First time Custom Waterloop Help

[Stahlmann]

Hello good people,

 

normally i'm more of an air-cooler kinda guy, but i have some money laying around and i'm thinking about trying to build a custom loop for my system. Problem is, i don't know much about it but i'm happy to learn everything i can.

 

Full Specs are in my signature. The only thing i'm planning to change is a new GPU. I'm thinking of either a 3080 or a 3090 depending if there is much more performance with the 3090. Maybe I'll get a different more modern looking case aswell but i'm still thinking about that one. I plan to cool my CPU and GPU in 1 loop. Also i'll overclock both as far as they'll go stable. My 3700X will consume ~125W overclocked to 4.4GHz (max stable on air). The GPU will be either a 320W or 350W model. My target is to go completely silent with fans (either noctua or arctic's) to stay at ~700-800 RPM at max load. Also i plan on using non-transparent black soft-tubing.

 

Now to my questions:

How many radiators will i need and how big should they be? (Lenght and thickness)

Whats the difference between D5 and DDC pumps?

Any recommendations for nice parts which don't completely break the bank? I don't want any RGB and thus i am not willing to pay for RGB components just to turn it off through software.

Is there a benefit to having a bigger reservoir?

Are there any AIB models of the 3080 confirmed to ship with a waterblock installed?

What coolant is recommended for the lowest possible maintenance? I've heard destilled water is the best in this regard.

Do i need to put anything into the coolant to keep it from building up gunk?

In what intervals is it recommended to completely drain and clean the loop?

Any case recommendation for a first-time watercooling builder?

 

My budget is not directly limited, but i only want to buy what i really need. I want a blackout-type look to my pc afterwards and not spend anything on RGB or other useless stuff that ends up turned off.

 

I'm greatful for any help or tips i can get!

[Bananasplit_00]

36 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Any recommendations for nice parts which don't completely break the bank? I don't want any RGB and thus i am not willing to pay for RGB components just to turn it off through software.

Take a look at Watercools Heatkiller blocks, probably going to take a little while from launch of the 3000 series until they are available but they are very very very good.

37 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

In what intervals is it recommended to completely drain and clean the loop?

once every six months if you want it to be the cleanest, once a year if you are a little lazy.

38 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Any case recommendation for a first-time watercooling builder?

Anything with plenty of space, Lian Li PC-O11 for example(which is what im rocking atm, its really nice to build in)

[For Science!]

35 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

 

 

Now to my questions:

How many radiators will i need and how big should they be? (Lenght and thickness)

Whats the difference between D5 and DDC pumps?

Any recommendations for nice parts which don't completely break the bank? I don't want any RGB and thus i am not willing to pay for RGB components just to turn it off through software.

Is there a benefit to having a bigger reservoir?

Are there any AIB models of the 3080 confirmed to ship with a waterblock installed?

What coolant is recommended for the lowest possible maintenance? I've heard destilled water is the best in this regard.

Do i need to put anything into the coolant to keep it from building up gunk?

In what intervals is it recommended to completely drain and clean the loop?

Any case recommendation for a first-time watercooling

1. As many and as big (length and thickness) the case would allow it to be

2. D5 is a better pump but it is really chonky, if you can fit it D5, otherwise DDC

3. Hardware Labs, Watercool

4. More thermal mass, easier to fill system

5. EVGA definitely, MSI usually makes one too

6. Something like EK-CryoFuel transparent (Distilled water + biocides + anticorrosive)

7. Not if it’s already a good coolant, I personally don’t recommend brewing your own coolant just like how you don’t brew your own toothpaste

8. I do preventative maintenance every year, but that’s quite safe, longer is probably fine

9. Decide on form factor and case volume first

[Stahlmann]

2 minutes ago, For Science! said:

1. As many and as big (length and thickness) the case would allow it to be

2. D5 is a better pump but it is really chonky, if you can fit it D5, otherwise DDC

3. Hardware Labs, Watercool

4. More thermal mass, easier to fill system

5. EVGA definitely, MSI usually makes one too

6. Something like EK-CryoFuel transparent (Distilled water + biocides + anticorrosive)

7. Not if it’s already a good coolant, I personally don’t recommend brewing your own coolant just like how you don’t brew your own toothpaste

8. I do preventative maintenance every year, but that’s quite safe, longer is probably fine

9. Decide on form factor and case volume first

Thanks for your answers! A few more questions about that:

1. Isn't there a big deminishing return if i have multiple radiators? For example 1 radiator at the top which sucks in the warm air from a radiator in the front?

2. What do you mean with better pump? Can you be more specific?

9. Form factor will be ATX mid tower. Any recommendations apart from the LianLi O11? I know this is a great case but i want to see the options.

21 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Take a look at Watercools Heatkiller blocks, probably going to take a little while from launch of the 3000 series until they are available but they are very very very good.

once every six months if you want it to be the cleanest, once a year if you are a little lazy.

Anything with plenty of space, Lian Li PC-O11 for example(which is what im rocking atm, its really nice to build in)

I know the O11 is a great case for watercooling, but i'd like to see some options that are equally as good. Any other recommendations?

[For Science!]

Just now, Stahlmann98 said:

Thanks for your answers! A few more questions about that:

1. Isn't there a big deminishing return if i have multiple radiators? For example 1 radiator at the top which sucks in the warm air from a radiator in the front?

2. What do you mean with better pump? Can you be more specific?

9. Form factor will be ATX mid tower. Any recommendations apart from the LianLi O11? I know this is a great case but i want to see the options.

1. Not really as case ambient is almost always lower temperature than the fluid temperature in a full custom loop. Also with a full custom loop, its not insane to have all the radiators in exhaust and have 1 or 2 fans for unobstructed intake so that you can throw all the heat directly out of the case instead of putting it through the case one.

 

2. D5 is  a quieter pump for the same flow (albeit with less head pressure), also it is watercooled so requires no additional airflow on itself for sustained life (DDC benefits from having a heatsink and airflow). DDC's are generally considered quite "whiny"

 

9. Best small ATX mid tower = Meshify C (my opinion), larger mid towers......I guess O11 dynamic, Meshify S2

[Lipe123]

8 hours ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Now to my questions:

How many radiators will i need and how big should they be? (Lenght and thickness)

Whats the difference between D5 and DDC pumps?

Any recommendations for nice parts which don't completely break the bank? I don't want any RGB and thus i am not willing to pay for RGB components just to turn it off through software.

Is there a benefit to having a bigger reservoir?

Are there any AIB models of the 3080 confirmed to ship with a waterblock installed?

What coolant is recommended for the lowest possible maintenance? I've heard destilled water is the best in this regard.

Do i need to put anything into the coolant to keep it from building up gunk?

In what intervals is it recommended to completely drain and clean the loop?

Any case recommendation for a first-time watercooling builder?

•  I'd say 240mm per component, as thick as you can fit and afford, the thicker ones don't really offer double the performance though
• I've only every used D5's mine has a variable speed knobby thing and i set it to about 1/2 speed and its whisper quiet.
• I'd say n the past I've managed to get good deals on bitspower fittings, there are more options lately like the chinese bykski brand and possibly others?
• Bigger res does give you more thermal mass but it really only needs to be there so air bubbles has somewhere to go and the pump can suck coolant without issues. Any size is fine, its 50% functionality and aesthetics.
• no idea, prob evga like others mentioned.
• I use distilled water and vehicle coolant roughly 50/50 mix because the coolant is pretty thick and hard to pump. My theory is if your car is fine with it for 10+ years it will require very little maintenance.
• You can't only run distilled water, you will get algae so if you plan to go that route you need some kinda biocide.
• Depends on the fluid, I never drain mine for maintenance, only for hardware upgrades.
• Cases really depend on how you want it to look etc. I love my thermaltake V21 https://www.thermaltake.com/core-v21.html but its a fat boy so you need more desk space.

 

[-rascal-]

12 hours ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Hello good people,

 

normally i'm more of an air-cooler kinda guy, but i have some money laying around and i'm thinking about trying to build a custom loop for my system. Problem is, i don't know much about it but i'm happy to learn everything i can.

 

Full Specs are in my signature. The only thing i'm planning to change is a new GPU. I'm thinking of either a 3080 or a 3090 depending if there is much more performance with the 3090. Maybe I'll get a different more modern looking case aswell but i'm still thinking about that one. I plan to cool my CPU and GPU in 1 loop. Also i'll overclock both as far as they'll go stable. My 3700X will consume ~125W overclocked to 4.4GHz (max stable on air). The GPU will be either a 320W or 350W model. My target is to go completely silent with fans (either noctua or arctic's) to stay at ~700-800 RPM at max load. Also i plan on using non-transparent black soft-tubing.

 

Now to my questions:

How many radiators will i need and how big should they be? (Lenght and thickness)

Whats the difference between D5 and DDC pumps?

Any recommendations for nice parts which don't completely break the bank? I don't want any RGB and thus i am not willing to pay for RGB components just to turn it off through software.

Is there a benefit to having a bigger reservoir?

Are there any AIB models of the 3080 confirmed to ship with a waterblock installed?

What coolant is recommended for the lowest possible maintenance? I've heard destilled water is the best in this regard.

Do i need to put anything into the coolant to keep it from building up gunk?

In what intervals is it recommended to completely drain and clean the loop?

Any case recommendation for a first-time watercooling builder?

 

My budget is not directly limited, but i only want to buy what i really need. I want a blackout-type look to my pc afterwards and not spend anything on RGB or other useless stuff that ends up turned off.

 

I'm greatful for any help or tips i can get!

 

11 hours ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Thanks for your answers! A few more questions about that:

1. Isn't there a big deminishing return if i have multiple radiators? For example 1 radiator at the top which sucks in the warm air from a radiator in the front?

2. What do you mean with better pump? Can you be more specific?

9. Form factor will be ATX mid tower. Any recommendations apart from the LianLi O11? I know this is a great case but i want to see the options.

I know the O11 is a great case for watercooling, but i'd like to see some options that are equally as good. Any other recommendations?

 

 

1)

Yes, at a certain point, diminishing returns.

If you are using 960mm (120mm x8 worth of radiator versus 360mm (120mm x3) of radiator JUST for a CPU, the difference is like....nothing. 

If you have good overall case airflow, top radiator sucking in warm / hot air isn't going to affect your temperatures much at all -- if any.

I don't remember what it was but the "general rule" was 120mm, then additional 120mm minimum for every extra component.

CPU: 120 + 120 = 240mm

CPU + GPU = 360mm

CPU + 2x GPUs = 480mm

 

2)

D5 pumps are the way to go these days.

More pros than (minor) cons to use a D5 over DDC.

 

3)

I've only used EKwb parts, but then again, I've only done custom loop water cooling for a couple years.

Most of the people I know use EKwb as well, some will mix in BitsPower and Alphacool parts.

EKwb works, and quite reliably so far, for me...I'll use what works best.

Uhh...Corsair is still relatively new to the game, so personally not sure about them at the moment...

 

You don't need to get RGB parts; should be options.

IMO too much rainbow color cycling RGB is...makes it an eye sore.

I have RGB components, so I can change the color theme when I get bored of it.

I don't know...Christmas season comes around, and change build to a Red + Green, from my current Red + White theme.

Not feeling the Red...change it up to Purple or Blue.

 

4)

Bigger reservoir? Already mentioned; more thermal mass, takes a bit longer time for the temperature to reach steady-state / equilibrium.

It just delays it, but overall liquid temperature will equalize sooner or later -- let it be 2 hours, or 3 hours.

Unless you are pumping in fresh liquid...from free running water source or something.

 

5)

From what I read, EVGA already has SKUs for the RTX 3080 (?) and RTX 3090 with water blocks pre-attached.

Will have to see if / when they actually pop up at retail.

 

6 / 7 /

Distilled water with biocide + anti-corrosion inhibitors is fine. You can add a couple drops of dye if you don't like the clear liquid. Premix is also fine.

Whether you use pure distilled water, dyed premix, or fancy opaque / pastel color liquid, regular maintenance is required.

Typically every 6 ~ 12 months (e.g. once or twice a year).

Drain the loop, and refill, clean the blocks if any build-up, etc.

 

Distilled water and couple mL of this. Add a few drops of dye if you want:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-concentrate-100ml

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-dye-pack

 

Colored premix if you want:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-navy-blue-premix-1000ml

 

Or colored tubing, and distilled water, etc.

 

9)

Most mid tower ATX cases can / will accommodate at least a single 240mm / 280mm / 360mm radiator with ease.

Now with cases with removable HDD cages and such, you could do 240/280mm at the top, and another at the front.

If you want lots of radiator space, full tower just has more space to work with.

 

Couple of mid-tower recommendations:

Phanteks P500A (there is standard and ARGB version):  http://phanteks.com/Eclipse-P500A.html

Phanteks P600S: http://phanteks.com/Eclipse-P600s.html

BeQuiet Pure Base 500DX (IMO more compact chassis, single 240/280/360mm radiator chassis): https://www.bequiet.com/en/case/1854

Lian-Li Lancool II Mesh: https://www.lian-li.com/lancool-ii-mesh-performance/

 

There are a couple of higher-end cases where the chassis is NOT riveted together, but rather, assembled with screws.

You can disassemble / modify the case to however you need.

Example, my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe is one.

 

Before I moved the cooling loop over (PC had been running in 'debug' mode on top of the motherboard box for like a solid year prior  )

Spoiler

 

 

 

[Stahlmann]

@-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123

 

Thanks for all the input!

 

I will be keeping my CoolerMaster H500, as it's already a case with great airflow and plenty space to work with.

In terms of rads i'll be going with a 360mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad in the top including 6 total Noctua NF-F12 chromax fans as i already have 3 of them. As for the reservoir/pump, i'll get a D5 combo and mount it on the front rad. I will still wait with buying everything until there is a card with a pre-attached waterblock or there is a waterblock from EK, etc... available. I've changed out my GPU coolers in the past, so i guess mounting a waterblock myself won't be an issue. I'll probably get most stuff like fittings, tubing, coolant rads from alphacool or EK.

 

I know most of you do hard tubing, but i still want to use non-transparent soft tubing, as it's not that much about the looks for me. For me it will be about silencing my system. With these TDP numbers from the 3080/3090 i can't imagine any air-cooler (even aftermarket ones) keeping temps in check while being inaudible. I pretty much wan't to sit next to my pc without headphones and not be able to tell if it's running other than the power LED.

 

A few last questions:

I noticed there are different tube diameters. Which is the most universal or best to work with?

What about pump noise? Can i really run a D5 completely silent? Like i said earlier, i don't want to hear the system at all, even when gaming.

Do i need to get any tools?

Any more tips or recommendations you want to give to a first-time watercooling-builder?

[For Science!]

33 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

@-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123

 

Thanks for all the input!

 

I will be keeping my CoolerMaster H500, as it's already a case with great airflow and plenty space to work with.

In terms of rads i'll be going with a 360mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad in the top including 6 total Noctua NF-F12 chromax fans as i already have 3 of them. As for the reservoir/pump, i'll get a D5 combo and mount it on the front rad. I will still wait with buying everything until there is a card with a pre-attached waterblock or there is a waterblock from EK, etc... available. I've changed out my GPU coolers in the past, so i guess mounting a waterblock myself won't be an issue. I'll probably get most stuff like fittings, tubing, coolant rads from alphacool or EK.

 

I know most of you do hard tubing, but i still want to use non-transparent soft tubing, as it's not that much about the looks for me. For me it will be about silencing my system. With these TDP numbers from the 3080/3090 i can't imagine any air-cooler (even aftermarket ones) keeping temps in check while being inaudible. I pretty much wan't to sit next to my pc without headphones and not be able to tell if it's running other than the power LED.

 

A few last questions:

I noticed there are different tube diameters. Which is the most universal or best to work with?

What about pump noise? Can i really run a D5 completely silent? Like i said earlier, i don't want to hear the system at all, even when gaming.

Do i need to get any tools?

Any more tips or recommendations you want to give to a first-time watercooling-builder?

There isnt a standard for tube dimension, get what works with fittings you decide to get. Thicker tube (ID/OD difference) is less likely to kink, but you have to do wider arc.

 

Noise depends on your distance, and as it gets closer to silence other things can become more noticeable such as coil whine. I dont hear my system when there is sound playing, but when i work silently i can heaf things like a small whine from the D5 as well as gpu coil whine

 

For soft tubing, sharp scissors is probablt enough to geg going

 

If you consider doing hardline in future, do it from the beginning, my advicr.

[-rascal-]

3 hours ago, Stahlmann98 said:

@-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123

 

Thanks for all the input!

 

I will be keeping my CoolerMaster H500, as it's already a case with great airflow and plenty space to work with.

In terms of rads i'll be going with a 360mm rad in the front and a 240mm rad in the top including 6 total Noctua NF-F12 chromax fans as i already have 3 of them. As for the reservoir/pump, i'll get a D5 combo and mount it on the front rad. I will still wait with buying everything until there is a card with a pre-attached waterblock or there is a waterblock from EK, etc... available. I've changed out my GPU coolers in the past, so i guess mounting a waterblock myself won't be an issue. I'll probably get most stuff like fittings, tubing, coolant rads from alphacool or EK.

 

I know most of you do hard tubing, but i still want to use non-transparent soft tubing, as it's not that much about the looks for me. For me it will be about silencing my system. With these TDP numbers from the 3080/3090 i can't imagine any air-cooler (even aftermarket ones) keeping temps in check while being inaudible. I pretty much wan't to sit next to my pc without headphones and not be able to tell if it's running other than the power LED.

 

A few last questions:

I noticed there are different tube diameters. Which is the most universal or best to work with?

What about pump noise? Can i really run a D5 completely silent? Like i said earlier, i don't want to hear the system at all, even when gaming.

Do i need to get any tools?

Any more tips or recommendations you want to give to a first-time watercooling-builder?

 

Depending on the size of the reservoir and pump combo, it could obstruct some of the airflow going through the front 240mm radiator.

The D5 pump/res combos usually has a mounting bracket where you can mount it anywhere that has a 120mm fan mount.

If you have nowhere to easily mount it somewhere else within the case (e.g. bottom 120mm fan mount inside the case), back of a radiator is fine.

 

It looks like the Founder's Edition RTX 3080 / 3090 DOES NOT use a reference PCB.

So...I don't know what is going to happen.

I guess we won't know until the cards officially launch.

 

The AIB (e.g. ASUS ROG StriX, EVGA FTW, MSi Gaming X) versions of the RTX 3080 / 3090 will use 3-fan coolers.

Some photos were leaked / released.

Spoiler

 

 

I personally still used soft tubing. Haven't had the need / desire to switch to hard-line tubing.

Also believe there are still a lot of soft tubing users too.

 

Tools?

Basic screw drivers and bits..pretty much to mount radiator / case fans.

A sharp knife or scissors to cut the tubing.

Distilled water + pure/white vinegar to rinse out the reservoir / pump / radiator / tubing / block.

Something to fill the reservoir with coolant.

 

Some tips...

For prepping the radiator and such (step BEFORE you build)....

• Flush the radiator with 50/50 white/pure vinegar + hot/warm distilled water, couple of times, until the water coming out is clear (e.g. no bits, or blue color, etc)
• Flush/clean with 50/50 white/pure vinegar + distilled water on the CPU block, and GPU block as well, once or twice
• Flush tubing + pump/res combo with distilled water, once or twice is fine 

** Make sure you rinse/flush the vinegar out with distilled water, so no vinegar is left **

*** Do not use regular tap water ***

[Stahlmann]

5 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

On 9/3/2020 at 10:18 AM, Bananasplit_00 said:

 

23 hours ago, Lipe123 said:

 

8 hours ago, For Science! said:

 

Alright, thanks for all the help! I'll definetly get back to you on how it all turned out when i finally did it. In terms of tools i have everything you mentioned on hand. Please have a look at this parts list and tell me if i missed something apart from the GPU/GPU-Waterblock. Is everything i need to build my loop included or did i forget something?

(Note, i already have 3 of these noctua fans and plenty of destilled water on hand to complete the setup) 

[For Science!]

Drain system (ball valve, T-splitter, stop plug). And one more liter of coolant. 

[Stahlmann]

17 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Drain system (ball valve, T-splitter, stop plug). And one more liter of coolant. 

Everything in check now?

 

[For Science!]

I would think you need two male-to-male fitting (the phanteks one) one to get the T-splitter onto something and then one more to get the ball valve onto the T-splitter. Unless you were planning to use tubing and normal fittings.

 

Otherwise I think it looks ok to me

[Stahlmann]

1 minute ago, For Science! said:

I would think you need two male-to-male fitting (the phanteks one) one to get the T-splitter onto something and then one more to get the ball valve onto the T-splitter. Unless you were planning to use tubing and normal fittings.

 

Otherwise I think it looks ok to me

I was thinking to use them in this order:

Pump > Phanteks Fitting > T-Splitter > Split into Drain and GPU tube

(mounting the drain towards the window and use the other end of the T-splitter to install a normal EK-fitting towards the 90° fitting into GPU)

 

Man all this planning 

[For Science!]

3 minutes ago, Stahlmann98 said:

I was thinking to use them in this order:

Pump > Phanteks Fitting > T-Splitter > Split into Drain and GPU tube

(mounting the drain towards the window and use the other end of the T-splitter to install a normal EK-fitting towards the 90° fitting into GPU)

 

Man all this planning 

Up to you, but I would make sure to hide the drain system from view at all costs, its never a good look to have your drain tube hanging out in public. I have mine connected to the radiator in the basement well out of view from the front.

 

[Stahlmann]

4 minutes ago, For Science! said:

 

Do i really need a drain system? Cant i just tip the case over so no coolant can end up in the case and remove 1 of the plugs from the reservoir and let it drain?

My case only has half of a basement, so no real place to hide a drain.

Many of the watercooled builds from LTT and other youtubers don't include drains.

[For Science!]

1 minute ago, Stahlmann98 said:

Do i really need a drain system? Cant i just tip the case over so no coolant can end up in the case and remove 1 of the plugs from the reservoir and let it drain?

My case only has half of a basement, so no real place to hide a drain.

Many of the watercooled builds from LTT and other youtubers don't include drains.

If you think you can manage, sure. You can also unmount the pump and tip it over outside of the case. Just be aware that other show builds (LTT and Youtube) aren't for the purpose of serviceability and practicality, they are primarily to look good for that one video, and then who cares how easy or not it is to drain.

[Stahlmann]

Just now, For Science! said:

If you think you can manage, sure. You can also unmount the pump and tip it over outside of the case. Just be aware that other show builds (LTT and Youtube) aren't for the purpose of serviceability and practicality, they are primarily to look good for that one video, and then who cares how easy or not it is to drain.

Got it. Thanks for your help with this. I think i'm gonna leave out the drain and see how it works for me. I'll normally only drain it around once a year from what you guys told me. So i don't really care if it's a bit more difficult.

[-rascal-]

@Stahlmann98 The 1000mL of EKwb liquid in your shopping cart appears to be a pre-mix.

Meaning you just pour that into your loop -- no need to add more distilled water or anti-corrosion, etc.

 

If you want to use your distilled water, you'll need to use/add some of this concentrate into the mix.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-clear-concentrate-100ml

 

Other then that, looks like you've got everything...

[Stahlmann]

@-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123

 

Just a heads-up for you guys. Thank you again for all your help. With the arrival of my 3080 and the waterblock i could finally finish this upgrade. Everything worked flawlessly and i even had a convenient place to put a drain. No leaks whatsoever.

 

Temps with Furmark CPU & GPU burner active at the same time and after the water hitting equilibrium:

CPU (3700X) stays at ~60°C while running stock

GPU (3080) stays at ~52°C while OCed to 2,15GHz core and 12,5GHz memory. (Gotta say my PNY 3080 is an excellent overclocker. I didn't expect to hit stable 2150MHz at all!)

 

Pump stays at 1500RPM, fans run at 500RPM and then slowly climbing as soon as the water temp rises above 40°C until reaching full speed at 50°C. Water equilibrium now is at ~42°C  with fans running at ~800RPM with both CPU and GPU running Furmark. So my goal to hit great temps and a absolutely silent system both worked out great.

 

I still have to work more on my cable management, but first i wanted to test the newly put together loop. I don't regret going full costom watercooling at all!

[-rascal-]

19 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

@-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123

 

Just a heads-up for you guys. Thank you again for all your help. With the arrival of my 3080 and the waterblock i could finally finish this upgrade. Everything worked flawlessly and i even had a convenient place to put a drain. No leaks whatsoever.

 

Temps with Furmark CPU & GPU burner active at the same time and after the water hitting equilibrium:

CPU (3700X) stays at ~60°C while running stock

GPU (3080) stays at ~52°C while OCed to 2,15GHz core and 12,5GHz memory. (Gotta say my PNY 3080 is an excellent overclocker. I didn't expect to hit stable 2150MHz at all!)

 

Pump stays at 1500RPM, fans run at 500RPM and then slowly climbing as soon as the water temp rises above 40°C until reaching full speed at 50°C. Water equilibrium now is at ~42°C  with fans running at ~800RPM with both CPU and GPU running Furmark. So my goal to hit great temps and a absolutely silent system both worked out great.

 

I still have to work more on my cable management, but first i wanted to test the newly put together loop. I don't regret going full costom watercooling at all!

 

Congrats!!

Wow, those are pretty good temperature numbers.

 

Just curious, what is the thickness of your two radiators?

I'm thinking of revamping my own loop, to add another radiator in the front, and put my Sapphire NITRO+ S.E. 5700 XT under water, too.

(Considering that I usually skip 2 ~ 3 generations before upgrading my GPU, next upgrade would be RDNA2+ or  or RNDA3 or something)

[Stahlmann]

1 minute ago, -rascal- said:

Congrats!!

Thank you!

 

1 minute ago, -rascal- said:

Wow, those are pretty good temperature numbers.

 

Just curious, what is the thickness of your two radiators?

I'm thinking of revamping my own loop, to add another radiator in the front, and put my Sapphire NITRO+ S.E. 5700 XT under water, too.

(Considering that I usually skip 2 ~ 3 generations before upgrading my GPU, next upgrade would be RDNA2+ or  or RNDA3 or something)

Just standard 30mm EK slim radiators. A 360mm in the front and a 240mm on top.