Sanity check of new mech keyboard

[Shaqalac]

Hi,

 

I'm planning on getting a new mechanical keyboard. Having been out of the game for multiple years (writing this on a 2014 Ducky Year of the Horse) I thought it would be good to get some feedback on the research of what I've found

I don't have strong preferences on switch type. I'm coming from using Cherry MX Browns and Cherry MX Whites. The whites are not my favourites and feel too heavy for longer sessions.

 

Usage:

Mainly to be used for work in an open office space. The board might also be used for gaming but that is secondary.

 

Requirements:

• Quiet
• ISO layout

 

Parts:

• Keyboard: Keychron Q2 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless Custom Mechanical Keyboard
• Switches: Gateron Box Ink V2 Switch
• Mods:
  • Stabilizers Foam Sticker
  • Switch Film
  • Lubing of stabilisers
  • Lubing of switches (205g0 Switch Lubricant)

[spaghet rat]

2 minutes ago, Shaqalac said:

Hi,

 

I'm planning on getting a new mechanical keyboard. Having been out of the game for multiple years (writing this on a 2014 Ducky Year of the Horse) I thought it would be good to get some feedback on the research of what I've found

I don't have strong preferences on switch type. I'm coming from using Cherry MX Browns and Cherry MX Whites. The whites are not my favourites and feel too heavy for longer sessions.

 

Usage:

Mainly to be used for work in an open office space. The board might also be used for gaming but that is secondary.

 

Requirements:

• Quiet
• ISO layout

 

Parts:

• Keyboard: Keychron Q2 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless Custom Mechanical Keyboard
• Switches: Gateron Box Ink V2 Switch
• Mods:
  • Stabilizers Foam Sticker
  • Switch Film
  • Lubing of stabilisers
  • Lubing of switches (205g0 Switch Lubricant)

you dont need to film newer switches, the tolerances should be more than tight enough for most people. q2 pro may be to small for most office work, it is helpful to have a actual f row, get the k2 pro iso (https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-uk-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-k2-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#) instead. dont foam your stabs. everything else looks reasonable

[Shaqalac]

Thanks for the feedback.

It might be worth mentioning that my desktop is Windows and work laptop is a Mac, so being able to easily switch in between PC and Mac is a nice to have (the K2 got it as well). In addition I come from 60% keyboards and really like that, and I don't really use the F-keys anyway. So for me I don't mind missing out on that. I do also prefer the look of the Q2 compared to the K2.

 

Will skip on the film.

Can you elaborate why I should skip the Stabilizers Foam Sticker? Having seen Build your own Mechanical Keyboard… the RIGHT Way it appears to be a common mod with good results.

[SorryBella]

55 minutes ago, Shaqalac said:

Stabilizers Foam Sticker

Because putting shims/foams on it instead of actually getting good stabilizer is inferior, the foam dampens the stabilizer. And for the cost of the precut foams you could buy dielectric grease or get yourself a Durock Stabilizer Kit which would be a solid entry level stabilizer. But the one inside of Keychron is decent enough, id just do Snip mod, balance the wire, and then lube the stem and outer housing before putting a dielectric grease coated (just the tip) wire.

 

[Shaqalac]

Would it makes sense to combine both getting Durock stabilisers and foam stickers?

I'm looking to buy accessories/mod items from MaxGaming. They have Durock stabilisers in mutiple colours at very different prices. Are there any difference besides the colour? https://www.maxgaming.com/en/stabilizers/stabilizers-v2-screw-ins-purple

 

I can see it wasn't clear from my previous posts but my intention was to lube stabilisers as you describe

[Volbet]

On 5/28/2023 at 3:39 PM, SorryClaire said:

Because putting shims/foams on it instead of actually getting good stabilizer is inferior, the foam dampens the stabilizer. And for the cost of the precut foams you could buy dielectric grease or get yourself a Durock Stabilizer Kit which would be a solid entry level stabilizer. But the one inside of Keychron is decent enough, id just do Snip mod, balance the wire, and then lube the stem and outer housing before putting a dielectric grease coated (just the tip) wire.

 

While I agree on principle, there certainly are situations where foam dampeners are necessary, even with quality stabilizers. For example, if you're working with a PCB that's thinner than usual. Adding a bit of height to the stabilizer is necessary, because even the most quality stabilizer will rattle in such a case. 

Now, with a Keychron Q2 Pro that won't be an issue. 

 

 

On 5/28/2023 at 5:20 PM, Shaqalac said:

Would it makes sense to combine both getting Durock stabilisers and foam stickers?

I'm looking to buy accessories/mod items from MaxGaming. They have Durock stabilisers in mutiple colours at very different prices. Are there any difference besides the colour? https://www.maxgaming.com/en/stabilizers/stabilizers-v2-screw-ins-purple

 

I can see it wasn't clear from my previous posts but my intention was to lube stabilisers as you describe

There's no difference apart from the color. Just make sure you buy the screw-in stabilizers and not the plate-mount stabilizers.

While you won't see the stabilizers during normal operation, some people do like to color match their entire setup, stabilizers included. Just buy either a color you like or the cheapest of the lot. 

 

Now, if I can throw my two Cents into the conversation, I would recommend maybe looking at the TX AP Stabilizers instead if the Durock V2s. In my experience they're better balanced out of the box and a lot less in need of lubing than the Durocks. 

 

You definitely can combine foam stickers with a quality set of stabilizers, but it's not strictly necessary. Just keep in mind that the foam stickers will dampen, some will say "deaden," the sound of the larger modifier switches.

 

Although, in my experience the stabilizers that come with Keychron's keyboard kits are just fine. They're nothing to write home about, but lubed up they're perfectly usable and won't rattle too much.

 

 

On 5/28/2023 at 1:49 PM, Shaqalac said:

Hi,

 

I'm planning on getting a new mechanical keyboard. Having been out of the game for multiple years (writing this on a 2014 Ducky Year of the Horse) I thought it would be good to get some feedback on the research of what I've found

I don't have strong preferences on switch type. I'm coming from using Cherry MX Browns and Cherry MX Whites. The whites are not my favourites and feel too heavy for longer sessions.

 

Usage:

Mainly to be used for work in an open office space. The board might also be used for gaming but that is secondary.

 

Requirements:

• Quiet
• ISO layout

 

Parts:

• Keyboard: Keychron Q2 Pro QMK/VIA Wireless Custom Mechanical Keyboard
• Switches: Gateron Box Ink V2 Switch
• Mods:
  • Stabilizers Foam Sticker
  • Switch Film
  • Lubing of stabilisers
  • Lubing of switches (205g0 Switch Lubricant)

The Box Ink V2s don't strictly need to be filmed. The fit between the top and bottom housing on that switch is pretty tight from the factory. 

Also, if you do plan on filming the switches, I would recommend throwing a switch opener into your order (assuming you don't already have one). Opening the switches without a dedicated opener is a royal pain in the ass, so the €10 for an opener is money well spend. 

 

[SorryBella]

28 minutes ago, Volbet said:

For example, if you're working with a PCB that's thinner than usual

In that case then you should go and get stabilizer specifically made for that board thickness. I havent heard of any board thats not 1.6mm or 1.2mm so if this is an issue of non standard PCB, enlighten me.

[Volbet]

54 minutes ago, SorryClaire said:

In that case then you should go and get stabilizer specifically made for that board thickness. I havent heard of any board thats not 1.6mm or 1.2mm so if this is an issue of non standard PCB, enlighten me.

Well, getting stabilizers that fit 1,2mm PCBs can be difficult enough to begin with. At least it used to be an issue more so than it is today. 

But it is also an issue with keyboards using non-standard thicknesses. For example, the Keyno Y-8 caused me heaps of issue some time back, as it uses a 1mm PCB. The foam pads ended up saving my bacon in that case. 

[SorryBella]

10 minutes ago, Volbet said:

Well, getting stabilizers that fit 1,2mm PCBs can be difficult enough to begin with. At least it used to be an issue more so than it is today. 

Yeah now i can easily find TX stabilizer for 1.2mm PCB with 7u spacebar off Maxgaming for like 40 euros. But back then its even worse.

 

Also thanks for the shout of PSA on Keyno.

[Shaqalac]

On 5/28/2023 at 6:06 PM, Volbet said:

Now, if I can throw my two Cents into the conversation, I would recommend maybe looking at the TX AP Stabilizers instead if the Durock V2s. In my experience they're better balanced out of the box and a lot less in need of lubing than the Durocks. 

 

Although, in my experience the stabilizers that come with Keychron's keyboard kits are just fine. They're nothing to write home about, but lubed up they're perfectly usable and won't rattle too much.

Thanks for the input. I don't have any strong preference towards one over the other. I might do a bit of further research regarding this. I might also end up with the stock ones to begin with and see how that goes.

 

On 5/28/2023 at 6:06 PM, Volbet said:

You definitely can get combine foam stickers with a quality set of stabilizers, but it's not strictly necessary. Just keep in mind that the foam stickers will dampen, some will say "deaden," the sound of the larger modifier switches.

Given that I want it muted for the office, I might go with that. The stickers are pretty inexpensive anyway. As with the stabilisers, I might start without and buy later if I want them dampened a bit more.

 

On 5/28/2023 at 6:06 PM, Volbet said:

The Box Ink V2s don't strictly need to be filmed. The fit between the top and bottom housing on that switch is pretty tight from the factory. 

Also, if you do plan on filming the switches, I would recommend throwing a switch opener into your order (assuming you don't already have one). Opening the switches without a dedicated opener is a royal pain in the ass, so the €10 for an opener is money well spend. 

I will for sure skip that film as both you and @SorryClaire suggest. I wasn't necessarily planning on lubing the switches but it sounds like that will improve the feel and sound of the board significantly. What are your two cents in that regards?

[Volbet]

8 hours ago, Shaqalac said:

I will for sure skip that film as both you and @SorryClaire suggest. I wasn't necessarily planning on lubing the switches but it sounds like that will improve the feel and sound of the board significantly. What are your two cents in that regards?

Well, it would be rather hypocritical of me to advice against lubing the switches. I lube almost all switches that I own. Usually lubing the switches will help mute the sound, so if a quieter keyboard is what you're after, lubing might be part of the solution. 

 

The question you need to ask is if lubing is worth your time. It is a time consuming proces for what can be, relatively speaking, a minor gain in performance and acoustics. 

One thing I can recommend is try to lube only the stem of the switch, as that will take you 95% of the way for what amounts to half the work.