door subs, since most cars only have 4 regular speakers in front doors and rear deck/doors, leaving you to place your sub(s) in the back in their own enclosure.

 

Since your subs are rate for 250W RMS, and the Kicker speakers you've already got are good for about 100W RMS, using the Shaker 500 headunit to drive them means the speakers are essentially only being given about 5-10% power at any given time. Nothing wrong with that little power if you're not about to turn them past 11 to blow your neighbors brains out, but at the same time, driving speakers below 40-60% means you've essentially bought them for nothing and could have just kept the factory speakers instead...

 

I understand from your original post that you DO NOT like glossy plastic on your centre console. That's fine; there are indeed stereo headunits out there that are matte finish and the mounting brackets usually aren't glossy themselves. Worst case you can actually do some light sanding of glossy plastic to reduce the glossy finish down to a satin/matte look.

 

   
AVH-X3800BHS thumbnail
In Stock
$259.99
x.gif
x.gif Extended Warranty Options (Show)
 
x.gif
Vehicle Specific Installation Accessories
For 2007 Ford Mustang Coupe Base Shaker 500/1000 System
Manage Accessories / Change Vehicle
 
x.gif
Accessory PictureAntenna Adapter: Metra 40-CR10
$4.99
x.gif FREE
x.gif
Accessory PictureWiring Harness: Scosche FDK11B
FREE

 

A double-din stereo, such as the one above, would look nice in an 2007 Mustang, and even when off it has more of a satin finish to it. Most single-din decks are all glossy because manufacturers apparently don't like to offer choice. An old coworker of mine has a double-din in his 2008 Shelby GT and it looks pretty decent.

 

If you need a hand with anything specific, such as what amp(s) to consider, or what headunits to look at, let me know.

Desktop: KiRaShi-Intel-2022 (i5-12600K, RTX2060) Mobile: OnePlus 5T | Koodo - 75GB Data + Data Rollover for $45/month
Laptop: Dell XPS 15 9560 (the real 15" MacBook Pro that Apple didn't make) Tablet: iPad Mini 5 | Lenovo IdeaPad Duet 10.1
Camera: Canon M6 Mark II | Canon Rebel T1i (500D) | Canon SX280 | Panasonic TS20D Music: Spotify Premium (CIRCA '08)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/31/2016 at 8:33 PM, jonnylaw13 said:

i dont think ive seen a mono-d with this possible but ive seen a lot of 4+ channel amps that come with the wired to use the speaker inputs as the inputs for the amp, i have also seen adapters that do this but theyre not very good

that all depends on whether or not the vehicle has a built in amplifier. if it does itll have to be bypassed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×