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Question about Quick disconnect fittings

Hey guys, this seemed like the best place to ask about fittings.

 

A friend of mine sent a video about one of those adult beverage mixing stations that was all like steampunk and asked if I could maybe build one as a gift for her. Now, unless someone knows where to get cast iron elbows and T joints for dirt cheap, hers is probably going to be either plastic or painted aluminum with texture. Found affordable cast iron joints+black steel pipe.

 

The fittings part:

After doing some mental prototyping, I determined the only way for it to work seamlessly and not have potential huge spills is with quick disconnects. I know basically nothing about quick disconnect fittings, and the ones I've come across are the type that you'd use for a hose that don't have a seal for when they're disconnected.

I don't need some like super premium fittings or look amazing, honestly the $8 hose fittings are about what I'm looking for in terms of quality and appeal. Anyone have suggestions? Would like to keep it at like $10-15 a set to not have it be too expensive a gift and have gift guilt (we set up a $50 gift budget so nobody feels left out for gifting and it doesn't hurt our pockets)

 

I'm thinking 1/4 or 3/8in pipe/fittings are gonna be the best since 1/4 and 3/8 are a super common size and have good flow rate.

 

Would something like this work? (Adapters are cheap)

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You're going to use iron in a liquid system?  Ummm... rust. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

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4 hours ago, RevGAM said:

You're going to use iron in a liquid system?  Ummm... rust. 

Again, probably going to end up with aluminum for that reason and go for cast iron texture. Cast iron is mainly for the base so it doesn't tip over when you use it.

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15 hours ago, BiotechBen said:

cast iron joints

So that was incorrect. That's good!

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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3 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

So that was incorrect. That's good!

Still would need the joints for the base, antique telephone style. The cast iron is 99% steampunk decorative. (If you have painting tips on how to get that cast texture though, highly appreciated)

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16 hours ago, BiotechBen said:

Still would need the joints for the base, antique telephone style. The cast iron is 99% steampunk decorative. (If you have painting tips on how to get that cast texture though, highly appreciated)

Show me an example... maybe I know. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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Iron fittings are only used for natural gas.  For any food service you're looking at stainless steel stuff that was probably painted to look old timey.  (they make both cast and billet stainless steel fittings, with the second being more expensive but capable of handling way more PSI):

 

image.thumb.png.3bdcd1e3b5cda27445ae0089e7614b0e.png

 

In terms of quick disconnects you're talking about comparing valved vs. non valved.  Most times people want valved quick disconnects so it automatically shuts the line.  They still spill some amount of fluid though.

 

Alphacool makes plastic body ones: https://www.titanrig.com/alphacool-es-quick-release-connector-kit-tpv-industry-version-0360ac021301on.html

CPC is a mega-company that makes plastic body ones as well for industrial stuff.  They have a million variations.  EK rebrands their stuff.

All the other brass options "meant for watercooling" are too expensive.

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On 5/13/2024 at 2:04 PM, BiotechBen said:

Still would need the joints for the base, antique telephone style. The cast iron is 99% steampunk decorative. (If you have painting tips on how to get that cast texture though, highly appreciated)

The basic process is simple. You can use a texturing paint to help simulate that cast iron appearance, but it's not required. Apply the base color that you want and, if you're going for a two-tone look, apply the second color using a sponge with fine enough pores. So, for example, silver and rust color.

https://www.google.com/search?channel=ftr&client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+paint+so+it+looks+like+cast+iron

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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14 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

The basic process is simple. You can use a texturing paint to help simulate that cast iron appearance, but it's not required. Apply the base color that you want and, if you're going for a two-tone look, apply the second color using a sponge with fine enough pores. So, for example, silver and rust color.

https://www.google.com/search?channel=ftr&client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+paint+so+it+looks+like+cast+iron

I figured it was probably gonna be a tack paint with a sponge, or some sort of grit glued and then sprayed over, thanks!

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