Is Buying More RAM a WASTE for Gamers? (2022) - (SPONSORED)

[Chiyawa]

My take (in terms of gaming):

- 8GB (4x4 or 2x2x2x2) is the bare minimum in any modern system, at least for modern medium games.

- 12GB (4x2x4x2) is the most ideal if you're using DDR3.

- 16GB (8x8 or 4x4x4x4) is the sweet spot for most average joe, as most game didn't hit that much. Can even stream or multi task.

- 24GB (8x4x8x4) is quite plenty for almost everything you can throw at it.

- 32GB (16x16 or 8x8x8x8) is a little overkill, but there's plenty of room to cache game files if the game support RAM caching. Many games will take advantage of this in the future, as they can cache the assets to RAM and VRAM.

 

Here's a few tips that I always like to use as a general rule of thumb:

- Know what you want to play. Most game is okay but you might want to increase the capacity if you're playing city building simulation such as City Skyline or Anno.

- Higher speed greatly help most mid-range CPU and high end CPU. CL is not very important if you're not a competitive player. A lower CL RAM can increase cost exponentially.

- RGB is for aesthetic and serves no other purpose.

- Although heat sink cools your RAM, you may not need it if you're not over-volting it (over 1.2V for DDR4 or 1.5V for DDR3). Many high performance RAM needs it because they over-volt the RAM chips.

 

So, there's no one size fits all, because our usage varies a lot. 16GB can be consider 'standard' for gamers, but some who play CS:GO or DotA only doesn't need that much RAM (I still can play with an old Windows 7 laptop that only has 4GB RAM). So it boils down to the game you are playing.

[Guest]

Crazy question:

 

What about DDR2 and DDR3 rigs?

 

In the post-lockdown world, not everybody can afford a brand-spanking new computer. (This is why many computer users are so furious at Microsoft's Windows 11 hardware restrictions.) Some of us are stuck running Windows 10 (or Linux) on five and ten-year-old computers. And so, is there a way to breathe some new life into those computers just from picking better RAM upgrades?

[Bombastinator]

20 minutes ago, Shawn Hopscotch said:

Crazy question:

 

What about DDR2 and DDR3 rigs?

 

In the post-lockdown world, not everybody can afford a brand-spanking new computer. (This is why many computer users are so furious at Microsoft's Windows 11 hardware restrictions.) Some of us are stuck running Windows 10 (or Linux) on five and ten-year-old computers. And so, is there a way to breathe some new life into those computers just from picking better RAM upgrades?

There can be.  Fast ddr3 is about the same speed as slow ddr4. Ddr3 had 4gig sticks so if you fill the slots you can get 16gb.  A multi threaded 4 core is 4/8 which is enough threads for most things still.  Basically if it will run on a PS4 it will run on a 4/8 machine if it’s not too slow.  Ddr2 is harder because max memory is lower.  If you can get above 8gb though (so 9?) it can help a lot.

[An0maly_76]

On 6/16/2022 at 9:40 PM, An0maly_76 said:

I recently became aware that someone goofed recommending I go 3200 Mhz with my 1700 (only supports 2993, system has been neurotic since). So now I'm on the hunt for some 2666, and the 3200 will be transplanted to my 5900X, giving it 64GB total. I kinda think it'll be like dropping an 8.2L Cadillac engine in a Chevette (it's been done), but it will be interesting to see if this improves anything.

On 6/17/2022 at 1:31 AM, Bombastinator said:

I am also curious.

Turns out that particular 3200 Ballistix SKU (BL16G32C16U4B.16FE x2) was not only incorrect for the 1700, but wasn't on the board's QVL either. Two other builds also had issues with it due to board incompatibility. In a nutshell, the BL16G32C16U4B.16FE was not QVL'd for the three different boards in the three machines I've used it in. Nor can I find that SKU on any QVL list ANYWHERE.

 

With the BL16G32C16U4B.16FE (2020 production), my 1700 rig's MSI B450M Bazooka refused to recognize a new GPU and shut down, requiring RMA. MSI never did say what happened, but it has been neurotic since. Now I have a pretty good idea why, that board's QVL doesn't list BL16G32C16U4B.16FE. Furthermore, those DIMMs show in BIOS as different speeds, indicating a problem. It's not a priority as the machine is not in use, but I do intend to get into it later.

 

With BL16G32C16U4B.16FE (2022 production), my 5900X rig's Asus Tuf B550-PLUS would randomly blank screen every 8-12 cold boots, later determined POST failure on DRAM. RMA was approved, during which an ASRock B450M-HDV with a used 3600X served as a test bed for the BL16G32C16U4B.16FE, Asus KO RTX3060ti-8GB-OC, WD Blue SN570 1TB M.2 and WD Black 6TB. This setup had a constant Win10 hourglass cursor I could not remedy. One DIMM refused to POST solo or tandem. The other failed within two weeks. The ASRock B450M-HDV / 3600X now hums happily away with QVL'd Ballistix BL2K16G36C16U4B (BL16G36C16U4B.M16FE1 x2). My RTX3060ti was replaced by an Asus Phoenix GTX1650 OC when the Asus board came back, as I may or may not flip this build.

 

As for the Tuf B550-PLUS, naturally, Asus techs "could not duplicate issue". Transferred board, CPU, GPU, cooler, and storage to a Fractal Pop XL Air with Patriot Viper 4 Blackout (PVB432G320C6K). Ironically, same timings as the BL16G32C16U4B.16FE, but the Patriot Viper 4 Blackout is QVL'd for this board, the Ballistix it once used are not. While it's too early to call it, its issues, too, seem to be gone, though the reassembly process taught me DOCP is not guaranteed to detect the correct timings -- don't trust it blindly.

 

So while some say QVL means nothing, I assert that while it may not be the problem in ALL scenarios, QVL / board compatibility CAN and often DOES make a difference, and I will never install RAM without checking the board's QVL again. My recent findings indicate a particular RAM SKU's absence from a QVL might mean it was not tested (REMOTE), or caused issues that warranted its exclusion from the QVL (far more likely, as I've found). If it wasn't a thing before, it appears to be becoming a thing. I also post this as a wake-up call to those seeking advice -- get specific on your RAM, it could very well be your problem, and posting the SKU  / part # helps us to help you faster.

Edited August 20, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[Middcore]

4 hours ago, Shawn Hopscotch said:

Crazy question:

 

What about DDR2 and DDR3 rigs?

 

In the post-lockdown world, not everybody can afford a brand-spanking new computer. (This is why many computer users are so furious at Microsoft's Windows 11 hardware restrictions.) Some of us are stuck running Windows 10 (or Linux) on five and ten-year-old computers. And so, is there a way to breathe some new life into those computers just from picking better RAM upgrades?

 

 

High speed DDR3 is too expensive for the marginal benefits it yields to be worth the money put into dead platforms.

 

DDR2 hasn't been a thing for over ten years and nothing will make a system from that era any more relevant in modern tasks. 

[Bombastinator]

4 minutes ago, Middcore said:

 

 

High speed DDR3 is too expensive for the marginal benefits it yields to be worth the money put into dead platforms.

 

DDR2 hasn't been a thing for over ten years and nothing will make a system from that era any more relevant in modern tasks. 

I provisionally agree.  Not totally though.  Afaik all ddr3 is also used though these days so selling price can be random. The point about not putting any more money into a ddr3 machine is taken though.   A person may get rid of a fast ddr3 machine just because ddr5 has come out.  So the proviso is true depending on the price of the ddr3