First custom loop normal temps?

[DominicNikon]

Hello, I just finished building my first custom loop for my cpu and i was wondering if these temperatures sound normal for it because idk what to expect. I have a ryzen 3950x on a static overclock of 4.32ghz 1.35vcore with turbo loadline so it goes up to 1.39V underload and 1900 infinity fabric over all 16 cores on a gigabyte aorus xtreme with a 50mm thick 360mm radiator with 3 fans at 1000rpm on idle and 2000rpm under load. The tempature of the cpu package while idle is 45-50C and gaming is 60C blender/cinebench is 90C and the water tempature is 33C average. 

[SSOB]

1 minute ago, DominicNikon said:

Hello, I just finished building my first custom loop for my cpu and i was wondering if these temperatures sound normal for it because idk what to expect. I have a ryzen 3950x on a static overclock of 4.32ghz 1.35vcore with turbo loadline so it goes up to 1.39V underload and 1900 infinity fabric over all 16 cores on a gigabyte aorus xtreme with a 50mm thick 360mm radiator with 3 fans at 1000rpm on idle and 2000rpm under load. The tempature of the cpu package while idle is 45-50C and gaming is 60C blender/cinebench is 90C and the water tempature is 33C average. 

90 is a bit too hot, if not way too hot. A proper loop shouldn't exceed 75 degrees tbh. What block are you using? You can always try to re-apply the the block and use less thermal paste I'd say this is most likely the problem. Try to use sth like a good artic silver thermal paste and see how that goes. Hard to say at this point but 90 is too much if you put that much effort into a custom loop imo

[DominicNikon]

6 minutes ago, SSOB said:

90 is a bit too hot, if not way too hot. A proper loop shouldn't exceed 75 degrees tbh. What block are you using? You can always try to re-apply the the block and use less thermal paste I'd say this is most likely the problem. Try to use sth like a good artic silver thermal paste and see how that goes. Hard to say at this point but 90 is too much if you put that much effort into a custom loop imo

The block is a corsair XC7 using its stock thermal paste that comes pre-applied.  I can try using aftermarket thermal paste but is it possible that i just dont have enough radiator space for the overclock i have applied?  the cpu pulls 210 watts so it might be a warm chip since its 7nm with 16 cores?

[DominicNikon]

Just now, Intel Fanboy said:

Any chip, 90 is too hot, should stay below 70. Is water being pumped through the system quickly enough (pump speed) try applying the aftermarket thermal paste. Also is the radiator 360mm? 

pump is running full speed. the radiator is a hardware labs blackice GTR 360mm

[DominicNikon]

Just now, Intel Fanboy said:

Is your radiator doing a push or pull? What is pump's speed?

Push with fans at 2000rpm and 4.2 mmh20 static pressure. The pump is a d5 at 4700rpm. Also should I get you the temperatures while the CPU is stock for more info?

[DominicNikon]

Just now, Intel Fanboy said:

How many case fans does your case have?

6 intake 4 exhaust (3 on the radiator) 

[DominicNikon]

3 minutes ago, Intel Fanboy said:

I'd try doing a pull on the radiator. How many gallons per minute is your pump doing? 

the pumps doing about 3.52 gallons per minute 

[DominicNikon]

6 minutes ago, Intel Fanboy said:

Check the tubing in your system. Check for clogged pipes near the fittings or any kinks in the tubing. 

Theres no noticeable kinks and no clogs. Its been running for less then a week with clear ek fluid so i dont think theres any thing to even clog it with since i did flush the radiator out

[DominicNikon]

1 minute ago, Intel Fanboy said:

is there a GPU in this loop? Did you apply aftermarket thermal paste or use the one on the block?

there is not yet a gpu in the loop. I just purchased a 30mm thick 480 radiator that i will be putting into the loop once i get my rtx 2080 super. I used the thermal paste pre applied on the block but i own nh-h1 thermal paste i can try or would it be best to apply liquid metal directly  to the ihs?

[DominicNikon]

4 minutes ago, Intel Fanboy said:

That's fast enough. One more thing: There might be air in your loop. Make sure you bleed all the air out of the loop. Often times, air gets stuck in the pump, so try bleeding out the air from the system. You might have to tilt the pc to get all the air out. 

How do you bleed the loop?  I know there's air in the top of my resivour

[-rascal-]

1 hour ago, DominicNikon said:

Hello, I just finished building my first custom loop for my cpu and i was wondering if these temperatures sound normal for it because idk what to expect. I have a ryzen 3950x on a static overclock of 4.32ghz 1.35vcore with turbo loadline so it goes up to 1.39V underload and 1900 infinity fabric over all 16 cores on a gigabyte aorus xtreme with a 50mm thick 360mm radiator with 3 fans at 1000rpm on idle and 2000rpm under load. The tempature of the cpu package while idle is 45-50C and gaming is 60C blender/cinebench is 90C and the water tempature is 33C average. 

 

If you are setting the target Core Voltage to 1.35V, and LLC is kicking it up to 1.39V, then your LLC is too high.

You use the appropriate LLC level to keep the voltage stable, not overshoot.

For an example, with LLC Off, you may be setting the Core Voltage to 1.35V, but it droop down to 1.30V when CPU is under load.

 

As for getting air out of the loop...

You can tilt you case side-to-side, rock it back-and-fourth to get the air out -- usually trapped in the radiator.

Another thing you can do it unmount the radiator from the case, and tilt it around.

 

Air near the top of reservoir, or air bubbles in the tubing / reservoir tank is normal.

Run the jump / loop for 24 ~ 48 hours, slowly top off the reservoir, and the air / bubbles should go away.

I ran my cooling loop overnight, pump at full speed, and ~90% of the air bubbles were gone.

Over the course of normal computer use, the remaining 10% of bubbles were gone.

 

I don't know which pump/reservoir you are using, but mine is one of the combo ones from EKwb:

 

[DominicNikon]

39 minutes ago, -rascal- said:

 

If you are setting the target Core Voltage to 1.35V, and LLC is kicking it up to 1.39V, then your LLC is too high.

You use the appropriate LLC level to keep the voltage stable, not overshoot.

For an example, with LLC Off, you may be setting the Core Voltage to 1.35V, but it droop down to 1.30V when CPU is under load.

 

As for getting air out of the loop...

You can tilt you case side-to-side, rock it back-and-fourth to get the air out -- usually trapped in the radiator.

Another thing you can do it unmount the radiator from the case, and tilt it around.

 

Air near the top of reservoir, or air bubbles in the tubing / reservoir tank is normal.

Run the jump / loop for 24 ~ 48 hours, slowly top off the reservoir, and the air / bubbles should go away.

I ran my cooling loop overnight, pump at full speed, and ~90% of the air bubbles were gone.

Over the course of normal computer use, the remaining 10% of bubbles were gone.

 

I don't know which pump/reservoir you are using, but mine is one of the combo ones from EKwb:

This is what my resivour Currently looks like and I'll adjust load line and see what happens. I turned LLC from turbo to medium and i got a 10C decrease in temp during cinebench r20

 

[-rascal-]

3 hours ago, DominicNikon said:

This is what my resivour Currently looks like and I'll adjust load line and see what happens. I turned LLC from turbo to medium and i got a 10C decrease in temp during cinebench r20

 

Is your Core Voltage stable...or closer to your set voltage with the LLC turned down to Medium?

 

Reservoir looks good for now.

You can top off the reservoir a tiny bit more if you want.

Do you see any bubbles inside the tubing, or flowing / running around through the liquid?

[DominicNikon]

19 hours ago, -rascal- said:

Is your Core Voltage stable...or closer to your set voltage with the LLC turned down to Medium?

Yeah core voltage is now 1.356V and goes up to 1.36V.

12 hours ago, Intel Fanboy said:

Did you bleed the pump? There might be air in the pump.

I will continue to try and bleed it and when i get my graphics card and put it into the loop i will change to an aftermarket thermal paste. Corsairs pre applied stuff is around 5 mw/k thermal conductivity when i believe the noctua stuff i have is a 10 mw/k conductivity. 

[DominicNikon]

Just now, Intel Fanboy said:

Have yoru temps changed yet?

Yeah they dropped around 10C after i changed loadline calibration which put less voltage into the cpu

[DominicNikon]

11 hours ago, Intel Fanboy said:

That's good. Undervolting the CPU worked

Yeah, I know previously you did say that any chip should be under 70c but my 3950x now gets to 75C in blender which is still not under the 70 you said it should be at

[DominicNikon]

On 7/2/2020 at 9:45 AM, Intel Fanboy said:

 Did you bleed the pump? There might be air in the pump

on the subject of bleeding, any idea on how to get air bubbles out of the cpu block? i see some air bubbles in the block

[DominicNikon]

3 minutes ago, Intel Fanboy said:

Bubbles in the cpu water block is covered in the video I sent you earlier. 

Oh. I thought that only worked for the pump

[TehDwonz]

7 hours ago, DominicNikon said:

Oh. I thought that only worked for the pump

 

7 hours ago, Intel Fanboy said:

No it's also for the block. In most aio's the pump is on the block, so if you do it correctly, it should also bleed the block. Good luck on fixing your custom loop

 

Be aware that you should really leave some air in the reservoir. Water is not compressible... AIOs take this into account in their design, with tighter fittings and expandable tubing. In a custom loop, you may experience leaks under extended load.

As long as the air is not getting pumped around, it won't degrade performance. If you want to get rid of all the air except in the top of the res, then try running the pump at a low speed (PC at idle) for an hour or two. This will avoid mixing up the air into little annoying bubbles that never go away. Once that's running "clear", gradually turn the pump speed back up, and you'll find you get no more little bubbles going around the loop. Looking at your reservoir, I see that the internal clear tube is somewhat long, which means that any bubbles exiting are likely being sucked back into the pump. The idea of those tubes is to a) prevent splashing as water returns into the top, and b) allow bubbles to escape and rise to the top of the reservoir, joining the air-mass there. If it was mine, I'd consider taking an inch off of that tube.

Personally, I use a pressure release valve on my custom loops (especially on hardline!). Off-brand ones are around $8, with the big names being $15+.