GPU Contact pad Scratched

[SomRush]

Hi,
Thanks in advance for taking time to read my issue.

Yesterday my system stopped display output and after much troubleshooting and diagnostics I found out culprit could be scratched contact pad on GPU.

Here are the photos of both side.

 

The exact issue i was facing was - No Display output and GPU fans didn't spin.

 

Now i am not 100% sure this was due to these scratched pads or some other issue. But wiggling a little turned on the GPU.

Secondly Can they be repaired?

MY Config-

Ryzen - 1600

GSKIll 8gb 2100

MSI B350 tomahawk

MSI 1060 6gb OC

Kingston 480 gb sata ssd

and 2 other HDD

Cooler Master MWE 550 watt

[W-L]

3 minutes ago, SomRush said:

-SNIP-

Looks almost like the edges of the pads are degrading, you can try cleaning them off with some isopropyl to see if it resolves the issue. However the next best step if the base copper plane is still intact and hasn't delaminated is to apply a thin coating of solder or re-tin the pads to see if it's an electrical contact issue. I'd also closely inspect the pins for the PCI-E slot to make sure it's not damaged. 

[SomRush]

12 hours ago, W-L said:

Looks almost like the edges of the pads are degrading, you can try cleaning them off with some isopropyl to see if it resolves the issue. However the next best step if the base copper plane is still intact and hasn't delaminated is to apply a thin coating of solder or re-tin the pads to see if it's an electrical contact issue. I'd also closely inspect the pins for the PCI-E slot to make sure it's not damaged. 

I can not do that solder or re-tin it myself need to find some good places to do that.

Secondly, I tried to look into pci-e slot but nothing is visible to naked eye.

[Falkentyne]

17 hours ago, SomRush said:

I can not do that solder or re-tin it myself need to find some good places to do that.

Secondly, I tried to look into pci-e slot but nothing is visible to naked eye.

That's not actually hard to re-tin them with solder.  It's actually easier than you think.

What you need is:

1) TS-100 soldering iron (65W), make sure you get the 120V adapter assuming you're in USA, I don't know what to do if you're in some third world country.

2) Soldering Rosin Flux

3) 3M high temp polyimide tape (the 1/4th inch stuff works well).  3M tape is more expensive than generic cheap tape but it's worth the price.

4) Bronze solder tip cleaner

5) 60/40 solder.  Kester solder wire is VERY high quality and I recommend that.

 

Then all you do is preheat the iron to 350C, then apply strips of kapton tape around the pins you do NOT want to solder touch up.  Apply kapton tape to every pin within 2 inches of the pin you are going to touch up with solder.  Put tape over the other pins (even the other damaged pins), so that ONLY the pin you are working on is "exposed".

This is called a "Solder mask."  You can youtube this and then you will understand how this works.

 

Then after preheating the iron, apply a small dab of solder to the end of the iron tip.

Then apply flux to the top of the gold finger you are going to touch up, all around it and spread it around with something.

Then apply the iron tip (that you tinned with the kester solder first!) to the exposed PCIE gold finger and just move it around the entire finger you are working on, so it forms a thin flat layer.  Make sure it's not thick.  Don't keep the iron still, keep moving it.  The finger should then look 'silver' instead of gold, like you 'replaced' the gold finger with a silver finger, and it should be as thick as the original layer (remember it's just a coating).

 

Then let it cool down, cover up the pin you tinned up with kapton tape and uncover the next pin and work on that as well.

 

All this being said, I honestly do not think the gold finger being tarnished is the cause of the problem.

[W-L]

8 hours ago, SomRush said:

I can not do that solder or re-tin it myself need to find some good places to do that.

Secondly, I tried to look into pci-e slot but nothing is visible to naked eye.

It's not too difficult long as one has the tools as Falken said but I would try cleaning the pads with some isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab to see if it clears up first. But if it still has display issues then I'd try going down the avenue of retinning the pads. 

[SomRush]

On 7/29/2021 at 9:59 AM, Falkentyne said:

That's not actually hard to re-tin them with solder.  It's actually easier than you think.

What you need is:

1) TS-100 soldering iron (65W), make sure you get the 120V adapter assuming you're in USA, I don't know what to do if you're in some third world country.

2) Soldering Rosin Flux

3) 3M high temp polyimide tape (the 1/4th inch stuff works well).  3M tape is more expensive than generic cheap tape but it's worth the price.

4) Bronze solder tip cleaner

5) 60/40 solder.  Kester solder wire is VERY high quality and I recommend that.

 

Then all you do is preheat the iron to 350C, then apply strips of kapton tape around the pins you do NOT want to solder touch up.  Apply kapton tape to every pin within 2 inches of the pin you are going to touch up with solder.  Put tape over the other pins (even the other damaged pins), so that ONLY the pin you are working on is "exposed".

This is called a "Solder mask."  You can youtube this and then you will understand how this works.

 

Then after preheating the iron, apply a small dab of solder to the end of the iron tip.

Then apply flux to the top of the gold finger you are going to touch up, all around it and spread it around with something.

Then apply the iron tip (that you tinned with the kester solder first!) to the exposed PCIE gold finger and just move it around the entire finger you are working on, so it forms a thin flat layer.  Make sure it's not thick.  Don't keep the iron still, keep moving it.  The finger should then look 'silver' instead of gold, like you 'replaced' the gold finger with a silver finger, and it should be as thick as the original layer (remember it's just a coating).

 

Then let it cool down, cover up the pin you tinned up with kapton tape and uncover the next pin and work on that as well.

 

All this being said, I honestly do not think the gold finger being tarnished is the cause of the problem.

1. Thanks for this elaborate procedure. I am really thankful.

2. My system worked for awhile and again started causing the problem. 
3. Even if I get the above items. I do not think I will be able to do the job well.

   most items are easy except for the tape. This is what i can get other i have to check on shops. 

Kapton Tape
4. The gold finger is not tarnished but scrathed. As in the gold plating is lost from that spot. 

5. I checked the specs of pci 3 and this a3 connection is +12 volts. Also a2 pin is +12 volts. I am not sure if these pins are joined together or are seprate. 

6. Now Should I take it to the service center first or get the re-tin. (Card is out of warranty Now)

 

Too much confusion. 
 

[Mark Kaine]

The problem with a service center is you need to find one that is actually good at and willing to solder something like this. 

 

On the other hand, it really shouldnt be too difficult to diy,  if time intensive. 

 

I would definitely advise to practice first... you could probably easily get cheap / defective pcbs for this.

 

And as I understand, you really just need to make sure the scratched off parts are being coated with a thin solder layer... this is really not difficult  - does require some practice for sure though... because you kinda need to know how the solder and flux behaves...

 

 

On 7/29/2021 at 6:29 AM, Falkentyne said:

Soldering Rosin Flux

Just wondering,  whats the difference to solder that already contains flux? That just seems easier to handle?

 

I did repair pcbs before,  never used "flux", cleaning the part and then soldering was enough (we had flux but I was told not to use it cause the solder already contains it, forgot the brand though)

 

[Falkentyne]

Most decent solder contains a core of flux.  This makes it possible to actually solder without it refusing to stick to anything.  You still need manual flux because you have to anti-oxidized the actual *surface* you are soldering, as well as to help "direct" the path of solder--the solder will want to migrate to the part that is freshly fluxed--that's the problem.  Solder with a flux core doesn't help much here.

[SomRush]

13 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

The problem with a service center is you need to find one that is actually good at and willing to solder something like this. 

 

On the other hand, it really shouldnt be too difficult to diy,  if time intensive. 

 

I would definitely advise to practice first... you could probably easily get cheap / defective pcbs for this.

 

And as I understand, you really just need to make sure the scratched off parts are being coated with a thin solder layer... this is really not difficult  - does require some practice for sure though... because you kinda need to know how the solder and flux behaves...

 

 

Just wondering,  whats the difference to solder that already contains flux? That just seems easier to handle?

 

I did repair pcbs before,  never used "flux", cleaning the part and then soldering was enough (we had flux but I was told not to use it cause the solder already contains it, forgot the brand though)

 

With service center I meant Authorized service center. I want to try them before anyone else just because of contamination. If they find card has been repaired at other place they don't even try it. 

Authorized service center is not too far from my place. 

Or I could try it on local electronics shop. They don't work on gpu but on mobiles and laptops.

[SomRush]

7 hours ago, Falkentyne said:

Most decent solder contains a core of flux.  This makes it possible to actually solder without it refusing to stick to anything.  You still need manual flux because you have to anti-oxidized the actual *surface* you are soldering, as well as to help "direct" the path of solder--the solder will want to migrate to the part that is freshly fluxed--that's the problem.  Solder with a flux core doesn't help much here.

 

"All this being said, I honestly do not think the gold finger being tarnished is the cause of the problem." 

can you elaborate on that. And As i said contact pad is not tarnished but scratched.

 

[Mark Kaine]

12 hours ago, Falkentyne said:

You still need manual flux because you have to anti-oxidized the actual *surface* you are soldering, as well as to help "direct" the path

I see, maybe the pcbs were "pre fluxed" or something but as said i was specifically told not to use flux -- i mean it was laying around anyways,  obviously there were cases where it would have been used  and even repairs, i just used pcb cleaner (maybe that contains flux idk) *contains aliphatic hydrocarbon? (just looked it up) 

 

And the stuff  was going to oil rigs

 amongst other things and has been rigorously tested beforehand for durability -- oh well.

 

5 hours ago, SomRush said:

With service center I meant Authorized service center.

Authorized by who?

I mean if they know what they're doing that's obviously the best choice,  i just think such facilities are often more sketchy than not, hence im skeptical.

 

But yeah, it being scratched could easily cause problems. 

 

Did you attempt to clean it and the slot with isopropyl alcohol though? That would be the first thing I'd try, as it might already fix the issue. 

 

[SomRush]

1 hour ago, Mark Kaine said:

Authorized by who?

I mean if they know what they're doing that's obviously the best choice,  i just think such facilities are often more sketchy than not, hence im skeptical.

 

But yeah, it being scratched could easily cause problems. 

 

Did you attempt to clean it and the slot with isopropyl alcohol though? That would be the first thing I'd try, as it might already fix the issue. 

 

MSI - authorized service center. I know they are sketchy but also they are better than me at diagnosing the problem.
I think the scratched pad is problem since that is what i See. I don't know for how long it has been that way. 
It is possible that something else is problem. At least they would be able to diagnose the problem. 

 

Yeah I tried cleaning the pads with alcohol. Still facing the same problem. 

[SomRush]

On 7/29/2021 at 9:59 AM, Falkentyne said:

That's not actually hard to re-tin them with solder.  It's actually easier than you think.

What you need is:

1) TS-100 soldering iron (65W), make sure you get the 120V adapter assuming you're in USA, I don't know what to do if you're in some third world country.

2) Soldering Rosin Flux

3) 3M high temp polyimide tape (the 1/4th inch stuff works well).  3M tape is more expensive than generic cheap tape but it's worth the price.

4) Bronze solder tip cleaner

5) 60/40 solder.  Kester solder wire is VERY high quality and I recommend that.

 

Then all you do is preheat the iron to 350C, then apply strips of kapton tape around the pins you do NOT want to solder touch up.  Apply kapton tape to every pin within 2 inches of the pin you are going to touch up with solder.  Put tape over the other pins (even the other damaged pins), so that ONLY the pin you are working on is "exposed".

This is called a "Solder mask."  You can youtube this and then you will understand how this works.

 

Then after preheating the iron, apply a small dab of solder to the end of the iron tip.

Then apply flux to the top of the gold finger you are going to touch up, all around it and spread it around with something.

Then apply the iron tip (that you tinned with the kester solder first!) to the exposed PCIE gold finger and just move it around the entire finger you are working on, so it forms a thin flat layer.  Make sure it's not thick.  Don't keep the iron still, keep moving it.  The finger should then look 'silver' instead of gold, like you 'replaced' the gold finger with a silver finger, and it should be as thick as the original layer (remember it's just a coating).

 

Then let it cool down, cover up the pin you tinned up with kapton tape and uncover the next pin and work on that as well.

 

All this being said, I honestly do not think the gold finger being tarnished is the cause of the problem.

MSI authorised service center people says it's gpu chip and one memory module died and cost of repairing it more than it's original cost.
21K + 3.5K = 24.5K And i bought it for ~24K