I definitely spent over 100 hours researching for this build, maybe "Paslake" is now completed! (Edit: All ordered!)

[DreamcastFan]

I've bought half of these components already and they are waiting for me at home, I'm in Japan right now but I won't be back for around 2-3 weeks, the hype is building...

 

Anyway here is the list, you might notice I got extremely lucky on the price of my GTX 1080 and my monitor.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  (Purchased For £280.00) 
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG A80 128.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For £62.99) 
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (Purchased For £177.00) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance White LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (Purchased For £92.99) 
Storage: Corsair Force Series 3 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£0.00) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £229.50) 
Storage: Toshiba P300 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For £69.99) 
Video Card: Palit GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GameRock Video Card  (Purchased For £509.99) 
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For £61.41) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For £83.47) 
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card  (£0.00) 
Case Fan: Aerocool DS 140mm White 93.4 CFM  140mm Fan  (Purchased For £14.25) 
Case Fan: Aerocool DS 120mm White 81.5 CFM  120mm Fan  (Purchased For £10.71) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 107.4 CFM  140mm Fan  (Purchased For £20.99) 
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM 107.4 CFM  140mm Fan  (Purchased For £20.99) 
Monitor: Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 165Hz Monitor  (Purchased For £256.00) 
Other: Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO (250 OHM) (£0.00)
Total: £1890.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-18 18:41 BST+0100

 

PC is for: 1440P gaming at 60 FPS minimum, pro Adobe Lightroom work (photo editing), Photoshop, light video editing, work/university, media consumption (PC will be attached to my TV near my desk too)

 

Colour scheme: White rear fans, top left/middle area white LEDs from fans & RAM, GPU and motherboard set to blue lighting, radiator fans unlit & black, one very small strip of blue LEDs on the rear right or front of the case. I'm going to remove that horrible plastic shell on the Maximus!

 

Still deciding if I will re-use my old Benq 27" 1080P monitor, might use it as a second screen if I have the desk space

 

Note: The stuff listed at 0.00 are things I am carrying over from my old PC.

 

Some reasoning for my choice:

• The Cryorig A80 is better than the Corsair H115i / H110i GTX and costs 30-50% less money
• The industrial Noctua fans are for the A80's radiator, I'm paying a little extra for the colour scheme but they are better than the consumer fans anyway, I bought the 12v PWM versions which can spin at lower speeds
• I'm still a little torn between the Define S and the NZXT S340, I'm slightly worried about the airflow of the S340 with its limited fan spaces but it's one of the best looking cases I have seen. I like it more than the Enthoo Evolv ATX, NZXT H440 and so on
• I'm trying not to spend a lot of money on a case, I'm probably moving back to Japan next year so I will have to sell my case at a loss or store it, so I chose to spend money on fans instead of a case as I can easily take the fans with me. It costs too much money to ship a PC case; more than what most cases cost to buy new
• The Palit GTX 1080 I was able to find for cheap, it's one of the best 1080s with a great cooler and it matches my colour scheme
• I don't need a 650W PSU but it gives me enough headroom to add a second 1080 later, even though you can actually do SLI 1080s on a 550W PSU (like the SeaSonic G550) but it's cutting it a little close in my eyes

 

What do you think!? I spent a lot of time researching everything sometimes having to go on foreign YouTube channels I couldn't understand but I think this is a well optimised setup!

[Syntaxvgm]

Quote

I don't need a 650W PSU but it gives me enough headroom to add a second 1080 later, even though you can actually do SLI 1080s on a 550W PSU (like the SeaSonic G550) but it's cutting it a little close in my eyes

 

no

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, Syntaxvgm said:

no

Yes.

 

http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/seasonic-g-series-550w-power-supply-review/7/

 

"can deliver 650W under load."

 

2x 1080 is around 360 watts for just the cards, so unless the rest of your PC is using that much you're fine.

[RollinLower]

3 minutes ago, DreamcastFan said:

Yes.

 

http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/seasonic-g-series-550w-power-supply-review/7/

 

"can deliver 650W under load."

 

2x 1080 is around 360 watts for just the cards, so unless the rest of your PC is using that much you're fine.

you do realise a stock clocked 6700K will draw about 130watts too right? together with the rest of your components, that might seriously not be enough, especially if you go OCing.

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, RollinLower said:

you do realise a stock clocked 6700K will draw about 130watts too right? together with the rest of your components, that might seriously not be enough, especially if you go OCing.

 

It surprised me too, the efficiency of modern hardware is amazing.

[Syntaxvgm]

Just now, DreamcastFan said:

Yes.

 

http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/seasonic-g-series-550w-power-supply-review/7/

 

"can deliver 650W under load."

 

2x 1080 is around 360 watts for just the cards, so unless the rest of your PC is using that much you're fine.

1. Never, ever load even a high quality psu past its rated wattage. You are not guaranteed that extra wattage, and it's only there as a safety feature. 

2. Capacitor aging- The extra load is there to provide reliable output of the rated wattage for some years to come

4. I got 598 watts using your setup with 2 1080s and the CPU @ 4.5GHz and 1.35v. No GPU overclock.

3. Overbuying a PSU is an annoying myth- most are most efficient at half their load anyway. Of course you don't need a crazy PSU, but buying one that gives you no rooms for expansion, especially one that's labelled as less than what you components use, is asine when buying 2 700 USD gpus, 1TB SSD, ect. I mean fuck is the extra 10-20$ really that important? 

4. Oh, and if you do buy an 'overkill psu', depending on the one you get and what you draw from it, you can enjoy fanless operation. 

 

Of course the one you are buying for this build is just fine, but that scenario with 2 gpus is stupid and dangerous. 

[Syntaxvgm]

4 minutes ago, DreamcastFan said:

 

It surprised me too, the efficiency of modern hardware is amazing.

Run the CPU under like p95 (which you shouldn't really do with modern ones) or aida64 or something, gpu under furmark, and get back to me 

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, Syntaxvgm said:

1. Never, ever load even a high quality psu past its rated wattage. You are not guaranteed that extra wattage, and it's only there as a safety feature. 

2. Capacitor aging- The extra load is there to provide reliable output of the rated wattage for some years to come

4. I got 598 watts using your setup with 2 1080s and the CPU @ 4.5GHz and 1.35v. No GPU overclock.

3. Overbuying a PSU is an annoying myth- most are most efficient at half their load anyway. Of course you don't need a crazy PSU, but buying one that gives you no rooms for expansion, especially one that's labelled as less than what you components use, is asine when buying 2 700 USD gpus, 1TB SSD, ect. I mean fuck is the extra 10-20$ really that important? 

4. Oh, and if you do buy an 'overkill psu', depending on the one you get and what you draw from it, you can enjoy fanless operation. 

 

Of course the one you are buying for this build is just fine, but that scenario with 2 gpus is stupid and dangerous. 

I'm not saying go and buy any 550W PSU for SLI but I did specifically bring up the SeaSonic because it's an anomaly. I have seen many SLI 1080 setups not exceeding 500W so it's not even past the rated voltage of the SeaSonic.

 

It's fine if you differ but I've had no problems or scares with the way I approach PSU buying, I can get fanless operation on 550W and 650W PSUs unless under load, I don't think that's any different if I bought an 850W, it's likely going to turn the fan on as soon as the GPU and CPU start doing heavy lifting.

[DreamcastFan]

3 minutes ago, Syntaxvgm said:

Run the CPU under like p95 (which you shouldn't really do with modern ones) or aida64 or something, gpu under furmark, and get back to me 

The SeaSonic G550 could handle it anyway so I don't see your point.

[Syntaxvgm]

Just now, DreamcastFan said:

I'm not saying go and buy any 550W PSU for SLI but I did specifically bring up the SeaSonic because it's an anomaly. I have seen many SLI 1080 setups not exceeding 500W so it's not even past the rated voltage of the SeaSonic.

 

It's fine if you differ but I've had no problems or scares with the way I approach PSU buying, I can get fanless operation on 550W and 650W PSUs unless under load, I don't think that's any different if I bought an 850W, it's likely going to turn the fan on as soon as the GPU and CPU start doing heavy lifting.

I have a 650 watt in my  workstation running a 970 and a 2600 non-k (just replaced with a 3700k that I haven't overclocked yet) that never turned its fan on. Ever. No dust in the psu either. I have a 1000w PSU in my gaming desktop with a 5820k and 1080 which also never uses the fan. 

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, Syntaxvgm said:

I have a 650 watt in my  workstation running a 970 and a 2600 non-k (just replaced with a 3700k that I haven't overclocked yet) that never turned its fan on. Ever. No dust in the psu either. I have a 1000w PSU in my gaming desktop with a 5820k and 1080 which also never uses the fan. 

That's cool, I'm curious to see how the EVGA G2 copes with Eco mode switched on.

[Syntaxvgm]

Just now, DreamcastFan said:

The SeaSonic G550 could handle it anyway so I don't see your point.

Lol 490 watts, not under max load, not overclocked, and likely nothing else in the case just a basic test bench, and you mean to tell me that you couldn't possible go over 550w? And no, never pass that, I don't care if it will output it, it's not RATED for it. Then you also loose your buffer for aging. 

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, Syntaxvgm said:

Lol 490 watts, not under max load, not overclocked, and likely nothing else in the case just a basic test bench, and you mean to tell me that you couldn't possible go over 550w? And no, never pass that, I don't care if it will output it, it's not RATED for it. Then you also loose your buffer for aging. 

Well ultimately unless you or I have the SeaSonic and run such a system we're not going to know how well it can cope or how well it copes past its rated power consumption.

[DreamcastFan]

Just now, matzeesch said:

I have a 750W PSU and i7 5820k OC and GTX 980 real power consumtion is 400W and my fan also never turned on.

 

Heaven is not a good representation to show the max power usage.

I couldn't find any good charts that showed total system usage unfortunately. Most of them just show the combined power used by the two 1080s (around 350-380w usually)

[Syntaxvgm]

27 minutes ago, DreamcastFan said:

Well ultimately unless you or I have the SeaSonic and run such a system we're not going to know how well it can cope or how well it copes past its rated power consumption.

Are you not getting it? The buffer is for keeping the PSU able to output the rating after capacitor aging, (though I drive that point home with experience from servers PSUs which are much more heat exposed, and it's not nearly the problem on general desktop psus), and to "idiot proof" it. Why edge it when you can get a good 700w psu for less than 50 USD? Do you have any idea how many PSUs I've seen fail catastrophically, some even catching on fire? I'm not even talking about crap Chinese psus or OEM ones right now, I'm talking from companies people trust blindly. Just me, personally, I've had an athena explode, A corsair (not sure of oem) PSU melt the 12v line on the 24 pin connector, a cooler master one literally catch on fire, and my favorite, a corsair branded seasonic (topical) get a brown power issue. I still buy from all of those brands, but my point is clearly you research power supplies, why get the absolute minimal you'd need for a system when they are not even cost prohibitive? Btw that seasonic is most efficient at 340w, though not by much, very consistently efficient psu. I always target where the psu is most efficient. 

This may be anal of me...but why would you EVER want to run a PSU on a non-budget PC that barely meets the load, even needed to exceed the sticker's rating? Why? 

That's like, it's 29 miles to your destination and back, your car gets 25MPG city, gas is 2 USD a gallon, therefore you buy 2.35 USD of gas. I mean.... you can....but WHY? What if you want to stop for a bite to eat on the way home but you want to go to that new Chinese place you've heard about that's a bit out of the way? 

point is, YOU CAN'T PLAN FOR THE FUTURE, WEAR A CONDOM AND BUY A BETTER PSU! 

 

[DreamcastFan]

24 minutes ago, Syntaxvgm said:

Are you not getting it? The buffer is for keeping the PSU able to output the rating after capacitor aging, (though I drive that point home with experience from servers PSUs which are much more heat exposed, and it's not nearly the problem on general desktop psus), and to "idiot proof" it. Why edge it when you can get a good 700w psu for less than 50 USD? Do you have any idea how many PSUs I've seen fail catastrophically, some even catching on fire? I'm not even talking about crap Chinese psus or OEM ones right now, I'm talking from companies people trust blindly. Just me, personally, I've had an athena explode, A corsair (not sure of oem) PSU melt the 12v line on the 24 pin connector, a cooler master one literally catch on fire, and my favorite, a corsair branded seasonic (topical) get a brown power issue. I still buy from all of those brands, but my point is clearly you research power supplies, why get the absolute minimal you'd need for a system when they are not even cost prohibitive? Btw that seasonic is most efficient at 340w, though not by much, very consistently efficient psu. I always target where the psu is most efficient. 

This may be anal of me...but why would you EVER want to run a PSU on a non-budget PC that barely meets the load, even needed to exceed the sticker's rating? Why? 

That's like, it's 29 miles to your destination and back, your car gets 25MPG city, gas is 2 USD a gallon, therefore you buy 2.35 USD of gas. I mean.... you can....but WHY? What if you want to stop for a bite to eat on the way home but you want to go to that new Chinese place you've heard about that's a bit out of the way? 

point is, YOU CAN'T PLAN FOR THE FUTURE, WEAR A CONDOM AND BUY A BETTER PSU! 

 

I don't know why someone would buy a budget PSU on a high end but plenty of people do, I would personally definitely buy a 650 minimum for SLI but I'd also buy one comfortably and use it for a while if it was the only area I could skimp a little (but in that case it'd still be wiser to save a little more).

 

From what I have seen that SeaSonic is quite a different beast to other PSUs at 550 though, so that's something.

[Vode]

The 650Watt PSU is just fine for the rig of OP. There is no reason to go for a 750Watt or above aside from wanting to run the PSU at it's max efficiency around 50%, which is only really useful if you want to build the most quiet PC possible (PSU fanless mode). But since there are radiators and pumps in his build there is no point, they are louder than the PSU anyways.

 

650 Watt like he selected is a way to go to not waste extra money on overbuild components.

[DreamcastFan]

5 hours ago, Vode said:

The 650Watt PSU is just fine for the rig of OP. There is no reason to go for a 750Watt or above aside from wanting to run the PSU at it's max efficiency around 50%, which is only really useful if you want to build the most quiet PC possible (PSU fanless mode). But since there are radiators and pumps in his build there is no point, they are louder than the PSU anyways.

 

650 Watt like he selected is a way to go to not waste extra money on overbuild components.

Yeah I think 650 is a sweet spot for Pascal/Skylake, enough to add a second 1080 and not too hard on the wallet!

 

I just bought everything so the slightly altered build is up now, the EVGA PSU I wanted sold out so I went for the Corsair with a 10 year warranty.

[Syntaxvgm]

11 hours ago, Vode said:

The 650Watt PSU is just fine for the rig of OP. There is no reason to go for a 750Watt or above aside from wanting to run the PSU at it's max efficiency around 50%, which is only really useful if you want to build the most quiet PC possible (PSU fanless mode). But since there are radiators and pumps in his build there is no point, they are louder than the PSU anyways.

 

650 Watt like he selected is a way to go to not waste extra money on overbuild components.

the argument was on the hypothetical 1080 SLI on a seasonic 550w. Both OP and I know that the 650w PSU is just fine.