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My psu died, when I installed a new RAM stick

zmling

So, today I installed a new RAM stick, so I would have dual channel 16GB of RAM. (they are both "g.skill ripjaw V 2800Hz")

I plugged it in the right slot, booted up and everything seemd to run fine.
I used CPUZ to check if they were running dual channel and they were.

Then I booted up a game (skyrim modded) and after 5min of playing, I got a blue screen. (system service exception error)

After that, the blue screens just kept comming

  -> All the errors i got:

- system service exception error

- system service exception error (win32kfull.sys error)

- irql_not_less_or_equal

I did some research on the errors and was told my drivers needed an update.

I used software to scan wich drivers needed updating and installed them

And yet again, I got a blue screen, but now it was stuck at 100% for like 10min.

I decided to turn of the power, but it would turn of with the power button, so I pulled the power cable.
After that, my pc just wouldn't turn on, every time I plugged in the cable, it tripped the circuit breaker. (and yes I tried unplugging everything except the pc)

I installed my old PSU (very old) and it booted (without new RAM stick) and didn't trip the circuit breaker.

FYI my PSU was less then a year old

 

SO, my questions:

- How did this happen? is it because I installed the RAM wrongly?

- If I buy a new PSU, will this happen again?

- Can I still repair my PSU?

-Why did I get blue screens, when I installed the new RAM stick?

 

Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (not ovederclocked w/stock cooler)
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080

RAM: G.SKILL ripjaw V 8GB 2800Hz (16GB w/ new stick)

PSU: EVGA 650BQ 80plus bronze

MOBO: Asus Rog Strix b350-f gaming

 

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When you unplugged it did you actually unplug it from the wall or did you flip the switch on the PSU? Unplugging the from the wall with power still being drawn from the system can cause damage to the PSU and potentially the rest of the system. When you unplug a device while drawing power it causes arching within the outlet and doesn't cleanly and quickly break the flow of electrons. This is why most switches have an audible click, its caused by switches being designed to break the flow of electricity as quickly as possible (much faster than you could yourself). It is very possible your damaged your PSU considering it did stop working after you did that.

 

Also, as a second recommendation I wouldn't use software to search for updated drivers. I would go into Device Manager and then go to the websites of the components manufacturer/vendors website download the most recent drivers. uninstall the old drivers completely (best to do in safe mode), then reinstall the updated drivers manually. This is just a recommendation though, as you are less likely to end up with driver conflicts. Which, if that is indeed what was causing the blue screens, might have prevented it.

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1 minute ago, Dylanc1500 said:

When you unplugged it did you actually unplug it from the wall or did you flip the switch on the PSU? Unplugging the from the wall with power still being drawn from the system can cause damage to the PSU and potentially the rest of the system. When you unplug a device while drawing power it causes arching within the outlet and doesn't cleanly and quickly break the flow of electrons.

I did Indeed unplug it from the wall...

So, It didn't have anything to do with the new RAM stick?

Also, why did I keep having blue screens when I installed the new stick? 

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11 minutes ago, zmling said:

I did Indeed unplug it from the wall...

So, It didn't have anything to do with the new RAM stick?

Also, why did I keep having blue screens when I installed the new stick? 

First gen Ryzen is only guaranteed up to 2667mhz, if you DOCP or XMP'd to 2800mhz you were past the limits.  I OC my Ram to 3600mhz, I get a BSOD around 1 time a night because it R7 1700 doesn't like it.  If I drop to 2667mhz I never have a single issue.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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3 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

First gen Ryzen is only guaranteed up to 2667mhz, if you DOCP or XMP'd to 2800mhz you were past the limits.  I OC my Ram to 3600mhz, I get a BSOD around 1 time a night because it R7 1700 doesn't like it.  If I drop to 2667mhz I never have a single issue.

Thanks!

But why can I run 1 stick at 2800, but not 2?

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5 minutes ago, zmling said:

Thanks!

But why can I run 1 stick at 2800, but not 2?

Not sure the science but I would assume that with 1 stick you weren't using the Infinity Fabric correctly as you were really bottlenecking that CPU (Ryzen requires Dual Channel to "breathe").  When you added the second stick you added to the complexity. 

 

My 1st Ryzen machine runs 3200mhz, same thing, it once in a while will BSOD but the gains are worth keeping it at 3200mhz in FPS than the random BSOD - once I drop it to 2666/7mhz its solid as a rock.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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Sorry I updated my previous post as I submitted it before I was actually done.

 

The blue screens could have been caused by the new stick of memory being faulty, which if so, your best solution is to run the windows memory diagnostic. Which can be done by searching at the start menu.

Windows Memory Diagnostic.bmp

 

Then it will ask you to restart to run.

Restart.bmp

 

It could also be caused by it being ran at 2800 if you had XMP enabled. Which you might turn off, if that is indeed the case, and see if that fixes your problems. The memory controller may not be able to handle the 2800 with dual channel as it is only guaranteed to run at 2667 in any configuration. That would indeed cause memory instabilities and the blue screens you were getting.

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22 minutes ago, zmling said:

Thanks!

But why can I run 1 stick at 2800, but not 2?

If the ram was not bought together in a kit then it has not been tested to be compatible with one another. DDR3 was crazy you could throw any DDR3 stick in the computer and mix match the crap out of it and it almost always wasn't a problem. DDR4 however is much more picky, it could be the exact same ram module latency, timings, brand, model, everything and still have compatibility issues. I always try to recommend if someone wants to upgrade their ram to a higher amount to get a kit of exactly the amount they want instead of purchasing more modules to add onto what they already have. I would recommend purchasing a kit and then selling the modules you have now separately. If Memtest came back clean and your computer is running fine with just either stick of memory installed on it's own, then I believe that's the problem.

Main Desktop: CPU - i9-14900k | Mobo - Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite AX DDR4 | GPU - ASUS TUF Gaming OC RTX 4090 RAM - Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 64GB 3600mhz | AIO - H150i Pro XT | PSU - Corsair RM1000X | Case - Phanteks P500A Digital - White | Storage - Samsung 970 Pro M.2 NVME SSD 512GB / Sabrent Rocket 1TB Nvme / Samsung 860 Evo Pro 500GB / Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2tb Nvme / Samsung 870 QVO 4TB  |

 

TV Streaming PC: Intel Nuc CPU - i7 8th Gen | RAM - 16GB DDR4 2666mhz | Storage - 256GB WD Black M.2 NVME SSD |

 

Phone: Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 4 - Phantom Black 512GB |

 

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