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Fan controller burnt

Go to solution Solved by 1ntegerByt3s,

So, my fans arrived, installed them, and booted up the machine with no boot drive and used an old graphics card for testing. Everything seems to work fine, no more smoke (although I kinda smell some of it at my room and case 😅), so that's something nice to hear. I put some electrical tape on that cut from the wire to protect it. I suppose this discussion is no longer to continue any further. I will do a better job with cable management to avoid any incidents in the future. Thanks for your help.

53 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

price of fans is usually not about fire safety. That’s poor manufacture.  Even cheap fans shouldn’t do what this thing did.

 

The RGB thing I have no counterpoint to.  I can only talk about air movement stuff.
 

The price of fans is not uncommonly merely marketing, but there are some actual features to look at.  
 

air movement wise things depends heavily on their construction. There is the blade and the bearing.  What the blade is made of can matter.  I know little about that other than there was something of a revolution some years ago where new stronger materials made for blades impossible to build before.  Rigidity and resistance to vibration are what matter materials wise.  As a general rule bits on the blades such as feathering or dimples or bumps or other things do very little. The blade shape can matter though.  A fan with a heavily curved blade can behave like a blade that spins faster than it does making for more air movement before the speed where noise starts to become a thing.  Bearings I am more conversant in.  There are more or less three general types  sleeve, ball, and maglev.  Sleeve type bearings make less noise at first but more at the end. Also they’re a lot cheaper to make.  Ball type bearings make more noise at first.  Long ago they were preferred because they lasted longer.  This is no longer the case.

there are 3 types of ball bearings: 1 ball, 2 ball, and 3 ball.
ball:

 3 ball fans have the balls in the middle.  They’re fairly expensive though and are almost no longer made.  2 ball has a ball on each end with a sleeve in the middle.  They’re sort of like a louder, cheaper FDB bearing in that they can be set in any direction. 1 ball are like 2 ball except they’re missing a ball and can only be put in 2 directions.  AMD stock cooler fans are single ball. 

Sleeve:

sleeve bearing fans are simple sleeve, rifle bearing, or “FDB” which I prefer to call modified rifle because Fluid Dynamic Bearing is actually a brand name.  There are a bunch of bearing types that may be called FDB or something else that are workalikes of FDB but are not called FDB.  One is apparently LLS which is what arctic cooling often uses. 
Rifle bearings are rarely seen anymore being replaced almost entirely by FDB

Simple sleeve is kind of like a single barrel bearing where the barrel is plastic and quite large. The low end hyper212s use sleeve bearings.  Simple Sleeve bearing fans can be very very cheap.  They have a caveat though: if they are placed vertically either up or down, they wear very very fast because they lose lubrication. They have to be placed horizontally only.  Because of this they are often sold as case fans. And occasionally as cpu fans.  You won’t see them on a radiator though.  The difference between simple sleeve and rifle/FDB is they have various groove to carry the lubricant around.  Because of this they can be placed vertically in either an up or down configuration and can be quieter and last longer than double ball.  theyre sometimes also cheaper to make. 
Maglev:

maglev is also called enlobal. In thes there is no bearing technically because the parts never touch.  They are held up by a magnetic field.  These bearings require rare earth magnets and tend to be quite expensive, but they last even longer than the other types. 
 

So if all one needs is vertical case fans simple sleeve bearings aren’t that bad.  As long as they stay in correct orientation a simple sleeve fan can last 80% as long as a more expensive fan while costing half as much.  If you point one up or down though there can be problems.  Single ball fans can point up OR down depending on how they are built but not both.  Double ball and FWB fans can point up down or sideways with FWB lasting slightly longer and being slightly more quiet.  It used to be maglev had the same limitations as sleeve but that may have changed.

anyway corsair use different rgb for there fans witch has duel singles meaning 2 data lines. so if you want the full options with icue you need corsair fans or WS2813 strips or and convertor so buying corsair fans is cheaper. as to how good the air flow the rgb fans have i dont no. if you want performance and rgb you need to use rgb grills. but rgb grill is only one loop were top rgb fans can have 4 loops beaning 4 different colors per fan.

 

if you put 2 grills per fan that only give 2 loops.

Edited by thrasher_565

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

 

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

My best guess would be that you pinched a wire when putting the back panel on and caused a short to ground that was enough to burn the fan controller but not enough to trip the PSU protection. Examine all your fan wiring carefully for damaged wires.

Oh, and this looks fairly accurate because I did remember putting back the panel back before this whole mess started. I haven't done any cable management then so that might've been the case.

 

I need to know if I need to order a new case. I don't know if I can ask Rosewill for a replacement because I bought this case from a local seller.

PC specs:

Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK (NON-MAX) ATX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6GHz

RAM: 16GB (8x2) ADATA Gammix Pro

GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 3060 12GB XLR8

SSD: SAMSUNG EVO PRO 500GB nVME M.2 (boot)

SSD: PNY CS900 1TB, SAMSUNG 1TB SSD

Cooler: CoolerMaster ML240L V2 RGB AIO

PSU: EVGA 600W 80+

Case: Rosewill T500 Prism w/ 4 UpHere RGB fans

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7 minutes ago, 1ntegerByt3s said:

Oh, and this looks fairly accurate because I did remember putting back the panel back before this whole mess started. I haven't done any cable management then so that might've been the case.

 

I need to know if I need to order a new case. I don't know if I can ask Rosewill for a replacement because I bought this case from a local seller.

Shouldn’t, even if the case is scorched and melted.  Cases really only help organize components and combat dust.  If you want you can screw the components to a wall and it will still work fine.  Seen people do that.  It’s ugly, but it’s cheap, quiet, and uses no desk space.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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43 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Shouldn’t, even if the case is scorched and melted.  Cases really only help organize components and combat dust.  If you want you can screw the components to a wall and it will still work fine.  Seen people do that.  It’s ugly, but it’s cheap, quiet, and uses no desk space.

So, is that wire not going to cause any problems? I mean, it's the power button we're talking about. 

PC specs:

Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK (NON-MAX) ATX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6GHz

RAM: 16GB (8x2) ADATA Gammix Pro

GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 3060 12GB XLR8

SSD: SAMSUNG EVO PRO 500GB nVME M.2 (boot)

SSD: PNY CS900 1TB, SAMSUNG 1TB SSD

Cooler: CoolerMaster ML240L V2 RGB AIO

PSU: EVGA 600W 80+

Case: Rosewill T500 Prism w/ 4 UpHere RGB fans

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So, my fans arrived, installed them, and booted up the machine with no boot drive and used an old graphics card for testing. Everything seems to work fine, no more smoke (although I kinda smell some of it at my room and case 😅), so that's something nice to hear. I put some electrical tape on that cut from the wire to protect it. I suppose this discussion is no longer to continue any further. I will do a better job with cable management to avoid any incidents in the future. Thanks for your help.

PC specs:

Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK (NON-MAX) ATX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6GHz

RAM: 16GB (8x2) ADATA Gammix Pro

GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 3060 12GB XLR8

SSD: SAMSUNG EVO PRO 500GB nVME M.2 (boot)

SSD: PNY CS900 1TB, SAMSUNG 1TB SSD

Cooler: CoolerMaster ML240L V2 RGB AIO

PSU: EVGA 600W 80+

Case: Rosewill T500 Prism w/ 4 UpHere RGB fans

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