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Motherboard- Gigabyte 1155 rev 3

CPU- i3 3220

PSU- 10 dollar 250 W frontech

OS-  Windows 10 pro trial

Pc keep getting reboot and I have to select "load optimized settings". I have replaced the CMOS battery last month. I purchased the motherboard last month(it cost around  35 USD)and it's a used one.

 

i3 3220, ddr3 1333MHz 6Gb(4+2) , GA-H61M-S2P-R3, Frontech Jill Case, Corsair CX-450m, Seagate 500gb hdd 7.2k, Dell 1600*900 Monitor, Windows 10, Ant Esport MK 3400V2 Mechanical Keyboard, Dell MS 116, Wifi Dongle

 

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I'd take the battery out and test it, you could've just gotten a bad battery (not likely but possible). If the battery is still good, there might be a scratch on the motherboard that broke the trace for the CMOS battery, causing it not to work.

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I'd check the clear CMOS jumper.  On many boards those do not even ACTUALLY clear the CMOS, the 'CLR' position does nothing, but the other position allows the jumper to bridge the pins which allows the 3.3v power to reach the SRAM and RTC.  'Switching The Jumper' doesn't 'jump' anything, it just literally cuts the power connection, the 'CLR' position is just a safe place to not lose the jumper for 15 seconds.

Solved a 'bad' CMOS on an X79 board, the jumper was just broken and never bridging the pins in the default position, so the SRAM/RTC never had power from the battery ever.  New jumper, problem solved.

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1 minute ago, CerealExperimentsLain said:

I'd check the clear CMOS jumper.  On many boards those do not even ACTUALLY clear the CMOS, the 'CLR' position does nothing, but the other position allows the jumper to bridge the pins which allows the 3.3v power to reach the SRAM and RTC.  'Switching The Jumper' doesn't 'jump' anything, it just literally cuts the power connection, the 'CLR' position is just a safe place to not lose the jumper for 15 seconds.

Solved a 'bad' CMOS on an X79 board, the jumper was just broken and never bridging the pins in the default position, so the SRAM/RTC never had power from the battery ever.  New jumper, problem solved.

But it ran fine for before. Shouldn't that junper thing had cause the problem before? 

i3 3220, ddr3 1333MHz 6Gb(4+2) , GA-H61M-S2P-R3, Frontech Jill Case, Corsair CX-450m, Seagate 500gb hdd 7.2k, Dell 1600*900 Monitor, Windows 10, Ant Esport MK 3400V2 Mechanical Keyboard, Dell MS 116, Wifi Dongle

 

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4 minutes ago, Purgatory420 said:

But it ran fine for before. Shouldn't that junper thing had cause the problem before? 

Look, if you're having CMOS issues, and you want to argue against checking the CMOS jumper as part of your troubleshooting process, I dunno what to tell you.

Desktop: Ryzen 9 3950X, Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus, 64GB DDR4, MSI RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio, Creative Sound Blaster AE-7

Gaming PC #2: Ryzen 7 5800X3D, Asus TUF Gaming B550M-Plus, 32GB DDR4, Gigabyte Windforce GTX 1080

Gaming PC #3: Intel i7 4790, Asus B85M-G, 16B DDR3, XFX Radeon R9 390X 8GB

WFH PC: Intel i7 4790, Asus B85M-F, 16GB DDR3, Gigabyte Radeon RX 6400 4GB

UnRAID #1: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, Asus TUF Gaming B450M-Plus, 64GB DDR4, Radeon HD 5450

UnRAID #2: Intel E5-2603v2, Asus P9X79 LE, 24GB DDR3, Radeon HD 5450

MiniPC: BeeLink SER6 6600H w/ Ryzen 5 6600H, 16GB DDR5 
Windows XP Retro PC: Intel i3 3250, Asus P8B75-M LX, 8GB DDR3, Sapphire Radeon HD 6850, Creative Sound Blaster Audigy

Windows 9X Retro PC: Intel E5800, ASRock 775i65G r2.0, 1GB DDR1, AGP Sapphire Radeon X800 Pro, Creative Sound Blaster Live!

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