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Cool "newbie" projects

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Practice in general. Learn to use Lightroom. Go outside, use full manual. Stay outside for hours. Freeze your tits off. Come back. Find out that out of the 1000 pictures you took that only 5 are worth editing. Edit them. Find people. Show them your pictures. Those people said it's shit. Always. Repeat the process. Get better. Realize your pictures were shit before. But now are better. Ask people again. They are still shit. Repeat for 5 years. Spend thousands of dollars on lens, lights etc. You convince yourself you are good now. You have the equipment and practice with over 10000000000000000000000000*Infinite pictures (but obviously you had to delete 99% of them because you didn't upgrade your computer). This is enough to convince others that your Instagram is worth following because of the 50 good pictures you have. You get 10 new followers in 10 months. You realize you can do better. You go to a convention because nobody else wants you to take pictures of them and their child, you creep. You do it for free. You take the pictures and edit them and give them away. Congratulations. You did something with the thousands of hours of practice. This motivates you. You end up taking pictures of cats for fun. Your reputation is ruined because you posted them on Instagram. You lost 50 followers. Later you end up upgrading your computer, congratulations you have a Mac. You got 2K followers because you posted you have a Mac. You get an actual job with money, it's not much but it's enough for now. You spend that well earned 5 dollars on an Ice Cream. You become an Instagram food person. You are ruined, with no hope of turning it back around. You give up. You go outside. With your camera. And take a picture. You don't care if its good or not because its your picture and it is what you want to do. You are finally happy. OP keep taking those pictures. 

 

 

Edit: Or do this. 

 

Following are some of the key terms that can be used to describe the visual or graphic elements of a photograph.

 

 

 

 

1.     Light

 

Frontlit: Light comes from the camera position few shadows.

 

Sidelit: Light comes from the side, shadows cast to the side.

 

Backlit: Light comes towards camera, front of subject is shaded.

 

Direct light: Hard-edged, often dark, shadows.

 

Directional-diffused light: Distinct, but soft-edged shadows.

 

Diffused or revealing light: No, or almost no, shadows.

 

Silhouette: Subject very dark against light background.

 

Glowing light: Light comes or seems to come from the subject itself.

 

Take one for each category

 

 

 

2.     Tone & Contrast

 

High Key: Mostly light tones.

 

Low Key: Mostly dark tones.

 

Full Scale: Many tones of black, grey and white.

 

High Contrast: Very dark and very light areas, with few middle greys.

 

Low Contrast: Mostly middle greys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.     Texture

 

Emphasized: Usually due to light hitting the subject at an angle – textures stands out. Light skims across the subject’s surface, producing small shadows that cause the details of texture to become apparent.

 

Minimized: Usually due to light coming from the camera position, textures become less apparent / flattened. Light hits the subject straight on, producing very few shadows and the texture is not clearly revealed.

 

 

 

4.     Focus & Depth of Field

 

Sharp overall: The entire photograph is in focus. If a photograph is sharp overall, the viewer is more likely to see all parts of it as having equal value. Reports use to allow unbiased perspective. Photojournalism use sharp overall focus.

 

Soft Focus: The entire photo is gently out of focus. It a photograph has no one clear point of focus; it tends to give the photo an ethereal quality.

 

Selective Focus: One part is sharp, others are not.

 

Shallow Depth of Field: Short distance between nearest and farthest sharp areas.

 

Extensive Depth of Field: Considerable distance between nearest and farthest sharp areas.

 

 

 

5.     Viewpoint

 

Eye-level: The image is captured from a natural standing point of view. Camera angled directly at the subject.

 

Overhead, low level or unusual point of view: The image is captured by looking down or up at a subject. This flattens space and reduces a subject to its graphic elements. It can exaggerate its height or size.

 

Frame: The way the edges of the photograph meet the shapes in it.

 

 

 

 

 

6.     Space and Perspective

 

Shallow Space: Most objects seen close together in depth.

 

Deep Space: Objects seen at different distances in space.

 

Positive space or figure: The most important form in the composition. Often represented as a key figure against a background which contextually adds to the “story” of the individual.

 

Negative space or ground: That which surrounds the figure. Figure and ground are not always fixed and can be reversed. Consider a pencil drawing on a white piece of paper, the paper represents the ground.

 

Compressed perspective or telephoto effect: The scene seems to occupy an unusually shallow depth. This is achieved with a telephoto lens being fully extended, which will compress the distances between objects even if there is a considerable distance between them. Using a telephoto lens most effectively demonstrates this result.

 

Expanded perspective or wide-angle distortion: Parts of the scene stretched or positioned unusually far apart. Lines can bulge and curve. This is achieved with a wide angle lens fully opened and causes distortions in perspective and scale. Using a fish eye lens most effectively demonstrates this result.

 

 

 

7.     Line

 

Curved: curving angles like stage, cloud, rainbow

 

Straight: finding strong dominant use of straight, entire picture, train tracks, architecture

 

Horizontal: same ^ buildings

 

Vertical: same ^ fences

 

Diagonal: Strong compositional lines cutting from corner to corner

 

Implied: Such as created by the direction of someone’s gaze follows, baseball throw arc before thrown, the arc it creates

 

 

 

8.     Balance

 

This is bases on an internal, physical response.  Does the image feel in balance or does it tilt or feel heavier in one part more so than another?

 

Take 5 pictures which displays a composition you feel captures Balance effectively, at least 3 differently.

 

 

Day 1. Plan

Day 2. Shoot

Day 3. Shoot

Day 4. Shoot

Day 5. Submit

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey all! So my 21st birthday was the a week ago (Feb 24th) and I decided to treat myself to a nice DSLR (Nikon D3300. If my mom can treat herself to a new dog I can sure as hell get a camera but I digress.) As this being my first real camera I was curious what kind of projects would be a good way to get my feet wet? :)

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1 minute ago, AlbinoTexan said:

Feet fetish pics to really get your feet wet xD

If I had the feet for it! ;D Sadly hell no. lmao

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Go with some free walpapers of nature nearby. These are quite popular.

Athlon X2 for only 27.31$   Best part lists at different price points   Windows 1.01 running natively on an Eee PC

My rig:

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CPU: Intel Celeron (duh) N2840 2.16GHz Dual Core

RAM: 4GB DDR3 1333MHz

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RAM: 1GB DDR3-800

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GPU: Intel Graphics Media Accelerator (GMA) 3600

 

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4 minutes ago, Djole123 said:

Go with some free walpapers of nature nearby. These are quite popular.

 I was thinking nature. I live in FL and have quite a few nature preserves near by. :)

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Project number 1) Learn how to use the camera

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42 minutes ago, ShadowCaptain said:

Project number 1) Learn how to use the camera

And No.2) practice and experiment, and after that analyze.

Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

Nikon D4, Nikon D800E, Fuji X-E2, Canon G16, Gopro Hero 3+, iPhone 5s. Hasselblad 500C/M, Sony PXW-FS7

ICT Consultant, Photographer, Video producer, Scuba diver and underwater explorer, Nature & humanitarian documentary producer

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Just now, ALwin said:

And No.2) practice and experiment, and after that analyze.

 

hqdefault.jpg

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1 hour ago, Tasuma said:

I like those.

Honestly if its your first time using a camera, getting lost in a project is the last thing to be concerned with

 

just go out and shoot shoot shoot, shoot night, shoot day, shoot manual, dive into menus, try out video, learn the settings you cant even read, how the camera responds and behaves and you will be come a better photographer

While the true aesthetic of the photo is down the photographers eye and creativity, photography is not possible without gear, so the better you can learn it, the better you will be, and the easier time you will have

You will be inspired to create a project yourself,

honestly, photography is so varied, some kinds of photos i dont like some I do, its all about finding your "thing" your groove

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Practice in general. Learn to use Lightroom. Go outside, use full manual. Stay outside for hours. Freeze your tits off. Come back. Find out that out of the 1000 pictures you took that only 5 are worth editing. Edit them. Find people. Show them your pictures. Those people said it's shit. Always. Repeat the process. Get better. Realize your pictures were shit before. But now are better. Ask people again. They are still shit. Repeat for 5 years. Spend thousands of dollars on lens, lights etc. You convince yourself you are good now. You have the equipment and practice with over 10000000000000000000000000*Infinite pictures (but obviously you had to delete 99% of them because you didn't upgrade your computer). This is enough to convince others that your Instagram is worth following because of the 50 good pictures you have. You get 10 new followers in 10 months. You realize you can do better. You go to a convention because nobody else wants you to take pictures of them and their child, you creep. You do it for free. You take the pictures and edit them and give them away. Congratulations. You did something with the thousands of hours of practice. This motivates you. You end up taking pictures of cats for fun. Your reputation is ruined because you posted them on Instagram. You lost 50 followers. Later you end up upgrading your computer, congratulations you have a Mac. You got 2K followers because you posted you have a Mac. You get an actual job with money, it's not much but it's enough for now. You spend that well earned 5 dollars on an Ice Cream. You become an Instagram food person. You are ruined, with no hope of turning it back around. You give up. You go outside. With your camera. And take a picture. You don't care if its good or not because its your picture and it is what you want to do. You are finally happy. OP keep taking those pictures. 

 

 

Edit: Or do this. 

 

Following are some of the key terms that can be used to describe the visual or graphic elements of a photograph.

 

 

 

 

1.     Light

 

Frontlit: Light comes from the camera position few shadows.

 

Sidelit: Light comes from the side, shadows cast to the side.

 

Backlit: Light comes towards camera, front of subject is shaded.

 

Direct light: Hard-edged, often dark, shadows.

 

Directional-diffused light: Distinct, but soft-edged shadows.

 

Diffused or revealing light: No, or almost no, shadows.

 

Silhouette: Subject very dark against light background.

 

Glowing light: Light comes or seems to come from the subject itself.

 

Take one for each category

 

 

 

2.     Tone & Contrast

 

High Key: Mostly light tones.

 

Low Key: Mostly dark tones.

 

Full Scale: Many tones of black, grey and white.

 

High Contrast: Very dark and very light areas, with few middle greys.

 

Low Contrast: Mostly middle greys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.     Texture

 

Emphasized: Usually due to light hitting the subject at an angle – textures stands out. Light skims across the subject’s surface, producing small shadows that cause the details of texture to become apparent.

 

Minimized: Usually due to light coming from the camera position, textures become less apparent / flattened. Light hits the subject straight on, producing very few shadows and the texture is not clearly revealed.

 

 

 

4.     Focus & Depth of Field

 

Sharp overall: The entire photograph is in focus. If a photograph is sharp overall, the viewer is more likely to see all parts of it as having equal value. Reports use to allow unbiased perspective. Photojournalism use sharp overall focus.

 

Soft Focus: The entire photo is gently out of focus. It a photograph has no one clear point of focus; it tends to give the photo an ethereal quality.

 

Selective Focus: One part is sharp, others are not.

 

Shallow Depth of Field: Short distance between nearest and farthest sharp areas.

 

Extensive Depth of Field: Considerable distance between nearest and farthest sharp areas.

 

 

 

5.     Viewpoint

 

Eye-level: The image is captured from a natural standing point of view. Camera angled directly at the subject.

 

Overhead, low level or unusual point of view: The image is captured by looking down or up at a subject. This flattens space and reduces a subject to its graphic elements. It can exaggerate its height or size.

 

Frame: The way the edges of the photograph meet the shapes in it.

 

 

 

 

 

6.     Space and Perspective

 

Shallow Space: Most objects seen close together in depth.

 

Deep Space: Objects seen at different distances in space.

 

Positive space or figure: The most important form in the composition. Often represented as a key figure against a background which contextually adds to the “story” of the individual.

 

Negative space or ground: That which surrounds the figure. Figure and ground are not always fixed and can be reversed. Consider a pencil drawing on a white piece of paper, the paper represents the ground.

 

Compressed perspective or telephoto effect: The scene seems to occupy an unusually shallow depth. This is achieved with a telephoto lens being fully extended, which will compress the distances between objects even if there is a considerable distance between them. Using a telephoto lens most effectively demonstrates this result.

 

Expanded perspective or wide-angle distortion: Parts of the scene stretched or positioned unusually far apart. Lines can bulge and curve. This is achieved with a wide angle lens fully opened and causes distortions in perspective and scale. Using a fish eye lens most effectively demonstrates this result.

 

 

 

7.     Line

 

Curved: curving angles like stage, cloud, rainbow

 

Straight: finding strong dominant use of straight, entire picture, train tracks, architecture

 

Horizontal: same ^ buildings

 

Vertical: same ^ fences

 

Diagonal: Strong compositional lines cutting from corner to corner

 

Implied: Such as created by the direction of someone’s gaze follows, baseball throw arc before thrown, the arc it creates

 

 

 

8.     Balance

 

This is bases on an internal, physical response.  Does the image feel in balance or does it tilt or feel heavier in one part more so than another?

 

Take 5 pictures which displays a composition you feel captures Balance effectively, at least 3 differently.

 

 

Day 1. Plan

Day 2. Shoot

Day 3. Shoot

Day 4. Shoot

Day 5. Submit

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by DaiGurenMK42

Creator Of That Awkward Silence

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On 3/5/2016 at 4:56 PM, DaiGurenMK42 said:

-Snip-

Thanks for all that information! Everyday but today because I needed to sleep some, I've taken hundreds of photos, all manual mode, and I have literally 3 I like a lot. :P About 20 or so that aren't horrible and 600+ that are pieces of shit. Next weekend I have off so I plan on going out to a local nature preserve and spending the day taking shots there. :) Gonna work with lighroom this week once I am back home at my main rig. My little atom laptop can't do crap. lmao

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3 minutes ago, Tasuma said:

Thanks for all that information! Everyday but today because I needed to sleep some, I've taken hundreds of photos, all manual mode, and I have literally 3 I like a lot. :P About 20 or so that aren't horrible and 600+ that are pieces of shit. Next weekend I have off so I plan on going out to a local nature preserve and spending the day taking shots there. :) Gonna work with lighroom this week once I am back home at my main rig. My little atom laptop can't do crap. lmao

Why are you taking photos in all manual mode?  Use aperture or shutter priority.  It's utter BS that you need to shoot in full manual mode to learn to be a better photographer.  Often aperture or shutter priority are more than enough.  The main thing you need manual control over is ISO, avoid using auto ISO.  Manual mode is useful for situations such as:

  • using strong ND filters to get long exposures in bright light
  • astrophotography

Learn to use the various compensation settings, metering modes, focus modes.  Understand what happens to an image when changing a setting (shutter speed, aperture, focal length, ISO, etc.)

Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

Nikon D4, Nikon D800E, Fuji X-E2, Canon G16, Gopro Hero 3+, iPhone 5s. Hasselblad 500C/M, Sony PXW-FS7

ICT Consultant, Photographer, Video producer, Scuba diver and underwater explorer, Nature & humanitarian documentary producer

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