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PC NOOB NEEDS HELP

willsquizzle
By willsquizzle
in Troubleshooting
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You can check your bios version by going to System Information. Then it's under 'System Summary'

 

Check it against your motherboard on here to see if you have the latest version http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4717#bios  (Although I'm imaging that you should already have the latest version)

 

How long have you had your pc? If it's relatively new and you're having problems like this, you might be better just returning it either way. If it's going wrong after not having it long, then chances are that it could have further underlying problems. If you can update your bios and that fixes it then it could just be a driver issues. However, there could be a hardware component that is faulty.

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You can check your bios version by going to System Information. Then it's under 'System Summary'

Check it against your motherboard on here to see if you have the latest version http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4717#bios (Although I'm imaging that you should already have the latest version)

How long have you had your pc? If it's relatively new and you're having problems like this, you might be better just returning it either way. If it's going wrong after not having it long, then chances are that it could have further underlying problems. If you can update your bios and that fixes it then it could just be a driver issues. However, there could be a hardware component that is faulty.

i tried updating my driver with the link tsuki sent me but it says that its not compatable with my version of windows

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formatted my drive and re downloaded absolutely everything did the bios update and every single other update i could find and i still got the error. i guess its not the drivers

The event 41 error? Does it still reboot and/or freeze?

Edit// Have you read this page?

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2028504

It might look like a lot, but it's worth reading top to bottom.

I found it by googling "windows event 41" and it suggested the phrase "windows event id 41" which lead me to that page.

Unless I'm missing facts, or misunderstanding them, it would seem you have a hardware issue. Isolation is easier.. If you have spare parts. Any parts that are compatible. They don't need to be identical. And isolating the video card is easy. (Remove it)

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The event 41 error? Does it still reboot and/or freeze?

Edit// Have you read this page?

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2028504

It might look like a lot, but it's worth reading top to bottom.

I found it by googling "windows event 41" and it suggested the phrase "windows event id 41" which lead me to that page.

Unless I'm missing facts, or misunderstanding them, it would seem you have a hardware issue. Isolation is easier.. If you have spare parts. Any parts that are compatible. They don't need to be identical. And isolating the video card is easy. (Remove it)

i read the entire thing. mine is scenario 2 were the bugerror thing lists as 0 which it then gives me 5 options of what it could be

-power supply

-overclocking

-ram

-overheating

-resetting the system back to defaults

-is my power supply efficient for my components? does someone mind telling me.

-i havent overclocked anything

-memtest says my ram has no errors

-havent tried the defaults but my computer is brand new i doubt anythings changed.

-over heating i know how to check my current cpu temp but can anyone tell me how to check my temps at the time of the systems crash? need help with that i dont know how to do it.

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http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/46250-63-random-restarts-critical-kernel-power-event-task   this seems to be very informational and a lot of them are having the same problem as me where the bugcodeerror is at 0. how do i check my psu? i have a CX600 corsair powersupply 80plus bronze certified the rest of my specs are listed in a previous comment -- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028&cm_re=600w_power_supply-_-17-139-028-_-Product

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@willsquizzle I think you're confused by the wall of text on that page. Scenario 3 has the 5 options/possibilities.  Scenario 2 is basically saying that if you're holding the power button down to turn off your computer, a ) stop doing that, b ) find out why you have to hold down the power button.  

 

So if you're not holding down the power button, it's not scenario 2.  

 

But otherwise, if you meant to say that you're dealing with scenario 3, based on what I've read from you, I'd agree. To test your power supply, you could 1) find another power supply to put in your computer,  or 2) put your power supply in another computer. 

 

However, it seems that (again, based on what you've said, not what I've deduced) that you've eliminated most of the 5 options.  Observe my bold text:

 

1. Overclocking: Disable overclocking to see whether the issue occurs when the system is run at the correct speed. This would be simple for you to disable if you're OC'ing.

2. Check the memory: Verify the memory by using a memory checker. Verify that each memory chip is the same speed and that it is configured correctly in the system. You said you've already ran a memory test. If you're doubtful, try Memtest86.

3. Power supply: Make sure that the power supply has enough wattage to appropriately handle the installed devices. If you added memory, installed a newer processor, installed additional drives, or added external devices, such devices can require more energy than the current power supply can provide consistently.
4. Overheating: Check whether the system is overheating by examining the internal temperature of the hardware. Use the program called Open Hardware Monitor to check temperatures. (click here)
5. Defaults: Reset the system back to the system defaults to see whether the issues occur when the system is running in its default configuration. You said you have done this as well.
 
So, all things being equal, and following Microsoft's troubleshooting guide it would seem that your PSU is at fault.   Verify before taking my word for it. 
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@willsquizzle I think you're confused by the wall of text on that page. Scenario 3 has the 5 options/possibilities. Scenario 2 is basically saying that if you're holding the power button down to turn off your computer, a ) stop doing that, b ) find out why you have to hold down the power button.

So if you're not holding down the power button, it's not scenario 2.

But otherwise, if you meant to say that you're dealing with scenario 3, based on what I've read from you, I'd agree. To test your power supply, you could 1) find another power supply to put in your computer, or 2) put your power supply in another computer.

However, it seems that (again, based on what you've said, not what I've deduced) that you've eliminated most of the 5 options. Observe my bold text:

1. Overclocking: Disable overclocking to see whether the issue occurs when the system is run at the correct speed. This would be simple for you to disable if you're OC'ing.

2. Check the memory: Verify the memory by using a memory checker. Verify that each memory chip is the same speed and that it is configured correctly in the system. You said you've already ran a memory test. If you're doubtful, try Memtest86.

3. Power supply: Make sure that the power supply has enough wattage to appropriately handle the installed devices. If you added memory, installed a newer processor, installed additional drives, or added external devices, such devices can require more energy than the current power supply can provide consistently.

4. Overheating: Check whether the system is overheating by examining the internal temperature of the hardware. Use the program called Open Hardware Monitor to check temperatures. (click here)

5. Defaults: Reset the system back to the system defaults to see whether the issues occur when the system is running in its default configuration. You said you have done this as well.

So, all things being equal, and following Microsoft's troubleshooting guide it would seem that your PSU is at fault. Verify before taking my word for it.

yes i meant to say scenario 3 my fault. i ram memtest86 already and no errors so let me try the temp monitoring thing u gave me. as for the psu i dont have another psu or another computer to try it in is there any other option?

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yes i meant to say scenario 3 my fault. i ram memtest86 already and no errors so let me try the temp monitoring thing u gave me. as for the psu i dont have another psu or another computer to try it in is there any other option?

Well... no..  if you need to test a power supply, there are only certain ways to do it.  There's no magic to it. 

 

It can be tested to find out if it will turn on (there are pins that can be shorted) but that won't help because you already know your computer turns on. 

 

Maybe @Corsair Joseph can glance through the thread and give you his opinion. 

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watts suggested that you download Open Hardware to find out where your temps are including CPU temp. Extremely high CPU temp can definitely cause your system to shut down. It's probably a good idea to find out what your ambient temp is, that way you know what to expect where your idle CPU temp should be.

 

As for the PSU, paper clip test won't do us any good, because like what watts said, we already know that your system turns on. But I would suggest that you check the voltages on each rail of your PSU. Ideally, you'd want to use a Digital Multi-meter to measure the voltages, as it is the most accurate way to gauge them. But for now, BIOS reading will do, just to see if your voltages are within ATX specs and not way off. You can go into your BIOS and look for PC health monitoring option or similar option and check voltage readings and see if they are within 5% of the labeled voltage. Tolerance for +12V would be 11.4V to 12.6V, +5V would be 4.75V to 5.25V, and +3.3V would be +3.13V to +3.46V. 

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I can't stop myself blaming the PSU (Sorry Mr. Industry Affiliate)

 

No need to apologize, it does happen in this industry. If its really the PSU, then it is the PSU, nothing can change that. But its best to approach it with a proper troubleshooting like isolating one hardware at the time. Until we have definitive data that's pointing out to the root cause, it could be anything. 

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You can go into your BIOS and look for PC health monitoring option or similar option and check voltage readings and see if they are within 5% of the labeled voltage. Tolerance for +12V would be 11.4V to 12.6V, +5V would be 4.75V to 5.25V, and +3.3V would be +3.13V to +3.46V. 

I hadn't thought of that.  Good tip. 

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it wont let me post pictures sadly but here is exactly how a picture i took of the hardware monitoring thing right when it crashed

value. max

bus speed. 201mhz. 201mhz

core 1. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 2. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 3 4220mhz. 4220mhz

core 4. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

core 5. 1407mhz. 3918mhz

core 6. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

temp. 21.9celcius. 45.6celcius

cpu total. 7.2% 54.1%

core 1 1.5% 100%

core 2. 4.6% 100%

core 3. 12.3% 55.4%

core 4. 16.9% 87.7%

core 5. 4.6% 83.1%

core 6 3.1% 44.6%

memory load 36.4% 38.1%

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it wont let me post pictures sadly but here is exactly how a picture i took of the hardware monitoring thing right when it crashed

value. max

bus speed. 201mhz. 201mhz

core 1. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 2. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 3 4220mhz. 4220mhz

core 4. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

core 5. 1407mhz. 3918mhz

core 6. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

temp. 21.9celcius. 45.6celcius

cpu total. 7.2% 54.1%

core 1 1.5% 100%

core 2. 4.6% 100%

core 3. 12.3% 55.4%

core 4. 16.9% 87.7%

core 5. 4.6% 83.1%

core 6 3.1% 44.6%

memory load 36.4% 38.1%

Do what Corsair Joseph said at the bottom of the last page about checking your voltage readings in the BIOS.  Maybe let it sit for several/many/a lot of minutes with the BIOS loaded, too. 

 

Also, I'm simply curious: What exactly were you doing with the computer when it "crashed"?  In the middle of a game?  Launching a game? On Windows desktop moving the mouse? etc.  

And when you say "crash," you mean that it completely froze, right? 

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As for the PSU, paper clip test won't do us any good, because like what watts said, we already know that your system turns on. But I would suggest that you check the voltages on each rail of your PSU. Ideally, you'd want to use a Digital Multi-meter to measure the voltages, as it is the most accurate way to gauge them. But for now, BIOS reading will do, just to see if your voltages are within ATX specs and not way off. You can go into your BIOS and look for PC health monitoring option or similar option and check voltage readings and see if they are within 5% of the labeled voltage. Tolerance for +12V would be 11.4V to 12.6V, +5V would be 4.75V to 5.25V, and +3.3V would be +3.13V to +3.46V.

all 3 of the numbers are spot on

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it wont let me post pictures sadly but here is exactly how a picture i took of the hardware monitoring thing right when it crashed

value. max

bus speed. 201mhz. 201mhz

core 1. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 2. 3918mhz. 4220mhz

core 3 4220mhz. 4220mhz

core 4. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

core 5. 1407mhz. 3918mhz

core 6. 1407mhz. 4220mhz

temp. 21.9celcius. 45.6celcius

cpu total. 7.2% 54.1%

core 1 1.5% 100%

core 2. 4.6% 100%

core 3. 12.3% 55.4%

core 4. 16.9% 87.7%

core 5. 4.6% 83.1%

core 6 3.1% 44.6%

memory load 36.4% 38.1%

Imo that doesn't look right at idle...

USEFUL LINKS:

PSU Tier List | F@H stats

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Do what Corsair Joseph said at the bottom of the last page about checking your voltage readings in the BIOS. Maybe let it sit for several/many/a lot of minutes with the BIOS loaded, too.

Also, I'm simply curious: What exactly were you doing with the computer when it "crashed"? In the middle of a game? Launching a game? On Windows desktop moving the mouse? etc.

And when you say "crash," you mean that it completely froze, right?

yes it either freezes, where nothing happens and i cant do anything

or, it freezes where the screen goes fuzzy like a tv on the wrong imput

or, instead of making me have to hit the reboot button it just reboots the whole pc for me

it happens usually wen i download large files or if im playing a game or something the pc is very new so thats like the only 2 instances i can see a pattern in

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i know this probably has absolutelt nothing to do with anything but going back to the drivers i have 24 windows updates and when i try to do them it says its downloading 18 and wen its done they never actually downloaded and it wants me to do it again and it just keeps repeating maybe one of the updates is a driver update? i have no idea im just trying to throw out any more info that i can

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