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My loop just broke down...

Go to solution Solved by Sir Beregond,
3 minutes ago, Xepho said:

Wait like actual toothpaste ?

And why alcohol is a bad idea ? It's not reactive with nickel.

 

image_proxy.jpg

If the nickel has at all flaked away already, I believe the alcohol can be problematic. 

 

Yes actual toothpaste, just use a soft toothbrush. That said, I was thinking about it and that might not be a good idea either if the nickel is at all damaged. Try hot water first and using a microfiber cloth to buff/polish with a soft toothbrush to help with the microfins. Looks like EK actually recommends an automotive polish.

 

See: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/

Hey,

Today my waterpump just stop working, without warning. It didnt make strange noise, the flow was consistant. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-spc-pwm-classic-rgb-plexi-incl-pump

When I emptied my loop, I noticed that some parts were slightly corroded, like in the surface.

The temps were always good, even with overclocking pushed far. (55°C on GPU and 75°C on CPU). The gpu is a 2080ti and cpu 5800x. The gpu block is 2y old and the cpu block only 1yo.

My radiator is : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-xe-360-triple-5419

I use the EK fluant https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-amber-orange-concentrate-100ml that I diluted in distilled water.

The loop is 2yo, and I've cleaned it last summer without noticing any probs (fluid is the correct color, and no corrosion).

 

But today was another story, the fuild was magenta and not orange anymore. I did not spot weird particles in it tho.

 

My problem is the following : should I replace the pump, with a new EK-CryoFuel, and hope that the corrosion stop ? Should I replace all the waterblocks in the system ? Should I go on air (because waterblocks are too expensive) ?

Does it exists coolants to resolve the corrosion ?

 

If you have any question I will happily answer them, because as of now I'm without pc at a time less that ideal 😕.

 

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To me it doesn't look like corrosion, probably using a metal polishing compound will restore the surface to brand new. IMO the coolant is fine, you may want to consider a liquid cooled pump like the D5 if you can fit it in.

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Ok so if I just add new coolant with new pump, the situation may resolve ? (or do not get worse).

Metal polishing implies that I need to open the waterblock, which I'm not sure to do because I'm not a pro in this domain.

This coolant will do ? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-mystic-fog-conc-250ml

 

What I want to know is if this doesn't get worse,I want to keep the waterblocks because their performances are OK.

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2 minutes ago, Xepho said:

Ok so if I just add new coolant with new pump, the situation may resolve ? (or do not get worse).

Metal polishing implies that I need to open the waterblock, which I'm not sure to do because I'm not a pro in this domain.

This coolant will do ? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-mystic-fog-conc-250ml

 

What I want to know is if this doesn't get worse,I want to keep the waterblocks because their performances are OK.

I would definitely stay clear of any coolant that isn't clear (i.e. no fog, no opaque). So that one you linked is a no-go from me.

 

To polish the block, yes, you will have to open it. If you aren't going to open and clean it between the changes, I would personally just get the same orange coolant as before.

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10 minutes ago, For Science! said:

I would definitely stay clear of any coolant that isn't clear (i.e. no fog, no opaque). So that one you linked is a no-go from me.

 

Why ? Because of residues in tubes and waterblock ?

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Just now, Xepho said:

Why ? Because of residues in tubes and waterblock ?

yes, the opaque particles will eventually settle and accumulate in undesirable places.

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I would tear down and open up your blocks and clean literally everything. 2 years is a long time to run an opaque coolant, and I guarantee you it will have lodged particles in various spots. Then, you should never run an opaque long term ever again and stick to clear coolant.

 

Here's the problem with running opaques.

 

Despite marketing, they really are "show" coolants and not meant to run long-term. 2 years is crazy talk. The nano particles suspended in the coolant will over time act as an abrasive on nickel plating, and I think that is what you are seeing happen with your block. Not corrosion, but rather abrasive action against the plating by the coolant over 2 year span. Moreover, particles do begin to fallout of suspension over time and will lodge into micro fins, jet plates, radiator channels, etc. So once it gets to that point, you literally need to tear down and clean everything. I recommend you look at getting a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit while you are at it.

 

Secondarily, inhibitors and biocides within coolant get used up, you really should never go 2 years without replacing the coolant. Usually it should be done once a year, but could be more often depending on environmental variables.

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It doesn't seem like corrosion to me but rather some residu of your coolant. Best thing to do is open up the blocks and give them a proper cleaning. Opening up the blocks should only require a hex key. Just be careful with the O-rings in your blocks.   

I've tried an opaque coolant once when I started watercooling just to discover that over time the nano-particles will fallout of suspension and clogging up my blocks. So basically it just distilled water with a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor for me now the last 4 years or so. Never has issues with my loop again and I'm replacing my coolant every year.



 

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4 hours ago, Xepho said:

I use the EK fluant https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-amber-orange-concentrate-100ml that I diluted in distilled water.

 

44 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

2 years is a long time to run an opaque coolant

It is a clear coolant

 

44 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

you really should never go 2 years without replacing the coolant.

I cleaned it up last year and it was Ok

15 minutes ago, Limecat86 said:

Best thing to do is open up the blocks and give them a proper cleaning

This does void the warranty right ? Is there any risks or it's just like open up, brush away the filth and close back ?

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15 minutes ago, Xepho said:

This does void the warranty right ? Is there any risks or it's just like open up, brush away the filth and close back ?

I think it doesn't with EK blocks. If you're careful with the O-rings and the jet plates laying on the micro fins, put everything back in the right place after cleaning it should be fine. I've opened up my blocks a few times over the years and put them back together without any issues after.

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3 minutes ago, Limecat86 said:

I think it doesn't with EK blocks. If you're careful with the O-rings and the jet plates laying on the micro fins, put everything back in the right place after cleaning it should be fine. I've opened up my blocks a few times over the years and put them back together without any issues after.

And what are the tools that you would use for this cleaning ? 90° alcohol and a toothbrush ? Metal brush ?

Do you need to buy a new o-ring after ?

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My mistake, I thought it was an opaque. Even dyed coolants though have a tendency to stain your parts. I'd generally stick with clear if you don't want to deal with that. And frankly, I would not recommend EK Cryofuel. I don't know why it's so popular, its one of the more problematic coolants out there for gunking things up, even their clear. Obviously YMMV, but well documented at this point.

 

In that case, not sure what the issue is, could just be crappy EK nickel plating flaking away strikes again. 

 

No idea about block warranties. My guess is warranty ensures that from the factory, it won't leak, so yeah if you open it, they can't claim that anymore. But I mean, your stuff is filthy, it needs to be cleaned. You're in the wrong hobby if a block warranty is going to keep you using dirty blocks. 

 

No you should not use a metal brush, you'll damage the nickel plating. I wouldn't use alcohol either. Toothbrush and toothpaste is actually not a bad way to go. You just re-use the o-ring. It's a specific shape made for the block.

 

 

Edited by Sir Beregond

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Wait like actual toothpaste ?

And why alcohol is a bad idea ? It's not reactive with nickel.

 

image_proxy.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Xepho said:

Wait like actual toothpaste ?

And why alcohol is a bad idea ? It's not reactive with nickel.

 

image_proxy.jpg

If the nickel has at all flaked away already, I believe the alcohol can be problematic. 

 

Yes actual toothpaste, just use a soft toothbrush. That said, I was thinking about it and that might not be a good idea either if the nickel is at all damaged. Try hot water first and using a microfiber cloth to buff/polish with a soft toothbrush to help with the microfins. Looks like EK actually recommends an automotive polish.

 

See: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/how-to-clean-water-blocks/

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On 8/19/2022 at 10:22 PM, Xepho said:

Wait like actual toothpaste ?

And why alcohol is a bad idea ? It's not reactive with nickel.

 

image_proxy.jpg

alcohol is a bad idea because if it get in contact with acrylic it causes micro cracks.

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Hello, Im back !

In the cleaning process I ran into an issue.

I've cleaned my cpu block successfully, but I can't open my gpu block because 3 screws are hidden behind a glued plastic. Any guess how to remove them properly ? 

The screws are on the right of the 1st image and the left of the second.

20220826_143817.thumb.jpg.1e817f01fcee8f5044d83fcef800a5e7.jpg20220826-143824.thumb.jpg.7d834436f8a5f43238d103c43cea0989.jpg

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Posted (edited)

There is 5 screws underneath the plastic, but it is hardglued and really difficult to take off

 

EDIT : I just ripped off the led, to access the screws. Even if the rgb strip is gone, I opened the bloc and cleaned it.

Now I get even better temps (5°C lower), without rgb.

 

This is sad that this design from ekwb did not include easy and non destructive maintenance.

Edited by Xepho
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errr... u can just use a heat gun to warm up that part to release its glue... 

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