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Help.. I think I fried my mobo

wiredwithkevin

EDIT: so literally right after I posted this, I tried rebooting again and it booted up... but only goes to the ASUS boot screen then just stays there. 
 

So I was installing a new PSU today (just going from an old/unreliable 350w to an EVGA 400w) and upon finishing everything, I go to boot up the PC and the fans and whatnot come on, but no picture and no power to my USB devices or anything. I try rebooting/installing the old PSU again, double checking connnections, etc and just nothing. Like I said, fans come on the the LED on the mobo comes on, but display signal and no power to USB devices. 
 

My specs

ryzen 3 3200g

asus prime b540

gtx 1650 super

2x8g ballistix ram

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3 minutes ago, kevindoesgaming said:

EDIT: so literally right after I posted this, I tried rebooting again and it booted up... but only goes to the ASUS boot screen then just stays there. 
 

So I was installing a new PSU today (just going from an old/unreliable 350w to an EVGA 400w) and upon finishing everything, I go to boot up the PC and the fans and whatnot come on, but no picture and no power to my USB devices or anything. I try rebooting/installing the old PSU again, double checking connnections, etc and just nothing. Like I said, fans come on the the LED on the mobo comes on, but display signal and no power to USB devices. 
 

My specs

ryzen 3 3200g

asus prime b540

gtx 1650 super

2x8g ballistix ram

did u plug the cable into the graphics card or mobo?

NOTE: I AM NEVER ALWAYS RIGHT, BUT I AM HAPPY TO HELP ANYWAY I CAN

Tag me @WambleCropped or quote me so I can see your reply

My Rig: RTX 2060, R7 1700X, Samsung 860 500GB, Masterlite Liquid Cooler, Asrock Pro B540,16GB of RAM G.Skill 2133

PSU Tier List                    SSD Tier List                              Graphics Tier List

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5 minutes ago, kevindoesgaming said:

So I was installing a new PSU today (just going from an old/unreliable 350w to an EVGA 400w) and upon finishing everything, I go to boot up the PC and the fans and whatnot come on, but no picture and no power to my USB devices or anything. I try rebooting/installing the old PSU again, double checking connnections, etc and just nothing. Like I said, fans come on the the LED on the mobo comes on, but display signal and no power to USB devices. 
 

My specs

ryzen 3 3200g

asus prime b540

gtx 1650 super

2x8g ballistix ram

After checking all the connectors are connected, try booting the PC without the GPU inserted. While you're in there, while the power cable is still removed, reset the bios by either removing the coin cell, or by shorting the CRTC pins underneath the PCIE 1x slots, near the left-most COM port.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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1 minute ago, kevindoesgaming said:

Yes all cables are plugged in. I triple checked. 

i meant display cables (quote me if u want me to see)

NOTE: I AM NEVER ALWAYS RIGHT, BUT I AM HAPPY TO HELP ANYWAY I CAN

Tag me @WambleCropped or quote me so I can see your reply

My Rig: RTX 2060, R7 1700X, Samsung 860 500GB, Masterlite Liquid Cooler, Asrock Pro B540,16GB of RAM G.Skill 2133

PSU Tier List                    SSD Tier List                              Graphics Tier List

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1 minute ago, WambleCropped said:

i meant display cables (quote me if u want me to see)

Oh I see what you mean. I tried both. Did you see my edit on original post?

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3 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

After checking all the connectors are connected, try booting the PC without the GPU inserted. While you're in there, while the power cable is still removed, reset the bios by either removing the coin cell, or by shorting the CRTC pins underneath the PCIE 1x slots, near the left-most COM port.

Trying that now

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Just now, kevindoesgaming said:

Oh I see what you mean. I tried both. Did you see my edit on original post?

Then reset the bios in the way I told you, and when the PC is booting spam Del to go into BIOS.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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9 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

Then reset the bios in the way I told you, and when the PC is booting spam Del to go into BIOS.

Ok here’s a question.  On this new PSU there are 2 8pin connectors. One is completely on its own cable, and the other is a 6+2 and then another 6 pin on that.

 

i plugged the standalone 8pin into the mobo power and the 6pin into the GPU... I assumed that should be correct?

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Just now, kevindoesgaming said:

Ok here’s a question.  On this new PSU there are 2 8pin connectors. One is completely on its own cable, and the other is a 6+2 and then another 6 pin on that.

 

i plugged the standalone 8pin into the mobo power and the 6pin into the GPU... I assumed that should be correct?

Well, most PSUs have the CPU power as a 4+4 pin, since most low end mobos still use 4 pins. PCIe (GPU) power would be a 6+2 pin on basically every PSU.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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4 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

Well, most PSUs have the CPU power as a 4+4 pin, since most low end mobos still use 4 pins. PCIe (GPU) power would be a 6+2 pin on basically every PSU.

That’s what I meant, sorry. 4+4. I’m starting over from scratch on everything right now and resetting the bios. I’ll Keep ya posted lol

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Ok so it booted to windows but i got these 2 different errors. See photos. It’s now attempting windows automatic repair

F321F0B6-2754-4B7D-B3CD-CD79D669B2D9.jpeg

3D35F283-E408-44F2-AD36-2CABC5FEC9B1.jpeg

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Just now, kevindoesgaming said:

Ok so it booted to windows but i got these 2 different errors. See photos. It’s now attempting windows automatic repair

By the looks of that your RAM or Storage is read only?

image.png.97c3025eda1c691b4f2f2a6010606ef7.png

Also could you retake those images in landscape, not that haha

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Annnddd we are back to not booting at all. Just powers on, fans running but no display signal and no power to USB devices. Even tried taking out the GPU and connecting directly to mobo since I have integrated graphics 

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And now back to the asus screen again but it’s frozen here. Won’t let me enter bios or anything. Been on this screen for a few minutes now. 

image.jpg

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SOLVED.. sorta 

 

I removed one of the ram sticks, and it works perfectly now. I have no idea how one of my sticks of ram would of been damaged installing a new psu? Or maybe it’s the ram slot. It’s working now so I’ll test different ram slots/swapping out the stick tomorrow lol.

 

thanks everyone 

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40 minutes ago, kevindoesgaming said:

SOLVED.. sorta 

 

I removed one of the ram sticks, and it works perfectly now. I have no idea how one of my sticks of ram would of been damaged installing a new psu? Or maybe it’s the ram slot. It’s working now so I’ll test different ram slots/swapping out the stick tomorrow lol.

 

thanks everyone 

I know people disagree, but in my experience RAM is the most frequent failiure. Luckily, most RAM is warranted for life, so you should be able to get a new one sent out if it turns out the stick is faulty.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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44 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

I know people disagree, but in my experience RAM is the most frequent failiure. Luckily, most RAM is warranted for life, so you should be able to get a new one sent out if it turns out the stick is faulty.

So weird how it just died when installing the new PSU. I literally just bought the ram last week too from a local shop lol I’ll go back there tomorrow and see if they can test it/replace it. 

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1 hour ago, kevindoesgaming said:

SOLVED.. sorta 

 

I removed one of the ram sticks, and it works perfectly now. I have no idea how one of my sticks of ram would of been damaged installing a new psu? Or maybe it’s the ram slot. It’s working now so I’ll test different ram slots/swapping out the stick tomorrow lol.

 

thanks everyone 

 

You might have damaged the RAM, and when I saw the "write" error above I knew that had to be RAM. RAM failures are usually a little too consistent unless they are thermally tripped. That boot delay at the ASUS logo was not RAM though. The BSOD's were.

 

57 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

I know people disagree, but in my experience RAM is the most frequent failiure. Luckily, most RAM is warranted for life, so you should be able to get a new one sent out if it turns out the stick is faulty.

 

In my experience RAM is the only consistent failure, but not the most frequent. The most frequent is:

1. Battery (100% failure over 3 years on non-removable batteries on laptops, smartphones)

2. Mouse (100% over 3 years)

3. USB drive chassis (100% failure over 5 years)

4. Mechanical hard drives (laptops 100% over 5 years, desktops usually fail as new)

5. GPU (Typically low-to-mid end AMD, and low-end nVidia parts, 50% over 7 years)

6. RAM ( 10% ( 4 module sets, not individual modules) failure rate over 7 years, mostly on laptops, usually fails as new), YMMV, but the higher speed the module, the more likely it will fail.

7. MB or CPU+MB (25% failure rate over 7 years, usually fails as new)

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Kisai said:

In my experience RAM is the only consistent failure, but not the most frequent. The most frequent is:

1. Battery (100% failure over 3 years on non-removable batteries on laptops, smartphones)

2. Mouse (100% over 3 years)

3. USB drive chassis (100% failure over 5 years)

4. Mechanical hard drives (laptops 100% over 5 years, desktops usually fail as new)

5. GPU (Typically low-to-mid end AMD, and low-end nVidia parts, 50% over 7 years)

6. RAM ( 10% ( 4 module sets, not individual modules) failure rate over 7 years, mostly on laptops, usually fails as new), YMMV, but the higher speed the module, the more likely it will fail.

7. MB or CPU+MB (25% failure rate over 7 years, usually fails as new)

 

Not sure I would consider Mouse and USB drives, as well as laptop batteries (since these have, more or less, have a predetermined lifetime), as PC components and count them in the same list as CPUs and GPUs ( I would however accept the BIOS lithium button cells as a PC component).

 

Funnily enough I've seen a lot more Nvidia x80 class GPUs, followed by AMD Hawaii GPUs in particular dead than lower end stuff.

 

And I also guess your experience comes from OEM stuff deployed in buisnesses. Your failiure rates are much higher than most enthusiast users.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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9 minutes ago, ibabyslapper said:

 

Not sure I would consider Mouse and USB drives, as well as laptop batteries (since these have, more or less, have a predetermined lifetime), as PC components and count them in the same list as CPUs and GPUs ( I would however accept the BIOS lithium button cells as a PC component).

 

Funnily enough I've seen a lot more Nvidia x80 class GPUs, followed by AMD Hawaii GPUs in particular dead than lower end stuff.

 

And I also guess your experience comes from OEM stuff deployed in buisnesses. Your failiure rates are much higher than most enthusiast users.

The battery, is certainly from the OEM stuff.  An average of one a month for systems less than three years old. Though I think we're nearing the end of the worst lot.

 

When everyone started switching to SSD's, the failure rate of course went down because people who tend to be hard on their laptops stop being able to break them that way.

 

If I were to include user damage, MB's and screens would be higher on the list. I've had three "water/coffee" in the laptop incidents over the last year, and at least one broken screen. However a lot of screens tend to have what I refer to as "poke marks" on them where the user either had poked the screen with something hard or closed their laptop while something was on the keyboard, thus damaging the screen.

 

From my own personal hardware experiences, external drive chassis is at the top of the list, because every single one of them fails, and they just stay on the desk all the time, they're not being moved. Some worse than others. The drives inside however tend to survive. I've had terrible luck with AMD GPU's ending in x700. 

 

The laptops at the office, the old ones with AMD FirePro parts are fickle but don't usually fail.

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3 minutes ago, Kisai said:

From my own personal hardware experiences, external drive chassis is at the top of the list, because every single one of them fails, and they just stay on the desk all the time, they're not being moved. Some worse than others. The drives inside however tend to survive. I've had terrible luck with AMD GPU's ending in x700. 

Oh yeah, I can second that. Drive cages always fail, but the oldest drive in my PC right now is an old 2TB seagate baracuda XT from a Buffalo external drive from like 10 years ago. I think it has about 30,000 hours of power on time, I don't store any important things on it 🤣.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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