Jump to content

First PC build, would appreciate suggestions

So currently I am looking into upgrading from a not very good HP pre-built desktop to something more suitable for gaming, and would like some advice, suggestions, tips and tricks to improve my current build list. My budget as of now is somewhere in the range from $1700-$1800 USD. As evidence by the reference to US dollars, I do live in the US. Some games that I would like to run much better are: Fortnite, GTA V, Rust, and possibly buy Just Cause 4 after I do finish the build. For my build, I do not much care for appearance of the components but the performance (so if possible, you don't need to include RGB or that many flashing colors for aesthetics as it could possibly be under or beside my desk), and the same simplistic look like the case I selected if you choose to alter the case. Also, although I do not need any peripherals for current recommendations, you could branch off the budget a bit more (not change PC components) but if you want you could include a reasonably priced (possibly RGB, wired) keyboard and mouse. I am also looking for a monitor that: does not have a bulky stand that would force the keyboard/mouse back towards me, at least 24" diagonally, and fast response times. Thank you for reading to the end of this post, I appreciate your patience.

 

Here is my current build list I have partly made with a friend but modified personally: 

 

CPUAMD Ryzen 7 2700X With Wraith Prism Cooler

CPU Cooler: (Stock, comes included with CPU) Wraith Prism Cooler

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming AM4 ATX AMD

Memory (RAM): G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 2 x 16GB DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit

Storage 1: Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA III 6Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

Storage 2: Inland Professional 240GB 3D TLC NAND SATA III 6GB/s 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (240G)

GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Overclocked Triple-Fan 8GB GDDR6 PCIe Video Card

Case: NZXT - H500 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Maybe it might be a little too much wattage, but I'd rather be able to upgrade)

Optical Drive: None

Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit

 

If my price range does not match, it's because I'm going to buy everything in this current build off MicroCenter, an actual store near me that allows me to get all of my components cheaper except the PSU and the Case. For now, this is what I have compiled. If you have any questions about my current listing, I'll see what I can do but I have a moderate understanding on what I'm doing, I'm not an expert. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd hold off until next week's CES where AMD's supposed to unveil 3rd gen Ryzen.

Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.9 Ghz  | Gigabyte AB350M Gaming 3 |  PaliT GTX 1050Ti  |  8gb Kingston HyperX Fury @ 2933 Mhz  |  Corsair CX550m  |  1 TB WD Blue HDD


Inside some old case I found lying around.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, bleedblue said:

I'd hold off until next week's CES where AMD's supposed to unveil 3rd gen Ryzen.

Alright, I'll look into that  next week. Thanks for the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Go b450 mobo so you don't have to mess with bios update.  Save money and get the 2700 non X and just do some mild overclocking. 700 watt psu would be sufficient. Spend $20 more on a quality ssd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, JammyCreedog said:

Go b450 mobo so you don't have to mess with bios update.  Save money and get the 2700 non X and just do some mild overclocking. 700 watt psu would be sufficient. Spend $20 more on a quality ssd.

Ok, I'll improve my build selection on your suggestions. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it as a new builder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, DirtyRift said:

(Maybe it might be a little too much wattage, but I'd rather be able to upgrade)

upgrade to what exactly? triple 2080 ti? see my bio for a good point of reference for power consumption.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, DirtyRift said:

So currently I am looking into upgrading from a not very good HP pre-built desktop to something more suitable for gaming, and would like some advice, suggestions, tips and tricks to improve my current build list. My budget as of now is somewhere in the range from $1700-$1800 USD. As evidence by the reference to US dollars, I do live in the US. Some games that I would like to run much better are: Fortnite, GTA V, Rust, and possibly buy Just Cause 4 after I do finish the build. For my build, I do not much care for appearance of the components but the performance (so if possible, you don't need to include RGB or that many flashing colors for aesthetics as it could possibly be under or beside my desk), and the same simplistic look like the case I selected if you choose to alter the case. Also, although I do not need any peripherals for current recommendations, you could branch off the budget a bit more (not change PC components) but if you want you could include a reasonably priced (possibly RGB, wired) keyboard and mouse. I am also looking for a monitor that: does not have a bulky stand that would force the keyboard/mouse back towards me, at least 24" diagonally, and fast response times. Thank you for reading to the end of this post, I appreciate your patience.

 

Here is my current build list I have partly made with a friend but modified personally: 

 

CPUAMD Ryzen 7 2700X With Wraith Prism Cooler

CPU Cooler: (Stock, comes included with CPU) Wraith Prism Cooler

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming AM4 ATX AMD

Memory (RAM): G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 2 x 16GB DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit

Storage 1: Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA III 6Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

Storage 2: Inland Professional 240GB 3D TLC NAND SATA III 6GB/s 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (240G)

GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Overclocked Triple-Fan 8GB GDDR6 PCIe Video Card

Case: NZXT - H500 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Maybe it might be a little too much wattage, but I'd rather be able to upgrade)

Optical Drive: None

Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit

 

If my price range does not match, it's because I'm going to buy everything in this current build off MicroCenter, an actual store near me that allows me to get all of my components cheaper except the PSU and the Case. For now, this is what I have compiled. If you have any questions about my current listing, I'll see what I can do but I have a moderate understanding on what I'm doing, I'm not an expert. Thanks.

B350 would require a bios update to be functional with Am4. Micro center will price match. Need a better SSD, Inland is super cheap, something from a Crucial on the mid teer or Samsungs nVME drives like the 970 on the high end. Much much better performance. If your not going to overclock the stock cooler is alright, but not good. Maybe pick up a noctua air cooler or a 240mm aio from the likes of corsair or Nzxt. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, DirtyRift said:

I appreciate it as a new builder.

quite impressive for 1st time build start off with high end pc, definitely overkill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, fasauceome said:

upgrade to what exactly? triple 2080 ti? see my bio for a good point of reference for power consumption.

Yes, as I said I'm not as experienced as I would like to be, I'll check out your point of reference for power consumption.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, django_keyes said:

B350 would require a bios update to be functional with Am4

not quite the correct terminology. Also, it's very likely the board has already had the update depending on date of manufacture, and if not, AMD sens out a free boot kit if necessary.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Khalpone said:

I see no reason to skimp out at that budget,

Well the main reason to "skimp out" would be that the only increase in performance whatsoever would be seen when reading or writing enormous files.  Since OP seems to have specified a gaming PC, the only real benefit to NVMe drives would be the form factor, but a SATA M.2 would feel the exact same.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Well the main reason to "skimp out" would be that the only increase in performance whatsoever would be seen when reading or writing enormous files.  Since OP seems to have specified a gaming PC, the only real benefit to NVMe drives would be the form factor, but a SATA M.2 would feel the exact same.

Game files have to load. Textures have to be loaded to VRAM. Etc, etc.

 

While I would understand sticking to a SATA SSD in a lower budget range, saving $40 to have dramatically slower storage seems odd. But to each their own ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Khalpone said:

Game files have to load. Textures have to be loaded to VRAM. Etc, etc.

 

While I would understand sticking to a SATA SSD in a lower budget range, saving $40 to have dramatically slower storage seems odd. But to each their own ?

Unfortunately load times have no appreciable gains whatsoever (tested it myself ya know)

 

It's definitely not "dramatically slower" in practical use.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×