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Corrosion Help?

Nickzoom
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 The thing I really wanna know is whether to go full copper in a loop?

This is saying there's no real practical matter of doing so, since even with full copper, the fluid should be changed periodically due to fluid turning conductive(potential frying components if leaked).

Nickel and copper should work pretty well.

EK had bad(thin and unsolid??) nickel plating which for some reason happened to be oxidized(corroded), then affecting the block.

So what's the real cost of this if it's not galvanic?  Their problem seems to be resolved already...

If you have the budget to go full copper i would. copper will disapate heat better than nickle. and much better than aluminium

 

if the inside has thin galvanization or is inproperly galvinized it won't make any difference, they might as well not galvinize it at all. the bare portions of the aluminum will react and corrode underneath the nickle plate causing large porous flakes to get caught in your loop.

 

Okok so to conclude if I have a Ek copper water block, with a gpu water block that is Copper and the inside of my MB (Maximus Formula VI) is aluminum (anodized). Would that all work with a copper radiator and mayhams White with anticorrosion?

  Thanks

yes. it will work.

again, just use premix and it will last longer and be safer.

Posted

Am I going to have any corrosion issues? I know my motherboard (Maximus Formula Vi has aluminum on the inside of the cross chill. Here are my parts:

 

-Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX Ultra Stealth Dual-Core Xtreme Profile Radiator

-EK Supremacy Evo Cpu Water Block (original csq) Full Copper

​-Swiftech MCP655 G1/4 threaded special edition 12 VDC D5 Pump With Speed Controller

-Bitspower Water Tank Z- multi 250 POM

 

so all this together with my fittings that I still have to get do you see any corrosion issues or anything that might harm each other?

 please let me know thanks Nick!

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don't mix cooper and nickel internally. aluminium is fine with copper.

use  premixed fluid, or if you're hardcore, get a super strong pump and use mineral oil.

 

honestly corrosion is only an issue if your loop leaks. corrosion will cause the liquid to become an electrolytic solution which can short your parts on the event of a leak. this is why you should drain your loop once a year or every 1.5-2 years if you use fluid premix.

 

never use tap water or you are asking for trouble. use distilled (NOT PURIFIED), as it is pure H2O, and there for lacks any electrolytes which may damage your system if it leaks.

 

furthermore, flush your loop parts to get any debris out of it before you install any parts.

 

IMO, using the cross chill is completely unneeded. it will add ore fitting and tube costs that aren't going to help the motherboard in any reasonable way unless you're OCing EVERYTHING to the LIMIT!

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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use some premixed fluid with anticorrosion or corrosion inhibitors just to be safe

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@Nickzoom, follow your thread.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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Ouch! That font

<p>CPU: Intel i7 4790k(4.9GHz), Motherboard: ASUS sabertooth Z97 Mark 1 RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 (2 way SLI) PSU: EVGA 850w G2 Storage: Intel 730 Series 240GB 2.5" SSD, Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB Case: NZXT H440 Designed by Razer, EK,Alphacool,Bitspower custom loop.

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don't mix cooper and nickel internally. aluminium is fine with copper.

use  premixed fluid, or if you're hardcore, get a super strong pump and use mineral oil.

 

honestly corrosion is only an issue if your loop leaks. corrosion will cause the liquid to become an electrolytic solution which can short your parts on the event of a leak. this is why you should drain your loop once a year or every 1.5-2 years if you use fluid premix.

 

never use tap water or you are asking for trouble. use distilled (NOT PURIFIED), as it is pure H2O, and there for lacks any electrolytes which may damage your system if it leaks.

 

furthermore, flush your loop parts to get any debris out of it before you install any parts.

 

IMO, using the cross chill is completely unneeded. it will add ore fitting and tube costs that aren't going to help the motherboard in any reasonable way unless you're OCing EVERYTHING to the LIMIT!

My pump will be switch D5 Speacial edition with control but i was reading that mineral oil in a loop isn't the best thing to do! so do i use distilled water or a premix and if i have to use a premix which would it be?

  Thanks Nick

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The aluminum in your motherboard is supposedly anodized with a tough enough coating to not be an issue according to asus.

And nickel would be fine in your loop, I think @kidjt94 has confused bare aluminum with nickel, but only bare aluminum is a problem with nickel and copper, and again, you do not have a bare aluminum surface in there, its anodized to prevent corrosion.

 

Although like kidjt94 said as well, completly unnessacary to cool your motherboard, but you can do it to look cool. :)

Frank(enstein): 760T

Necro's core P5 build

 

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The aluminum in your motherboard is supposedly anodized with a tough enough coating to not be an issue according to asus.

And nickel would be fine in your loop, I think @kidjt94 has confused bare aluminum with nickel, but only bare aluminum is a problem with nickel and copper, and again, you do not have a bare aluminum surface in there, its anodized to prevent corrosion.

 

Although like kidjt94 said as well, completly unnessacary to cool your motherboard, but you can do it to look cool. :)

 

 

don't mix cooper and nickel internally. aluminium is fine with copper.

use  premixed fluid, or if you're hardcore, get a super strong pump and use mineral oil.

 

honestly corrosion is only an issue if your loop leaks. corrosion will cause the liquid to become an electrolytic solution which can short your parts on the event of a leak. this is why you should drain your loop once a year or every 1.5-2 years if you use fluid premix.

 

never use tap water or you are asking for trouble. use distilled (NOT PURIFIED), as it is pure H2O, and there for lacks any electrolytes which may damage your system if it leaks.

 

furthermore, flush your loop parts to get any debris out of it before you install any parts.

 

IMO, using the cross chill is completely unneeded. it will add ore fitting and tube costs that aren't going to help the motherboard in any reasonable way unless you're OCing EVERYTHING to the LIMIT!

I'm cooling my motherboard because its going to cost me 10 to 20$ worth of fittings and barely any extra tubing and if I have the option to cool it I might as well. What fans should I buy for my rad? I need 3 of them? 

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I'm cooling my motherboard because its going to cost me 10 to 20$ worth of fittings and barely any extra tubing and if I have the option to cool it I might as well. What fans should I buy for my rad? I need 3 of them? 

opps, had my metals mixed up, yeah no bare aluminium.

 

static pressure fans should go on rads.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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don't mix cooper and nickel internally. aluminium is fine with copper.

use  premixed fluid, or if you're hardcore, get a super strong pump and use mineral oil.

 

honestly corrosion is only an issue if your loop leaks. corrosion will cause the liquid to become an electrolytic solution which can short your parts on the event of a leak. this is why you should drain your loop once a year or every 1.5-2 years if you use fluid premix.

 

never use tap water or you are asking for trouble. use distilled (NOT PURIFIED), as it is pure H2O, and there for lacks any electrolytes which may damage your system if it leaks.

 

furthermore, flush your loop parts to get any debris out of it before you install any parts.

 

IMO, using the cross chill is completely unneeded. it will add ore fitting and tube costs that aren't going to help the motherboard in any reasonable way unless you're OCing EVERYTHING to the LIMIT!

wait!? Aluminium and copper are fine???

Anodic Index tells me very different story.  Is it because it takes too long to react? 

I understand the best way to avoid galvanic corrosion is to change coolant regularly so it won't turn highly conductive.

But aluminium with copper sounds scary with a difference of over 0.4~0.6v

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wait!? Aluminium and copper are fine???

Anodic Index tells me very different story.  Is it because it takes too long to react? 

 

readd above, i had it backwards.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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@
You meant when you said "opps, had my metals mixed up, yeah no bare aluminium."
I read through the whole thread, didn't understand what you mean... So here's what I gathered.

I know the discussion of this is motherboard material having aluminium so using a  copper or nickel plated copper block may cause corrosion, but it takes very very long time for it to actually happen.  
Therefore no need to be concerning about it.  Correct? :wacko: 

Just another question.
Aluminium and copper in a watercooling loop.. like copper block+aluminium rad is not acceptable, it will corrode.
Nickel and copper have only 0.05v difference, but EK in 2011 had corrosion issue by the bad plating of nickel.
How did that happen?  We can't even afford 0.05v difference in a loop?

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@GhostHitWall

 

damn dude, you're taking back to chemistry hard core right now.

use a premix fluid. end of worries.

 

but yes, technically i could pull out my old chem book and tell you which metal will act like an annode and cathode, but unless they are side by side diffusing into one another it will take some time. i'd say flush the loop every year or so. in reality the metals have to oxidize into the water, forming an electrolytic solution, then plate and diffure into each other corrosing each other, it's going to take a while before the metal components corrode in such a manner that they fail or become useless.

the real issue is the oxidization of the metals into the water forming an electrolytic solution that if spilt on your parts will fry them. if the metals do corrode each other (which would take a while) then each time you flush the loop they would corrode slower, then faster again.

 

don't use raw aluminum, make sure it's nickel plated. nickel and copper play well together. this is why copper tubing in outdoor AC units is common, and why galvonizing is all the rage. if the aluminum is annodized it should be much ore resistance to corrosion.

 

honestly, you just do what you do. i suggest fluid premix all day, everyday. refresh the loop maybe every 18months if you use pre-mix, 12 months if you use distilled water. (every 2 years if you use mineral oil, and you can just filter it and reuse)

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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@GhostHitWall

 

damn dude, you're taking back to chemistry hard core right now.

use a premix fluid. end of worries.

 

but yes, technically i could pull out my old chem book and tell you which metal will act like an annode and cathode, but unless they are side by side diffusing into one another it will take some time. i'd say flush the loop every year or so. in reality the metals have to oxidize into the water, forming an electrolytic solution, then plate and diffure into each other corrosing each other, it's going to take a while before the metal components corrode in such a manner that they fail or become useless.

the real issue is the oxidization of the metals into the water forming an electrolytic solution that if spilt on your parts will fry them. if the metals do corrode each other (which would take a while) then each time you flush the loop they would corrode slower, then faster again.

 

don't use raw aluminum, make sure it's nickel plated. nickel and copper play well together. this is why copper tubing in outdoor AC units is common, and why galvonizing is all the rage. if the aluminum is annodized it should be much ore resistance to corrosion.

 

honestly, you just do what you do. i suggest fluid premix all day, everyday. refresh the loop maybe every 18months if you use pre-mix, 12 months if you use distilled water. (every 2 years if you use mineral oil, and you can just filter it and reuse)

Thanks a lot.  I am not worried about anything... I was never lazy to maintain my loop. :D 

I know what you mean by the fluid will become conductive due to molecular of metal get into the fluid.

I 100% agree with you by changing coolant periodically will be the best bet to prevent that. 

Pre-mix with anti corrosion is another good idea.

The thing I really wanna know is whether to go full copper in a loop?

This is saying there's no real practical matter of doing so, since even with full copper, the fluid should be changed periodically due to fluid turning conductive(potential frying components if leaked).

Nickel and copper should work pretty well.

EK had bad(thin and unsolid??) nickel plating which for some reason happened to be oxidized(corroded), then affecting the block.

So what's the real cost of this if it's not galvanic?  Their problem seems to be resolved already...

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 The thing I really wanna know is whether to go full copper in a loop?

This is saying there's no real practical matter of doing so, since even with full copper, the fluid should be changed periodically due to fluid turning conductive(potential frying components if leaked).

Nickel and copper should work pretty well.

EK had bad(thin and unsolid??) nickel plating which for some reason happened to be oxidized(corroded), then affecting the block.

So what's the real cost of this if it's not galvanic?  Their problem seems to be resolved already...

If you have the budget to go full copper i would. copper will disapate heat better than nickle. and much better than aluminium

 

if the inside has thin galvanization or is inproperly galvinized it won't make any difference, they might as well not galvinize it at all. the bare portions of the aluminum will react and corrode underneath the nickle plate causing large porous flakes to get caught in your loop.

 

Okok so to conclude if I have a Ek copper water block, with a gpu water block that is Copper and the inside of my MB (Maximus Formula VI) is aluminum (anodized). Would that all work with a copper radiator and mayhams White with anticorrosion?

  Thanks

yes. it will work.

again, just use premix and it will last longer and be safer.

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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@
I see your point, thx
Regarding your answer,
Full copper budget is less than.. going for nickel the last time i check.  Copper blocks without nickel-plated is about $5~10 cheaper in the US.
Aluminum rads are not less expensive but often more expensive as well.
EK's problem in the past was not about aluminum in the loop.

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