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PC shutting down right after turning on

AncientPistol

I built a new PC couple months ago, it had a Corsair TX650M PSU but after a few weeks its capacitors popped and I had to RMA it. The new one arrived a few days ago, first couple of days it worked fine, but today when I turned it on it shut down itself in a couple of seconds. I turned it on again and it worked fine, after doing my work I shut down the PC again. Then when I turned on the PC again couple hours later, it shut down again in a second.

 

What is causing the problem? Is this PSU also faulty?

 

Edit:

I am also using a UPS rated for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged in PC, monitor and the wifi router. Could this have something to do with the problem?

 

Parts list - 

 

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When you turn it on and it turns off, does it turn itself back on again in a few seconds or does it stay off?

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Just now, Spotty said:

When you turn it on and it turns off, does it turn itself back on again in a few seconds or does it stay off?

It stays off until I push the power button again

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I have a pc with corsair tx650m psu. According to pcpartpicker the estimated wattage is 409W so even accounting for inefficiencies, power draw from wall should not be more than 500W. I have a UPS that is rated for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged the PC, the monitor (which according to manufacturer uses about 70W power) and a wifi router.

 

Yesterday, while trying to boot it up, the PC shut down itself on the boot screen. I tried powering it on again and it worked, and then after a few hours when I turned on the PC a third time and once again it shut down itself. It does not restart, but completely shuts down. I have been told to try booting up the PC without the UPS, plugging it directly in the wall to see if that is the problem. Because UPS has enough rating I thought that is probably not the problem unless the PSU can suck a lot of power for a small duration.

 

The reason I have not done it yet is because the PSU is a RMA unit, and the last time a similar situation happened, where I turned on the PC, it shut down at the time of boot but I turned it on and kept using it when a capacitor blew up with a loud pop and sparks. I was not using a UPS at that time. I am worried if it is a similar situation this time and I might end up damaging other components in the process if the same thing happens again. Also, if the UPS was the problem the monitor and wifi router should have also turned off in that case?

 

The UPS is new, from APC company and I bought it for the PC to avoid these problems again and it should be able to provide enough power for all components. I even tested it by running CPU and GPU load test at the same time for a few minutes when I booted it up for the very first time and it worked fine that time. I have enabled PBO if that is relevant, other than that and enabling XMP I have not changed anything in BIOS. 

 

What should I do next? 

 

Parts list 

 

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ram in slots 2 and 4? bios up to date?

you could try having only the pc in the ups and plug the monitor somewhere else

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Maybe something in the system is triggering short protection? PSU protection kicking in can cause sudden shutdowns. I suggest this protection because shorts blow up capacitors more often than other reasons.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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7 minutes ago, boggy77 said:

ram in slots 2 and 4? bios up to date?

you could try having only the pc in the ups and plug the monitor somewhere else

ram is in slots 2 and 4. BIOS is what arrived from factory, I did not update it because everything was working fine without updating it.

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5 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Maybe something in the system is triggering short protection? PSU protection kicking in can cause sudden shutdowns. I suggest this protection because shorts blow up capacitors more often than other reasons.

How can I figure out what that is?

 

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3 hours ago, AncientPistol said:

I have a pc with corsair tx650m psu. According to pcpartpicker the estimated wattage is 409W so even accounting for inefficiencies, power draw from wall should not be more than 500W. I have a UPS that is rated for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged the PC, the monitor (which according to manufacturer uses about 70W power) and a wifi router.

 

Yesterday, while trying to boot it up, the PC shut down itself on the boot screen. I tried powering it on again and it worked, and then after a few hours when I turned on the PC a third time and once again it shut down itself. It does not restart, but completely shuts down. I have been told to try booting up the PC without the UPS, plugging it directly in the wall to see if that is the problem. Because UPS has enough rating I thought that is probably not the problem unless the PSU can suck a lot of power for a small duration.

 

The reason I have not done it yet is because the PSU is a RMA unit, and the last time a similar situation happened, where I turned on the PC, it shut down at the time of boot but I turned it on and kept using it when a capacitor blew up with a loud pop and sparks. I was not using a UPS at that time. I am worried if it is a similar situation this time and I might end up damaging other components in the process if the same thing happens again. Also, if the UPS was the problem the monitor and wifi router should have also turned off in that case?

 

The UPS is new, from APC company and I bought it for the PC to avoid these problems again and it should be able to provide enough power for all components. I even tested it by running CPU and GPU load test at the same time for a few minutes when I booted it up for the very first time and it worked fine that time. I have enabled PBO if that is relevant, other than that and enabling XMP I have not changed anything in BIOS. 

 

What should I do next? 

 

 

When you shut it down, are you just shutting down in Windows or are you "turning off" the PSU either via the UPS power button or the switch on the back of the PSU?

 

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29 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

When you shut it down, are you just shutting down in Windows or are you "turning off" the PSU either via the UPS power button or the switch on the back of the PSU?

 

I just shut down from Windows. PSU switch and UPS both stay on. When turning on I only have to press the power button on the case

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5 hours ago, AncientPistol said:

How can I figure out what that is?

 

Shorts are unfortunately hard to locate in the scale of an entire system, wouldnt want to probe everything for their resistances

 

Btw try unplug the header on the board for the power switch and turn the system on with either a button on the board (some boards do) or short the power on pins with a screwdriver. A sticky power switch can cause sudden shutdowns (since it makes the computer think you're holding down the power button, which turns it off right away)

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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