Bysiki is sold out of my waterblock, P4000 questions

[Beat_my_Laptop]

The Quadro p4000 Waterblock is sold out everywhere I look & I doubt that's going to change. That being said, I saw JayzTwoCents's video where he just installed a universal GPU cooler & a vrm cooler he had. It's obviously not very elegant but... I'm waterblocking a Quadro p4000, I'm building a workstation, fuck elegant.

Has anyone done this?

Has anyone removed the cooler from the p4000 for any reason & have experience with the card?

Any recommendations on cheap universal GPU coolers?

Cheap universal VRM coolers?

[jaslion]

Yeah the g12 was used and it can be used IF you do it properly and that does mean thermal cementing/glueing those ram and vrm heatsinks on. It is not a reversible process if you want to do it right.

[Bombastinator]

44 minutes ago, Beat_my_Laptop said:

The Quadro p4000 Waterblock is sold out everywhere I look & I doubt that's going to change. That being said, I saw JayzTwoCents's video where he just installed a universal GPU cooler & a vrm cooler he had. It's obviously not very elegant but... I'm waterblocking a Quadro p4000, I'm building a workstation, fuck elegant.

Has anyone done this?

Has anyone removed the cooler from the p4000 for any reason & have experience with the card?

Any recommendations on cheap universal GPU coolers?

Cheap universal VRM coolers?

Gpu only water blocks used to be the only way to do it.  Water locks for specific boards are often called “full coverage” blocks and tend to work better while being thinner en total. Non full coverage blocks were the standard for a long time. You will need some system to cool the rest of the board though.  This was normally done with little heat sinks attached to the chips and a fan.  Many zip ties or a bracket for said fan were often involved. This is how it is still done when attaching an AIO to a video card.  Bright side is generic water blocks tend to be a lot cheaper.  Could possibly find one for under ten bucks on China channel (alibaba etc..)

[Beat_my_Laptop]

10 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Gpu only water blocks used to be the only way to do it.  Water locks for specific boards are often called “full coverage” blocks and tend to work better while being thinner en total. Non full coverage blocks were the standard for a long time. You will need some system to cool the rest of the board though.  This was normally done with little heat sinks attached to the chips and a fan.  Many zip ties or a bracket for said fan were often involved. This is how it is still done when attaching an AIO to a video card.  Bright side is generic water blocks tend to be a lot cheaper.  Could possibly find one for under ten bucks on China channel (alibaba etc..)

Since I'm deathly terrified of leaks I'll probably opt for something more like $35 off Amazon rather than take my chances on Alibaba, get some aluminum heatsinks while I'm there

[Beat_my_Laptop]

54 minutes ago, jaslion said:

 IF you do it properly and that does mean thermal cementing/glueing those ram and vrm heatsinks on. It is not a reversible process if you want to do it right.

Why not thermal pads & a jury rigged bracket, if not a straight up ziptie?

[Bombastinator]

1 minute ago, Beat_my_Laptop said:

Since I'm deathly terrified of leaks I'll probably opt for something more like $35 off Amazon rather than take my chances on Alibaba, get some aluminum heatsinks while I'm there

If leaks are that big a deal I’ve heard of negative pressure systems.  Tech was developed for ww2 vehicles that got shot at.  A negative pressure pump and an air resovoir will suck any leak back into the tube. There are issues though.  The system is no longer open loop for one thing.  Saw a video for one such thing on this site recently so they seem to be around for computer watercooling. 

[Bombastinator]

10 minutes ago, Beat_my_Laptop said:

Why not thermal pads & a jury rigged bracket, if not a straight up ziptie?

Thermal pads are only sticky on one side.  There is also thermal double stick tape which is fairly removable.  The issue is thermal epoxy has better conductivity than tape but is permanent.  I’ve simply used rather thick non/drying thermal compound to stick on heat sinks before with decent results.  Even less permanent.  So much they can slide around if you push them and might not be a good idea if a part is set sideways.  As long as you don’t touch them and they don’t fall off it can be fine though. 

Edited June 25, 2021 by Bombastinator

[Beat_my_Laptop]

4 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

If leaks are that big a deal I’ve heard of negative pressure systems.  Tech was developed for ww2 vehicles that got shot at.  A negative pressure pump and an air resovoir will suck any leak back into the tube. There are issues though.  The system is no longer open loop for one thing.  Saw a video for one such thing on this site recently so they seem to be around for computer watercooling. 

Well I'll go be a nerd and look for negative pressure cooling loops, thanks

 

[Bombastinator]

3 minutes ago, Beat_my_Laptop said:

Well I'll go be a nerd and look for negative pressure cooling loops, thanks

 

I don’t know what they will be called exactly.  The thing I saw was an add and they werent saying how it worked and seemed to pretend they invented it.  The bubble trails were pretty indicative though.  Their pump was the topper for an open loop resovoir

[Beat_my_Laptop]

3 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

I don’t know what they will be called exactly.  The thing I saw was an add and they werent saying how it worked and seemed to pretend they invented it.  The bubble trails were pretty indicative though.  Their pump was the topper for an open loop resovoir

I have a theory that suction on a release valve above the reservoir's waterline would be the simplest way