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screen surface repair - did I have a better option?

Kalm_Traveler
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Short story - I dropped a sharp pointy thing out of my attic and it decided to jump across the room and scratch my Asus PG348Q screen - not enough to cause the LEDs to break but deep enough that you could totally feel it and see the light refraction.

 

After googling, all I saw for repair advice was to fill in the scratch with goop like vaseline or lotion - neither of which actually 'fix' the issue as far as I was concerned, and I figured the only professional fix would be to pay Asus to give me a new screen which also seemed stupid since the scratch was just in the outer plastic layer.

 

This got me thinking, how are scratches dealt with on other objects? Ah yes - for my plastic headlights I use plastic polish to buff them out. I had a bottle on hand and decided to give this a try on the monitor by applying it with a paper towel in a swirling motion for a good 20 minutes.

 

My fingers couldn't take it anymore, but there was very obvious progress made so I though "ok how can I automate this? ah yes, a dremel with polishing/buffing wheel ought to do the trick!" Except that I broke the attachment for using those wheels. No matter - 20 minute trip to the hardware store for a new Dremel kit and we were in business.

 

After very gently buffing the scratch with the dremel on ~ 3000 RPM for about 15 more minutes, I can't see the scratch at all. If the screen is off and you look at an angle you can see that area is smoother/polished compared to the rest of the monitor but in use it doesn't appear any differently whatsoever. I did noticed that the area I had been dremel-buffing was slightly blue-tinted for about 10 minutes afterwards but now appears to be the correct color again.

 

 

Should I have done something different?

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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1 hour ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Short story - I dropped a sharp pointy thing out of my attic and it decided to jump across the room and scratch my Asus PG348Q screen - not enough to cause the LEDs to break but deep enough that you could totally feel it and see the light refraction.

 

After googling, all I saw for repair advice was to fill in the scratch with goop like vaseline or lotion - neither of which actually 'fix' the issue as far as I was concerned, and I figured the only professional fix would be to pay Asus to give me a new screen which also seemed stupid since the scratch was just in the outer plastic layer.

 

This got me thinking, how are scratches dealt with on other objects? Ah yes - for my plastic headlights I use plastic polish to buff them out. I had a bottle on hand and decided to give this a try on the monitor by applying it with a paper towel in a swirling motion for a good 20 minutes.

 

My fingers couldn't take it anymore, but there was very obvious progress made so I though "ok how can I automate this? ah yes, a dremel with polishing/buffing wheel ought to do the trick!" Except that I broke the attachment for using those wheels. No matter - 20 minute trip to the hardware store for a new Dremel kit and we were in business.

  

After very gently buffing the scratch with the dremel on ~ 3000 RPM for about 15 more minutes, I can't see the scratch at all. If the screen is off and you look at an angle you can see that area is smoother/polished compared to the rest of the monitor but in use it doesn't appear any differently whatsoever. I did noticed that the area I had been dremel-buffing was slightly blue-tinted for about 10 minutes afterwards but now appears to be the correct color again.

  

 

Should I have done something different?

this is dope, i probably would've just cried and maybe bought a new screen or a new monitor, you didn't happen to take a before and after photo did you?

 

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17 minutes ago, Emanbaird said:

this is dope, i probably would've just cried and maybe bought a new screen or a new monitor, you didn't happen to take a before and after photo did you?

 

I didn't take a before, but I can take an after with it off if you want to see what I mean about that area looking obviously more shiny/polished than the rest of the screen.

 

TBH I was just freaking out since I really don't want to buy a new monitor lol

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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So what has likely happend is that you have maybe buffed through or partialy through the Anti Glare layer/coating. The color change was likely heat related.

 

You got lucky, the layers of a LCD are exceptionaly thin, if u had broken though one of them you likely would have ended up with an unsightly seam that imo would have had to result in you removing that particular layer (the anti glare) entirly, which is its own hassle as you have to remove the adhesive aswell. That is if the Anti glare was a film , rather than a spray on.

 

Still, if it has worked ..thats great.

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

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