Threads on fitting question

[airborne spoon]

First let me say I'm probably overthinking this.

My new build will have the 3 way adapter coming right out of the pump for the drain spigot. I want the straight line to go from the pump to the exit and the 90 degree out to go up onto my build. When I thread the fitting into the pump my 90 degree opening is facing down and I want it to face up. How do I make it do that?

I thought I could just cut off 180 degrees of threads on the fitting, but after I did there was literally no change to the hole location.

Look at the picture left is what I have, right is what I want.

[For Science!]

45 minutes ago, airborne spoon said:

First let me say I'm probably overthinking this.

My new build will have the 3 way adapter coming right out of the pump for the drain spigot. I want the straight line to go from the pump to the exit and the 90 degree out to go up onto my build. When I thread the fitting into the pump my 90 degree opening is facing down and I want it to face up. How do I make it do that?

I thought I could just cut off 180 degrees of threads on the fitting, but after I did there was literally no change to the hole location.

Look at the picture left is what I have, right is what I want.

 

You need a M-M rotary fitting, basically a fitting that lets you rotate it even after tightening. They are a bit more expensive than non-rotary fittings, but for the added functionality, you gotta pay up.

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel

[Guest]

As long as the o-ring does its job and is snug, shouldn't be a problem. 

 

If it seems a tad loose, a little thread tape will tighten it up and also help prevent a leak. 

[airborne spoon]

40 minutes ago, For Science! said:

You need a M-M rotary fitting, basically a fitting that lets you rotate it even after tightening. They are a bit more expensive than non-rotary fittings, but for the added functionality, you gotta pay up.

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel

I am familiar with those, I was trying to avoid spending 20 bucks or more for one stupid fitting. Shipping is ludacris for everyone, and Amazon only sells a 4 pack. Or if I bought a 3 way with a rotary bit it's still 25 bucks on Amazon or 13+ shipping from anywhere else.

How does cutting threads off not change the end location of where it is when tightened?

What about cutting threads off the female side? Or cutting threads off the backside of the male side?

[Guest]

1 hour ago, airborne spoon said:

I am familiar with those, I was trying to avoid spending 20 bucks or more for one stupid fitting. Shipping is ludacris for everyone, and Amazon only sells a 4 pack. Or if I bought a 3 way with a rotary bit it's still 25 bucks on Amazon or 13+ shipping from anywhere else.

How does cutting threads off not change the end location of where it is when tightened?

What about cutting threads off the female side? Or cutting threads off the backside of the male side?

I suppose you'd pay very close attention to where the threads start and meet. Cut 180 deg off at the very end could work. Gently file the end of the thread inward taper, should work ok.

 

Muck it up, I guess you just get the swivel fittings. However I think my original idea would be the easiest cheap route.

[Blai5e]

1 hour ago, airborne spoon said:

How does cutting threads off not change the end location of where it is when tightened?

You are not changing where the thread bottoms out (goes tight); only where you first engage the threads.

[airborne spoon]

5 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

I suppose you'd pay very close attention to where the threads start and meet. Cut 180 deg off at the very end could work. Gently file the end of the thread inward taper, should work ok.

 

Muck it up, I guess you just get the swivel fittings. However I think my original idea would be the easiest cheap route.

I got mad Dremel skills, so cutting threads off and trimming the end bit is pretty easy.

I tried cutting off 180 off the start because that makes sense. But yet the end point didn't change. I don't know why this didn't work.

Should I cut off 180 worth of the female side?

[Guest]

2 minutes ago, airborne spoon said:

I got mad Dremel skills, so cutting threads off and trimming the end bit is pretty easy.

I tried cutting off 180 off the start because that makes sense. But yet the end point didn't change. I don't know why this didn't work.

Should I cut off 180 worth of the female side?

It may not have worked because of the number of turns. In theory it should have.

 

I wouldn't take a dremel to the female side though. That acrylic will melt and make a mess. 

[airborne spoon]

2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

It may not have worked because of the number of turns. In theory it should have.

 

I wouldn't take a dremel to the female side though. That acrylic will melt and make a mess. 

I was thinking more along the lines of cutting the junction block, but it would be easier to cut the acrylic. I can just throw that on the sanding block and polish it back up.

 

[Guest]

Gonna be honest, I wouldn't do it. One slip, kiss it good bye. That dremel will go through it easier than a hot butter knife.

 

Keep working on the thread idea. 

 

But give practice.

 

On a bottle, with 3-5 thread cap, make a mark that lines up when it's shut.

 

Take the cap off, flip it a few times in your hand, put it back on.

Do the lines meet up, or in different locations? 

How did that starting point and end point change? 

edit

you can do this with a nut and bolt too.

[Lipe123]

Bro get a rotary 90 degree fitting  

 

Trying to mess with the threads to change where it bottoms out is a recipe for leaking and struggling I think.

[airborne spoon]

1 hour ago, Lipe123 said:

Bro get a rotary 90 degree fitting  

 

Trying to mess with the threads to change where it bottoms out is a recipe for leaking and struggling I think.

Because as I said already spending 20 bucks or more for one little fitting is far from economic.

Playing with my Dremel and all my other random tools in my garage is more fun. And mildly educational, logically if a thread starts at a different point it should end the same difference of a point.

[Lipe123]

You're forgetting that it also has to do with how deep the thread screws in.

I don't really know how you do that math but the point is, it's not as easy as just changing the starting point because you also decrease the distance travelled by removing thread.

 

Ps. watercooling and saving money are mostly polar opposites.