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constant buzzing in headphones

Cygi

Hello everyone, A week ago I bought a new rig with a new mobo, Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X. Since then Ive been hearing buzzing that is very quiet but noticeable and annoying af. My outlet is not grounded but I didnt experience anything like this with my previous pc. Now the interesting part, the buzzing changes pitch and intensity depending on what Im doing. Everytime I launch a program it stops for a second or two, running stress test makes it silent. I have to mention that after turning on my pc the buzzing starts exactly when the logging to your account appears. Im sure its not my headphones I tried it with different ones. Will a sound card or a UPS help? Thank you all for answers ❤️

 

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Could be because it's not properly grounded. Does it happen on other devices, or with other headphones/speakers?

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CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: MSI B450-A Pro Max RAM: 32GB I forget GPU: MSI Vega 56 Storage: 256GB NVMe boot, 512GB Samsung 850 Pro, 1TB WD Blue SSD, 1TB WD Blue HDD PSU: Inwin P85 850w Case: Fractal Design Define C Cooling: Stock for CPU, be quiet! case fans, Morpheus Vega w/ be quiet! Pure Wings 2 for GPU Monitor: 3x Thinkvision P24Q on a Steelcase Eyesite triple monitor stand Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 Keyboard: Focus FK-9000 (heavily modded) Mousepad: Aliexpress cat special Headphones:  Sennheiser HD598SE and Sony Linkbuds

 

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Just now, kelvinhall05 said:

Could be because it's not properly grounded. Does it happen on other devices, or with other headphones/speakers?

I doesnt happen with any other device, as I said I dont have grounded outlets in my room. I tried different headphones

 

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Just now, Cygi said:

I doesnt happen with any other device, as I said I dont have grounded outlets in my room. I tried different headphones

 

By any other device what do you mean? Can you only replicate the issue with those headphones on your PC?

 

 

Are you using an external DAC/AMP or headphone splitter or anything?

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SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: MSI B450-A Pro Max RAM: 32GB I forget GPU: MSI Vega 56 Storage: 256GB NVMe boot, 512GB Samsung 850 Pro, 1TB WD Blue SSD, 1TB WD Blue HDD PSU: Inwin P85 850w Case: Fractal Design Define C Cooling: Stock for CPU, be quiet! case fans, Morpheus Vega w/ be quiet! Pure Wings 2 for GPU Monitor: 3x Thinkvision P24Q on a Steelcase Eyesite triple monitor stand Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 Keyboard: Focus FK-9000 (heavily modded) Mousepad: Aliexpress cat special Headphones:  Sennheiser HD598SE and Sony Linkbuds

 

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1 minute ago, kelvinhall05 said:

By any other device what do you mean? Can you only replicate the issue with those headphones on your PC?

 

 

Are you using an external DAC/AMP or headphone splitter or anything?

My old pc I used to use, I can replicate with every headphones I have, I dont use a DAC nor a AMP

 

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Just now, Cygi said:

My old pc I used to use, I can replicate with every headphones I have, I dont use a DAC nor a AMP

 

Yeah, probably bad grounding or something. I feel like a decent DAC would have "built-in" grounding...how do none of your outlets have grounding?

Quote me to see my reply!

SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: MSI B450-A Pro Max RAM: 32GB I forget GPU: MSI Vega 56 Storage: 256GB NVMe boot, 512GB Samsung 850 Pro, 1TB WD Blue SSD, 1TB WD Blue HDD PSU: Inwin P85 850w Case: Fractal Design Define C Cooling: Stock for CPU, be quiet! case fans, Morpheus Vega w/ be quiet! Pure Wings 2 for GPU Monitor: 3x Thinkvision P24Q on a Steelcase Eyesite triple monitor stand Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 Keyboard: Focus FK-9000 (heavily modded) Mousepad: Aliexpress cat special Headphones:  Sennheiser HD598SE and Sony Linkbuds

 

🏳️‍🌈

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Just now, kelvinhall05 said:

Yeah, probably bad grounding or something. I feel like a decent DAC would have "built-in" grounding...how do none of your outlets have grounding?

well only outlets in my room doesnt have grounding, it confuses me too. Are you sure a DAC will help? What about a sound card?

 

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1 minute ago, Cygi said:

well only outlets in my room doesnt have grounding, it confuses me too. Are you sure a DAC will help? What about a sound card?

 

You can try a soundcard, idk. If you're investing in nice audio stuff I would get an external DAC/AMP.

Quote me to see my reply!

SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: MSI B450-A Pro Max RAM: 32GB I forget GPU: MSI Vega 56 Storage: 256GB NVMe boot, 512GB Samsung 850 Pro, 1TB WD Blue SSD, 1TB WD Blue HDD PSU: Inwin P85 850w Case: Fractal Design Define C Cooling: Stock for CPU, be quiet! case fans, Morpheus Vega w/ be quiet! Pure Wings 2 for GPU Monitor: 3x Thinkvision P24Q on a Steelcase Eyesite triple monitor stand Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 Keyboard: Focus FK-9000 (heavily modded) Mousepad: Aliexpress cat special Headphones:  Sennheiser HD598SE and Sony Linkbuds

 

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Get an electrician and do the wireing.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Just now, 191x7 said:

Get an electrician and do the wireing.

I dont think its possible...

1 minute ago, kelvinhall05 said:

You can try a soundcard, idk. If you're investing in nice audio stuff I would get an external DAC/AMP.

I know nothing anout those, also Im on a pretty tight budget like 60$. Can you recommend me something?

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It's possible. I had no grounding in my room, took the electrician a few hours to add a cable.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Just now, 191x7 said:

It's possible. I had no grounding in my room, took the electrician a few hours to add a cable.

but Im not sure if its becouse of the lack of grounding...

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May sound odd, but be sure the jack is snapped in all the way, and check for clearance issues that may be preventing the plug from seating fully. There's a lot of tolerance issues possible with 3.5mm jacks and plugs, and if the tip is not fully seated, you can get ground loop issues.

 

The variance in sound that relates to load suggests that the fans are creating the most of the RF noise being inducted, if not via the ground load, then directly out from the fan or headers. Again, be sure they're all plugged in fully, and that they are spinning freely. If fan wires are anywhere near the header for the 3.5mm plug, move them away. Same is true even for the sound processing chip (whichever one is handling it) itself, so if it is integrated into your video card, be sure the wires are routed away from that, too.

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5 minutes ago, Cygi said:

but Im not sure if its becouse of the lack of grounding...

Take a multimeter and measure yourself.

Do not use a PC on a socket without grounding.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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3 minutes ago, Euchre said:

May sound odd, but be sure the jack is snapped in all the way, and check for clearance issues that may be preventing the plug from seating fully. There's a lot of tolerance issues possible with 3.5mm jacks and plugs, and if the tip is not fully seated, you can get ground loop issues.

 

The variance in sound that relates to load suggests that the fans are creating the most of the RF noise being inducted, if not via the ground load, then directly out from the fan or headers. Again, be sure they're all plugged in fully, and that they are spinning freely. If fan wires are anywhere near the header for the 3.5mm plug, move them away. Same is true even for the sound processing chip (whichever one is handling it) itself, so if it is integrated into your video card, be sure the wires are routed away from that, too.

 

it is snapped all the way, I also have a headphone jack on top of my case, the buzzing there is doubled. I dont think its because of the fans, the pitch changes exactly when I launch a programm and you cant call chrome a load.Though  I ll try to reroute the cables

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6 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Take a multimeter and measure yourself.

Do not use a PC on a socket without grounding.

Dont have one :/

 

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UPDATE

I found a sollution. I have this wheel on the cord of my headphones that I can adjust volume with. It is not causing the problem but if i turn the volume down on it and turn it up on windows the buzzing is completly gone. Neither the less thank you all for your time ❤️

 

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2 hours ago, Cygi said:

UPDATE

I found a sollution. I have this wheel on the cord of my headphones that I can adjust volume with. It is not causing the problem but if i turn the volume down on it and turn it up on windows the buzzing is completly gone. Neither the less thank you all for your time ❤️

 

oh damn you might want to get that replaced. 

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4 hours ago, Cygi said:

UPDATE

I found a sollution. I have this wheel on the cord of my headphones that I can adjust volume with. It is not causing the problem but if i turn the volume down on it and turn it up on windows the buzzing is completly gone. Neither the less thank you all for your time ❤️

 

Aha! Mismatched gain is not good, because it will amplify very extremely modest noises like that. In general, you shouldn't amplify an already amplified signal. If the headphones use batteries, you should use (or possibly set the jack to) a line level output, so you can use the headphone volume control. If that isn't an option, Set Windows volume to half, then test the volume range on the headphones. If the hum or other distortions start to happen in the top quarter of the headphone volume range, adjust the Windows volume to 25% and try again. Once you can cleanly use the full headphone volume control range, leave the Windows volume there. Even if the headphones do not use their own power, this is a good method.

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4 hours ago, rice guru said:

oh damn you might want to get that replaced. 

I already RMAed like 2 things in the past month, I have the worst luck ever. It works so I’m fine

3 hours ago, Euchre said:

Aha! Mismatched gain is not good, because it will amplify very extremely modest noises like that. In general, you shouldn't amplify an already amplified signal. If the headphones use batteries, you should use (or possibly set the jack to) a line level output, so you can use the headphone volume control. If that isn't an option, Set Windows volume to half, then test the volume range on the headphones. If the hum or other distortions start to happen in the top quarter of the headphone volume range, adjust the Windows volume to 25% and try again. Once you can cleanly use the full headphone volume control range, leave the Windows volume there. Even if the headphones do not use their own power, this is a good method.

But I used many other headphones without an AMP, same results

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