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Air cooler for i7 5820k

rattacko123
By rattacko123
in Cooling
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Posted

I am curently using a H100i, but I think it is too noisy, and I cannot do any fan control unless I use the corsair link software. I want to upgrade (or downgrade?) to an Air cooler. I was thinking about a be quiet cooler or something, but what do you guys think?

I do not overclock my CPU, so I dont need a super powerful cooler or anything like that

hello!

is it me you're looking for?

ᴾC SᴾeCS ᴰoWᴺ ᴮEᴸoW

Spoiler

Desktop: X99-PC

CPU: i7 5820k

Mobo: X99 Deluxe

Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3

RAM: 32GB DDR4
GPU: GTX 1080

Storage: 1TB 850 Evo, 1TB HDD, bunch of external hard drives
PSU: EVGA G2 750w

Peripherals: Logitech G502, Ducky One 711

Audio: Xonar U7, O2 amplifier (RIP), HD6XX

Monitors: 4k 24" Dell monitor, 1080p 24" Asus monitor

 

Laptop:

-Overkill Dell XPS

Fully maxed out early 2017 Dell XPS 15, GTX 1050 4GB, 7700HQ, 1TB nvme SSD, 32GB RAM, 4k display. 97Whr battery :x 
Dell was having a $600 off sale for the fully specced out model, so I decided to get it :P

 

-Crapbook

Fully specced out early 2013 Macbook "pro" with gt 650m and constant 105c temperature on the CPU (GPU is 80-90C) when doing anything intensive...

A 2013 laptop with a regular sized battery still has better battery life than a 2017 laptop with a massive battery! I think this is a testament to apple's ability at making laptops, or maybe how little CPU technology has improved even 4+ years later (at least, until the recent introduction of 15W 4 core CPUs). Anyway, I'm never going to get a 35W CPU laptop again unless battery technology becomes ~5x better than as it is in 2018.

Apple knows how to make proper consumer-grade laptops (they don't know how to make pro laptops though). I guess this mostly software power efficiency related, but getting a mac makes perfect sense if you want a portable/powerful laptop that can do anything you want it to with great battery life.

 

 

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Posted

Just swap for quieter fans. 

 

It's VERY possible with quieter fans to barely hear an H100. The EK Varder F4 is a good pick. Just recently swapped to them to keep my H100 quiet.

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Posted
6 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

I am curently using a H100i, but I think it is too noisy, and I cannot do any fan control unless I use the corsair link software. I want to upgrade (or downgrade?) to an Air cooler. I was thinking about a be quiet cooler or something, but what do you guys think?

I do not overclock my CPU, so I dont need a super powerful cooler or anything like that

Well basically anny Normal air cooler will do or simply change the fans on the H100 for more quieter ones? noctua makes great ones, you can also Check The Cooler Master Hyper 212 or the insane beast the V8 GT

Main PC:| CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 @ 4.1, MOBO: Asus B350 PRIME , RAM: LPX Vengance 2400 16gb kit, GPU: 980Ti Poseidon Platinum 6gb
                PSU: SilverStone Strider Gold Evolution 1200w , CASE: HAF 932  HDDs:240gb EX900 HP NVME 6TB (2x3 Seagate Barracuda)
                COOLING: ThermalTake Contac Silent 12
Laptop:MSI GL62 7RD  CPU: Core i5 7300HQ, RAM: 16GB 2400mhz, :GPU GTX 1050 2GB: HDDs: 256gb adata NVME + 1TB HDD
 

love all brands, will go for whats cheaper for my needs

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Dark Rock Pro 3 or NH-D15

He who asks is stupid for 5 minutes. He who does not ask, remains stupid. -Chinese proverb. 

Those who know much are aware that they know little. - Slick roasting me

Spoiler

AXIOM

CPU- Intel i5-6500 GPU- EVGA 1060 6GB Motherboard- Gigabyte GA-H170-D3H RAM- 8GB HyperX DDR4-2133 PSU- EVGA GQ 650w HDD- OEM 750GB Seagate Case- NZXT S340 Mouse- Logitech Gaming g402 Keyboard-  Azio MGK1 Headset- HyperX Cloud Core

Offical first poster LTT V2.0

 

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Posted
7 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

I am curently using a H100i, but I think it is too noisy, and I cannot do any fan control unless I use the corsair link software. I want to upgrade (or downgrade?) to an Air cooler. I was thinking about a be quiet cooler or something, but what do you guys think?

I do not overclock my CPU, so I dont need a super powerful cooler or anything like that

Maybe try using a Hyper 212 Evo (check out some reviews for sound).

If you think that it's too noisy, I recommend Noctua, as the seem to make the quietest fans around 

Want to know which mobo to get?

Spoiler

Choose whatever you need. Any more, you're wasting your money. Any less, and you don't get the features you need.

 

Only you know what you need to do with your computer, so nobody's really qualified to answer this question except for you.

 

chEcK iNsidE sPoilEr fOr a tREat!

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Posted

Why not control your fans from your motherboard?

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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Posted
48 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

Why not control your fans from your motherboard?

This.

 

That said for non overclocked 5820k (which com'on man... at least get that up to 4.3/3.8 c/uc) a high end air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15s would work well.

LINK-> Kurald Galain:  The Night Eternal 

Top 5820k, 980ti SLI Build in the World*

CPU: i7-5820k // GPU: SLI MSI 980ti Gaming 6G // Cooling: Full Custom WC //  Mobo: ASUS X99 Sabertooth // Ram: 32GB Crucial Ballistic Sport // Boot SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB

Mass SSD: Crucial M500 960GB  // PSU: EVGA Supernova 850G2 // Case: Fractal Design Define S Windowed // OS: Windows 10 // Mouse: Razer Naga Chroma // Keyboard: Corsair k70 Cherry MX Reds

Headset: Senn RS185 // Monitor: ASUS PG348Q // Devices: Note 10+ - Surface Book 2 15"

LINK-> Ainulindale: Music of the Ainur 

Prosumer DYI FreeNAS

CPU: Xeon E3-1231v3  // Cooling: Noctua L9x65 //  Mobo: AsRock E3C224D2I // Ram: 16GB Kingston ECC DDR3-1333

HDDs: 4x HGST Deskstar NAS 3TB  // PSU: EVGA 650GQ // Case: Fractal Design Node 304 // OS: FreeNAS

 

 

 

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  • Author
1 hour ago, Katsunaka said:

Just swap for quieter fans. 

 

It's VERY possible with quieter fans to barely hear an H100.

I already replaced the fans with noctuas, I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the pump.

1 hour ago, WoodenMarker said:

Why not control your fans from your motherboard?

Yeah the idea came to me before, but I couldn't be bothered because I zip-tied the fan cables, I'm too lazy to move all the cables xD.

hello!

is it me you're looking for?

ᴾC SᴾeCS ᴰoWᴺ ᴮEᴸoW

Spoiler

Desktop: X99-PC

CPU: i7 5820k

Mobo: X99 Deluxe

Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3

RAM: 32GB DDR4
GPU: GTX 1080

Storage: 1TB 850 Evo, 1TB HDD, bunch of external hard drives
PSU: EVGA G2 750w

Peripherals: Logitech G502, Ducky One 711

Audio: Xonar U7, O2 amplifier (RIP), HD6XX

Monitors: 4k 24" Dell monitor, 1080p 24" Asus monitor

 

Laptop:

-Overkill Dell XPS

Fully maxed out early 2017 Dell XPS 15, GTX 1050 4GB, 7700HQ, 1TB nvme SSD, 32GB RAM, 4k display. 97Whr battery :x 
Dell was having a $600 off sale for the fully specced out model, so I decided to get it :P

 

-Crapbook

Fully specced out early 2013 Macbook "pro" with gt 650m and constant 105c temperature on the CPU (GPU is 80-90C) when doing anything intensive...

A 2013 laptop with a regular sized battery still has better battery life than a 2017 laptop with a massive battery! I think this is a testament to apple's ability at making laptops, or maybe how little CPU technology has improved even 4+ years later (at least, until the recent introduction of 15W 4 core CPUs). Anyway, I'm never going to get a 35W CPU laptop again unless battery technology becomes ~5x better than as it is in 2018.

Apple knows how to make proper consumer-grade laptops (they don't know how to make pro laptops though). I guess this mostly software power efficiency related, but getting a mac makes perfect sense if you want a portable/powerful laptop that can do anything you want it to with great battery life.

 

 

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35 minutes ago, Curufinwe_wins said:

(which com'on man... at least get that up to 4.3/3.8 c/uc)

Should I use the ASUS Overclocking software or use BIOS? What voltage is best for 5820k?

hello!

is it me you're looking for?

ᴾC SᴾeCS ᴰoWᴺ ᴮEᴸoW

Spoiler

Desktop: X99-PC

CPU: i7 5820k

Mobo: X99 Deluxe

Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3

RAM: 32GB DDR4
GPU: GTX 1080

Storage: 1TB 850 Evo, 1TB HDD, bunch of external hard drives
PSU: EVGA G2 750w

Peripherals: Logitech G502, Ducky One 711

Audio: Xonar U7, O2 amplifier (RIP), HD6XX

Monitors: 4k 24" Dell monitor, 1080p 24" Asus monitor

 

Laptop:

-Overkill Dell XPS

Fully maxed out early 2017 Dell XPS 15, GTX 1050 4GB, 7700HQ, 1TB nvme SSD, 32GB RAM, 4k display. 97Whr battery :x 
Dell was having a $600 off sale for the fully specced out model, so I decided to get it :P

 

-Crapbook

Fully specced out early 2013 Macbook "pro" with gt 650m and constant 105c temperature on the CPU (GPU is 80-90C) when doing anything intensive...

A 2013 laptop with a regular sized battery still has better battery life than a 2017 laptop with a massive battery! I think this is a testament to apple's ability at making laptops, or maybe how little CPU technology has improved even 4+ years later (at least, until the recent introduction of 15W 4 core CPUs). Anyway, I'm never going to get a 35W CPU laptop again unless battery technology becomes ~5x better than as it is in 2018.

Apple knows how to make proper consumer-grade laptops (they don't know how to make pro laptops though). I guess this mostly software power efficiency related, but getting a mac makes perfect sense if you want a portable/powerful laptop that can do anything you want it to with great battery life.

 

 

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16 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

I already replaced the fans with noctuas, I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the pump.

An easy way to verify whether it's the pump or not is to unplug it. 

12 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

Should I use the ASUS Overclocking software or use BIOS? What voltage is best for 5820k?

Do it through the bios. Most people feel fine below 1.3v but you can push further up to 1.4v without an issue if your temps are in check. 

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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40 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

Should I use the ASUS Overclocking software or use BIOS? What voltage is best for 5820k?

Always use bios.

 

4.5 @ 1.3V should be doable on 90+% of all cpu's, and 4.3@1.25 is quite literally a shoe-in. 

 

I don't recommend voltages over 1.4V for extended use.

LINK-> Kurald Galain:  The Night Eternal 

Top 5820k, 980ti SLI Build in the World*

CPU: i7-5820k // GPU: SLI MSI 980ti Gaming 6G // Cooling: Full Custom WC //  Mobo: ASUS X99 Sabertooth // Ram: 32GB Crucial Ballistic Sport // Boot SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB

Mass SSD: Crucial M500 960GB  // PSU: EVGA Supernova 850G2 // Case: Fractal Design Define S Windowed // OS: Windows 10 // Mouse: Razer Naga Chroma // Keyboard: Corsair k70 Cherry MX Reds

Headset: Senn RS185 // Monitor: ASUS PG348Q // Devices: Note 10+ - Surface Book 2 15"

LINK-> Ainulindale: Music of the Ainur 

Prosumer DYI FreeNAS

CPU: Xeon E3-1231v3  // Cooling: Noctua L9x65 //  Mobo: AsRock E3C224D2I // Ram: 16GB Kingston ECC DDR3-1333

HDDs: 4x HGST Deskstar NAS 3TB  // PSU: EVGA 650GQ // Case: Fractal Design Node 304 // OS: FreeNAS

 

 

 

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Posted

Cutting the zip ties and connecting the fans to the headers on your board is less lazy work than ordering a new cooler and completely replacing the old one.

 

My H80i was too noisy so I connected the fans to the headers on my board, much, much easier to live with. I will be replacing it with an air cooler soon, purely because the H80i is around 3 years old now and I don't wish to be caught with egg on my face when it dies.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
  • Author

Ok so I got my dark rock pro 3, and man this think is huge!

Good points:
1. It cools my CPU really well and it looks nice.

Now here are the negative points:

1. It takes up 2 of my ram slots, so I only have 6 slots where I can insert ram

2. It has a horrible mounting system, I had to completely remove my motherboard from my system just so I could fit some nuts under the cooler and tighten it. there is no way to tighten it with a screw driver, so you have to use this crappy flat idk whats it called that screws the nut in. The problem with it being flat is that I need to put it on an angle to even reach the screw, it would be much better if it was bent, so I just used my fingers to tighten it anyway without any tools.

 

I would not recommend, the mounting mechanism is not suitable for enthusiast sockets, maybe for consumer grade sockets it's fine, but you wouldn't need anything this big anyway if you were using consumer grade. I'm gonna try getting a coolermaster Hyper 212X cooler instead

hello!

is it me you're looking for?

ᴾC SᴾeCS ᴰoWᴺ ᴮEᴸoW

Spoiler

Desktop: X99-PC

CPU: i7 5820k

Mobo: X99 Deluxe

Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3

RAM: 32GB DDR4
GPU: GTX 1080

Storage: 1TB 850 Evo, 1TB HDD, bunch of external hard drives
PSU: EVGA G2 750w

Peripherals: Logitech G502, Ducky One 711

Audio: Xonar U7, O2 amplifier (RIP), HD6XX

Monitors: 4k 24" Dell monitor, 1080p 24" Asus monitor

 

Laptop:

-Overkill Dell XPS

Fully maxed out early 2017 Dell XPS 15, GTX 1050 4GB, 7700HQ, 1TB nvme SSD, 32GB RAM, 4k display. 97Whr battery :x 
Dell was having a $600 off sale for the fully specced out model, so I decided to get it :P

 

-Crapbook

Fully specced out early 2013 Macbook "pro" with gt 650m and constant 105c temperature on the CPU (GPU is 80-90C) when doing anything intensive...

A 2013 laptop with a regular sized battery still has better battery life than a 2017 laptop with a massive battery! I think this is a testament to apple's ability at making laptops, or maybe how little CPU technology has improved even 4+ years later (at least, until the recent introduction of 15W 4 core CPUs). Anyway, I'm never going to get a 35W CPU laptop again unless battery technology becomes ~5x better than as it is in 2018.

Apple knows how to make proper consumer-grade laptops (they don't know how to make pro laptops though). I guess this mostly software power efficiency related, but getting a mac makes perfect sense if you want a portable/powerful laptop that can do anything you want it to with great battery life.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, rattacko123 said:

Ok so I got my dark rock pro 3, and man this think is huge!

Good points:
1. It cools my CPU really well and it looks nice.

Now here are the negative points:

1. It takes up 2 of my ram slots, so I only have 6 slots where I can insert ram

2. It has a horrible mounting system, I had to completely remove my motherboard from my system just so I could fit some nuts under the cooler and tighten it. there is no way to tighten it with a screw driver, so you have to use this crappy flat idk whats it called that screws the nut in. The problem with it being flat is that I need to put it on an angle to even reach the screw, it would be much better if it was bent, so I just used my fingers to tighten it anyway without any tools.

 

I would not recommend, the mounting mechanism is not suitable for enthusiast sockets, maybe for consumer grade sockets it's fine, but you wouldn't need anything this big anyway if you were using consumer grade. I'm gonna try getting a coolermaster Hyper 212X cooler instead

If you haven't get the 212X, then consider Cryorig lineup, H7 is smaller than the 212X and actually performs better, or H5 Universal/Ultimate if you like it big, both is very easy to mount and affordable.

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