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Any PSU without braided cables?

IAmAndre
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Hi,

 

I want to upgrade my Pure Power 11 and since I have a rather small case, I was wondering if I could find something with flat cables only, even the 24-pin one. Do you have any recommendations?

 

If it can help I'm looking for something that's at least semi-modular and has at least 500W of power. Ideally a Gold certification.

 

Thanks

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you mean not sleeved cables? I currently have thermaltake tough grand rgb gold 750w psu. it has pretty flat cables in my opnion.

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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3 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

Hi,

 

I want to upgrade my Pure Power 11 and since I have a rather small case, I was wondering if I could find something with flat cables only, even the 24-pin one. Do you have any recommendations?

 

If it can help I'm looking for something that's at least semi-modular and has at least 500W of power. Ideally a Gold certification.

 

Thanks

TX550M has flat cables and is semi-modular. Has a gold certification too. 

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5 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

 

4 minutes ago, Konrad_K said:

Thats an old model, my newer model (2017) had no sleeving. 

No.  The PSU he linked >>IS<< the "2017" model. 

 

He's correct.  The fixed cables on the TX-M are in fact "sleeved".

 

OP:  24-pin cables are going to be sleeved.  Flat cables with 24-wires looks like a mess.  If you don't like it, you'll have to modify it (cut off the sleeve and the zip-ties that hold the wires together) or buy a custom cable kit with individually sleeved cables.

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4 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

 

No.  The PSU he linked >>IS<< the "2017" model. 

 

He's correct.  The fixed cables on the TX-M are in fact "sleeved".

 

OP:  24-pin cables are going to be sleeved.  Flat cables with 24-wires looks like a mess.  If you don't like it, you'll have to modify it (cut off the sleeve and the zip-ties that hold the wires together) or buy a custom cable kit with individually sleeved cables.

Actually the Thermaltake one doesn't have sleeves. I want to route it behind the motherboard and the sleeves won't let me.

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4 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

Actually the Thermaltake one doesn't have sleeves. I want to route it behind the motherboard and the sleeves won't let me.

you cna also buy 550/650/850w varient too if you want. they have the same cables

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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11 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

 

No.  The PSU he linked >>IS<< the "2017" model. 

 

Yep sorry, my bad. Ir's my other pc with the SilentiumPC Vero M1 600W that had the unsleeved 24 pin cable. 

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39 minutes ago, SavageNeo said:

you cna also buy 550/650/850w varient too if you want. they have the same cables

I really wish it had more RGB. If you want to add some RGB, do it right. It serves its purpose but it looks so much worse than my Be quiet!

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7 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

I really wish it had more RGB. If you want to add some RGB, do it right. It serves its purpose but it looks so much worse than my Be quiet!

yeah. i cant see the rgb trough the shroud but i got it very cheap and am happy with it's performance so far. they have the new rgb psus with even rgb logos and stuff chekc them out

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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30 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

Wouldn't this be a simpler solution: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Motherboard-Power-Extension/dp/B01DV1Z66C ? If it's compatible with just any PSU I would go for it. Any thoughts?

A lot of people go that route, but that's why I suggested....

 

8 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

...buy a custom cable kit with individually sleeved cables.

Did you not know what I meant by that or maybe didn't read my entire post?  :(

 

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I actually have a Thermaltake Smart 650W that has a ribbon style 24 pin cable, all flat, all black. There are a few wattage variants as well, here is the amazon link for the 500w version. Colors on the PSU decals are different, mine are red, but the cables look the same.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Standard-Bronze-ATX12V-SP-650P/dp/B00B6A8N3O

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the biggest problem I have found with an all-flat PSU really surfaces when it comes to cable management. As thick as the bundle of sleeved wires is for the 24 pin connection, it is relatively easy to coil the excess, as well as the sata and pcie cables, into one "coil" that can be wedged in a drive cage or behind a panel. The flat wires are much wider and hold a shape, much like IDE cables, but are usually heading in many different directions and making turns, which makes them much harder to bundle in a compact fashion together. They "fold" well, but do not twist or pack together well as they like to hold their shape. Pick your poison I guess. If you are trying to wedge a flat cable behind your motherboard like a pci-e riser, then go for the flat, but just keep in mind the amount of space you would need in another portion of your case for the bigger bundle of wires. My personal suggestion would be, budget allowing, to follow @jonnyGURU's advice and spend the $$ on a modular PSU with even basic color individually sleeved cables. Being individually sleeved, you can spread all the wires apart to flatten the overall cable section , and then bring them back together with combs or zip ties once in an open space. you can add individually sleeved extensions for much less money than custom sleeved modular cables, but they will add so much more bulk to your overall cable mess.

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18 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

A lot of people go that route, but that's why I suggested....

 

Did you not know what I meant by that or maybe didn't read my entire post?  :(

 

I was thinking about buying an actual cable kit. I don't consider a cable extender a cable kit.

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6 minutes ago, Aimulator64 said:

the biggest problem I have found with an all-flat PSU really surfaces when it comes to cable management. As thick as the bundle of sleeved wires is for the 24 pin connection, it is relatively easy to coil the excess, as well as the sata and pcie cables, into one "coil" that can be wedged in a drive cage or behind a panel. The flat wires are much wider and hold a shape, much like IDE cables, but are usually heading in many different directions and making turns, which makes them much harder to bundle in a compact fashion together. They "fold" well, but do not twist or pack together well as they like to hold their shape. Pick your poison I guess. If you are trying to wedge a flat cable behind your motherboard like a pci-e riser, then go for the flat, but just keep in mind the amount of space you would need in another portion of your case for the bigger bundle of wires. My personal suggestion would be, budget allowing, to follow @jonnyGURU's advice and spend the $$ on a modular PSU with even basic color individually sleeved cables. Being individually sleeved, you can spread all the wires apart to flatten the overall cable section , and then bring them back together with combs or zip ties once in an open space. you can add individually sleeved extensions for much less money than custom sleeved modular cables, but they will add so much more bulk to your overall cable mess.

Actually in terms of cable management I wasn't too bad with my semi modular Pure Power. I managed to make things look okay-ish besides the 24-pin connector. So right now I'm even considering buying just a more powerful version of this PSU so I don't have to unplug everything.

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1 hour ago, IAmAndre said:

I was thinking about buying an actual cable kit. I don't consider a cable extender a cable kit.

Me neither. 

 

I would suggest a cable kit. Not extensions.

 

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6 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

Me neither. 

 

I would suggest a cable kit. Not extensions.

 

Hmm what do you mean?

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9 hours ago, IAmAndre said:

Hmm what do you mean?

I would suggest a fully modular PSU with a cable kit to replace the cables that normally come with the PSU.

 

Extensions aren't good idea as they make the cables very long and the connection between the original cable and the extension adds a weak point of potential failure.

 

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1 hour ago, jonnyGURU said:

I would suggest a fully modular PSU with a cable kit to replace the cables that normally come with the PSU.

 

Extensions aren't good idea as they make the cables very long and the connection between the original cable and the extension adds a weak point of potential failure.

 

Well as of now I only need a longer and flat 24-pin connector so I'd rather spend $10 on that and be done with it. I'll also upgrade my PSU at some point but I'd rather get the same model but just a more powerful variant so I don't have to re-route all the cables.

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31 minutes ago, IAmAndre said:

Well as of now I only need a longer and flat 24-pin connector so I'd rather spend $10 on that and be done with it. I'll also upgrade my PSU at some point but I'd rather get the same model but just a more powerful variant so I don't have to re-route all the cables.

Ok.  I thought you were in the market for a new PSU.  

 

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6 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

Ok.  I thought you were in the market for a new PSU.  

 

Yes actually I wanted to upgrade it because I thought it was the only way of doing a better job in terms of cable management. It's also a bit weak for my system so I still need to upgrade it but right now this can wait a bit considering that I can just buy an extension cable for now, and then get a more powerful unit in a month or two.

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On 5/19/2020 at 11:31 AM, jonnyGURU said:

 24-pin cables are going to be sleeved.  Flat cables with 24-wires looks like a mess.  If you don't like it, you'll have to modify it (cut off the sleeve and the zip-ties that hold the wires together) or buy a custom cable kit with individually sleeved cables.

I have the Enermax RevoBron. It has all flat cables, including the non-modular 24-pin. (It's split into 4 6-wide ribbons.) I haven't finished my build yet, but in my preliminary placements, yeah, it's pretty terrible. I kind of wish they were just bundled, and I may end up just zip-tying them together into a bundle.

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