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Please help? Potential GPU or PSU issue?

GamerBlake
Just now, 191x7 said:

A GTX 750 does not strain the system nowhere near a 2080Ti. 

 

The only way you can really know is to test the GPU in a different system.

But why does it need to strain the system?

 

Im not trying to benchmark I’m just trying to see if the GPU will work or not right?

 

Technically if it is able to simply boot up at 1440p and play a YouTube video it would prove that my GPU is the problem.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

Now that you mention it what about the motherboard?

 

Is there any way to tell if the motherboard is having problems coordinating with the GPU? Like the GPU has to plug into the socket but does the socket ever have problems itself?

 

Honestly GPU defect is the worst case scenario and I’m hoping it could be anything else but that 😞

As said, do one problem. Try a new system, ask anyone close. They might wonder if you're sane at first. But if you explain they'll hopefully understand and be willing to help

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Just now, AxS said:

As said, do one problem. Try a new system, ask anyone close. They might wonder if you're sane at first. But if you explain they'll hopefully understand and be willing to help

Oh hey I called my brother and he said he had his old 970 in the garage..

 

Would this work to test?

 

B8F42023-9425-4825-A682-4E6EF088B541.thumb.jpeg.7d37e7502f162b998c920fe436c1b570.jpeg

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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2 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

But why does it need to strain the system?

 

Im not trying to benchmark I’m just trying to see if the GPU will work or not right?

 

Technically if it is able to simply boot up at 1440p and play a YouTube video it would prove that my GPU is the problem.

I'm not fully sure here. But I THINK what he/she means for that to be an issue. The PSU needs to be strained more than what a 750 can do. A 2080Ti can pull a lot more than a 2080Ti don't arrest me on this, but I think it's what was meant.

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2 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

But why does it need to strain the system?

 

Im not trying to benchmark I’m just trying to see if the GPU will work or not right?

 

Technically if it is able to simply boot up at 1440p and play a YouTube video it would prove that my GPU is the problem.

Trying a different GPU is a step to prove the motherboard, PSU or some other parts are bad.

It's done when your GPU doesn't output an image or the system doesn't boot. In your case, the system outputs an image that is BAD, and in your case the system boots normally with the integrated GPU. Actually, in your case, trying a different GPU makes no sense, unless it's maybe a similar card or a one that draws more.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
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I think the 970 can work 

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3 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Trying a different GPU is a step to prove the motherboard, PSU or some other parts are bad.

It's done when your GPU doesn't output an image or the system doesn't boot. In your case, the system outputs an image that is BAD, and in your case the system boots normally with the integrated GPU. Actually, in your case, trying a different GPU makes no sense, unless it's maybe a similar card or a one that draws more.

I have to try something though.

 

What do I do if I have my brother put MY card in his system and it works just fine?

 

What would be the next step in that situation?

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

I have to try something though.

 

What do I do if I have my brother put MY card in his system and it works just fine?

 

What would be the next step in that situation?

Yeah that is pretty much the same as trying it in a new system. And than it also can show if the PSU is the faulty component 

 

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4 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Trying a different GPU is a step to prove the motherboard, PSU or some other parts are bad.

It's done when your GPU doesn't output an image or the system doesn't boot. In your case, the system outputs an image that is BAD, and in your case the system boots normally with the integrated GPU. Actually, in your case, trying a different GPU makes no sense, unless it's maybe a similar card or a one that draws more.

I should mention sometimes even the iGPU doesn’t work and it won’t boot up at all it will just keep restarting.

 

But when it does manage to boot up it’s always the iGPU working and the GPU labeled as “not working” in device manager and Nvidia control panel inaccessible.

 

However I think it is important to mention sometimes it just restarts over and over just because I don’t understand why that would happen if it’s just the GPU and everything else is fine.

 

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, AxS said:

Yeah that is pretty much the same as trying it in a new system. And than it also can show if the PSU is the faulty component 

 

When I was looking for the 970 I found my brothers old PSU as well! It’s a 750W Bronze but it should be enough.

 

I specifically remember the reason I got an 850W is because I wanted significant headroom but I do remember building my PC and knowing that 750W is still more than enough.

 

118B7E7F-897C-4F42-9D95-F016A802E9C6.thumb.jpeg.5224cbdfcab595d9cf9747463ad24fd6.jpeg

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

When I was looking for the 970 I found my brothers old PSU as well! It’s a 750W Bronze but it should be enough.

 

I specifically remember the reason I got an 850W is because I wanted significant headroom but I do remember building my PC and knowing that 750W is still more than enough.

 

118B7E7F-897C-4F42-9D95-F016A802E9C6.thumb.jpeg.5224cbdfcab595d9cf9747463ad24fd6.jpeg

You can proably try hooking that up and seeing what happens

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Just now, AxS said:

You can proably try hooking that up and seeing what happens

80 bronze isn't a problem if it's a short one time test

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Just now, AxS said:

You can proably try hooking that up and seeing what happens

I’d much rather it be a PSU issue.

 

From what I’ve been told Corsair is pretty good with honoring their lifetime warranties.

 

Its so depressing paying so much money for a component to fail like that in a few years 😕

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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6 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

I have to try something though.

 

What do I do if I have my brother put MY card in his system and it works just fine?

 

What would be the next step in that situation?

Trust me, it won't. But if it does, the next steps would be checking the motherboard.

 

4 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

I should mention sometimes even the iGPU doesn’t work and it won’t boot up at all it will just keep restarting.

 

But when it does manage to boot up it’s always the iGPU working and the GPU labeled as “not working” in device manager and Nvidia control panel inaccessible.

 

However I think it is important to mention sometimes it just restarts over and over just because I don’t understand why that would happen if it’s just the GPU and everything else is fine.

 

Wait, are you trying the IGPU while the faulty card is inside? Ofc it will have issues booting, you have to take the faulty card out.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
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1 minute ago, AxS said:

80 bronze isn't a problem if it's a short one time test

Bronze is just the efficiency. Basically it’s an indicator of how much electricity is wasted but it doesn’t really affect the components at all.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Just now, 191x7 said:

Trust me, it won't. But if it does, the next steps would be checking the motherboard.

 

Wait, are you trying the IGPU while the faulty card is inside? Ofc it will have issues booting, you have to take the faulty card out.

Yeah I was booting it with the card in. Because I was trying to figure out if that was the problem and if so how to fix it.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Just now, GamerBlake said:

Bronze is just the efficiency. Basically it’s an indicator of how much electricity is wasted but it doesn’t really affect the components at all.

I know, it can have something to do with overvoltage but not often

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You said the IGPU works fine right?

 

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2 minutes ago, GamerBlake said:

I’d much rather it be a PSU issue.

Who wouldn't at this time. Imagine it happened 10 months ago, then it would be even worse.

 

Just now, GamerBlake said:

Yeah I was booting it with the card in.

Take that highly-likely-faulty card out.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 minute ago, 191x7 said:

Who wouldn't at this time. Imagine it happened 10 months ago, then it would be even worse.

 

Take that highly-likely-faulty card out.

Haha fair, the PSU is fairly easy to replace too

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2 minutes ago, AxS said:

You said the IGPU works fine right?

 

Yeah when it boots up it does. Sometimes it takes a while to boot because it just keeps restarting over and over and over.

 

But like I said I was trying it with the GPU still in.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Just now, GamerBlake said:

Sometimes it takes a while to boot because it just keeps restarting over and over and over.

But like I said I was trying it with the GPU still in.

I am wondering if this will keep happening when you take the expensive paperweight out.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
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1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

Yeah when it boots up it does. Sometimes it takes a while to boot because it just keeps restarting over and over and over.

 

But like I said I was trying it with the GPU still in.

Okay, I mean you could tear the whole thing apart and put it together and just do that as a test, but don't think it's worth it to be honest

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Just now, AxS said:

Haha fair, the PSU is fairly easy to replace too

If EVGA honors their warranty the GPU should be replaced. The sticker is still there fresh and clean and totally unblemished.

 

If they don’t make 2080 Tis anymore they could instead provide a 3080 Ti or even a normal 3080.

 

Afterall this isn’t something I did wrong. I’d be willing to bet ALOT of money that if an expert opened up the card and evaluated everything they would say I operated the GPU within its advertised specifications at all times.

 

I say that because I know some people cause the damage to the GPUs themselves on accident.

CPU: i7 8700K (5.1 GHz OC). AIO: EVGA CLC 280 280mmGPUEVGA XC2 Ultra 2080Ti. PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular. MB: MSI MEG Z390 ACE. RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB (3600 MHz OC). STORAGE: 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe, 2TB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB Samsung 860 Evo, 1TB Samsung 860 QVO, 2TB Firecuda 7200rpm SSHD, 1TB WD Blue. CASE: NZXT H510 Elite. FANS: Corsair LL120 RGB 120mm x4. MONITOR: MSI Optix MAG271CQR 2560x1440 144hz. Headset: Steelseries Arctis 5 Gaming Headset. Keyboard: Razer Cynosa Chroma. Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate (Wireless) Webcam: Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.

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Just now, GamerBlake said:

If EVGA honors their warranty the GPU should be replaced. The sticker is still there fresh and clean and totally unblemished.

 

If they don’t make 2080 Tis anymore they could instead provide a 3080 Ti or even a normal 3080.

 

Afterall this isn’t something I did wrong. I’d be willing to bet ALOT of money that if an expert opened up the card and evaluated everything they would say I operated the GPU within its advertised specifications at all times.

 

I say that because I know some people cause the damage to the GPUs themselves on accident.

If they'll do it performance to performance, you'll get a 3070 or a 3070Ti

I know EVGA are good at warranty. 

I mean if an expert is error minded. He can find a supposed error in absolutely everything. 

 

But contact them and explain everything and check if an RMA is possible

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