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Original Xbox will not turn on

flibberdipper

My stepdad just bought a couple original Xboxes for a pretty good price, and apparently both of them worked, but one just doesn't turn on. Pressing the power button results in absolutely nothing other than the button clicking. I would really like it if someone could help me out, since this would mean that I can't get an Xbox out of the deal, which I would REALLY like.

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VAULT - File Server

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Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

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Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

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Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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Open'er up, check the power supply, start checking voltages across the output pins. Should be 12v, 5v, and I think 3.3v.

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Open'er up, check the power supply, start checking voltages across the output pins. Should be 12v, 5v, and I think 3.3v.

I do think it might be the power supply. I hear that high pitch sound that indicates shit is dying (almost like a pew, I guess, when I unplug it).

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

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Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

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Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

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Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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My stepdad just bought a couple original Xboxes for a pretty good price, and apparently both of them worked, but one just doesn't turn on. Pressing the power button results in absolutely nothing other than the button clicking. I would really like it if someone could help me out, since this would mean that I can't get an Xbox out of the deal, which I would REALLY like.

If it's been thrown around a lot the mechanism that the power button is attached to may not be correctly hooked up any more. Try canoodling with that.

|PSU Tier List /80 Plus Efficiency| PSU stuff if you need it. 

My system: PCPartPicker || For Corsair support tag @Corsair Josephor @Corsair Nick || My 5MT Legacy GT Wagon ||

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I do think it might be the power supply. I hear that high pitch sound that indicates shit is dying (almost like a pew, I guess, when I unplug it).

I seem to recall that's normal on the original, heck my PSU in my rig does that when you shut it down :P

 

Just check all the cables make sure it's all plugged in, also short across the solder points on the power button, just to rule out a possibly faulty button.

Gaming/Folding rig: Coolermaster CM 690 II Advanced White | MSI Z77A-G43 | Intel Core i7 3770k @ 4.4GHz | 10GB G.Skill RAM | Nvidia GeForce GTX 780 | Samsung 840 Pro 128GB | Seagate 2TB | Seagate 2TB | WD Blue 640GB | Cogage Arrow (Passive) | Thermaltake Toughpower XT 675w | Windows 10 Pro

 

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get your money back.

Gpu: MSI 4G GTX 970 | Cpu: i5 4690k @4.6Ghz 1.23v | Cpu Cooler: Cryorig r1 ultimate | Ram: 1600mhz 2x8Gb corsair vengeance | Storage: sandisk ultra ii 128gb (os) 1TB WD Green | Psu: evga supernova g1 650watt | Case: fractal define s windowed |

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The PCB must be clean, the cables well attached. You could check the power in the circuits with a multimeter.

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It's dead caps. The ones that like to leak. :/

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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Yeah the Original Xbox was notorious for that. When I was in MN I used to re-cap them all the time. There was a Mod Shop there too called the Llama that I used to get the parts from when I would mod them. 

See I'm a 21st century digital boy,
I don't know how to live but I've got a lot of toys. 

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