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Why make noise cooling your computer when you can just cool it down later?

I put my components in an aquarium and run the I/O through a piece of car exhaust to make it easier to keep sealed. I used thermal epoxy to affix some copper foam boilers to the CPU lid and GPU die. I let it boil like usual.

 

Instead of condensing the hot vapor back into liquid, I can just store it into an expanding tower of food packaging bags being pulled up by a pulley tied to a D.va Nerf toy as a counterweight. The bags being pulled up also reduces the pressure inside the aquarium to help lower the boiling point of the fluid.

 

Because the vapor is being passively stored, the system makes almost no sound. It only produces a super stealthy burbling noise that I don't hear unless I put my ear next to the case and listen carefully.

 

Once I am taking a break or done for the day, I use a powerful industrial chiller to quickly condense the vapor back down into liquid. All the noise to extract the heat can happen at once at whatever time is convenient. You can see this happening in the video, although there is also a standing fan in the background making noise.

IMG_20190528_185204.jpg

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4 minutes ago, Ecca said:

, I can just store it into an expanding tower of food packaging bags

isnt the plastic bags much noisier when expanding ?

so everything is sealed in a container... closed room heating....how long did you stress your setup?

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The bags are only noisy when un-expanding very fast. The expanding happens so slowly it isn't noisy.

 

The container is sealed but the heat is extracted. The longest I ever use my computer is maybe 4 hours, and it certainly lasts that long before needing to dump the heat out into the room. The heat it puts out into the room isn't much worse than a normal water loop.

 

Unfortunately, the boiling point of the liquid isn't very low, the thermal epoxy isn't the best, and the 1700x throttles at 75C, so I get poor performance under heavy loads. If I were to do it again, that's one of the biggest things I'd try differently.

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13 minutes ago, Ecca said:

so I get poor performance under heavy loads.

You have answered your own question in the title ?

 

Unique concept though.

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Just have to swap out the liquid and boiler plate, then everything is perfect in terms of performance.

 

The real reasons nobody does this is because the liquid is $100/liter, the space it takes up is absurd, swapping out components is awful without some kind of tray system, normal passive coolers work fine, and air coolers and traditional water loops can be quiet too.

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25 minutes ago, Ecca said:

Unfortunately, the boiling point of the liquid isn't very low, the thermal epoxy isn't the best, and the 1700x throttles at 75C, so I get poor performance under heavy loads. If I were to do it again, that's one of the biggest things I'd try differently.

still you need to mount low profile cooler fanless to cpu & gpu.

try lower the overclocks? to around 3.8ghz /1.3~1.35v?

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21 hours ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

still you need to mount low profile cooler fanless to cpu & gpu.

try lower the overclocks? to around 3.8ghz /1.3~1.35v?

I'm not even running OC. CPU is dead stock and it'll throttle itself down to 2 GHz whenever it's running a CPU benchmark. Meanwhile the GPU is clocking itself up to 1800-1900 MHz no problem.

 

The bulk of the heat transfer happens during the liquid's phase transition, so the GPU being OK with running at much higher temps than the CPU really helps it out too.

 

A low profile cooler would almost certainly be worse. It needs to be a small textured boiler to work well at all.

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1 hour ago, Ecca said:

CPU is dead stock and it'll throttle itself down to 2 GHz whenever

becoz the surface area of die, heat source, is too small, it had to be hot enough to heat up the liquid which usually has pretty bad conduction of heat and for pushing the hot liquid away..

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39 minutes ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

becoz the surface area of die, heat source, is too small

It has a copper foam boiler plate to increase the surface area. What is ideal here is a decent surface area but as close as possible to the die. Unfortunately, a copper foam boiler plate and thermal epoxy isn't nearly as good as a 3M BEC, which I don't have the tools I'd need to apply it and I have no idea how I can even get ahold of any of that to begin with.

 

41 minutes ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

and for pushing the hot liquid away

It doesn't need to push the hot liquid away. The point is to boil the liquid so it will bubble upward on its own.

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