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Hello, pretty new to OC'ing, and wanted to give it a go, so I figured I would try it out on Ryzen Master. Right now I have all cores around 4.1GHZ, but my voltage is at like 1.35, and I have heard that you can get it quite a lot lower than that, what would you guys recommend I set it to?

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Be very careful with static voltage on Ryzen CPUs! 1.35v sounds quite high.

I have heard that the max safe static voltage is 1.325v, but there really isn't any evidence to back this besides a few Reddit posts. 

 

Don't panic, you likely haven't hurt your CPU by running that voltage, just do a bit of research before going any higher. Ill edit this with more info, just want to let you know now before you go any higher. 

 

Here is a video from linus's chanel regarding ryzen 3000 OCing: 

 

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you have to experiment.

 

Also, BIOS overclocking is more stable than Ryzen master overclocking.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

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8 minutes ago, danielcwr said:

Be very careful with static voltage on Ryzen CPUs! 1.35v sounds quite high.

I have heard that the max safe static voltage is 1.325v, but there really isn't any evidence to back this besides a few Reddit posts. 

 

Don't panic, you likely haven't hurt your CPU by running that voltage, just do a bit of research before going any higher. Ill edit this with more info, just want to let you know now before you go any higher. 

 

Here is a video from linus's chanel regarding ryzen 3000 OCing: 

 

Alright, thanks, like I said I had no idea they could go so low, I saw it running at like 1.4v sometimes with everything auto, so I assumed it was okay, processor is happy and cool now running at around 1.32

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4.2Ghz 1.325V is what I run my 3600 at, I would recommend the same.

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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4 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

4.2Ghz 1.325V is what I run my 3600 at, I would recommend the same.

Ok sweet, I don't know why I didn't do this sooner, temps are cooler than before and it's running faster. I'll try those settings out, my cooler isn't super good so I might not quite get there. 

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Question - maybe a stupid one - but I run the 3600 myself. It overckocks itself with PBO very stable and reasonable and boosts itself almost to the max one can expect from manual OC. SO why bothering with OC with this CPU? The gains are minimal compared to the increase in heat and power consumption. IMHO - not worth OC'ing this CPU. Only lowering the VCORE could be a valid option as most boards set this too high at Stock.

 

With PBO enabled and reasonabme VCORE settings, this CPU is really fast and clocks really well for a temperature based auto OC.

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3 minutes ago, Miccellomann said:

Question - maybe a stupid one - but I run the 3600 myself. It overckocks itself with PBO very stable and reasonable and boosts itself almost to the max one can expect from manual OC. SO why bothering with OC with this CPU? The gains are minimal compared to the increase in heat and power consumption. IMHO - not worth OC'ing this CPU. Only lowering the VCORE could be a valid option as most boards set this too high at Stock.

The voltage was originally my only reason for doing it, but no matter what I did, PBO, Auto OC, they both topped out a 3.9ghz. And the chip was at 65C, max. Lowering the voltage myself and and manually doing it seems to be working great for right now, it's cool, quiet, and faster than when I started.

 

EDIT : And it's fun.

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Well this is called silicon lottery. My 3600, running on a first gen B350-F, runs also at 3,9 all core at STOCK!!!! settings with a max of 1,29 Volts and boosts to 4,2. If I manually OC it to 4,1 all core it is stable but WAY hotter and not reasonable faster to justify the OC - at 4,2 all core it gets unstable....I think the non X models are the "not so good" silicons that tend to OC not so well...ok in my case the fist gen board could be a factor as well....but..well .7 percent more performance it not worth the amount of heat it produces....

 

Well "fun" ok - if it's fun for you, it's fine.  I just need a working system and the 3600 is pretty much at its limits with most stock/PBO settings - WAY different than the 1st gen Ryzen CPUs where simple OC to the boost Clocks all core made pretty much sense.

 

I see no performance gain when lowering the voltage (with an offset of course) - I just see slightly lower temps.

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1 hour ago, Demonic Donut said:

Have you tried going lower on voltage?

Yep, too much lower just instantly crashes during Cinebench R20.

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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Just now, Miccellomann said:

How low did you go? Did you use an offset? Which board do you use anyways?

I started at 1.20V and worked my way up by 0.05V until it stopped crashing, I have an MSI Gaming Pro Carbon X470 mobo (Overkill, I know :P).

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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1 hour ago, Miccellomann said:

Well this is called silicon lottery. My 3600, running on a first gen B350-F, runs also at 3,9 all core at STOCK!!!! settings with a max of 1,29 Volts and boosts to 4,2. If I manually OC it to 4,1 all core it is stable but WAY hotter and not reasonable faster to justify the OC - at 4,2 all core it gets unstable....I think the non X models are the "not so good" silicons that tend to OC not so well...ok in my case the fist gen board could be a factor as well....but..well .7 percent more performance it not worth the amount of heat it produces....

 

Well "fun" ok - if it's fun for you, it's fine.  I just need a working system and the 3600 is pretty much at its limits with most stock/PBO settings - WAY different than the 1st gen Ryzen CPUs where simple OC to the boost Clocks all core made pretty much sense.

 

I see no performance gain when lowering the voltage (with an offset of course) - I just see slightly lower temps.

Silicon lottery is right. Motherboard might be part of it too. I can do 4.2 all core at 1.2V. The whole point of lower voltage is to get lower temps though, by using less power. Gaming temps are basically nothing anyway though, compared to F@H or benchmarks.

 

Speaking of silicon lottery, my wife and I have identical 5700xt's, she had a weird glitch last night so I played with her card this morning. I can get 2150mhz @ 1.175V and memory at 1875mhz. Mine crashes at any voltage under max if clocks go above 1950 or so and my memory can't go over 1850... And her's undervolted really well at stock clocks. Haven't stability tested anything yet, but eesh.

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