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Please help? Potential GPU or PSU issue?

GamerBlake

Hey guys I’m sorry to bother you so late but since building my first PC about 4 years ago I haven’t run into any big problems I couldn’t fix..until today.

Can you please help me?

 

Summary:

 

Last night I booted down my PC when I went to bed and when I booted it up today I had this weird issue where the monitor was showing weird pixelated images like this:

 

3E8CCE0F-7096-4A77-96FB-5B9D31726551.thumb.jpeg.be82b8863649fcc91fbe1f9f63080c7a.jpeg

 

Anyway I was unable to do anything in the BIOS or even do a Safe Boot because everything on the screen is all jumbled and pixelated.

 

But eventually the computer did boot up and when I got to the Windows sign in I noticed that the screen resolution had gone from 1440p to 800x600 and I was unable to open up Nvidia control panel to change it back.

 

This made me suspicious so I went into Device Manager and my GPU is showing as “not working properly”.

 

I’ve tried unplugging and reseating my GPU and taking the power cables out and putting them back in but that didn’t do anything.

 

I also tried a basic CMOS reset via the motherboard button and re-installing the RAM even though I didn’t expect it to help I just wanted to make sure.

 

 

So far there are only 2 things I can imagine the problem being..

 

1). It’s a GPU hardware issue. I don’t know how this could be though since I haven’t done anything crazy with my 2080 Ti. Although I do always keep the fans running at 100% because the noise doesn’t bother me with my noise cancelling headphones on.

 

2). I think this one is more likely but could it be a PSU issue? If a GPU isn’t getting enough power what exactly does it look like?

 

The monitor is NOT the problem because it’s hooked up to my Nintendo Switch and I was just playing it a few minutes ago with no issues.

 

If it’s a PSU issue I’m also surprised because I paid a significant amount of extra money for the Corsair RM850x and even the LTT PSU forum lists that PSU as a pretty high end one so is it likely it would have problems within 4 years? If it was a Chinese random brand PSU I could believe it but this is a higher end Corsair PSU.

A0472B62-1F0F-46BF-A4A1-C294AC360A8B.thumb.jpeg.837e5758e21ba6b42c03374fc8178bab.jpeg

 

 

 

The PSU does have a lifetime warranty though so if that is the issue I should be able to have Corsair replace it at no charge.

 

What do you guys think? Is there anything I could be missing? Unfortunately I don’t have a spare PSU or GPU to figure out which is the problem and I don’t want to buy anything expensive like that until I’m 100% sure so I was hoping you guys might be able to help.

 

Thanks!

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Try the GPU in a different system and try a different GPU in your system.

 

Does the integrated GPU provide an OK image?

 

Maybe the 2080ti needs a cleaning?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 minute ago, 191x7 said:

Try the GPU in a different system and try a different GPU in your system.

 

Does the integrated GPU provide an OK image?

 

Maybe the 2080ti needs a cleaning?


Unfortunately I don’t have a spare GPU because I sold my 1070 Ti and my only other system is a laptop 😞

 

When I did the GPU unplug the first time I cleaned everything with compressed air and a lint free cloth because there was ALOT of dust clogging up the case fans and some in the GPU fans.

 

I thought maybe that was the problem and it was an overheating issue at first. Like maybe the fans weren’t cooling the GPU enough to keep it going but that wasn’t it. 😞

 

Oh and yes the integrated GPU on the CPU is working 100% 

 

I just don’t get it because the PC was working fine last night when I was playing Ace Combat 7 and Subnautica. It didn’t even hiccup.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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For what it seems like. A new PSU isn't necessary most likely it's the GPU being faulty of some sort. Try cleaning it probably and if possible a new system. Ask a friend if they would let you try at them or something if you don't have an extra PC it is possible to try with, 

Not sure if a DDU works in this situation but if possible, worth a try 

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Just now, GamerBlake said:


Unfortunately I don’t have a spare GPU because I sold my 1070 Ti and my only other system is a laptop 😞

Do you have friends or maybe a PC repair shop nearby?

 

I assume the GPU is out of warranty (if it's 4 years old), and if it's the cause of the issues (once you confirm it) there's no harm in opening it up, deep cleaning it and applying new thermal paste.

Sadly, the longevity of the RTX 2080 and 2080Ti isn't long. There are more and more cases of them dying in the 3-5 year range.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 minute ago, AxS said:

For what it seems like. A new PSU isn't necessary most likely it's the GPU being faulty of some sort. Try cleaning it probably and if possible a new system. Ask a friend if they would let you try at them or something if you don't have an extra PC it is possible to try with, 

Not sure if a DDU works in this situation but if possible, worth a try 


Well darn the GPU is the most expensive component of them all :(. Especially since it’s not like an old GPU that I could justify dying by now. It’s a 2080 Ti and it breaks my heart to think it is already defective with only moderate use for 4 years.

 

 

Maybe I can find a cheap old functional GPU on EBay to test out. Like a GTX 760 or something.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:


Unfortunately I don’t have a spare GPU because I sold my 1070 Ti and my only other system is a laptop 😞

 

When I did the GPU unplug the first time I cleaned everything with compressed air and a lint free cloth because there was ALOT of dust clogging up the case fans and some in the GPU fans 


Maybe try doing that again?

1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

 

I thought maybe that was the problem and it was an overheating issue at first. Like maybe the fans weren’t cooling the GPU enough to keep it going but that wasn’t it. 😞

 

Oh and yes the integrated GPU on the CPU is working 100% 

Than it seems like a GPU problem of some sort. When it happened to me, it died right after but that was because of the GPU power sensor was broken so it fried itself inside out.

 

I just don’t get it because the PC was working fine last night when I was playing Ace Combat 7 and Subnautica. It didn’t even hiccup.

Hmm 

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Just now, GamerBlake said:


Well darn the GPU is the most expensive component of them all :(. Especially since it’s not like an old GPU that I could justify dying by now. It’s a 2080 Ti and it breaks my heart to think it is already defective with only moderate use for 4 years.

 

 

Maybe I can find a cheap old functional GPU on EBay to test out. Like a GTX 760 or something.

You have a friend you can brigng the GPU to and ask if you can test it in their system? To isolate every problem possible. 

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

Maybe I can find a cheap old functional GPU on EBay to test out. Like a GTX 760 or something.

It would be more important to test the GPU in a different system. This is the way.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Just now, 191x7 said:

It would be more important to test the GPU in a different system. This is the way.

Fair point yeah

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4 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Do you have friends or maybe a PC repair shop nearby?

 

I assume the GPU is out of warranty (if it's 4 years old), and if it's the cause of the issues (once you confirm it) there's no harm in opening it up, deep cleaning it and applying new thermal paste.

Sadly, the longevity of the RTX 2080 and 2080Ti isn't long. There are more and more cases of them dying in the 3-5 year range.


I was expecting it to be out of warranty but my EVGA page says it’s still covered for another 9 months or so. O_o

 

Looks like it was 2019 not 2017 that I got it. I got the date wrong in my head.

 

54AC39C3-A5A5-4930-99E7-AA1E68F71A6A.thumb.jpeg.ca0768f3d2acc651f1ca4c105a39a5de.jpeg

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:


I was expecting it to be out of warranty but my EVGA page says it’s still covered for another 9 months or so. O_o

 

 

If it's under warranty, do not open it. You have to confirm the GPU is at fault and then do the RMA.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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3 minutes ago, AxS said:

You have a friend you can brigng the GPU to and ask if you can test it in their system? To isolate every problem possible. 


No I don’t have any friends with desktop PCs who live close enough for me to do that 😞

 

The nearest friend I have with a desktop lives 2 hours away. I can maybe see if my brother will bring his when he comes down here to visit my parents.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Contact EVGA about the issue. Ask confirm with them everything they need for you to do a RMA.

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1 minute ago, 191x7 said:

If it's under warranty, do not open it. You have to confirm the GPU is at fault and then do the RMA.


Oh I didn’t open it I just used the compressed air on the whole thing and the lint free cloth on just the fans.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Just now, AxS said:

Contact EVGA about the issue. Ask confirm with them everything they need for you to do a RMA.


I would if I could confirm the GPU is the issue. I just think the problem could be something else too.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:


No I don’t have any friends with desktop PCs who live close enough for me to do that 😞

 

The nearest friend I have with a desktop lives 2 hours away. I can maybe see if my brother will bring his when he comes down here to visit my parents.

If you are desperate. Ask a neighbor but not sure haha. Or coworker etc

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:


Oh I didn’t open it I just used the compressed air on the whole thing and the lint free cloth on just the fans.

As long as the warranty sticker is still there. It is covered 

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:


I would if I could confirm the GPU is the issue. I just think the problem could be something else too.

Only problem is the fact it's a 2080 Not sure if those are really in production anymore

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1 minute ago, AxS said:

If you are desperate. Ask a neighbor but not sure haha. Or coworker etc

I guess worst case scenario I could buy a low end used one on EBay. It shouldn’t need to be a high end card if it’s just testing right?

 

A GTX 750 used is pretty cheap.

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1 minute ago, AxS said:

Only problem is the fact it's a 2080 Not sure if those are really in production anymore

It’s a 2080 Ti which might still be in production since it’s the highest end of the 2000 series.

 

If not I wonder how they would remedy the warranty? It would look really bad for them if they became known for not honoring warranties. O_o

 

But I just have this weird feeling something is going on with the PSU because it’s like sometimes the GPU fans will spin for a few seconds and other times they won’t. It feels like it’s just struggling to stay going and so that’s why I keep thinking maybe it’s not getting enough power OR it’s getting too much heat.

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3 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

I guess worst case scenario I could buy a low end used one on EBay. It shouldn’t need to be a high end card if it’s just testing right?

 

A GTX 750 used is pretty cheap.

And you can why not resell it after haha when you're done

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

It’s a 2080 Ti which might still be in production since it’s the highest end of the 2000 series.

 

If not I wonder how they would remedy the warranty? It would look really bad for them if they became known for not honoring warranties. O_o

 

But I just have this weird feeling something is going on with the PSU because it’s like sometimes the GPU fans will spin for a few seconds and other times they won’t. It feels like it’s just struggling to stay going and so that’s why I keep thinking maybe it’s not getting enough power OR it’s getting too much heat.

That can also be the GPU just being problematic as the PCIe connector or 8pin's (Not sure how many the 2080Ti Uses) that just wants to be problematic. the PSU itself is often straight forward

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4 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

I guess worst case scenario I could buy a low end used one on EBay. It shouldn’t need to be a high end card if it’s just testing right?

 

A GTX 750 used is pretty cheap.

A GTX 750 does not strain the system nowhere near a 2080Ti. 

 

The only way you can really know is to test the GPU in a different system.

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1 minute ago, AxS said:

That can also be the GPU just being problematic as the PCIe connector or 8pin's (Not sure how many the 2080Ti Uses) that just wants to be problematic. the PSU itself is often straight forward

Now that you mention it what about the motherboard?

 

Is there any way to tell if the motherboard is having problems coordinating with the GPU? Like the GPU has to plug into the socket but does the socket ever have problems itself?

 

Honestly GPU defect is the worst case scenario and I’m hoping it could be anything else but that 😞

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