URGENT: Quick Disconnect or Valve?

[RogueCow]

So you want a quick disconnect because you won't have room to leave a coil of soft tubing in the case? In a 900D? Have you seen the 900D Lol. I guess I'm a bit confused as to why QDC's are even being questioned

 

 

JayZ2cents put a 480 and 240 radiator, along with 2 pumps, fans, and a draining coil of soft tubing in the basement; you will surely have enough room to stow at least 3-4 feet of soft tubing with only a single rad store. Of note, not to put LTT down, but JayZ is the best youtube source for Liquid Cooling setup advice and videos. If you haven't seen any of his vids, watch them all before you build a thing.

For real though, If you have the drain loop in the basement, just have a T fitting coming off the pump (drain line would be the vertical/perpendicular part of the T), and permenently attach a 3-4 foot section of soft tubing with a ball valve on the end. The T fitting won't affect your flow at all, and you save money!

 

The entire purpose of the drain line is to be functional, the visual benefits go away once you hide it in the basement of the 900D.

The purpose of a quick disconnect is, you guessed it, to quickly disconnect things that are constantly being added and removed... Even if you plan on upgrading soon,

I saw you talking hard line in one of your comments, so disconnects are out of the question there anyways...

 

Nothing outside of Linus' whole room water setup, or a small case with no room for a drain line, would really warrant a quick disconnect IMO

 

Just make the soft tubing long enough to drape over the table into a bucket, put a ball valve on the end, and save yourself money!

One of the bigger pains in the ass of water loops is filling and draining, so the easier you make it, the better.

 

 

Also, do what you have to do to find pure DI water; even the drinking filters for tap water leave a bunch of impurities that can result in a dirty loop!

 

Hope this helps dude,

can't wait to see your build.

 

PS. look for a 1 way ball valve (only threaded/barbed on one side). It may be cheaper, and you can just put it on the very tip of your drain line and let it pour right out.

Unless you want to plug it for extra security....

[RogueCow]

 

Just another idea, which would save you needing to plug the drain line to feel safe ($11 is $11...)

 

If you ran the drain line up along the front of the case, so the ball valve is above the water line, you would only need the ball valve so it doesnt spill out when you lower it into the bucket.

You would never need the plug to backup the ball valve, since the valve would be above the water line anyways!

 

You could even just skip the fittings all together and zip tie a plug in there or simply kink the hose. That would save you even more.

 

Note that in the terrible drawing, the red line is the drain line, the yellow is your cpu loop, and the red line is Tee'd into the main loop perpendicularly (preferably horizontal)

to reduce/eliminate flow restriction through the T.

 

The drain line would'nt start to drain until it is lowered out of the system, below the red water line in the res.

 

HTH

[UmerF]

When I was building my loop (hardline) I opted for a Bitspower valve for the drain port. I was never happy with buying it anyway as it doesn't (to me at least) feel particularly high quality. This was confirmed when I started leak testing my loop and the valve was not capable of holding water. I stripped the system down several times and changed compression fittings and seals etc to see if any of those were at fault but it continued leaking every time.

 

In the end I added in a Y splitter (Like a T-Joint but the 2nd section splits off at 45degrees rather than 90) and added a quick disconnect to the end. I am much happier with it functionally now and have used it a couple of times to drain the loop as I wasn't happy with the dye I was using.

 

Here's an oldish picture but you can see the Y splitter and quick disconnect coming straight out of the bottom of the pump.

 

 

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuckkkkk! You responded right after I wrote that and for some reason I never got a notification on my phone via Tapatalk that you replied, erghh.

 

Maaaaaaaaan, that Y splitter idea sure sounds much better. Much better than just putting quick disconnects to one of the pipes going in rad and what not, I totally should've gone and done that myself but just yesterday I had order placed for the valve erghh. Placed the order for following items and I might have some more time to place order for other items as well, waiting for a confirmation from my local importer who will get me those and then pull the plug on it. So far I've ordered the following items.

 

- http://www.amazon.com/Focused-NF-F12-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRATC/ (Already have two in my system right now, third one will go just fine.)

- http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-CB-LED20-WT-2-Metres-Sensitivity-Sleeved/dp/B0046Y5Z92/

- http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-2-way-Valve-Black-Nickel/dp/B009KBHSH8/

- http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Male-Fitting-Black-Chrome/dp/B004TD7WEQ/

 

I took the two items I mentioned in my original post, the ATX PSU Adapter and the Plugs as both are unnecessary. Specially that adapter, a simple paper clip can do the job .. lol.

 

What sucks is .. I ended up paying $30 just for the valve and Male Fitting for it which I'll now replace with Y splitter most likely after looking into it further but for now at least I'll have something. On the bright side, I'll be selling some of my parts to other guy here in coming weeks to replace with other stuff so I can always make it up that way.

 

I'll probably do Y splitter with arcylic tubing like you've done or even before with soft tubing as it doesn't matter. One thing please, how do you drain with it? Do you have a small soft pipe with female end attached at it that you simply plug it in with the quick disconnect and let the water come out by pumping and what not?

 

Oh and thanks a ton for your input in this matter, it's highly appreciated

 

So you want a quick disconnect because you won't have room to leave a coil of soft tubing in the case? In a 900D? Have you seen the 900D Lol. I guess I'm a bit confused as to why QDC's are even being questioned

 

 

JayZ2cents put a 480 and 240 radiator, along with 2 pumps, fans, and a draining coil of soft tubing in the basement; you will surely have enough room to stow at least 3-4 feet of soft tubing with only a single rad store. Of note, not to put LTT down, but JayZ is the best youtube source for Liquid Cooling setup advice and videos. If you haven't seen any of his vids, watch them all before you build a thing.

For real though, If you have the drain loop in the basement, just have a T fitting coming off the pump (drain line would be the vertical/perpendicular part of the T), and permenently attach a 3-4 foot section of soft tubing with a ball valve on the end. The T fitting won't affect your flow at all, and you save money!

 

The entire purpose of the drain line is to be functional, the visual benefits go away once you hide it in the basement of the 900D.

The purpose of a quick disconnect is, you guessed it, to quickly disconnect things that are constantly being added and removed... Even if you plan on upgrading soon,

I saw you talking hard line in one of your comments, so disconnects are out of the question there anyways...

 

Nothing outside of Linus' whole room water setup, or a small case with no room for a drain line, would really warrant a quick disconnect IMO

 

Just make the soft tubing long enough to drape over the table into a bucket, put a ball valve on the end, and save yourself money!

One of the bigger pains in the ass of water loops is filling and draining, so the easier you make it, the better.

 

 

Also, do what you have to do to find pure DI water; even the drinking filters for tap water leave a bunch of impurities that can result in a dirty loop!

 

Hope this helps dude,

can't wait to see your build.

 

PS. look for a 1 way ball valve (only threaded/barbed on one side). It may be cheaper, and you can just put it on the very tip of your drain line and let it pour right out.

Unless you want to plug it for extra security....

 

Man, totally cursing my self for not reading y'all responses yesterday I have no idea how I missed the notifications (if I got any that is) yesterday and simply went to bed and just visited again -___-

 

Anyways, let's get to the good part of discussion. I have 900D with me right now and yes it's a monster case, been using it for few weeks and was using 800D for couple years before that with no custom loop whatsoever as this is my first time diving into it but I really really really don't want to keep an extra foot or more long pipe in the case when I can avoid it which should be possible with a simple quick disconnect and Y splitter, right? Pretty much what the other guy has done in a post above yours.

 

JayZ is definitely the man for the job, I've seen his videos on all of that in the past but not extensively as I usually would have before doing something like this but that's a good reminder and I'll resort to his videos shortly.

 

I like your idea of T fitting as well, although it'd be same as Y fitting unless there's something that I'm missing? Merely just a different shape so whatever suits my build and location better go for that one? As for the permanent part .. I can avoid that by putting the one end of quick disconnect right on the fitting like the guy above you has done and keep that pipe aside and only connect it with another end of quick disconnect for draining. It'll fulfill the same purpose, no? It'll definitely cost a bit more but I just spent ~$500 on the loop so far with the items I've bought everything separate since it costs a bit more here and then this Amazon stuff is separate, I don't want to cheap out at the end by merely saving $10-20 ya know?

 

Yes, I agree that the whole purpose is to be functional but the aesthetics of the build mainly .. I think I'll have OCD issues just knowing that the pipe is sitting there like that lol. Quick disconnects can get costly very fast, no doubt and to even use them just for draining I'll need male and female both to properly do the work unless I plan to take out fitting each time for draining then I can make do with a single fitting and not get the other end such as male/female. I definitely will be upgrading to 6700k as soon as that processor becomes available again locally by Intel Pakistan but that'd be it but after that I'll be looking for motherboard and chances are that'll be the one lasting me for years to come. I'm waiting for Maximus VIII Formula so I can water cool that with it's hybrid-cooling feature without needing to buy aftermarket blocks from EK and what not but like I said .. once all that is done it should be good for years. GPU on the other hand, I upgrade every year with whatever is out since I game at 4K so whatever is hot I get it like right now running 980 Ti, was gonna SLI it but since I'm not a fan of SLI and with Pascal coming soon I'm holding it off just fine and I don't think I'll be water cooling GPU anytime soon until I find a perfect card for 4K gaming that doesn't need upgrade every freaking year to run things at Ultra which is highly unlikely but fingers crossed for Pascal in SLI and what not.

 

I can see what you mean by that, when something can be done without QDC then why bother with it .. I guess it's really just the OCD thing that I mentioned above lol and I find it's a bit safer than valve now that the other guy above you said he had issues with his valve? I'll see about mine when it gets here.

 

You might find this funny coming from a guy talking about OCD and what not that my system is actually right now on a floor, not even carpet but tiling and in a country like Pakistan .. basically a desert in general dust is a huge issue. I have a huge ass desk but my system is still on the floor but eventually it'll be going on it's dedicated mount/desk and not on my desk where I put my monitors on but as of right now some repair process going on at my place and other issues so never really got around to it thus I really just need a foot long soft pipe from the case to easily put it out and what not if I decide to go your way of keeping the drain pipe in my case.

 

I got a great source of distilled water, directly from distillation lab whenever required so I think I'll be fine now. The guy selling me all this brand new stuff mentioned in the OP has access to distillation lab so I can easily get it from him.

 

I'll definitely post final build pictures here for sure and make sure to tag you guys who have gave their input so far and anyone that may chime in here. It'll be an ongoing project even after this as I'll keep on upgrading I'm sure. I have the main equipment now such as water block, pump, reservoir etc so other stuff really is just fittings, tubing, dye etc.

 

I couldn't find any such valve so I resorted to buying these two items:

 

- http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-2-way-Valve-Black-Nickel/dp/B009KBHSH8/

- http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Male-Fitting-Black-Chrome/dp/B004TD7WEQ/

 

I took out two items from my Amazon list, such as the XSPC plugs for valve and ATX PSU Bridge/Adapter for testing as both are unnecessary when I can use a simple paper click instead of that bridge/adapter and if the valve works correctly which it should I wouldn't need a plug for extra security as I'll make sure I don't mistakenly open the valve in the case lol.

 

Capture.JPG

 

Just another idea, which would save you needing to plug the drain line to feel safe ($11 is $11...)

 

If you ran the drain line up along the front of the case, so the ball valve is above the water line, you would only need the ball valve so it doesnt spill out when you lower it into the bucket.

You would never need the plug to backup the ball valve, since the valve would be above the water line anyways!

 

You could even just skip the fittings all together and zip tie a plug in there or simply kink the hose. That would save you even more.

 

Note that in the terrible drawing, the red line is the drain line, the yellow is your cpu loop, and the red line is Tee'd into the main loop perpendicularly (preferably horizontal)

to reduce/eliminate flow restriction through the T.

 

The drain line would'nt start to drain until it is lowered out of the system, below the red water line in the res.

 

HTH

 

Luckily, I did drop buying the plugs which were $11.99 so .. $11.99 is $11.99 lol. I'm all for spending ridiculous amount of money for things I don't need but only if they make sense to me, mainly me .. even if it doesn't to others at the end of the day it's really me who it's getting to but don't take that the wrong way as I take all your suggestions you've given very seriously and will be following up on it for sure such as with that T fitting and what not.

 

I like that idea, I can do that and neatly tuck away the piping if I decide to keep the soft tubing inside the case for draining reasons. Once again, good thing I dropped into buying the plugs so it won't be going to waste at all but I definitely like the idea of keeping the valve away water line if I decide to go that way.

 

You want me to skip the fittings for drain or fittings altogether? I assume you're talking about drain end because without fitting nothing will work at all, lol. Even if I decide to drop compression fitting which I've already purchased .. without normal fitting even it won't work so I'm sure you're referring to the drain end fitting?

 

That drawing sure helps and that loop would definitely be cost effective, I'll definitely take that into consideration if I decide to keep some of the soft tube inside the case for draining purposes.

 

 

Please refer to the drawing above, that's how I'm planning to keep my loop. White being the rad, yellow being the tubing, red being the reservoir, green being the water block and blue being the pump.

 

I didn't draw/mention anything for draining there but I'll be connecting the valve to the reservoir base as I guess that's where you connect the drain pipe or is it the pump? I'll look into that and make sure I do connect fitting but not entirely sure on that here so you can correct me if I'm wrong here as well lol.

 

Once again, both of you thanks a lot for your input. It definitely helped a lot, only if I read it last night I would've gone with Y/T fittings instead of ball valve and probably put QDC with it all which I still will in coming weeks as I sell some of the stuff I'm getting now.

 

By the way, thinking of ordering the following items as well. Please give your input:

 

- http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-Reservoir-Bracket-140mm-BKT-TK140F/dp/B004I2MO78/ (Reservoir bracket, my stuff doesn't come with any so I'll need one to keep it mounted otherwise it's just sitting there .. I'll probably tie it with something in meanwhile.)

- http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-Adjustable-Reservoir-Bracket-72-125mm/dp/B008RM0AH6/ (Same thing as above, a bit more pricey and can hold other sizes of reservoir but basically the same purpose.)

- http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-Antimicrobial-999-Strip/dp/B00A66HMRC/ (I heard it helps with algae? So ordering it, gonna cost me $10 to get it here.)

- http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014QW98SC?psc=1 (Smexy things, I'm not a fan of LEDs and all but these looks kinda subtle so thinking of giving it a shot .. I'll use them with Noctua Industrial 3000 RPM Fans. LED ones will be pushing it, and Noctua ones will be pulling it. I kinda feel like it's a wrong combo? But I want the fans to be at the bottom to show the fun. LED Fans are 1500 RPM, I think. Please do give input on this.)

- http://www.amazon.com/Koolance-LIQ-702CL-B-LIQ-702-High-Performance-Colorless/dp/B004YFA3AO/ (Coolant, is it better than Distilled Water? Considering it to use it for my final finished loop with proper dye and all so I don't keep on wasting money on importing it unless you mix this with distilled water? But I feel like the dye/pastel is mixed with this or distilled water and then it goes on.)

- http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekoolant-Pastel-White-Concentrate-250mL/dp/B00NG42LP4/ (Will be doing this in 900D if I keep the white motherboard theme. Either ASUS Z170 Deluxe or Gigabyte G1 Gaming. Unless I go for Maximus VIII Formula then it'll all change to Red.)

 

Once my final dye is confirmed and all, if I'm going black and red theme or black/white and hints of red theme .. that's when I'll get sleeved cables for my build as well. Using AX1200i and it's a beast as we all know, sleeved cables are a must for such a build like mine at this point IMO.

 

Once again, thank you so much for all your input. Please keep them coming, they're gonna help immensely. I'll create a separate thread to show off the build once I get all the hardware and I'm done putting in together.

[RogueCow]

Sorry you didn't catch it in time. Yeah, sometimes I don't get the notifications when i should, but oh well. Try to call and cancel??

 

Unless you got a fancy pump, why not just put it in the basement of the 900D and have the input from the reservoir and output from the pump come up?

I guess I just don't like the look of a random pump sitting in the case (to each their own I guess)...

 

When I was talking about fittings, all I was really talking about was the draining system. I assume you are just using normal comp fittings where you can, and not quick disconnects everywhere...

 

Below is a revised drawing that hides the pump, and a long length of soft drainage tubing, in the basement (what I would do for easiest draining/maintanence, and hiding an ugly pump)

I was too lazy to get a new pic from the web, so just disregard the original pump placement and return line you had in there...

 

and BTW, You don't necessarily have to have your drain attached to the reservoir.... In fact that may be the worst place for a drain; how would you drain any part of the system that is lower than the reservoir????  on the drawing, anything below that sweet wavy water line would not be able to be drained through the reservoir without turning the system over and over and over to get all the liquid out... Considering the pump is likely to be your point of failure and the part you'll need to change out most/first, not having a way to drain the water out of it could be very bad in the future.

 

 

Blue- pump, Yellow-Tubing, Green- Tee, Purple- 3-4 feet of coiled up soft tubing for draining, Orange- Places you could have a ball valve.

 

 

I would put the ball valve right off the Tee, and have the hose empty, open ended coiled up somewhere in the basement. This would save you some extra water volume and keep your system lighter, all the while making it super easy to drain your system in an emergency/ for normal maintenance...

 

 

 

In the end,

You really need to think this through and make sure you can drain the entire system without needing to rotate the actual case in the case you need to disconnect a part of you water system... Any water gets on your components because you still had some liquid in your system and everything is Toast...

 

with a mid or itx tower, flipping a case around to chase the water out is nbd...

Because the 900D is a monster, I don't think it's practical to plan on rotating a system over and over until it's empty when the case itself weighs a million kilopounds (you heard the new unit here first folks)....

 

On another note, the Tee-vs-Wye comment. Notice that out of the pump and through the tee is a straight water path for the circulation loop? If you put a 90 degree bend right in front of a pump,

that increases resistance to circulation and reduces flow... Realistically, will it make a difference to performance? 99.99999% confident it won't... But making the path easier to flow will keep your pump from getting stressed and burning out.

 

Hope this helps

[UmerF]

Sorry you didn't catch it in time. Yeah, sometimes I don't get the notifications when i should, but oh well. Try to call and cancel??

 

Unless you got a fancy pump, why not just put it in the basement of the 900D and have the input from the reservoir and output from the pump come up?

I guess I just don't like the look of a random pump sitting in the case (to each their own I guess)...

 

When I was talking about fittings, all I was really talking about was the draining system. I assume you are just using normal comp fittings where you can, and not quick disconnects everywhere...

 

Below is a revised drawing that hides the pump, and a long length of soft drainage tubing, in the basement (what I would do for easiest draining/maintanence, and hiding an ugly pump)

I was too lazy to get a new pic from the web, so just disregard the original pump placement and return line you had in there...

 

and BTW, You don't necessarily have to have your drain attached to the reservoir.... In fact that may be the worst place for a drain; how would you drain any part of the system that is lower than the reservoir????  on the drawing, anything below that sweet wavy water line would not be able to be drained through the reservoir without turning the system over and over and over to get all the liquid out... Considering the pump is likely to be your point of failure and the part you'll need to change out most/first, not having a way to drain the water out of it could be very bad in the future.

 

basement plumbing.jpg

 

Blue- pump, Yellow-Tubing, Green- Tee, Purple- 3-4 feet of coiled up soft tubing for draining, Orange- Places you could have a ball valve.

 

 

I would put the ball valve right off the Tee, and have the hose empty, open ended coiled up somewhere in the basement. This would save you some extra water volume and keep your system lighter, all the while making it super easy to drain your system in an emergency/ for normal maintenance...

 

 

 

In the end,

You really need to think this through and make sure you can drain the entire system without needing to rotate the actual case in the case you need to disconnect a part of you water system... Any water gets on your components because you still had some liquid in your system and everything is Toast...

 

with a mid or itx tower, flipping a case around to chase the water out is nbd...

Because the 900D is a monster, I don't think it's practical to plan on rotating a system over and over until it's empty when the case itself weighs a million kilopounds (you heard the new unit here first folks)....

 

On another note, the Tee-vs-Wye comment. Notice that out of the pump and through the tee is a straight water path for the circulation loop? If you put a 90 degree bend right in front of a pump,

that increases resistance to circulation and reduces flow... Realistically, will it make a difference to performance? 99.99999% confident it won't... But making the path easier to flow will keep your pump from getting stressed and burning out.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

Sadly, I don't think that can happen as I didn't order it myself but had someone else do it as he'll be importing it from States to Pakistan via DHL so I don't have to deal with local customs here which can be a bitch. Sadly, what's ordered is ordered.

 

Yeah, I could keep it in basement and let the pipe come out of basement, will look even cooler considering the pump I got is good and ~$100+ from EK, this one to be exact: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-acetal-original-csq-incl-pump it's nothing fancy in looks because it's acetal and not clear top where you can see the water flow. I'll definitely consider that and end up doing what you just suggested, that way pipes coming out of basement going in reservoir will definitely be much sexier than few inches of pipe from pump to res right away.

 

Yes, I haven't ordered any QDC fittings as of yet at all. Right now I'm getting 8x of these https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-nickel and they're the only fitting I'm getting and that's all I need for now. Will be buying additional such as T and what not now after you guys have suggested.

 

The pipe thing is something I can do, definitely doable like that but I was thinking if I decide to install 4x fans down in the basement .. the LED ones at that it'll be hard and a bitch to get access to it all or maybe not as I can always access from the top anyway and since the case is huge it's hardly any issue. I guess I'll see when the piping gets here so I can put it in there to see what's up.

 

Yeah, I didn't think of that .. I was solely relying on pump to drain the water out and didn't think what would happen in case of pump failure. I guess the drain point should go into pump now? Considering it'll be at the lowest .. preferably in the basement now. That's some sound advice that I didn't think of before, will definitely follow that. Best is to be able to drain everything out without needing to turn on the pump.

 

Your drawing sure helps, I guess even if I use QDC fittings instead of valves I can apply it the same? Installing QDC right off the T fitting and keep the pipe away with another end of QDC fitting and only connect it when I need to drain as that'd be the sweet spot? Otherwise for now valve should work just fine.

 

Well, I'd usually turn off the system when draining and what not so even if by any slim chance any leakage is there and what not .. I'd make sure the system is totally dried up before turning it on again. Giving it 24-48hrs or even more if needed depending on the kind of spill but I'll be extra careful to not let that happen but Hey .. accidents do happen, right?

 

Definitely, man. I cannot .. just cannot imagine to even shake the freaking 900D to get the water out, thing is a monster and considering to tilting and rotating the case to get the water out is out of the question thus need to make sure water setup is as easy and clean as possible so none of that is necessary. First goal should be to be able to drain without the pump, second should be to rely on pump if first one fails or still some of the water is left .. or just for safety precaution to make sure nothing is left in the loop.

 

That makes sense, considering pump failure can be crucial for whole build just changing a fitting that's gonna save the same purpose but with extra sense of security it's gonna be a no brainer to not do that. T fitting it is, something like this should do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Threaded-T-Fitting-Chrome-Finish/dp/B00CSTLCDA/ (picking the chrome finish as all the other fittings are same color.) In future fittings, I'll most likely go black .. we'll see.

 

LMK what you think of this and I assume you approve of most of the other items from Amazon I'm buying including the LED fans? I'll pull the plug on it and send payment for that order.

[RogueCow]

Sadly, I don't think that can happen as I didn't order it myself but had someone else do it as he'll be importing it from States to Pakistan via DHL so I don't have to deal with local customs here which can be a bitch. Sadly, what's ordered is ordered.

 

Yeah, I could keep it in basement and let the pipe come out of basement, will look even cooler considering the pump I got is good and ~$100+ from EK, this one to be exact: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-acetal-original-csq-incl-pump it's nothing fancy in looks because it's acetal and not clear top where you can see the water flow. I'll definitely consider that and end up doing what you just suggested, that way pipes coming out of basement going in reservoir will definitely be much sexier than few inches of pipe from pump to res right away.

 

Yes, I haven't ordered any QDC fittings as of yet at all. Right now I'm getting 8x of these https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-nickel and they're the only fitting I'm getting and that's all I need for now. Will be buying additional such as T and what not now after you guys have suggested.

 

The pipe thing is something I can do, definitely doable like that but I was thinking if I decide to install 4x fans down in the basement .. the LED ones at that it'll be hard and a bitch to get access to it all or maybe not as I can always access from the top anyway and since the case is huge it's hardly any issue. I guess I'll see when the piping gets here so I can put it in there to see what's up.

 

Yeah, I didn't think of that .. I was solely relying on pump to drain the water out and didn't think what would happen in case of pump failure. I guess the drain point should go into pump now? Considering it'll be at the lowest .. preferably in the basement now. That's some sound advice that I didn't think of before, will definitely follow that. Best is to be able to drain everything out without needing to turn on the pump.

 

Your drawing sure helps, I guess even if I use QDC fittings instead of valves I can apply it the same? Installing QDC right off the T fitting and keep the pipe away with another end of QDC fitting and only connect it when I need to drain as that'd be the sweet spot? Otherwise for now valve should work just fine.

 

Well, I'd usually turn off the system when draining and what not so even if by any slim chance any leakage is there and what not .. I'd make sure the system is totally dried up before turning it on again. Giving it 24-48hrs or even more if needed depending on the kind of spill but I'll be extra careful to not let that happen but Hey .. accidents do happen, right?

 

Definitely, man. I cannot .. just cannot imagine to even shake the freaking 900D to get the water out, thing is a monster and considering to tilting and rotating the case to get the water out is out of the question thus need to make sure water setup is as easy and clean as possible so none of that is necessary. First goal should be to be able to drain without the pump, second should be to rely on pump if first one fails or still some of the water is left .. or just for safety precaution to make sure nothing is left in the loop.

 

That makes sense, considering pump failure can be crucial for whole build just changing a fitting that's gonna save the same purpose but with extra sense of security it's gonna be a no brainer to not do that. T fitting it is, something like this should do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Threaded-T-Fitting-Chrome-Finish/dp/B00CSTLCDA/ (picking the chrome finish as all the other fittings are same color.) In future fittings, I'll most likely go black .. we'll see.

 

LMK what you think of this and I assume you approve of most of the other items from Amazon I'm buying including the LED fans? I'll pull the plug on it and send payment for that order.

 

If you look at my drawing, the tee fitting (the one you linked to is perfectly fine btw) would be the lowest point of the system, so the pump would even need to be on at all for the system to drain. Gravity is your friend! lol

 

Regarding a QDC fitting, you can definitely have the Male end of the QDC on the tee fitting, and the female end on a coil of soft tubing... You could unplug the qdc and just leave the tubing in the basement anyways. Both the QDC and the Ball valve method do the same thing. The only thing the extra money spent on the QDC is going to do for you, is to be able to take the soft "drain" tubing out of the system when you are done with draining it.

 

In regards to not having room inthe basement because of the 4 fans, I can promise you it won't be an issue.... I'm just watching linus' overkill build that he did in the 900d, and he has a 480 rad, and a 240rad, plus fans on both, plus pumps, tubing, and the power supply all in the basement...

 

Fans are relatively thin, so you will have more room when you realise once all of the parts show up

 

glad to see you are taking my advice to heart.

 

Josh

[UmerF]

If you look at my drawing, the tee fitting (the one you linked to is perfectly fine btw) would be the lowest point of the system, so the pump would even need to be on at all for the system to drain. Gravity is your friend! lol

 

Regarding a QDC fitting, you can definitely have the Male end of the QDC on the tee fitting, and the female end on a coil of soft tubing... You could unplug the qdc and just leave the tubing in the basement anyways. Both the QDC and the Ball valve method do the same thing. The only thing the extra money spent on the QDC is going to do for you, is to be able to take the soft "drain" tubing out of the system when you are done with draining it.

 

In regards to not having room inthe basement because of the 4 fans, I can promise you it won't be an issue.... I'm just watching linus' overkill build that he did in the 900d, and he has a 480 rad, and a 240rad, plus fans on both, plus pumps, tubing, and the power supply all in the basement...

 

Fans are relatively thin, so you will have more room when you realise once all of the parts show up

 

glad to see you are taking my advice to heart.

 

Josh

 

That's exactly what I thought but in rare cases let's say some water is stuck somewhere in the rad or something I can always put pressure via pump to let it all out .. it's highly unlikely I'll need that at all if we do the fitting as we designed in the pictures above so it won't be an issue but it's always good to know the option is there if needed.

 

Exactly, so basically it's just extra money for a little bit of cleaner look if I am too OCD about not keeping the extra pipe in the basement otherwise it won't matter so it's just subjective now since both will serve essentially the same purpose and now it's up to me to what I decide.

 

Oh, yeah. I know there's ample space in the basement .. that's not an issue, I can put a baby down there (mind anyone reading this, we're talking about 900D basement) and it won't have any issue but I would have to install the fans in there to see how the case side panels react in the basement to see but like I said before I can always access the basement from top side so it could definitely work without any issue.

 

I got all the items yesterday, no issues whatsoever. 

 

The clear tubing seems to be old and it's not as shiny and looks a bit .. scratchy? I don't know, just doesn't feel new so I'll see about that. Also considering to even just pull the plug directly on arcylic tubing but I guess I'll make do with what I have now first as I can upgrade in future always when selling soft tubing and it's fittings.

 

What are your thoughts on UV dyes? They look awesome and very excited to go towards that, possibly Red UV dye that'd look awesome with overall theme that I might end up with but want to know if there are any disadvantages of cleaning up and what not? I guess if properly done it shouldn't be an issue?

 

And thanks for your input, it's all much appreciated

 

P.S. Fans and some of the other stuff still on it's way from Amazon.

[UmerF]

 

^ this is not how I exactly texted the loop, it's just all things connected to each other sitting there .. but yes, loop has been tested. Pump works, no leaks in any of the equipment. I got another cheap aftermarket pipe to practice my cutting and sizing before using my Koolance pipe as that's in limited quantity available to me.

 

So far, everything seems good. Distilled water on the other hand, I got this stuff:

 

 

Apparently, I've been told it's the "excellent stuff." by the guy who sold me all the equipment. I had some spills while being sloppy to fill the loop and what not .. it was hard to put the reservoir in place etc and later on I felt the water got sticky over time .. is it because of the material used on such as reservoir base or something or something is wrong with the water? I'd hate to know that the water is the sticky kind which it definitely doesn't feel that way when pouring it or filling it .. it's just like water, nothing sticks to you until later like after few hours when you touch let's say the fittings that you had spilled the water on and what not .. feels kinda sticky?

 

Any help on this will be appreciated

[carguy86]

I recently added two EKWB ball valves to my loop, one for draining and one for regulering how much air is being let in whilst draining the loop. (Top valve alows me to regulate sir to avoid splasback/uncontrollably fast draining)

[UmerF]

So, apparently the water shown above is not Pure Distilled Water but the water that's used in drips at the hospital lol. Such as .. glucose water luckily it isn't corrosive so won't be an issue on the other hand .. I ordered 7 bottles of distilled water, 6-liter in each bottle so that's like .. 42 liter of Pure Distilled Water, properly made in their lab and what not so I guess .. I'm good for a while lol.

 

I recently added two EKWB ball valves to my loop, one for draining and one for regulering how much air is being let in whilst draining the loop. (Top valve alows me to regulate sir to avoid splasback/uncontrollably fast draining)

 

What do you mean about that? Can you please elaborate .. I know air shouldn't get in the loop and as much as you can avoid but knowing exactly what you are trying to achieve there will help me build my loop better as well. What do you mean by one valve is being used for regulering? Are you telling me you use the top valve to avoid creating splash in reservoir and what not? I'm sorry but a bit more explanation on this will be highly appreciated if you don't mind and thanks a lot for your input

[RogueCow]

First off, holy mother of god if there is glucose in the system get it out and rinse your system lol.

Can you say blockage?

 

Distilled water and a biocide are going to be your best bet for longevity- No/less gunk in the blocks, won't stain your tubes. Downside is that it's clear, you'd have to get colored tubing..

 

As far as dyes are concerned, I hear mayhem UV dyes are the only way to go. That said, you may still experience some reduced performance and gunk, as well as stained clear tubing. So if you are going to use dyes, plan on replacing your liquid and tubing a year or so down the road

 

 

 

What do you mean about that? Can you please elaborate .. I know air shouldn't get in the loop and as much as you can avoid but knowing exactly what you are trying to achieve there will help me build my loop better as well. What do you mean by one valve is being used for regulering? Are you telling me you use the top valve to avoid creating splash in reservoir and what not? I'm sorry but a bit more explanation on this will be highly appreciated if you don't mind and thanks a lot for your input

 

 

Allow me,

Have you ever had a straw inside a drink, plugged the end of the straw, and pull it out of the drink and notice that the liquid is held within the straw? When you release the end of the straw,

the liquid runs out.

 

This is the exact same principal he used. He has a "vent" ball valve at the top of his loop, most likely running out of the top of the res so it is always air. Then he has a drain ball valve at

the bottom of his loop.

 

When the Vent ball valve is completely closed, assuming a sealed system, he will get no flow out of the drain when the drain ball valve is open. This means he can put his drain hose in the bucket, and control how fast it flows out by turning the vent ball valve (so he doesn't get splashed).

 

FYI, this is why you have to loosen a fitting on your rez, or radiator somewhere in your system before you can drain it... Even with the drain loop, a sealed system won't drain without

an air leak somewhere in the system. He is just regulating that air leak to control how fast it flows. Also a turning ball valve may be easier than loosening a fitting when you need air.

[Philz69]

I dont know if it was proposed in the long paragraphs before this post, but a Y splitter fitting at the bottom of the loop with the quick disconnect will not restrict your flow, let you plug in a tube and drain the loop very quickly and will still look good!

[UmerF]

First off, holy mother of god if there is glucose in the system get it out and rinse your system lol.

Can you say blockage?

 

Distilled water and a biocide are going to be your best bet for longevity- No/less gunk in the blocks, won't stain your tubes. Downside is that it's clear, you'd have to get colored tubing..

 

As far as dyes are concerned, I hear mayhem UV dyes are the only way to go. That said, you may still experience some reduced performance and gunk, as well as stained clear tubing. So if you are going to use dyes, plan on replacing your liquid and tubing a year or so down the road

 

 

 

Allow me,

Have you ever had a straw inside a drink, plugged the end of the straw, and pull it out of the drink and notice that the liquid is held within the straw? When you release the end of the straw,

the liquid runs out.

 

This is the exact same principal he used. He has a "vent" ball valve at the top of his loop, most likely running out of the top of the res so it is always air. Then he has a drain ball valve at

the bottom of his loop.

 

When the Vent ball valve is completely closed, assuming a sealed system, he will get no flow out of the drain when the drain ball valve is open. This means he can put his drain hose in the bucket, and control how fast it flows out by turning the vent ball valve (so he doesn't get splashed).

 

FYI, this is why you have to loosen a fitting on your rez, or radiator somewhere in your system before you can drain it... Even with the drain loop, a sealed system won't drain without

an air leak somewhere in the system. He is just regulating that air leak to control how fast it flows. Also a turning ball valve may be easier than loosening a fitting when you need air.

 

Hahahhahaha, I know man. Luckily ... it didn't cause any blockage or anything because as long as it's all water and not dried up out in the open it's all good but when it dries up .. oh holy moly it becomes that white dried up thing, glucose I'm sure lol. Luckily, it didn't cause any harm .. since water was just sitting in there up until a while ago when I drained all of it out and put in Pure Distilled Water. I got great quality one straight from the lab this time, Distilled water supply you say? I got plenty! 

 

 

Source:

 

Now you can see the ones I've got, which is .. 7 bottles in total with 6 liters in each lol. 42ltrs of Pure Distilled Water. I think .. I'm good for a while

 

As for biocide, I'm not sure where I can get it from but I'll look at it it .. I did order a KillCoil from Amazon and I believe that kills algae or anything for that matter. Is biocide still necessary after putting KillCoil in the loop? I'll definitely put it if I can find it locally otherwise import it if it's necessary.

 

Oh yes baby! Mayhem UV ones are smexy as hell, I love the way the little particles in the water go around in the loop when you turn on the system. It's just so pretty looking! I'm definitely going with those mainly because of it's looks but good to know they're top notch in quality as well. Will most likely get UV ones, obviously with some blacklights installed in the system.

 

--

 

Okay, thank you so much for clarifying that. It makes much more sense now but I want to know if I'm using the pump to drain out all the water .. it'll be creating the air anyway so I really don't need any leak in the system to drain everything out, right? Your/his theory is mainly to drain everything out without a pump .. correct? Please correct me if I'm mistaken. Plus, I'd much rather put a fitting with a plug somewhere on top rather than a ball valve and open the plug whenever I need air specially if I were to put it on top of the reservoir it'll be easy peasy .. I don't really need any fitting or valve for it since I can just simply unplug the top of the res since only one of it being used and not the other three and they're plugged from top.

 

But once again, if I am using pump to drain out the water it shouldn't be an issue really .. correct?

 

Anyways, I'm all ready to put the loop in the system. Got ample amount of distilled water now as well, will order some dyes probably from FrozenCPU directly to my country but I might wait until Jan for that and run the system with pure distilled water for now. I'm waiting on valve to arrive before putting it in my system, I just put in distilled water and re-running any leak test from the equipment or anything and will flush out this distilled water with new one in couple days and keep on doing it until my other stuff gets here in the next 10 days hopefully.

 

I just upgraded from 6600k (temporary processor) to 6700k (permanent, unless something better comes for this chipset) yesterday with H100i and most likely will get a replacement Z170 Deluxe by ASUS in coming days as well, so it's only ideal to put the loop after all that is done.

 

 

... Oh and also got my 2x 32GB G.Skill Trident Z kit to replace my current Single 32GB Kit today. Now I can have total of 64GB G.Skill Trident Z 3000MHz  :wub: 

 

I dont know if it was proposed in the long paragraphs before this post, but a Y splitter fitting at the bottom of the loop with the quick disconnect will not restrict your flow, let you plug in a tube and drain the loop very quickly and will still look good!

 

Yes, it was indeed discussed. We decided I'll use the T fitting at the bottom of the loop and the additional end that T fitting will provide will be connected with quick disconnect for easy and ideal draining loop.

 

Thanks for your input, if you have any more ideas they're most welcome 

[UmerF]

Right now I'm using one of the empty room in my house for testing the loop, here are some pics of how it's done so far. Let me know if you find any mistakes please.

 

EDIT: 

 

Disclaimer: Those tight fittings like the gas pipe ones btw are temporary, since I'm not using the higher quality pipe for testing throughout the loop so I bought this cheap pipe from the market here and using that with tightening plugs to make sure they stay in place with water pressure.

 

Final product will have proper much better looking compression fittings, all chromed up.

Edited December 9, 2015 by UmerF

[RogueCow]

But once again, if I am using pump to drain out the water it shouldn't be an issue really .. correct?

 

 

Not really.

 

If the system is sealed (meaning there is no air leak and the only way for air into the system is back up through the pump output), the pump will pump out the water in the loop and theoretically create negative pressure (vacuum) in the loop. The pump flow will slow down to a point where the pump cannot overcome the vacuum in the loop and will simply stop pumping anything out.

 

Contrary to what you may assume, this would not be the case if the drain was simply opened. Large air bubbles will stop the stream of fluid flowing out, to enter the loop and equalize the loop pressure to atmospheric; much like what happens in a full water or pop bottle when you try to pour it into a cup (say "glug glug glug" out loud and that's the effect i'm getting at lol).

 

I think you are right in that all you need is a plug or cap on your radiator at the top of the loop. AND AS LONG AS YOU ALWAYS REMEMBER TO PLUG IT BACK UP BEFORE YOU FILL THE LOOP AGAIN, that should be perfectly fine, then you can pump or drain the loop as you wish.

[UmerF]

Not really.

 

If the system is sealed (meaning there is no air leak and the only way for air into the system is back up through the pump output), the pump will pump out the water in the loop and theoretically create negative pressure (vacuum) in the loop. The pump flow will slow down to a point where the pump cannot overcome the vacuum in the loop and will simply stop pumping anything out.

 

Contrary to what you may assume, this would not be the case if the drain was simply opened. Large air bubbles will stop the stream of fluid flowing out, to enter the loop and equalize the loop pressure to atmospheric; much like what happens in a full water or pop bottle when you try to pour it into a cup (say "glug glug glug" out loud and that's the effect i'm getting at lol).

 

I think you are right in that all you need is a plug or cap on your radiator at the top of the loop. AND AS LONG AS YOU ALWAYS REMEMBER TO PLUG IT BACK UP BEFORE YOU FILL THE LOOP AGAIN, that should be perfectly fine, then you can pump or drain the loop as you wish.

 

I'd rather do the top of reservoir thing instead of radiator, since my radiator will be facing downwards .. and both are being used with pipes it doesn't have any space left and even if it did .. imagine water slipping out while draining and what not, sounds like a cluster fuck waiting to happen lol.

 

If I can simply open the top of reservoir .. one of it's hole or more than one, I think I should be good that way too right?

[RogueCow]

I'd rather do the top of reservoir thing instead of radiator, since my radiator will be facing downwards .. and both are being used with pipes it doesn't have any space left and even if it did .. imagine water slipping out while draining and what not, sounds like a cluster fuck waiting to happen lol.

 

If I can simply open the top of reservoir .. one of it's hole or more than one, I think I should be good that way too right?

 

Sorry, I misread your first post, thought you said rad (I thought that the rad was on odd place to have an accessible plug lmao...)

 

Yes the reservoir hole would be perfectly fine.

And you wouldn't even have to completely remove the plug, depending on how much air can leak around the threads...

 

I don't think you are going to be using the pump to drain the system much anyways tbh... It will quickly pump down the res, but once it does that it will start sucking air and that's no good.

 

Best to be safe and keep your system completely unplugged when draining anyways. Gravity is your friend

[UmerF]

Sorry, I misread your first post, thought you said rad (I thought that the rad was on odd place to have an accessible plug lmao...)

 

Yes the reservoir hole would be perfectly fine.

And you wouldn't even have to completely remove the plug, depending on how much air can leak around the threads...

 

I don't think you are going to be using the pump to drain the system much anyways tbh... It will quickly pump down the res, but once it does that it will start sucking air and that's no good.

 

Best to be safe and keep your system completely unplugged when draining anyways. Gravity is your friend

 

Lol, yeap. Okay so that's settled. Setup should remain the same and while draining simply open one of the plug on top of reservoir and I'll be good.

 

One thing, can you look at the pictures I shared of my test loop? If you look at the reservoir, you'll see it has that moist and a lot of bubbles formed up in there... any idea how to get rid of that? and if that'll affect the cooling? I heard that bubbles shouldn't be in the loop such as pipes and all so would like to get it cleared.

 

Thanks a lot for your input in everything, man. It's really been helpful!

[RogueCow]

Those are fairly large bubbles, and they will unstick themselves and work themselves out of the water in time. You want to be worried about Pockets. So if you see that there is an air pocket in your cpu block, that will drastically, if not completely, inhibit the cooling performance of your loop.

 

Just make sure that your pump intake, and your return are on opposite sides of the reservoir seperator (should have like a little plexiglass plate in the middle). This makes sure that air coming from the system doesnt get sucked into the pump. A brimmed reservoir is also a good thing as well.

 

Are you able to fully assemble your loop outside the case, then drop it in without undoing anything? Didn't catch if you said that was your plan...

If so, you could bleed all the air out of the system when the radiator and cpu block are easy to move and rotate, and that would save you having to rotate the entire case to clear the air out of the system.

 

Lookin good though

[UmerF]

Those are fairly large bubbles, and they will unstick themselves and work themselves out of the water in time. You want to be worried about Pockets. So if you see that there is an air pocket in your cpu block, that will drastically, if not completely, inhibit the cooling performance of your loop.

 

Just make sure that your pump intake, and your return are on opposite sides of the reservoir seperator (should have like a little plexiglass plate in the middle). This makes sure that air coming from the system doesnt get sucked into the pump. A brimmed reservoir is also a good thing as well.

 

Are you able to fully assemble your loop outside the case, then drop it in without undoing anything? Didn't catch if you said that was your plan...

If so, you could bleed all the air out of the system when the radiator and cpu block are easy to move and rotate, and that would save you having to rotate the entire case to clear the air out of the system.

 

Lookin good though

 

So, I needn't worry about the bubbles and steam type thing in the reservoir top that stays empty after the pump is turned on but becomes full again when pump is turned off? Any idea why that steam thing could be being built up or is that normal?

 

Sorry, I don't get the air pocket part properly. Do you mean something like this: http://footage.framepool.com/shotimg/481488410-ascending-rising-air-pocket-bubble-water-liquid-no-people.jpg ? If so, I don't see any of that in the loop anywhere, only when I turned off the pump I could see those type of pockets going up in rad or down in reservoir it was hard to tell since I used super tiny pipe to connect them both in test loop but otherwise I never saw any of that going through any pipe or reservoir or anything. CPU block is not crystal clear but plexi top, from what I could tell I didn't see anything like that there either.

 

Yes, I could do that but I never meant to do that. I'll put the loop in first and then fill it up .. that'd be most ideal IMHO rather than putting everything the other way. I mean .. like we discussed before, moving around this monster case that we call 900D is next to impossible and is not an option so we really need solutions that require no moving or tilting the case in any way for easiest loop and maintenance if possible?

 

Can you please explain bleeding out the air process? Is it same as draining the whole liquid in the loop by using valve or something? Sorry for asking this but I don't get it thoroughly so better to ask now than to make a mistake and regret later

 

P.S. I can see in some of Jayz's builds that those tiny bubbles do form up that you said will work their way out so I'm really not worried about them anymore but I am worried about that moist on top of the reservoir and why it's being formed up so your input on that will definitely be appreciated

[RogueCow]

First off, to explain an air pocket.

If you look closely, you will see portions in the block where there is air insteak of liquid. Air in you block will hugely impact heat transfer, and can even affect flow. It will do the same in your radiator; if the liquid does not come in contact with the fins directly because there are large portions of air (not small bubbles, think about half the radiator filled with air instead of liquid to understand it).

 

Getting air out of your system is definitely a different process

If you watch most "how to build a loop" videos, either by jayz or LTT, you will notice that they pick the system up and rotate it around.

 

This is Exagerated, since the flow will "drag" air through the system and only need the system leaned around, but this is a way to think about getting air through the system.

 

The red dots represent air pockets, the red arrows represent how the case is being rotated.

 

Note that the air starts in the radiator (where it is killing heat transfer), and ends up in the reservoir, where air is supposed to be.

 

 

You have to rotate/lean the case around because air only goes up, and will get stuck in the highest point of the system, unless the flow forces it out (somewhat difficult in the radiator since the cross sectional area is large).

 

So if you can build the loop inside the case, then take the loop out, fill it, flip it around and such (making sure everything is sealed up and plugged), that may be the best way to bleed the system of air.

Or you can build it and lean the case around a bit while the pump is on and you'll probably be fine

 

 

I go into these long explainations, and end up determining i'm probably over explaining everything (i'm an engineer, it's in my blood )

 

Hopefully that clears some things up

 

[UmerF]

First off, to explain an air pocket.

900x900px-LL-4efce319_rXGltW0.jpeg

If you look closely, you will see portions in the block where there is air insteak of liquid. Air in you block will hugely impact heat transfer, and can even affect flow. It will do the same in your radiator; if the liquid does not come in contact with the fins directly because there are large portions of air (not small bubbles, think about half the radiator filled with air instead of liquid to understand it).

 

Getting air out of your system is definitely a different process

If you watch most "how to build a loop" videos, either by jayz or LTT, you will notice that they pick the system up and rotate it around.

 

This is Exagerated, since the flow will "drag" air through the system and only need the system leaned around, but this is a way to think about getting air through the system.

 

The red dots represent air pockets, the red arrows represent how the case is being rotated.

 

Note that the air starts in the radiator (where it is killing heat transfer), and ends up in the reservoir, where air is supposed to be.

 

Air Ridding Process.jpg

 

You have to rotate/lean the case around because air only goes up, and will get stuck in the highest point of the system, unless the flow forces it out (somewhat difficult in the radiator since the cross sectional area is large).

 

So if you can build the loop inside the case, then take the loop out, fill it, flip it around and such (making sure everything is sealed up and plugged), that may be the best way to bleed the system of air.

Or you can build it and lean the case around a bit while the pump is on and you'll probably be fine

 

 

I go into these long explainations, and end up determining i'm probably over explaining everything (i'm an engineer, it's in my blood )

 

Hopefully that clears some things up

 

Man, fuck .. rotating around the freaking monster 900D is seriously out of the question lol. With that said, wow .. thanks a lot for explaining it in details with those diagrams man, it's much appreciated. 

 

Two things, if it is a must to move the loop around then I'll definitely build it inside the system, and then put it in there. Will require extra pair of hands to avoid any issues but should be doable specially with soft tubing. However please keep in mind that my piping won't be as it is showed in the diagram. Both pipes will either come down from left or right and my reservoir will be connected from the top once and then from the bottom once, only two pipes on reservoir covering top and bottom both.

 

So the goal is to take out all the air pockets in the reservoir and it should be fine? As for that moist thing, I noticed it's norm when your reservoir isn't full so I'm not worried anymore about that. I just checked my test loop and I didn't see any of the bubbles like that in the block luckily but I don't have color die and it's all clear so hopefully I didn't miss it specially since the plexi top is cloudy and not crystal clear on the CPU block.

 

Please don't be sorry for going into total details about these things, it's definitely helping a lot and I'm sure others will be able to benefit from it just the same. It's very much appreciated!

[RogueCow]

So the goal is to take out all the air pockets in the reservoir and it should be fine? As for that moist thing, I noticed it's norm when your reservoir isn't full so I'm not worried anymore about that. I just checked my test loop and I didn't see any of the bubbles like that in the block luckily but I don't have color die and it's all clear so hopefully I didn't miss it specially since the plexi top is cloudy and not crystal clear on the CPU block.

 

The reservoir is really the only place where air could/should exist in your system. Your goal is to get all of the air out of the CPU block and Raidator.

 

IMO, building the loop inside the pc the way you want it, then removing it to shake it all around and get 100% of the air out is the most thorough way of doing it,

but you could also get away with building the loop inside the case, then just leaning the case around (probably no more than 45 degrees) while the loop is running would be okay to get most/all of the air out of the loop and into the res.

 

It's your call man, you are pretty much at the point where your loop is going to work great no matter what you do; now it's just a matter of being a perfectionist or not lol

[UmerF]

The reservoir is really the only place where air could/should exist in your system. Your goal is to get all of the air out of the CPU block and Raidator.

 

IMO, building the loop inside the pc the way you want it, then removing it to shake it all around and get 100% of the air out is the most thorough way of doing it,

but you could also get away with building the loop inside the case, then just leaning the case around (probably no more than 45 degrees) while the loop is running would be okay to get most/all of the air out of the loop and into the res.

 

It's your call man, you are pretty much at the point where your loop is going to work great no matter what you do; now it's just a matter of being a perfectionist or not lol

 

Hahaha, I know man. I think I will definitely do that because tilting the case might not be ideal but we'll see how that goes.

 

I totally am a perfectionist thus taking this long to complete a project so I don't do anything wrong. Oh and .. waiting for my stuff from Amazon to arrive which should be this week now hopefully otherwise Monday/Tuesday next week I think. As soon as I get all that, I'll be putting the loop in the system for sure, for now will try to drain the system and see how that goes.

 

Thanks a ton for all your input man, will report back with an update when I get my stuff ... or if anything goes wrong with draining without valve and what not lol.

[RogueCow]

Hahaha, I know man. I think I will definitely do that because tilting the case might not be ideal but we'll see how that goes.

 

I totally am a perfectionist thus taking this long to complete a project so I don't do anything wrong. Oh and .. waiting for my stuff from Amazon to arrive which should be this week now hopefully otherwise Monday/Tuesday next week I think. As soon as I get all that, I'll be putting the loop in the system for sure, for now will try to drain the system and see how that goes.

 

Thanks a ton for all your input man, will report back with an update when I get my stuff ... or if anything goes wrong with draining without valve and what not lol.

 

Sounds good. Good Luck and Have Fun