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Hi guys, a few days ago, I upgraded my Samsung 840 Evo firmware and immediately my PC suffered a huge FPS loss in that for example Valheim was pausing every few seconds. Then I reinstalled Windows. However, after the clean install I am having FPS issues all the time. For example, when I start playing World of Warplanes, I start off with 80 - 90 FPS, but it gradually goes down to 20 FPS, making it unplayable. For some reason, my PC seems slower overall. Since then, I reset my BIOS, just in case I messed up some settings and I only turned on XMP II. I also used DDU to reinstall my Nvidia drivers. I don't have state of the art PC as it is 3 years old now, but on the other hand I never had any issues running anything, even when I played in full screen borderless with several Edge tabs open. I turned off win 10 gaming mode and hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling, as I heard they do not help. I also have no heating issues whatsoever.

 

My system has an Asus ROG Maxmimus XI Hero, Intel Core i7 6700k and 16 GB of DDR4 1600MHz RAM and a GTX 1070 with 8GB.

 

I would really appreciate your help. Thank you.

 

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Either rollback the firmware on try another drive, sounds like the 'update' messed something up.

I'm actually one of those people who thinks that anonymity is overrated. Some people confuse privacy and anonymity and think they go hand in hand, and that protecting privacy means that you need to protect anonymity. I think that's wrong. Anonymity is important if you're a whistle-blower, but if you cannot prove your identity, your crazy rant on some social-media platform shouldn't be visible, and you shouldn't be able to share it or like it.

 

Linus Torvalds 

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Would that still happen even though i reinstalled windows? As in formatted the drive?

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yeah because that doesn't change the firmware. 

 

You could also try to 'power cycle' the drive twice , that saved my Kingston a400 , mind you it's only running 200mb/s now, but at least it's stable and doesn't make issues anymore. 

 

 

I'm actually one of those people who thinks that anonymity is overrated. Some people confuse privacy and anonymity and think they go hand in hand, and that protecting privacy means that you need to protect anonymity. I think that's wrong. Anonymity is important if you're a whistle-blower, but if you cannot prove your identity, your crazy rant on some social-media platform shouldn't be visible, and you shouldn't be able to share it or like it.

 

Linus Torvalds 

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Moreover, I found a thread in a web archive of Crucial Support Forum where a Crucial employee suggests the same fix:

Below is the procedure for a power cycle, in most cases your SSD can be returned to normal operating condition by performing the steps listed below:

  1. Find a computer that you can use for approximately 1 hour. We recommend that you try to perform this procedure on a desktop computer because it allows you to only connect the SATA power connection. This will improve the odds of the power cycle being successful. A USB enclosure with an external power source will also work.

    Apple desktop users please follow the same steps as Windows desktop users. If you don't have a desktop, a laptop will work as well. With a laptop you will want to have the drive connected and navigate to the systems BIOS menu. Please refer to your system manufacture’s documentation on how to access the BIOS. Letting the drive sit in the BIOS will improve the odds that the power cycle will work. It is not recommended to use a USB enclosure that is powered via USB. Apple laptop users will want to boot the system to the open firmware.

  2. Once you have the drive connected and sitting idle for a desktop it is simply powering the computer and waiting. Laptop user will need to be in the BIOS menu, or open firmware as stated above. The computer will need to stay powered on for 20 min, and it is recommended that you don't use the computer during this process.

  3. Power the computer down and disconnect the drive for 30 seconds.

  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 one more time.

  5. Reconnect the drive normally, and boot the computer to your operating system.

how to 'power cycle' but make that 30 minutes each instead of 20...

 

Also no guarantee of course but it is a thing...

 

The other option is to simply use another drive and see if the issue persits.  Need to remove the faulty drive first though, obviously. 

I'm actually one of those people who thinks that anonymity is overrated. Some people confuse privacy and anonymity and think they go hand in hand, and that protecting privacy means that you need to protect anonymity. I think that's wrong. Anonymity is important if you're a whistle-blower, but if you cannot prove your identity, your crazy rant on some social-media platform shouldn't be visible, and you shouldn't be able to share it or like it.

 

Linus Torvalds 

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Mark, I really appreciate your help and time and in this case it transpires I was a complete dumbass. At least I think I was. Back when I set up my computer I had two striped HDDs and later on I installed the SSD and it worked fine with no problems whatsoever. But when I did the firmware update it slowed down terribly. Then I updated BIOS and cleared to ensure I reinstall Windows afresh. I installed Windows something seemed off right away. Everything seemed to be working fine but something was off and I was started game with 90fps and then right down to 15-20 fps after a min or so. Then, in a state of complete panic, I ran Samsung Magician to benchmark my drives and it transpired that it was not on AHCI mode. Apparently, when I reset the BIOS it defaulted to Intel Optane with RST. Set it back to AHCI (I lost my striped raid disk in the process) and everything is fine. What i cannot understand is that before the updating, everything worked fine without AHCI and now it didn't. Not gonna think on that though.

 

Another oddity I have is that my Samsung 970 Evo NVMe M2 works ate the same speed whether it is set at x2 or x4 from the BIOS, but that is another story in another episode 🙂

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