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Splitting the Internet via cable splitters?

Hello.

I'm sorry for English, it's not my first language, also sorry if I posted this where it shouldn't belong or I broke some rule.

 

So I have a question about something I'm not very good at, Internet modems and routers. Last week I finally upgraded to fast internet ( well it's still slow, but I really can't get much faster where I am) but my router ( or modem, I don't quite know) can't keep up with the speed and it's limiting me to a 1/3 of a full speed. So the setup is optical modem > Wifi Router > to my PC. When I connect it directly to my PC I get the full speed, but then my Wifi is not working.

So I was thinking is there any way I could use some kind of a splitter, with one cable to my PC and other to Wifi Router?

 

Thank you, V.

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what you are looking for is called an ethernet switch. Just go to any of your online shopping sites and search for "5 port ethernet switch"

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5 minutes ago, berberries said:

what you are looking for is called an ethernet switch. Just go to any of your online shopping sites and search for "5 port ethernet switch"

Just to make sure I can connect ethrenet switch directly to my "optical" modem and from that I can connect both my PC and my Wifi router? I don't need to configure anything, it's a plug and play type of thing if I understood correctly? 

Just now, Yebi said:

It might be simpler and cheaper to buy a gigabit router. No need for a fancy one

I forgot to tell, that's not possible at the moment for various reasons. Anything that does requires me to call my Internet service is no good currently.

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1 minute ago, Prophet1c said:

I forgot to tell, that's not possible at the moment for various reasons. Anything that does requires me to call my Internet service is no good currently.

You don't need to involve the internet company to change the router. Just connect a different one the same way you connect your PC

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Modem - Router - Switch 

 

I havent done it but dont see why you cant go Modem - Switch.  I have a few switches in my home network but they all go the top route.  About to buy this one, for example, after I price check some out today (need another switch for the far side of the house)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Litewave-Unshielded-Unmanaged-LS1008G/dp/B086384H7C/ref=gbps_tit___df1ac23a?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

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My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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2 minutes ago, Prophet1c said:

Just to make sure I can connect ethrenet switch directly to my "optical" modem and from that I can connect both my PC and my Wifi router? I don't need to configure anything, it's a plug and play type of thing if I understood correctly? 

I forgot to tell, that's not possible at the moment for various reasons. Anything that does requires me to call my Internet service is no good currently.

The fact that you get internet when you plug your pc straight into the "optical modem" makes me believe that its likely an optical modem/router combo. So most likely yes.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

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5 minutes ago, Yebi said:

You don't need to involve the internet company to change the router. Just connect a different one the same way you connect your PC

I was replacing my old router few months ago and I had to call them to "enable" it, like they said. Something to do with IP.

5 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Modem - Router - Switch 

 

I havent done it but dont see why you cant go Modem - Switch.  I have a few switches in my home network but they all go the top route.  About to buy this one, for example, after I price check some out today (need another switch for the far side of the house)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Litewave-Unshielded-Unmanaged-LS1008G/dp/B086384H7C/ref=gbps_tit___df1ac23a?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wouldn't it be the same speed if I connected router > Switch?

5 minutes ago, berberries said:

The fact that you get internet when you plug your pc straight into the "optical modem" makes me believe that its likely an optical modem/router combo. So most likely yes.

I can post a pic of it:

 



spacer.png

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All a unmanaged switch is, is a passthrough (basically).  If that is a TP Link router (antennas) then where that black cable is coming off the router would be to the switch, then from the switch to all your hard wired devices

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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2 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

All a unmanaged switch is, is a passthrough (basically).  If that is a TP Link router (antennas) then where that black cable is coming off the router would be to the switch, then from the switch to all your hard wired devices

Yes, that's a TP Link router, but I can't get enough data, speed? trough it as I would like, so wouldn't it be the same as right now?

That black cable is connecting TP Link router to a PC, one white cable is connecting "optical" modem ( I'm calling it that way for no other reason than to distinguish them in my head) with TP Link router and the other white cable coming from the wall I have no idea whats it for.

 

So theoretically I could go Modem > Switch then from Switch one cable to TP router and the other to PC?

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50 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Modem - Router - Switch 

 

I havent done it but dont see why you cant go Modem - Switch.  I have a few switches in my home network but they all go the top route.  About to buy this one, for example, after I price check some out today (need another switch for the far side of the house)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Litewave-Unshielded-Unmanaged-LS1008G/dp/B086384H7C/ref=gbps_tit___df1ac23a?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

If your modem is only doing modem things, and not a combo unit basically, then going modem -> switch would meant he first device connected that asks for an IP gets the public IP and everything else gets nothing. In this case the fiber box is almost certainly more than just converting fiber to copper and has routing/switching functionality built in too.

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3 hours ago, Prophet1c said:

Last week I finally upgraded to fast internet ( well it's still slow, but I really can't get much faster where I am)

Who is your ISP? What speeds are you paying for? What is the make/model of the wall-mounted ISP devices?

 

3 hours ago, Prophet1c said:

but my router ( or modem, I don't quite know) can't keep up with the speed and it's limiting me to a 1/3 of a full speed.

The black TP-Link device is your wireless router. What is the model?

 

3 hours ago, Prophet1c said:

When I connect it directly to my PC I get the full speed, but then my Wifi is not working.

So I was thinking is there any way I could use some kind of a splitter, with one cable to my PC and other to Wifi Router?

Your thinking that wiring your PC to the wireless router is somehow affecting wireless connectivity is not how networking works. Unless it's a very underperforming router.

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6 minutes ago, Falcon1986 said:

1)Who is your ISP? What speeds are you paying for? What is the make/model of the wall-mounted ISP devices?

 

2)The black TP-Link device is your wireless router. What is the model?

 

3)Your thinking that wiring your PC to the wireless router is somehow affecting wireless connectivity is not how networking works. Unless it's a very underperforming router.

 

1) On contract it says 350/30 Megabit. Model is Dasan h665.

2) Model of the black router is TL-WR940N

3) No, I don't have the problem with WiFi, my issue is I don't get the full speed when I connect from the black router with cable to PC. I do get full speed when I connect from white modem ( wall-mounted) to a PC.

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4 hours ago, Prophet1c said:

 

1) On contract it says 350/30 Megabit. Model is Dasan h665.

2) Model of the black router is TL-WR940N

3) No, I don't have the problem with WiFi, my issue is I don't get the full speed when I connect from the black router with cable to PC. I do get full speed when I connect from white modem ( wall-mounted) to a PC.

Because the TL-WR940N only has 10/100 Mbps ports you're not going to get over 100Mbps whereas your ISP device probably has gigabit ports.

 

Edit:

My suggestion is to get a better router with gigabit (10/100/1000) ports across the board.

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15 hours ago, Lurick said:

Because the TL-WR940N only has 10/100 Mbps ports you're not going to get over 100Mbps whereas your ISP device probably has gigabit ports.

 

Edit:

My suggestion is to get a better router with gigabit (10/100/1000) ports across the board.

I don't want to be rude, but I knew that router isn't good enough, that was never the issue. I was asking is it possible to bypass it. And the answer is yes!

 

22 hours ago, berberries said:

The fact that you get internet when you plug your pc straight into the "optical modem" makes me believe that its likely an optical modem/router combo. So most likely yes.

Works like a charm! Thank you very much!

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7 minutes ago, Prophet1c said:

I don't want to be rude, but I knew that router isn't good enough, that was never the issue. I was asking is it possible to bypass it. And the answer is yes!

 

Works like a charm! Thank you very much!

The problem is, as you said, when you plug directly in the wifi doesn't work. I suspect when you plug directly into the optical modem you get a public IP address which puts your PC at much higher risk of being attacked. Additionally, if you do get a public IP address from your ISP then you're only likely to get 1 address unless you pay for more so using a switch will result in the first device that asks for an address getting the public address and the rest without.

 

Now this all assumes your optical device doesn't have any NAT or other functionality built in BUT because you say it works then that removes my theory and it is a "modem"/router combo.

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