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looking to add a network switch in my room, but need some advice

pettyfan45

So about 2 years ago I ran a ethernet cable to my room due to my metal loft bed causing issues with wifi (my house is so old we do not have ethernet in the walls) and it works great for my computer I have been doing more stuff on my PS4 as well and my cable is not quite long enough to reach it. I am thinking about putting a network switch but I don't have an extra power outlet for it in my room, I know Power of Ethernet it a thing but I don't know it need a special modem/ router for it or do they make network switches then are low power enough that I would power it off the USB port on my TV. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. 

 

 

*I have a modem/router combo unit, it is a Netgear C6300

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PoE is for supplying power to devices on the other end. There are a couple switches out there that are powered by PoE but you need a PoE capable device on the other side. No switches that I know of that can be USB powered though. You'll need a PoE powered switch and a PoE injector on the other side near the modem or something, or you'll have to find a power strip to add to the mix as well in your room to get another power outlet.

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Your use case has zero need, or requires nothing PoE.  Nor does PoE require anything special sans a wall plug in to give it the power to push power down the Ethernet cable to PoE devices (network phones, security cameras and such)

 

From what I know, you need a wall outlet no matter what for a switch, but I found this item that I cant really research atm but doesn't seem to at first glance require any additional power:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7253X11005&Description=ethernet splitter&cm_re=ethernet_splitter-_-9SIA7253X11005-_-Product

 

These are what I use in my house to split internet connections in rooms that require multiple hard lines, but requires a wall plug as it manages the flow of traffic on the switch:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704042&Description=Gigabit switch&cm_re=Gigabit_switch-_-33-704-042-_-Product

 

 

 

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Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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6 minutes ago, Lurick said:

PoE is for supplying power to devices on the other end. There are a couple switches out there that are powered by PoE but you need a PoE capable device on the other side. No switches that I know of that can be USB powered though. You'll need a PoE powered switch and a PoE injector on the other side near the modem or something, or you'll have to find a power strip to add to the mix as well in your room to get another power outlet.

I already have a pretty big power strip (10 outlet) and it full with the other outlet on the wall. So for PoE would just need an injector on the modem/router side and then a switch the use PoE?

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14 minutes ago, pettyfan45 said:

I already have a pretty big power strip (10 outlet) and it full with the other outlet on the wall. So for PoE would just need an injector on the modem/router side and then a switch the use PoE?

Yes

Current Network Layout:

Current Build Log/PC:

Prior Build Log/PC:

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10 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Your use case has zero need, or requires nothing PoE.  Nor does PoE require anything special sans a wall plug in to give it the power to push power down the Ethernet cable to PoE devices (network phones, security cameras and such)

 

From what I know, you need a wall outlet no matter what for a switch, but I found this item that I cant really research atm but doesn't seem to at first glance require any additional power:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7253X11005&Description=ethernet splitter&cm_re=ethernet_splitter-_-9SIA7253X11005-_-Product

 

These are what I use in my house to split internet connections in rooms that require multiple hard lines, but requires a wall plug as it manages the flow of traffic on the switch:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704042&Description=Gigabit switch&cm_re=Gigabit_switch-_-33-704-042-_-Product

 

 

 

The frist looks like it will kill the connection to to the nonactive device, less idea because that means my PS4 can't download updates instuff while it is in sleep mode but might be an option if it is the only option I have.

 

The second would be great if had an extra outlet for it ?

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1 minute ago, pettyfan45 said:

The frist looks like it will kill the connection to to the nonactive device, less idea because that means my PS4 can't download updates instuff while it is in sleep mode but might be an option if it is the only option I have.

 

The second would be great if had an extra outlet for it ?

The actual problem is your lack of outlets - is the power draw such that you cannot add a power strip without tripping the houses old fuses?

 

The first, from the reviews I read quickly (I cant research it sorry just chatting here while busy at work) show people using two items at once.  Do more research on that item and its ilk.  Just google and research "Ethernet splitter"

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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3 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

The actual problem is your lack of outlets - is the power draw such that you cannot add a power strip without tripping the houses old fuses?

 

The first, from the reviews I read quickly (I cant research it sorry just chatting here while busy at work) show people using two items at once.  Do more research on that item and its ilk.  Just google and research "Ethernet splitter"

Yeah the electrical in our house is real screwy, my sister can't plug a hairdryer into the bathroom we share without knocking out power in most of the upstairs (100 year old houses suck). We have breakers, but I don't think they were put in by a professional.

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Just now, pettyfan45 said:

Yeah the electrical in our house is real screwy, my sister can't plug a hairdryer into the bathroom we share without knocking out power in most of the upstairs (100 year old houses suck). We have breakers, but I don't think they were put in by a professional.

They were likely good when house was built...no worry, old glass tube breakers likely.  I understand.  So your limitations are purely based on that then.  I bet you there are non powered Ethernet splitters on the market, I just don't have the 20 minutes available at the moment to delve in to research, fairly sure the first one I linked required no extra power, and might be your only option (but I suggest you research further)

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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There are actually Switches powered by USB as I have one plugged into the TV upstairs, although that one is only 100Mbit.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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5 hours ago, pettyfan45 said:

Yeah the electrical in our house is real screwy, my sister can't plug a hairdryer into the bathroom we share without knocking out power in most of the upstairs (100 year old houses suck). We have breakers, but I don't think they were put in by a professional.

No scary is my dads garage. The entire garage is ran off 15 Amps. Thats it. He recently had the breaker box in the garage burn up. Had to rewire part of it. I think it was due to the fact he runs the xmas lights off the power out their. Plus he has his tools, such as the table saw, drills and a very small air compressor. Im waiting for the day the mother fucker burns down to be honest. 

 

You probably have a hage page of wiring like my home. My room has 1950's wiring. Some of the house has newer wiring. The house was built in 1930, and its kinda cobbled together. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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19 hours ago, pettyfan45 said:

So about 2 years ago I ran a ethernet cable to my room due to my metal loft bed causing issues with wifi (my house is so old we do not have ethernet in the walls) and it works great for my computer I have been doing more stuff on my PS4 as well and my cable is not quite long enough to reach it. I am thinking about putting a network switch but I don't have an extra power outlet for it in my room, I know Power of Ethernet it a thing but I don't know it need a special modem/ router for it or do they make network switches then are low power enough that I would power it off the USB port on my TV. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. 

 

 

*I have a modem/router combo unit, it is a Netgear C6300

If you don't need gigabit you could use this USB powered 100 megabit switch

https://shop.hak5.org/collections/ethernet-gear/products/micro-ethernet-switch

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