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Need opinions on my first Gaming PC Build ($1300 Skylake)

So this may be long, so prep yourself. I am looking to build my first gaming PC build here soon and want get some opinions to maybe change out parts for something better suited or correct an error in my decisions. This is what i have whittled it down to, so far, (Skylake Build) thanks to LinusTechTips, JayzTwoCent, Paul's Hardware, and many others. I'm trying to keep this build under a $1500 limit but if you can give me good reason to flex that budget high or even lower, then that might just happen. Also im not a "Ford Only, Fuck Chevy" kind of person, and no one company makes a perfect product, so again, if you find a different company's product would fit my needs better and have a good reason for it i will be more than happy to change my list. That being said, Intel and Asus products have yet to let me down and have always performed extremely well for me. I own a LG 24GM77 144hz 1080p monitor (fucking awesome monitor so far btw) so obviously my gaming will be 1080 with hopefully super high FPS.

 

The i5 6600k was chosen for the price to performance, plus it seems to show great OC potential from reading other forums. I also went with the 1151 socket as more of a future proof / up-gradable since it is the newest socket from Intel, and the reviewers have been saying that it seems to making a very good foundation for things to come in the future. Once I become a little more familiar with preforming OC-ing, I plan to OC the CPU to draw out the life before having to do a new build / upgrade.

 

The NZXT X61 cooler was chosen out of many reviews, of tons of different coolers due to the fact that it seems to be able to cool very well, and be decently quite while doing it. Originally I had picked the corsair H100gtx, I believe, but a lot of people said it gets super loud when the computer goes to work and even though it seems to be decently popular, it seems like reviewers and other builders stray away from it.

 

MoBo was recommended by two co workers who both run them and haven't one bad thing to say about it. It also seems to have all the features I was looking for and it is overclock capable. I guess it will even run DDR4 at a higher rate than the top clock speed on the specs. Plus I like the way it looks…cool, yet not crazy flashy.

 

The RAM was picked right out of the top rated DDR4 rams that were on Newegg. Plus it matches the top mobo spec clock speed.

 

I have one of these SSD's in my laptop right now and I'm super happy with the performance. I don’t keep a shit ton of stuff on my PC anyways, I just transfer to my external.

 

Now the Graphics Card is more where I'm stuck. I'm pretty sure that the CPU is more than capable of handling an even bigger card (980 or 980ti). Although I could OC this card and get close or equal performance as a 980. Definitely want the opinions on this one. Do you think this is a good match?

 

The NZXT case is just cool for a simple and clean look in my opinion. A lot of good reviews and very nice price tag. If this case didn’t exist id probably be going for the Corsair C70 (Black)

 

Finally the power supply is were I almost fucked it all up. The Corsair I had previously picked was not SLI compatible. I intend to go SLI once the G Card starts to reach its limits in the future. Anywho, went with this one cause it puts out a decent amount of wattage, in case I end up doing SLI, and plus it had great user reviews.

 

WELL, there is all my reasons. I can't wait to hear what everyone here thinks. I hope I've done my due diligence when I comes to the research and the build so far. Anything I have said so far is all based off the research I have done. If I'm completely wrong as fuck on anything, feel free to correct me (leave a link to an article too please, love learning new shit) Lastly I was gonna throw out a few general questions. Thanks again in advance for any input.

 

One massively powerful card or SLI?

 

Plan on changing the stock case fans later, what are your favorites?

 

What are your feelings on OC-ing CPU's, G Card's, and even Memory?

Co-worker says its stupid and shortens the life span. What are you feelings on that?

Peeps like JayzTwoCents says if your not OC-ing, then your not getting what you paid for and you losing out on performance…that’s essentially what he says. What are your feelings on that?

(My Opinion)Figured this rig would last 3-4 years before upgrade so why not OC during that time.

 

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The build you have is great but change the 970 for a 390 and you can go with a smaller PSU if you don't plan to xfire/sli in the future and you can get a cheaper board if you want.

USEFUL LINKS:

PSU Tier List F@H stats

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CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($123.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card  ($319.98 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Micro Center) 
Total: $1212.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 18:23 EST-0500
 
changed motherboard - overpriced and not needed.
gpu - performs better than a 970 at the same price.
changed ram - 16gb isnt needed for gaming. 8gb is enough.
added - WD Caviar Blue 1TB HDD

"Sulit" (adj.) something that is worth it

i7 8700K 4.8Ghz delidded / Corsair H100i V2 / Asus Strix Z370-F / G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200 / EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 / ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q

Samsung 850 EVO 500GB & 250GB - Crucial MX300 M.2 525GB / Fractal Design Define S / Corsair K70 MX Reds / Logitech G502 / Beyerdynamic DT770 250Ohm

SMSL SD793II AMP/DAC - Schiit Magni 3 / PCPP

Old Rig

i5 2500k 4.5Ghz | Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3P | Zotac GTX 980 AMP! Extreme | Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB 1866MHz

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$1255:

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($283.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.4 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($28.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($147.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390X 8GB Tri-X OC Video Card  ($413.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case  ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1244.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 18:27 EST-0500

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So this may be long, so prep yourself. I am looking to build my first gaming PC build here soon and want get some opinions to maybe change out parts for something better

There ya go, I wouldn't exactly say skylake is worth it with haswell xeons being so cheap

 

it includes a 1440p 144hz TN free-sync display, you also have the option of a 27" 4k IPS free-sync display at around the same price

 

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/kvbYvK

Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/kvbYvK/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Motherboard: Asus H87M-E Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($34.97 @ OutletPC)

Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($127.99 @ NCIX US)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($49.98 @ OutletPC)

Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card  ($289.99 @ Newegg)

Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case  ($28.99 @ NCIX US)

Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.89 @ OutletPC)

Monitor: Acer XG270HU 144Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($453.99 @ Mac Mall)

Total: $1372.78

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 18:58 EST-0500

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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So this may be long, so prep yourself. I am looking to build my first gaming PC build here soon and want get some opinions to maybe change out parts for something better suited or correct an error in my decisions. This is what i have whittled it down to, so far, (Skylake Build) thanks to LinusTechTips, JayzTwoCent, Paul's Hardware, and many

...

Finally the power supply is were I almost fucked it all up. The Corsair I had previously picked was not SLI compatible. I intend to go SLI once the G Card starts to reach its limits in the future. Anywho, went with this one cause it puts out a decent amount of wattage, in case I end up doing SLI, and plus it had great user reviews.

...

One massively powerful card or SLI?

 

Plan on changing the stock case fans later, what are your favorites?

 

What are your feelings on OC-ing CPU's, G Card's, and even Memory?

Co-worker says its stupid and shortens the life span. What are you feelings on that?

Peeps like JayzTwoCents says if your not OC-ing, then your not getting what you paid for and you losing out on performance…that’s essentially what he says. What are your feelings on that?

(My Opinion)Figured this rig would last 3-4 years before upgrade so why not OC during that time.

 

 

Go with the most powerful gpu your budget will allow. SLI/CF is an option down the road, but don't plan on it.

 

If you go with a GTX 970, the psu will comfortably accommodate a second gpu.

 

The build is very good. You are spending more than strictly necessary, but in the right places.

 

I would not change the stock fans.

 

OC-ing is a hobby. It cost money to do and is not strictly necessary to achieve a well performing system. This is especially so on Intel where one has to buy a top of class cpu in order to oc. For example, the OP build could be made more powerful by eliminating overclocking and going with an i7-6700, replacing the X61 cooler with an NH-U12S or even the stock Intel cooler.

 

If one is willing to forgo overclocking and make a few other adjustments, it is possible to get a better gpu and still be under budget.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($229.99 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($28.99 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($162.98 @ Newegg)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($84.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($77.99 @ NCIX US)

Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card  ($469.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Micro Center)

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1189.91

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 23:56 EST-0500

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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Regarding the vga part : you can go with one massive GPU or SLI/X Fire, or 2 massive GPUs in SLI/X Fire. I'm a RADEON fan (although I always hated their power consumption and heat!)  It basically depends on your budget. If you can afford more than one beast-of-a-VGA then go for SLI/X Fire. Keep in mind that Dual GPU cards tend to perform better than 2 single GPU cards of the same grade (not a huge difference though), due to the fact that the information is transferred internally and then the only hop is to the CPU. Where in separate cards, you have information hops between the cards via PCI-e bus and then the final hop to the CPU. Now a good buy is the Fury R9 Nano. If this is too expensive then you can go with the R9 390X or R9 390 (if we are talking for a RADEON card) if you look towards the green camp (nVidia) then I wouldn't settle for anything less than a GTX970.

 

For the case fans I would recommend Noctua fans since they are actually noiseless and tend to have a high durability over time. Of course they are more expensive than other aftermarket fans but their performance makes up to it and even more !

 

The overclocking parts, when this is actually a bit of a gamble here. It depends.....on many factors....like your PC-building experience, If you have ever O/Ced a system and how much. I've started overclocking CPUs back in the day of Intel Pentium using bigger aluminum after market coolers for a 25% performance increase (I even overclocked my Diamond Monster 3D II card with 3Dfx Voodoo 2 chip-set from 50MHz to 90Mhz using self adhesive aluminum heat-sinks because the memory it has on it was clocked on 100MHz so I was feeling that that I paid to get half the performance !...it still works by the way). I ended up overclocking a CPU using peltier elements for active cooling up to -25 degrees Celsius (on the element) and 0 degrees Celsius on the CPU that was clocked from 500MHz to 650-700MHz stable. In general, electromigration is inevitable. It just depends how quickly it will happen. If you perform heavy O/C then the electronic components will have shorter life span that the one anticipated (life span is not a fix variable in the equation here. You might end up having a cpu that works for 80 years or for 1 month! The same applies to GPUs).

 

If you need anything else or a clarification, please let us know.

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Regarding the vga part : you can go with one massive GPU or SLI/X Fire, or 2 massive GPUs in SLI/X Fire. I'm a RADEON fan (although I always hated their power consumption and heat!)  It basically depends on your budget. If you can afford more than one beast-of-a-VGA then go for SLI/X Fire. Keep in mind that Dual GPU cards tend to perform better than 2 single GPU cards of the same grade (not a huge difference though), due to the fact that the information is transferred internally and then the only hop is to the CPU. Where in separate cards, you have information hops between the cards via PCI-e bus and then the final hop to the CPU. Now a good buy is the Fury R9 Nano. If this is too expensive then you can go with the R9 390X or R9 390 (if we are talking for a RADEON card) if you look towards the green camp (nVidia) then I wouldn't settle for anything less than a GTX970.

 So the other topic I was looking at earlier was a 970 vs 390, and people seem to lean toward the 390 because of its higher vram which seems to be what future games will be using more and more. That is great, and if that really is the better of those two options then I can leave behind team green if it means that the PC in general will end up lasting longer. I'm going to hold off on SLI/X-fire for now because I believe that both of these cards should easily be able to run games at high FPS (80 and above) on my monitor. Although as the games advance and when that one cards starts struggle to maintain 60FPS I figured I'd throw in another card (which should be decently cheaper by then) to back it up and bring the FPS back up. Remember I'm only at 1080 with this monitor but I'm capable of 144hrz. If I go up a level on the G Card it either going to be a 980 or the equivalent AMD card (sry I am on the team green side at the moment so I've only been following there cards)

 

This will be my second actual build, but I'm decently tech savvy and pretty good at figuring thing's out. That said I don't want plan to jump into OC right away, but would like the ability to OC in the future so that when that second G Card is added, I can then pump up the CPU a bit more to handle those new games. I'm Figuring that this build should last around 2-3 if not 4 years, and hopefully I'm not just being optimistic about that.

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Go with the most powerful gpu your budget will allow. SLI/CF is an option down the road, but don't plan on it.

 

If you go with a GTX 970, the psu will comfortably accommodate a second gpu.

 

The build is very good. You are spending more than strictly necessary, but in the right places.

 

I would not change the stock fans.

 

OC-ing is a hobby. It cost money to do and is not strictly necessary to achieve a well performing system. This is especially so on Intel where one has to buy a top of class cpu in order to oc. For example, the OP build could be made more powerful by eliminating overclocking and going with an i7-6700, replacing the X61 cooler with an NH-U12S or even the stock Intel cooler.

 

If one is willing to forgo overclocking and make a few other adjustments, it is possible to get a better gpu and still be under budget.

So I would like to be able to OC because as a fellow nerd I could see it being fun in its own right. I guess what I'm really after with this build and not OC-ing it right off the bat, is a good solid foundation for future OC-ing in the picture as well as an extra GPU down the road. But when the CPU and GPU's are nearing there limits / upgrade point, I'd like to be able the use the MoBo, case, PSU, again, and just up the Ram if needed.

 

Is OC-ing really worth the money and work?

Why do you advise going toward a CPU mounted cooler and not a closed loop rad system?

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If you are going to use SLI / X-Fire then the best thing is to go for an X99 platform, due to more PCI lanes on the CPU. 5930K has 40 lanes thus making SLI / X-Fire more efficient with no bottlenecks up to 2 cards (16 lanes on each card) 5820K has 28 lanes and skylake 6700 has 20 i think. This also makes sense for more performance when you overclock.

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So I would like to be able to OC because as a fellow nerd I could see it being fun in its own right. I guess what I'm really after with this build and not OC-ing it right off the bat, is a good solid foundation for future OC-ing in the picture as well as an extra GPU down the road. But when the CPU and GPU's are nearing there limits / upgrade point, I'd like to be able the use the MoBo, case, PSU, again, and just up the Ram if needed.

 

Is OC-ing really worth the money and work?

Why do you advise going toward a CPU mounted cooler and not a closed loop rad system?

 

Nothing wrong with holding off on the oc. The OP should allow for a good oc, presuming the cpu chip can handle it.

 

The R9 390 does better than the GTX 970 at higher resolutions, and even at 1024 in some titles. But if you are going to go with AMD and want to allow for Crossfire then a larger psu would be a good idea. Although my general advice is that unless one has definite plans to add a second gpu within 12-14 months, don't bother. GPU tech is advancing rapidly and beyond that window, one usually finds it more cost effective to buy newer tech, replacing the exiting gpu.

 

Only you can decide if OC-ing is worth it. One can usually get a 20% improvement in cpu performance, sometimes more. But in a gaming system the added cpu performance usually translates into only a few fps improvement, if any. Most good motherboards include software/firmware that makes overclocking a reasonably simple process.

 

In non-overclocked systems a "cpu mounted" cooler is less expensive and usually quieter. Close loop cpu coolers have more failure points and a limited life span. A good one, like the Kraken X61, will do a better job cooling which should allow for a better overclock.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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Nothing wrong with holding off on the oc. The OP should allow for a good oc, presuming the cpu chip can handle it.

 

The R9 390 does better than the GTX 970 at higher resolutions, and even at 1024 in some titles. But if you are going to go with AMD and want to allow for Crossfire then a larger psu would be a good idea. Although my general advice is that unless one has definite plans to add a second gpu within 12-14 months, don't bother. GPU tech is advancing rapidly and beyond that window, one usually finds it more cost effective to buy newer tech, replacing the exiting gpu.

 

Only you can decide if OC-ing is worth it. One can usually get a 20% improvement in cpu performance, sometimes more. But in a gaming system the added cpu performance usually translates into only a few fps improvement, if any. Most good motherboards include software/firmware that makes overclocking a reasonably simple process.

 

In non-overclocked systems a "cpu mounted" cooler is less expensive and usually quieter. Close loop cpu coolers have more failure points and a limited life span. A good one, like the Kraken X61, will do a better job cooling which should allow for a better overclock.

 

Do you feel a PSU around more like 850 wattage area is better or is that still too low?

 

I do agree with you on CPU mounted coolers in a non OC system would be more ideal than a closed loop. Honestly "if" i had no interest in OC-ing my PC and went with either the i5 or i7 non OC version i would probably go with the CM hyper 212 EVO.

 

When it comes to OC-ing a CPU do you advise going with a closed loop system like the X61 every time, or would a 212 evo work?

Do you find in your personal PC that overclocking is worth the risk?

Are you using your PC for mainly gaming or what other things are you doing that OC might be benefiting you more?

Or is OC-ing just a straight hobby?

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Do you feel a PSU around more like 850 wattage area is better or is that still too low?

 

I do agree with you on CPU mounted coolers in a non OC system would be more ideal than a closed loop. Honestly "if" i had no interest in OC-ing my PC and went with either the i5 or i7 non OC version i would probably go with the CM hyper 212 EVO.

 

When it comes to OC-ing a CPU do you advise going with a closed loop system like the X61 every time, or would a 212 evo work?

Do you find in your personal PC that overclocking is worth the risk?

Are you using your PC for mainly gaming or what other things are you doing that OC might be benefiting you more?

Or is OC-ing just a straight hobby?

 

For 980 Ti and 390X, 850W is enough for two gpu.

 

With respect to cpu coolers and overclocking it really is a matter of degree. A Hyper 212 Evo will allow for a decent oc on most chips but something like an X61 may allow for something a little better. For the same oc, the X61 will let the chip run cooler which generally means a longer lifetime.

 

I don't do a lot of gaming but I do oc. I like the added performance and for some of my work it contributes to higher productivity. The productivity improvement comes into play compiling and linking software. We also oc a video editing workstation.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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If you are going to use SLI / X-Fire then the best thing is to go for an X99 platform, due to more PCI lanes on the CPU. 5930K has 40 lanes thus making SLI / X-Fire more efficient with no bottlenecks up to 2 cards (16 lanes on each card) 5820K has 28 lanes and skylake 6700 has 20 i think. This also makes sense for more performance when you overclock.

The extra lanes are really only going to matter if you use like 3+ GPUs or are going to use PCI-e SSDs with the GPUs

 

Neither of which matters for 99% of people.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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Go with the most powerful gpu your budget will allow. SLI/CF is an option down the road, but don't plan on it.

 

If you go with a GTX 970, the psu will comfortably accommodate a second gpu.

 

The build is very good. You are spending more than strictly necessary, but in the right places.

 

I would not change the stock fans.

 

OC-ing is a hobby. It cost money to do and is not strictly necessary to achieve a well performing system. This is especially so on Intel where one has to buy a top of class cpu in order to oc. For example, the OP build could be made more powerful by eliminating overclocking and going with an i7-6700, replacing the X61 cooler with an NH-U12S or even the stock Intel cooler.

 

If one is willing to forgo overclocking and make a few other adjustments, it is possible to get a better gpu and still be under budget.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($229.99 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($28.99 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($162.98 @ Newegg)

Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($84.99 @ Amazon)

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($77.99 @ NCIX US)

Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card  ($469.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($59.99 @ Micro Center)

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1189.91

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 23:56 EST-0500

 

 

So I picked that MoBo because of coworkers recommendations as well as it has built in WiFi and seems to be able to do everything i want it to. I see you used a different board in your build. When it comes to internet do you think I should run a board with built in WiFi or just run a pci WiFi card? I know direct link is the best but until I buy my own house the build will most likely run off WiFi for the moment. The build I did for my Pops had a pci WiFi with dual channel and it works like a charm.

 

Pick the what you think is the best MoBo, nevermind the cost.... just for shits and gigs.

 

Also did a little adjusting, that PSU from the original was actually meant to be in the 850 range the whole time (in case of future SLI/x-fire). Made another slight change... Think this is a better route??? Seem a little more... "Future Proof" for lack of a better term.

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@The_KIASER,

 

If you plan to use WiFi, then definitely go with a motherboard that includes it. Not sure which motherboard you are talking about in post #15, Sabertooth Z170 while an excellent motherboard does not have built-in WiFi. If price is not a concern the Asus Z170-Premium or Z170-Deluxe could be considered.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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@The_KIASER,

 

If you plan to use WiFi, then definitely go with a motherboard that includes it. Not sure which motherboard you are talking about in post #15, Sabertooth Z170 while an excellent motherboard does not have built-in WiFi. If price is not a concern the Asus Z170-Premium or Z170-Deluxe could be considered.

 

Well Shit... Thanks, I totally thought that board had built in WiFi... That would of pissed me off had I found out that too late... and this is why I started this topic

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Well Shit... Thanks, I totally thought that board had built in WiFi... That would of pissed me off had I found out that too late... and this is why I started this topic

 

You can always go with a USB/PCI-E wifi adapter if you prefer the Asus Sabertooth.

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You can always go with a USB/PCI-E wifi adapter if you prefer the Asus Sabertooth.

 

True, which i have done before on another build. Just figured that if I'm going to spend the extra money for one of those I might as well put it towards a board that has it built in.

 

The MoBo that I'm now thinking about (Newegg)

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True, which i have done before on another build. Just figured that if I'm going to spend the extra money for one of those I might as well put it towards a board that has it built in.

 

The MoBo that I'm now thinking about (Newegg)

 

Nice motherboard with some bling :) . Asus Hero is a decent line of gaming motherboards.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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Well, the parts are ordered and everything should be here in about two weeks, as soon as I get it built I'll for sure post some pics. I appreciate all the advice and help I've got so far and I'm super stoked for this PC.

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AWWW YESSSS!!!! It has started, should have all parts by Wednesday!!!! So Fucking Stoked!!!.... if you couldn't tell :D

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