Jump to content

What can be soldered and what can't?

2DPrinter
By 2DPrinter
in Hobby Electronics
 Share
Posted

Can I solder wires on to 24v lead acid battery terminals? Or is it safer to crimp wires and attach that to the terminals instead? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

clamping is safer. As long as there is space to use clamps or screws and nuts, don't point a soldering gun to something sensitive to heat like batteries

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

The battery will sink all the heat away, so the terminal won't get hot enough for the solder to flow properly. Even if you can somehow get it hot enough without damaging the battery, you'll be left with a relatively weak joint. If it's going into something like a bike or scooter, the wire will flex and eventually fail at the point where the solder stopped wicking up between the strands. (Almost everything in automotive wiring is crimped for that reason.)

 

The right way is to put matching connectors on the wires, usually spade terminals, eye terminals (the kind that look like washers), or clamps (like a car or motorcycle battery).

I sold my soul for ProSupport.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
13 minutes ago, 2DPrinter said:

Can I solder wires on to 24v lead acid battery terminals? Or is it safer to crimp wires and attach that to the terminals instead? 

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!   LEAD ACID BATTERIES EMIT HYDROGEN GAS!!!!  The last thing in the world is to ignite the HYDROGEN gas coming from a lead acid battery.  Use a crimping tool or something similar to clamp the wire to the terminal but by no-means at all should anyone ever use something hot like a lit match or a soldering gun near a lead acid battery,  EVER.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
20 hours ago, kb5zue said:

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!   LEAD ACID BATTERIES EMIT HYDROGEN GAS!!!!  The last thing in the world is to ignite the HYDROGEN gas coming from a lead acid battery.  Use a crimping tool or something similar to clamp the wire to the terminal but by no-means at all should anyone ever use something hot like a lit match or a soldering gun near a lead acid battery,  EVER.

Dude they don’t emit enough to cause an issue. The trying to heat up the terminal enough to get a good bond is the issue. Also I wouldn’t permanently attach anything to a battery.  Just use a bolt 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

Yes, you could solder wires to battery terminals.  But crimped terminals or screws would be better.

 

How good of a soldering job you would do will depend on the type of metal the terminals use, and your  technique. I would probably have to use some gel flux, tin the wire and then insert the wire into the flux and solder from above, adding new solder so that the wire, solder and everything is under flux all the time. Terminals are also quite big, so they'll suck heat quick so that's another concern.

 

The batteries do leak hydrogen gas but in extremely small amounts and mostly when under use (charging and discharging)... it's not like you'd be soldering wires for hours ... it's a 2-5 minute job at most.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

-= Cleaned =-

Control yourself or dont post.

COMMUNITY STANDARDS   |   TECH NEWS POSTING GUIDELINES   |   FORUM STAFF

LTT Folding Users Tips, Tricks and FAQ   |   F@H & BOINC Badge Request   |   F@H Contribution   |   My Rig   |   Project Steamroller

I am a Moderator, but I am fallible. Discuss or debate with me as you will but please do not argue with me as that will get us nowhere.

 

Spoiler

† † †

 

Character is like a Tree and Reputation like its Shadow. The Shadow is what we think of it; The Tree is the Real thing.  ~ Abraham Lincoln

Reputation is a Lifetime to create but seconds to destroy.

You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life.  ~ Winston Churchill

Docendo discimus - "to teach is to learn"

 

† CHRISTIAN MEMBER †

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing Hobby Electronics

×