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Quazar- Watercooled 800D

frosty-kyogre

NOTE: old updates are broken in new system jump to page 2 for working updates.

I will clean and fix the old ones sometime i just dont have the time to go in and swap the images right now.

 

BEFORE

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AFTER

 

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Introduction------------------------------


So first off my name is frosty-kyogre, I've beeing using my 800D system for over a year and a half, I managed to fund and build this when I was 16 (I literally work ALL summer). I always have wanted to go beyond just an integrated Water cooler but it takes a while to build up that kind of money. Slowly I have been snatching up water blocks and other miscellaneous items and now I am ready to take the plunge. *Sploosh*

Now one reason it has taken so long is that I don't want to just half-as it and actually get the parts I want. I plan to stick three Rads in the 800D so there will be some modding to do to take out the bottom drive cage. Here are a list of things to do: (this list will serve as the project goals list and when each item is completed, it will be crossed off)

I am doing this on both OCN and now Linus' forums I like the ease of OCN for pics so unfortunately this is the rip. I just thought I'd like to show you guys and try to figure out vBulletin as this is my first major post. The build is also viewable here[/url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1361791/quazar-watercooled-800d-build-log#] if you prefer.
*edit* Pictures don't work as I feared from what people had said :( , I also cant get fresh attachments to work, So until I learn the workaround this is how it will sit.
*edit redux* nvm pics just don't show when you log out to check lol.



1: Acquire, prep and leak test all water cooling gear.
[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914]

2: Cut out bottom 240 rad mount. Update 4[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=103042#post103042]

3http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=103042#post103042'>: Mount and test fit water cooling components.http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=103042#post103042'> Update 6

4: Finalize water cooling layout

5: Lighting, add LEDs?(<+v likely extended goals)

6: MDXPC Individual sleeving?

7: ROCK OUT and bench this beast!


So there's not a whole lot to do but I gotta work around school and other activities: seeing as this is my main rig i dont want to have it down for to long. I plan to get started right away, as I have everything (mostly), and maybe push and finish next weekend, or the weekend after at the latest.


Parts------------------------------


Components:

Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D

CPU:Intel Core i7 2600K

Motherboard: ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z

RAM: 16GB of Corsair Dominator GT 2133MHz (4x4GB)

SSD: Corsair Force GT 120GB

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 2Tb

PSU: OCZ 1250W Gold Fully Modular PSU

Optical Drive: LG Blu-ray Re-Write 12x

GPU: AMD XFX Radeon HD 6990

Cooler (current): Corsair H100

Water cooling stoof :D


Pump: Swiftech MCP655 Pump x2

Pump Mod: Bitspower D5 Mod Kit Blue Finish x2

Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Top UV Blue

CPU Block: EK Supremacy Nickel Plexi

GPU Block:EK FC AMD 6990 Block Nickel Plexi

Mobo Block:EK FC ASUS MIVE Block Nickel Plexi

RAM Block:EK -RAM Dominator X4 CSQ Nickel Plexi

Radiators: 1x BlackIce GTX360

1x BlackIce GTX240

1x BlackIce GTX120

Coolant: Distilled and (probabally) Mayhems UV Blue

Reservoir: FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250mL

Tubing: XSPC High Flex Hose 1/2 ID 3/4 OD clear/ UV Blue

Fittings: Bistpower Black Sparkle 1/2 ID 3/4 OD, lots


Table of Contents------------------------------

Skip to different parts of the build.

[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96902#post96902]

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Update 2 - Cleaning and Leak Testinghttp://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914]

Update 3 - Fans, RAM(s) and Plans[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=102313#post102313]

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=103042#post103042'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Update 4 - Tear-down and Metalworkings![/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=103042#post103042]

Update 5 - Blocking and Case Prep[/url=http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=106057#post106057]

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Update 6 -Building and Setbacks






http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Well I think that's it! If you have any questions/comments/concerns/helpful advice you'd like to give, go ahead!

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>frosty-kyogre

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Final Pictureshttp://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>------------------------------

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>Final pictures here:

https://plus.google.com/photos/118262464153503590302/albums/5873888014544483937?authkey=CKSEqNeJgKT6vgE

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=111268#post111268'>http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/the-workbench/build-logs/96885-quazar-watercooled-800d?p=96914#post96914'>or in Update 13: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/5023-quazar-watercooled-800d/?p=139221

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Update 1 - Pictures of Hardware

Lots of pictures. Enjoy!

So basically all my gear is in and ready to go, just got the last of it on Tuesday from Performance PCs, but then I got sick, so I'm starting this now.

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Picked this stuff up today, one gallon is for testing/cleaning the other for the build

The tubing is 1/2 id to test and play around with but not for the final build.

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Here are the Rads in ascending order of size (120, 240 and 360)

They have 20 FPI and measure 5.4 cm deep with conservatively sized tanks.

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free stock fittings

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Bitspower

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Here is the FrozenQ Fusion V res

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The pumps and pump mod stuff

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Now for blocks

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Heres the tubing

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Testing a fitting

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And under UV

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Now all the fittings

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That's about all for right now but I'll have something up here pretty soon

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Update 2 - Cleaning and Leak Testing

So I had some time to cleanse the radiators of any junk or dust from factory and being in the box.

Step 1- Get Distilled Water

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Step 2- Get a Large Pot

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Step 3- Fill Pot with Distilled

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Step 4- Turn on High Heat

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Step 5- Put Pot on Element

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Step 6- Let it Come to a Boil

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Step 7- Fill Radiators

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Step 8- Let sit on Dry Towel to Test for Leaks

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Step 9-When Cool Enough to Handle, Shake

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Step 10- Drain Water and if not satisfactorily clean repeat Steps7-9

I also Rinsed and repeated this process for my 240mm and 120mm

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All three clean and drying

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I also filled my Reservoir to test for leaks overnight.

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Untill Next time Cheers!

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Haha, don't worry I observe the fact that I'm still under legal drinking age.

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Update 3 - Fans, RAM(s) and Plans

It's been a long and busy week, so sorry there were no updates.

I got home from school today and took some shots while the natural light was good, before going to work.

I forgot to mention the fans and new RAM I also have waiting.

I got the Fans and RAM a little while back from NCIX

(Two of the fans are already one the H100)

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The Fans are Gelid Wing PL (PWM and LED [blue of course])

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The RAM is Corsair Dominator GT 16Gb 2133Mhz (4x4Gb)

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I also gort a BitFenix Alchemy 12 in. 24 pin extender to make the run not so tight and ugly.

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The one I got had a taped rip in the bag, cheap plastic.

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(mocking it up, that's already better!)

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I tested and took a shot of the res (no leaks from over 5 days of holding water :D)

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And I broke a cable while pulling it out of the inverter...

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Also, turns out my 24 pin cable has a loose pin

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At this point I had to go to work but when I got home I fixed an old laptop that I've been meaning to for a while (sorry no pics) and the set to work on the broken cables.

Fixed.

[img ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1309025/width/500/height/1000

And fixed.

[img ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1309026/width/500/height/1000

I also mocked up this:

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Now I know it is sloppy but it was 2 a.m. and I was lazy.

So I figure you get the picture. I'm thinking for the loop:

Resivoir->Pump->Bottom 240-v>GPU->120->Mobo->Top 360-v>CPU->RAM->behind and back to Resivoir.

_________________Drain Port w/ Ball Valve___________Fill Port

Now I could play with the chipset order but this is basically how I want it and with 3 fans intake 3 fans out-take, as close to positive pressure as possible.

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Update 4 - Tear-down and Metalworkings!

So I got some time today and I figured it was as good a time as any to start work on the case.

So she started like this:

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Then the vid card came out.

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and the H100.

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Got the main-board out.

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Tore out the cabling.

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And put it all in a box, as a bench, I'm crazy like that.

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Video of Test box:

On the deck ready to start work.

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Measured up the top rad for reference (don't want to mess up).

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Took out the plastic rail.

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There are the offending rivets to remove, six of them.(four visible two inside)

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The front ones were drilled out.

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Now the annoying ones that I don't have the patients to take the hot swap cage out to properly and drill out, so I had to get angry with it.

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And got them out finally,, they are jammed in there and have a couple prongs in addition to the rivets.

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I marked out the rad mount holes.

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There nice and precise. The lower left one is on the junction of three holes but there is seven other screws.

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So Plan A is to drill holes in the formation of the hex up top. I marked out a piece of press board, painstakingly for what seemed like an hour or more getting the grid just right and mounted it to the case with backing to keep the metal flush while I drill.

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The press board was really getting chewed up and even pilot holes weren't helping, so I took it off to check it and...

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It's pretty rough and wonky so...

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Plan B is to cut out the area of the fan as I plan to get some mesh eventually (demciflex probably)

I got my dad to help with the dremel because he is a tradesman who is always working with powertools so I trust his hands not to slip, over mine (his wrist strength is literally super human).

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Turned out pretty sweet and straight too, ate up at least threee cut disks tho.

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Cut out the Drain port by the where the PSU mounts. and the fill port in the centre behind the 360.

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Cleaned up with a diamond grit file and a black paint pen. Then vacuumed out and wiped off with a damp micro fibre rag.

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Metal work is done (save a couple mount holes for res and pumps) Until next time Cheers.:cheers: (Gotta love root beer the extra is for CarnivalOfFear who came out and helped a bit (cameraman and entertainment mostly).

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Lookin great! Can't wait to see the finished build of it.

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Update 5 - Blocking and Case Prep

After school I brought one of my buds over to my house and CarnivalOfFear got his own ride over.

We stole the front room to use since there would be three of us and we just finished renovations so there is still tools littering it anyways.

After getting toghther the components, tools and a work surface tear down of the test box was started

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Using an old card table I got ready to block. Isopropyl Alcohol, check; gloves, check; TP, check; q-tips,check.

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Took the H100 out and off the CPU.

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All components to get blocked: assembled, or should I say Disassembled? These lonely RAM sticks actually wont be graced by a block as i have replacements that are 2133 and not 2000 (1366 speed) and I am currently looking for a new home for them, let me know if you are interested.

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My little Bro made us nachos so we took a quick break to surf and chat.

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After washing up, it was time for the nitty-gritty, starting by cleaning the CPU.

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Got the chipset block out and read the instructions, somewhat.

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Just some pics of handling the mobo, for no reason.

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Before shots.

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Unscrewed the block and started prying off the light (wish it was blue, will have to swap the micro LEDs that are on a small board in the logo sometime).

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CarnivalOfFear cleaning off the H100 as he'll be taking it off my hands once this is all set and done.

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DUSTY!

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NOT DUSTY!

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Mobo block with the light popped in.

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Meticulously cleaning the VRM and chipset, some TIM was really baked on and i used a plastic pot squeegee that worked really well and I didn't have to apply much pressure.

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Thermal pads applied to VRM.

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Tried to see if I could use the heat spreaders from the back of the VRM, but they don't work. NBD tho as they weren't on any chip they were just for when the VRM got warm and now they should always be cool.

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Aligning the holes on the block.

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Cleaning off any marks from TIM on the gloves.

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SHINY! And it looks sweet with fittings.

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Other more different angles

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The one capacitor thet touches b/c this block is for the P67 not the Z68 version but still works except this contact. might put some electrical tape on this before install.

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Camera man got lazy and missed me voiding the cards heatsink warranty and taking off the cooler.

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There's the squeegee at work, I have no idea what is being pointed at here tho.

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Mostly clean.

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More cleaning (I'm pretty anal, but the cleaner the better for temps, not i got annoyed by the gloves by this point so i just grounded out regularly.

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Better. All those poor q-tips lost in the valiant battle against used TIM.

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Thermal pads going on vRAM.

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All padded and greased.

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Back of block with standoffs installed

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Card

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Block (and standoff wrench)

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TIM (arctic MX-4)

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Cameraman missed the block being applied but here's the table, the mess is building. (and yes that's pizza that I'm stuffing in my face, yes it is already supper time, I'm just taking my time on blocking so i don't screw up).

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The case area, also a little messy

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Blocks on.:thumb:

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Backplate.

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Plugs and extension for clearance on. What isn't shown here is the process of removing the block and checking for good adhesion then putting it back on.

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CPU backplate.

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The socket with standoffs.

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Ooooo this needs no lapping, it's perfect, that's why it was protected.

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Installed.

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With fittings.

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New quad stck 16Gb RAM in, those heat spreaders wont be on for long

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Block seated (used MX-4 cause thats all i have, a bit much for ram.)

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Mounted and fittings on, the main board is done

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Got the pump parts laid out.

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Took note of the wireing before removing the pins

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Put the wires through and got it mounted to the pump top, the brackets were quickly cut down for the dual pump top and painted on the cut.

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Shots from the front.

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Going to the case finally.

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Drilled holes in mid plate and mounted the brackets.

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Mounted the res after some measuring and drilling.

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The res in detail.

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And that was it for the night, a job well done on a Monday.

The mid plate does sag a bit but I plan to whip someting up and maybe in the future design a bracket and get it cut (Dwood?).

The components should be mounted soon and get the tubing run.

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That looks boss, and your pops seems like a cool dude.

One thing I would suggest is sleeving the wires for the pump and such, keep it looking super clean.

- Silverstone TJ08B-E - Gigabyte Z87M-D3H - i7 4770k @ 4.0GHZ 1.2v - 16gb Kingston HyperX Black 1600 - Gigabyte GTX 770 OC 4GB -


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Love this build log, subscribed, can't wait to see more!

Come and join the awesome Official LTT Star Citizen Org at LTT Conglomerat,  GTA 5 LTT Crew at LTT Conglomarate


PC Specs - 4770k - OC 4.5GHz  - GTX 780 SC - 16GB HyperX - NZXT H440 White - Corsair H100i - Corsair AX750 - Samsung Evo 250GB - 2 x PA238Q - ATH-M50 - 

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Update 6 -Building and Setbacks

So I got the case and components situated out in another room.

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I installed the drain which the filter just passes.

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Here's a pic of a rad waiting for fans.

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Put in the fill port and still used a T for the turn.

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Turns out there really is no space for tubing, well time to get the pumps out and put a hole in.

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I marked the size with a fitting then sniped out the mesh and used a tube cut lengthwise for ghetto c-channel, this won't be seen so it doesn't really matter.

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Trying out some fitting combos fort he other side of the rad, need a T here for the drain, this might work, but I don't like the bends.

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The drain on the other hand looks great.

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Got the 360 in, but not the way I want it (fans are on top grr), because it only comes with the long screws and I don't have any M4s to cut down.

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Plus the 360's screws were silver unlike the others.

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The mess of working and encountering problems.

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I mocked up the mobo to figure out any other runs and fittings I may yet require.

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Due to being unable to finish I packed it all up neatly and called it a day.

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So unfortunately there will be a lull in the build for a bit and the rig will be down longer than intended.

I have to order some 90's, a 45 for the fill, move the res a little lower and get some black short M4 screws (might be able to get some mayhem dye too)

Hopefully I will get these asap.

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  • 1 month later...

Update 7 –Breath of Life

My build has been so neglected that it seems like I’ve died, and I may as well have. I have been so busy between going away on spring break, working and going to school that I’ve hardly looked at my rig. But I did not forget it and all this time I have been waiting on Bitspower Black Sparkle 90s which have been out of stock. This Tuesday I was able to order them and some other goodies which arrived today.

Here’s a list of parts:

2 x Bitspower Dual LED - Pre-wired with 4-Pin Connector - 5mm - Blue (BP-2LED-BL)

Cable No changes (stock, unsleeved)

Sleeve Color Black

Heatshrink Color Black $9.98

3 x Mod/Smart Dual LED - Pre-wired with 4-Pin Connector - 3mm - Blue (LED-3D2-B)

Cable No changes (stock, unsleeved)

Sleeve Color Black

Heatshrink Color Black $9.00

4 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Low-Profile Stop Fitting (BP-BSWP-C09) $13.96

1 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Dye - 15ml Blue (MD-DYE-B-15) $8.95

1 x DEMCiflex Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Custom Filter for Dual 120mm Radiators or Fans (DEMCIFILTER-DUAL-120) $22.95

1 x *** NEW *** Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter (CA-PWM-03) $6.99

6 x Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-BS90R) $65.70

1 x Bitspower Plastic Fan Adapter 120mm to 140mm - Black (BP-FA140120-BK) $4.99

1 x Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle 45 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-BSWP-C30) $6.99

6 x Button Head Cap Screw M4 x .7 x 10mm - Black Steel - Set of 4 (BUTTON-M4-10-BK) $10.74

1 x Bitspower Dual IG1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary Mini Snake-Style Adapter (BP-BSMSR) $13.95

1 x Bitspower G 1/4" Silver Shiny 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (BP-WTP-C39) $6.99

2 x Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 30cm RGB (18x SMD LEDs) (PH-83127)

Sleeve Color Black

Heatshrink Color Black $23.98

1 x Phobya LED-Flexlight HighDensity 60cm RGB (36x SMD LEDs) (PH-83134)

Sleeve Color Black

Heatshrink Color Black $20.99

1 x Phobya LED-Flexlight RGB Controller With IR-Remote (PH-83156) $18.95

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Sub-Total: $245.11

FedEx (International Economy): $51.75

Discount Coupons: OCN55 : -$13.48

Shipping Insurance declined: $0.00

Total: $283.38

And now time for pics.

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There's all the bits

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Here's the gelid 4 way splitter I'm going to use for the 360 and 120 to free up some mobo fan headers

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This is the fan filter for the bottom 240, which will need some modifying

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I went with phobya RGB leds that have a remote, these will be sweet when thy are on and stealthy when off.

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So i can have a matching fan on the HDD cage (which may need it) i got this adapter.

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Some mayhems blue to match.

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Here are the dense RGB LEDs this is the 60cm one but besides length they are all the same.

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A few 3mm and a couple 5mm leds (blue) for blocks, ect.

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The all important fittings.

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And some small M4s for the rads where I need them.

So hopefully I'll have time to finish this off soon, but that's all for now as tomorrow I'm going to fan expo as engie from TF2.

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Sick Build so far! Looks awesome.

15" MBP TB

AMD 5800X | Gigabyte Aorus Master | EVGA 2060 KO Ultra | Define 7 || Blade Server: Intel 3570k | GD65 | Corsair C70 | 13TB

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Sweet build :D

Please tell me if the waterblock for the 6990 is worth it. I have one too and am looking at maybe watercooling soon.

The first step to insanity is believing in your sanity.

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excellent work

CPU: i5 2500k@4.2 MBO: Asrock P67 Extreme4 GPU: Gigabyte GTX 560Ti 1GB RAM: Corsair 8GB 1600 SSD: Samsung 840 Basic 250 HDD: Samsung F3 1TB + WD 2TB Green + WD MyBook 1TB external; ODD: LG BD/DVDRW; PSU: Corsair TX 650
Case: Fractal Define R3 Black Pearl; Mouse/Keyboard Logitech Performance MX + Wireless K800; Monitor: Dell U2311H 
 

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Update 8 –The End is Nigh

On Saturday I had a blast at Fan Expo, after the 2 hour line up (for pre-registered ticket holders), where I saw Stan Lee and was dressed as Engineer from TF2. (excuse these photos they are taken with my phone)

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On Sunday it was finally time to get this build in motion again.

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Got the work area setup and all the parts out.

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The res came out of a box and readied to be installed. I put the silver kill coil in and started to figure out clearances, the main reason for the extra fittings. My pal (CarnivalOfFear) came over to be my assistant and cameraman. We got the pumps out of the way to work on the res mounting.

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A couple of shots of me in my NCIX shirt, what better to wear when building?

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The pump pads were removed with a blowdrier and the pumps moved forward to let the res sit down lower.1000

I used the 45 to get the inlet installed

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Next i ran the return from the ram to the res behind the board, what trickery.

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I tied it in so it didnt flap arouond.

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The 360 just fits in the top with the fill and the 120 with fan on just leaves room for runs off the 360.

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The pumps are back in place with runs from the res and to the 240 rad.

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With the vid card in this actually starts to get tight.

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After a bit of play the run from the 240 withthe junction to the drain is run to the vid card.

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I used the snake, a non-rotary 90 and the T to get it positioned and it all actually worked, hows that for a guess.

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With the runs over the board I started back to front: first the 360 to mobo, then 120 to mobo and next 360 to cpu.

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Mega blur but you can make out the run from 360 to mobo which I redid with a 90 to soften the bend.

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For the CPU to mobo I needed a tight curve so i bent the tube after soaking twice in hot water.

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And the hot water again.

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The run is in and not kinked so the loop is complete!

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The full Loop.

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Chopped the firewire header as i dont have one on my mobo nor have i ever used a firewire device, I Ain't Got Time Fo That Shii...

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Ready to fill and leak test.

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Mixed the fluid.

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Nice colour, but it turned out to be not deep enough in the tubes.

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Used a fill line.

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Bleeding the loop has been annoying so far but this is how it sat for the night.

I'll try to do more tonight but the update might not come until tomorrow.

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Sweet build :D Please tell me if the waterblock for the 6990 is worth it. I have one too and am looking at maybe watercooling soon.

I'll make sure to run some benchmarks (mabe all the Linus done ones that I have the games for) and I'll track my temps so that you have an idea but it is going to come down to the dissipation area and flow rate of whatever you end up going with. Regardless the block will keep it cooler, defiantly below 80, but closer to 40 (hopefully)

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Update 9 –Ever Nearer (bonus)

So tonight I worked out some bubbles and set it up to bleed.

The big challenge and solution was to rotate the case so that the bubble on the intake to the pump went into the res. After that wiggling and leaving the pumps running has got it bleeding quite well.

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This is before adding some more dye.

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These are after adding dye. Should I add more or is it good? The colour is close to the fans.

And here's a vid if you are interested:

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For any of the mods reading this, frosty-kyogre can't edit his original post anymore to add more to the table of contents.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Update 10 –Bit by Bit
 
I didn't make much progress. What I did Today was more like one step backward two steps forward.
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I didn't like how close this was to kinking so I decided to rework the loop. 

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I decided to swap the vid card outlet going to the rad to going to the CPU. This means all the heat enters the line at once, i didn't want this but the fluid moves so fast that the difference will be at most about half a degree. the line from the RAM to CPU was re-run to be from the rad to RAM. The flow bwtween the Vid card and the RAM has switched directions in this change.
(Yes the cathode is loose; the pad doesn't stick anymore, but I have the tape or Velcro to fix this...soon)
 
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Here is the loop mostly drained.
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The ol' switch-a-roo and the kink problem is fixed.

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After literally an hour of filling and bleeding I finally got the bubbles worked out again. Now it is back to where it started today and ready for running to work out small bubbles and final touches like wiring.
The whole build should be wrapping up soon.
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Update 11 –Let There Be Light
 
While running to get micro bubbles out I decided to mount my lights.
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They all work :D
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In the dark RGB.
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Since the 3M tape included with the lights doesn't stick to the silicone covering (nor would any other tape) I had to use tape rings and Velcro pads.
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Got one in to test.
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Here is where I stuck the box. (Ignore the wiring mess it will be cleaned up.)
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And here's some shots with the cathodes also on.

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I should be able to wire and finish it all up tomorrow.
On another note any suggestions on hiding the ugly Blu-ray drive, paint will peel from it as it isn't bare metal but coated and carbon fiber wrap wouldn't match.
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Update 12 –99.9% D.O.N.E.!

On Friday night I had some time to finish it up. but I've been so busy since that I couldn't compile an update.

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So it started like this with only molex and 24-pin and after 1-2 hours it looked like this:

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Besides trying to get good runs it took so long because I had to cut off a +4 pin off the CPU 8 pin so I didn't have to hide it and waste space.

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Just another shot. the SSD uses the extender so I only need 1 SATA cable but I needed 2 molex because of the RGB LEDs. For the SSD I needed to flip the way the right angle went.

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I modified the DEMCIflex filter to fit my opening.

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And installed it.

 

So after hooking it up to a monitor I had a few issues. The power button didn't work but it had been finicky before, It wouldn't boot but after a simple RAM timing change it did (I put in new RAM remember), the boot also took a long time and when I was in the fans stayed at 100% and my HDD wasn't showing up. I researched a little bit and played with Speed Fan then called it a day to tackle it with a fresh mind the on Saturday. The next day I was able to set the fans in BIOS and got the power button to work (literally just wiggled the wires). I had stuff to do and couldn't work on it any more that day but first thing this morning I switched the HDD to SATA 2 and now it works and the boot is faster/back to normal. So now it runs 100% i just have a couple tweaks to do,benchmark and then take some beauty shots. More coming soon!

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Update 13 -Final Photos and OC

 

I had time today to set up a simple photo booth and take some shots with my NEX-5

Ill let the photos do the talking:

 

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And that's it you can access the full gallery at:

https://plus.google.com/photos/118262464153503590302/albums/5873888014544483937?authkey=CKSEqNeJgKT6vgE

 

I also piddled around and OCed I got the clock up to 4.2 no effort and I'd like to keep it there to maintain a decent lifetime.

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