Advice on Camera Gear

[scottyseng]

Well, right now I have:

 

Canon EOS-M

Canon EF-M 22 f/2 STM

Canon EF-M 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM

Canon EF-M to EF adapter

Canon EF 50 f/1.8 STM

Broken Speedlite 90EX (I dropped my camera by accident...the hotshoe base of the 90EX is cracked...it still fires correctly only if I push the flash down on the hotshoe).

 

What I plan to buy:

Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM

Canon EF-M 11-22 f4-5.6 IS STM (Or maybe the EF-S 10-18 f/4.5-5.6 IS STM)

Canon EF 35 f/2 IS USM

Canon Speedlite 430EX III RT

Sennheiser MKE 600

 

Probably in the far distant future:

Canon 7D Mark II

 

and maybe some cheap used lenses for kicks like:

Canon EF 24-85 f/3.5-4.5 USM ($88 used on ebay at the moment)

Canon EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 III USM ($89 refurbished at Canon at the moment).

 

Is there any other lenses I should consider? I probably will buy the  flash first because not having one sucks quite a lot. Next up would be the EF-S 17-55, but I hear rumors that a new version of it might be coming out in 2016. 

 

I'm just a hobbyist photographer that photographs interiors of construction sites and takes family photos, so telephoto isn't such a big deal for me. The EF 50 f/1.8 is very nice, but I can't really use it too much in the confined spaces I usually am at family parties (I usually have to stand 4-5 feet back to frame what I want, which isn't a option some of the time). I don't see myself getting full frame cameras anytime soon as I'm still a college student working out college debts. I don't think I can afford any L lenses so I'm sticking to standard lenses for now (Except maybe the 24-70 f/4L...though that lens is kind of old now).

[ALwin]

All I can say for now is that you seem to have picked some lenses that cover the same focal lengths, and that you might end up not using some of the lenses at all.

 

The flash unit and the microphone, definitely good accessories to have.  Have you considered the cheaper RODE NTG2 over the Sennheiser MKE600?  Keep in mind the pre-amps in the camera is not really that good, a MKE 600 or even a RODE NTG-2/3 are better paired with an external recorder like a Zoom H1, H4n, Tascam, etc. which have better pre-amps.

 

For the flash unit, look into a Yongnuo flash, you might get something slightly better for a lower price.  Yongnuo might not be a "Canon" brand, but it is popular with many photographers.

 

I think personally I would hold off on getting a 35mm f/2 lens if I were getting a 17-55 f/2.8 or vice versa.

 

For an ultra wide angle, also consider a Tokina 11-20 lens for Canon, but I guess you are getting the 11-22 IS STM also for video, as an STM lens has a better AF motor for video.  Here it doesn't really matter, just get what you want.  As you require, for shooting in confined spaces (e.g. a small living room) I go with using wider angle lenses and do some distortion correction in post.

 

If you plan to upgrade to a 7DmkII in the future, perhaps consider not investing too much into EF-M lenses.

[scottyseng]

-snip-

 

Yeah, I was worried about that. I think I'll buy the 17-55 and see if I actually need the prime or other zooms.

 

Oh, I was just getting the MKE600 because I love Sennheiser stuff. I'll keep a good preamp in mind though. I'm only really using the mic for the family video or some presentations in college. Also, the MKE600 takes a battery...does that mean it still needs a preamp?

 

Yeah, I've also heard very good things about the Yongnuo. I'll look into it. Definitely going to buy a flash with a metal hotshoe for sure though.

 

Ah, I'll probably get the EOS-M M4 when it comes out. I like how tiny the EOS-M cameras are for just taking around with me. Yeah, I know the Sonys will kill it in every way...I plan on staying with Canon though. Their products have lasted for me.

 

Thanks for the help.

[ALwin]

snip

 

The battery is to power the microphone, the NTG2 also takes an AA battery if the camera or connected preamp cannot provide phantom power. Preamps are for reducing noise, interference and getting better quality audio amplification.  It helps your mic capture the best audio possible.

 

Preamps explained

http://www.ovnilab.com/articles/preamp.shtml

 

Yes you can attach the MKE 600 or a NTG2 via a XLR - Minijack cable to your camera, but for that you might as well get something like a cheaper RODE Videomic or something.  With a shotgun like the MKE600 directly connected to the camera you are not using the mic to its full potential, especially with a camera like a Canon M.  Even more expensive photo cameras like a Canon 5D series or Nikon D4 series' preamps are not as good as the ones found in a good external audio recorder.

 

I'm a Nikonian when it comes to photo cameras, I don't need to jump onto the Sony mirrorless bandwagon.

[scottyseng]

-snip-

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm pretty new to camera audio. I'll look into a good preamp for it then. Yeah, I really was just planning on just plugging the mic into the camera with a XLR to 3.5mm jack. If I were to get the MKE600, what's a good preamp to pair with it? Will also think abou the RODE videomic.

[ALwin]

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm pretty new to camera audio. I'll look into a good preamp for it then. Yeah, I really was just planning on just plugging the mic into the camera with a XLR to 3.5mm jack. If I were to get the MKE600, what's a good preamp to pair with it? Will also think abou the RODE videomic.

 

Depending on your budget, something like a Tascam DR-60D.  I recommend this as the basic choice, as the controls on it are better than on something like the Zoom H1.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1084690-REG/tascam_dr_60mkii_portable_recorder_for_dslr.html

 

What I would do with the DR-60, and I own the mark 1 version, is connect the mic to the recorder, and use a 3.5mm jack cable to connect the recorder line-out to the camera microphone port.  I record the audio both on the DR-60's memory card and also send the audio to be recorded in-camera so that it makes it easier to synchronize audio in post.  Then I discard the audio from the camera's side.

 

 

Or a DR-70D

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086798-REG/tascam_dr_70d_4_channel_audio_recording.html

 

Even something like a Zoom H1 record can be better than an in-camera preamp (of course this depends on the camera, my video camera comes with a great preamp that I don't need an external one unless I want to connect more than 2 microphones)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/699403-REG/Zoom_H1_H1_Ultra_Portable_Digital_Audio.html

 

Other recorders you can use, Zoom H4n, H5, Tascam DR 100mkII, DR40, DR05, etc.

 

But personally I prefer using XLR as the interface, I prefer keeping the use of 3.5/minijack to minimum.

[scottyseng]

-snip-

 

Yeah, I like XLR as a interface as well, but XLR stuff doesn't come cheap. I'll think about the preamps. I might just buy the mic and test it out to see how good or bad it is without the preamp or get the RODE. I just know anything is better than the inbuilt camera mic (Man, I recorded one family video last Christmas with the inbuilt EOS M stereo mic...geez that was horrible to hear).

 

Thanks for the help.

[ALwin]

Yeah, I like XLR as a interface as well, but XLR stuff doesn't come cheap. I'll think about the preamps. I might just buy the mic and test it out to see how good or bad it is without the preamp or get the RODE. I just know anything is better than the inbuilt camera mic (Man, I recorded one family video last Christmas with the inbuilt EOS M stereo mic...geez that was horrible to hear).

 

Thanks for the help.

 

You could even use a recorder like the Zoom H1 without a mic like the MKE600.  The H1 has some pretty good microphones built in, and you can even use it stand alone without the camera if you want to record, for example, a classroom lecture.  For video, record the primary audio with the H1, use the bad in-camera mics to record a scratch track to be used to assist in syncing the better quality audio recorded by the H1 to the video, and discard the audio track recorded by the camera once you're finished.

[scottyseng]

-snip-

 

I'll have to think more on the audio then. That does sounds very tempting for the H1.

[ShadowCaptain]

I'll have to think more on the audio then. That does sounds very tempting for the H1.

 

or get the zoom h5, it has XLR inputs, can be used as a PC audio interface, and has mic attachments, stereo xy mics, side address mic and shotgun mic capsules you can snap on

 

or use it as a top notch field recorder

[ALwin]

or get the zoom h5, it has XLR inputs, can be used as a PC audio interface, and has mic attachments, stereo xy mics, side address mic and shotgun mic capsules you can snap on

or use it as a top notch field recorder

While we keep recommending various good methods for recording good audio, one thing I've realized we may have omitted in advising is how to monitor to ensure good clean audio is being recorded.

Whether inputing the audio from an external mic/recorder into the camera, or recording with an external audio capture device, DO NOT just assume that it's recording clean audio. Always use a headset to monitor the audio. I don't have a one-setting-for-all audio capture setting on my devices. Before every shoot, I always as my subjects to "speak into the microphone" to monitor the quality of the sound that will be recorded and during the entire time I am filming (e.g. interviews) I am monitoring the audio constantly both through monitoring headsets and keeping an eye on the graphic equalizer.

For anyone recording audio or video+audio, I recommend keeping a set of these (or similar) in your kit bag:

• You want clear flat, non-enhanced headphones or earphones. Avoid ones that have been designed to enhance bass or other "music/audiophile" features, especially "surround" headsets.
• If you want to monitor surround sound recording, use a proper surround sound speaker setup in an enclosed room.
• Something like the Sony MDR 7506 Studio Monitors or the Sennheiser PX 100 II, or similar products.
• They're not expensive and they produce clean flat audio for easy monitoring.

 

 

EDIT: Continuing on, as I was in a rush earlier...

 

Don't just rely on the graphic equalizer of your recorder or camera's LCD screen to show you if you are getting a loud enough sound.  The recorder/camera is only monitoring the electrical signal in the wires, not what kind of sound is being recorded.  That's why a monitoring headset is important, so that you know that you are picking up loud enough audio from the target source and not loud background noises.

 

Secondly, always record a few minutes worth of scratch audio.  For example, you're going to be recording someone talking or playing an instrument somewhere, go to the location early, record a few minutes worth of ambient noise (I assure you that the sensitivity of the microphone may pick up some noises your ears may not hear) before the speaker or musician or who or whatever you are trying to record starts.  In post you can use the "ambient" noise profile of the location to reduce ambient/unwanted noise that may have been recorded during the actual performance you need.

[ShadowCaptain]

SNIP

 

Well said, I also like to use recorders that have a safety track, that means it also records a second quieter audio track meaning if you balls up and your audio is clipping or is set too high, you can use the quieter track and gain it up to where you need it -

 

Its a great feature to look out for and can be a life saver ! (obviously its not something to rely on but GREAT to have)

[scottyseng]

-snip-

 

That's some great advice, though how do I do that as a one man crew? Sometimes I have to just leave my camera on a tripod and let it record on its own, how do I monitor it then?

 

I'm probably leaning towards the DR-70D now though, since I like the functionality it has and it's not too large to put on the bottom of the camera.

 

Well, I'm learning a lot about camera audio thanks to this. I'm good with PC audio but still new to camera / video audio.

[ALwin]

That's some great advice, though how do I do that as a one man crew? Sometimes I have to just leave my camera on a tripod and let it record on its own, how do I monitor it then?

 

I'm probably leaning towards the DR-70D now though, since I like the functionality it has and it's not too large to put on the bottom of the camera.

 

Well, I'm learning a lot about camera audio thanks to this. I'm good with PC audio but still new to camera / video audio.

 

Well, that's why I said do a sound check before you record.  The MDR 7506 comes with a long cable or have someone stand in position and do some talking.  Once you start recording, it's not really essential to keep monitoring if you are working solo.