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Meed help choosing a budget gigabit switch

PlayerLoler
Go to solution Solved by HanZie82,
16 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

Metal housing doesn't mean it runs cooler, unless the ic's are actually in contact with the housing. The amount of passive cooling is next to zero. 

 

21 hours ago, Sir Asvald said:

What is your budget? Plastic or metal, as long as the switch is working, who cares?

While you are correct that plastic has no direct influence.

In my experience with at least 100 switches, the one where that manufacterer put the effort to make it metal, last way longer.

And as most are possible made in the same factory, its good trusted tech.

 

22 hours ago, Sir Asvald said:

Personally if i did not need the ports i would not go for that model.

Unknown brand, does not have to keep its name in high regard.

Looks cheaply made, so my guess the internals arent much better either.

 

The specs clearly show the shortcomings of the plastic 8 port. Half the buffer.

Less compatibility, and mostly no mention of MTBF

As where the 5port shows at least 60000 hours... And less powerusage.

 

Going for that 8 port, i can assure you it can only give headaches....
I've been there. It's not worth anyone's time.

Hey!

Im searching to buy a gigabit switch since I need a couple of ports in my room and im looking to buy a switch that is kinda like this one but im not sure if it is good and simple to use

Im also looking around the max of 20€

Thx in advance 

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Whats speeds and how many connections are wanted?

 

edit; Nothing wrong with the one you chose.

 

I have a TP-link, probably has the same insides. That thing has been on over 3 years now (almost continuously) never had an issue.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

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The one you picked is good, my suggestion is to get one with a metal exterior like the one you list.   Plastic exteriors means the internal run hotter and don't last as long.  The old white plastic netgear ones failed a lot, (My work bought 30+ of them for conference rooms, they kept needing to power cycled or just completely would die).

 

 

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CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X | CPU Cooler: Stock AMD Cooler | Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) | RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 | GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB Zotac Mini | Case: K280 Case | PSU: Cooler Master B600 Power supply | SSD: 1TB  | HDDs: 1x 250GB & 1x 1TB WD Blue | Monitors: 24" Acer S240HLBID + 24" Samsung  | OS: Win 10 Pro

 

Audio: Behringer Q802USB Xenyx 8 Input Mixer |  U-PHORIA UMC204HD | Behringer XM8500 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone | Sound Blaster Audigy Fx PCI-E card.

 

Home Lab:  Lenovo ThinkCenter M82 ESXi 6.7 | Lenovo M93 Tiny Exchange 2019 | TP-LINK TL-SG1024D 24-Port Gigabit | Cisco ASA 5506 firewall  | Cisco Catalyst 3750 Gigabit Switch | Cisco 2960C-LL | HP MicroServer G8 NAS | Custom built SCCM Server.

 

 

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2 hours ago, HanZie82 said:

Whats speeds and how many connections are wanted?

 

edit; Nothing wrong with the one you chose.

 

I have a TP-link, probably has the same insides. That thing has been on over 3 years now (almost continuously) never had an issue.

I have 500mbs 

And want to connect for now my computer and android box

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1 hour ago, Allan B said:

The one you picked is good, my suggestion is to get one with a metal exterior like the one you list.   Plastic exteriors means the internal run hotter and don't last as long.  The old white plastic netgear ones failed a lot, (My work bought 30+ of them for conference rooms, they kept needing to power cycled or just completely would die).

 

 

Thx for the tips I'll take them into consideration

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29 minutes ago, PlayerLoler said:

I see

Also other people here are reccomending a metal exterior and idk if that one is it?

What is your budget? Plastic or metal, as long as the switch is working, who cares?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X | CPU Cooler: Stock AMD Cooler | Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) | RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 | GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB Zotac Mini | Case: K280 Case | PSU: Cooler Master B600 Power supply | SSD: 1TB  | HDDs: 1x 250GB & 1x 1TB WD Blue | Monitors: 24" Acer S240HLBID + 24" Samsung  | OS: Win 10 Pro

 

Audio: Behringer Q802USB Xenyx 8 Input Mixer |  U-PHORIA UMC204HD | Behringer XM8500 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone | Sound Blaster Audigy Fx PCI-E card.

 

Home Lab:  Lenovo ThinkCenter M82 ESXi 6.7 | Lenovo M93 Tiny Exchange 2019 | TP-LINK TL-SG1024D 24-Port Gigabit | Cisco ASA 5506 firewall  | Cisco Catalyst 3750 Gigabit Switch | Cisco 2960C-LL | HP MicroServer G8 NAS | Custom built SCCM Server.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Sir Asvald said:

What is your budget? Plastic or metal, as long as the switch is working, who cares?

Max 20€

I just need the switch to work well

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6 hours ago, Allan B said:

The one you picked is good, my suggestion is to get one with a metal exterior like the one you list.   Plastic exteriors means the internal run hotter and don't last as long.  The old white plastic netgear ones failed a lot, (My work bought 30+ of them for conference rooms, they kept needing to power cycled or just completely would die).

 

 

Metal housing doesn't mean it runs cooler, unless the ic's are actually in contact with the housing. The amount of passive cooling is next to zero. 

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16 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

Metal housing doesn't mean it runs cooler, unless the ic's are actually in contact with the housing. The amount of passive cooling is next to zero. 

 

21 hours ago, Sir Asvald said:

What is your budget? Plastic or metal, as long as the switch is working, who cares?

While you are correct that plastic has no direct influence.

In my experience with at least 100 switches, the one where that manufacterer put the effort to make it metal, last way longer.

And as most are possible made in the same factory, its good trusted tech.

 

22 hours ago, Sir Asvald said:

Personally if i did not need the ports i would not go for that model.

Unknown brand, does not have to keep its name in high regard.

Looks cheaply made, so my guess the internals arent much better either.

 

The specs clearly show the shortcomings of the plastic 8 port. Half the buffer.

Less compatibility, and mostly no mention of MTBF

As where the 5port shows at least 60000 hours... And less powerusage.

 

Going for that 8 port, i can assure you it can only give headaches....
I've been there. It's not worth anyone's time.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

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On 12/17/2021 at 4:19 PM, HanZie82 said:

Going for that 8 port, i can assure you it can only give headaches....

I've been there. It's not worth anyone's time.

That's true, I've had a lot of switches and the cheapest 8 port I had worked fine except over time some of the ports failed, which rather negates the benefit of it having more ports.

I'm slowly migrating over to smart-managed switches for multi-gig support though there's nothing wrong with a known good brand unmanaged IMO.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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