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Need a motherboard for this build, but I think the one I've already selected will need the BIOS update since its B350.

 

So I'm looking for a reccomendation for a B450 board, just need it to be as cheap as possible. As many suggestions as possible would be amazing, thanks!

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what b350 board did you actually choose?

 

Among B450s, Asrock Pro4 and MSI Bazooka/Gaming Plus will do

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

what b350 board did you actually choose?

 

Among B450s, Asrock Pro4 and MSI Bazooka/Gaming Plus will do

Check the list I just posted, apologies

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Yes that AB350 will need bios update to 4.5.

As for b450 boards, the 5 cheapest boards are the ASRock B450M-HDV, MSI B450M Pro-M2, MSI B450M Pro-VDH, Gigabyte B450M DS3H, and Asus Prime B450M-K.

-アパゾ

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8 minutes ago, eliott119 said:

Check the list I just posted, apologies

If cheap is what you want then sure, but pairing expensive fancy RAM sticks and cooler with an oudated group regulated PSU is not what I would have done.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

If cheap is what you want then sure, but pairing expensive fancy RAM sticks and cooler with an oudated group regulated PSU is not what I would have done.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean, you're saying you think its a bad idea to be pairing the RAM and cooler I've chosen with the PSU from my old build? Why would that be?

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Most motherboards you'll buy NOW will come from the factory with one of the latest BIOSes that will include support for Ryzen 2600.

Unless that motherboard sat on shelves for half a year or so (extremely unlikely), you'll be absolutely fine.

 

Version 4.50 for that Asrock AB350M was published in early March 2018, so it would be safe to say that starting from  May-June, all motherboards received by stores would have this BIOS already.

So if you like that board and the price, feel safe and free to buy it.

 

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2 minutes ago, eliott119 said:

I'm not sure I understand what you mean, you're saying you think its a bad idea to be pairing the RAM and cooler I've chosen with the PSU from my old build? Why would that be?

Wrong distribution of budget

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

Wrong distribution of budget

You're not really explaining, are you saying you think I've wrongly distributed my budget in regards to the RAM and cooler?

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4 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Most motherboards you'll buy NOW will come from the factory with one of the latest BIOSes that will include support for Ryzen 2600.

Unless that motherboard sat on shelves for half a year or so (extremely unlikely), you'll be absolutely fine.

 

Version 4.50 for that Asrock AB350M was published in early March 2018, so it would be safe to say that starting from  May-June, all motherboards received by stores would have this BIOS already.

So if you like that board and the price, feel safe and free to buy it.

 

Right okay, I think I'll stick with the original MB then and hope that it's been updated to the new BIOS. Many thanks for your help!

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4 minutes ago, eliott119 said:

You're not really explaining, are you saying you think I've wrongly distributed my budget in regards to the RAM and cooler?

I just feel there's a need for replacing the PSU, but you instead used that money to get flashy stuff.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

I just feel there's a need for replacing the PSU, but you instead used that money to get flashy stuff.

Right okay I understand now, so what do you think is wrong with my current PSU?

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If the pcpartpicker list is what you plan to buy, I'll have to agree with Jurrunio.

 

You're killing a lot of money on the case, for example .... it's very subjective, personally I like my systems all black or with shades of gray at most, maybe you like RGB a lot... still, you would find great cases at less than 100 pounds. 

Should shift a bit of money towards the power supply, best to get something with gold efficiency, and you could also shift a few pounds to motherboard. I'd get something with 4 memory slots, usb type c on the back, maybe usb 3 10gbps on back etc

You could save a few pounds by going with 3000 Mhz memory ... 3000 vs 3200 ... you won't feel the drop in frequency.

 

It would really help to know for sure what you already have and what you want to buy, I'd like to give you some feedback

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1 minute ago, mariushm said:

If the pcpartpicker list is what you plan to buy, I'll have to agree with Jurrunio.

 

You're killing a lot of money on the case, for example .... it's very subjective, personally I like my systems all black or with shades of gray at most, maybe you like RGB a lot... still, you would find great cases at less than 100 pounds. 

Should shift a bit of money towards the power supply, best to get something with gold efficiency, and you could also shift a few pounds to motherboard. I'd get something with 4 memory slots, usb type c on the back, maybe usb 3 10gbps on back etc

You could save a few pounds by going with 3000 Mhz memory ... 3000 vs 3200 ... you won't feel the drop in frequency.

 

It would really help to know for sure what you already have and what you want to buy, I'd like to give you some feedback

Firstly, thanks for being willing to help me out here :)

 

Really looking for a white matx case to make as RGB as possible, I like the tempered glass on the Corsair one which is why I chose it. Any alternatives you might suggest?

 

I mean the PSU I've had has always done me good, so I didn't think there'd be any point in upgrading it at all if I'm being honest

 

As for the MB I heard its VRMs might be an issue if I'm looking to overclock but I'm not looking for that, I'm also not really interested in moving up to 32GB RAM so the memory slots aren't an issue

 

I believe going to 3000 from 3200 with the RAM I've chosen only saves me like £3, I've already upgraded the CPU from a 1600 to a 2600 and the SSD from a 120gb to a 240gb, so I've already increased its budget as high as it can really go. An extra £20 for a sweet MB would be nice but I can't afford it on top of the upgrades I've already made

 

I already have the 970 and the CX 600M PSU, everything else I'm looking to buy - thoughts? 

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Just now, eliott119 said:

Right okay I understand now, so what do you think is wrong with my current PSU?

the voltage rails are group regulated. In modern systems which strain the 12V rail a lot more than the 5v and 3.3v rails it's much easier to kick the voltages of these units out of whack.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

the voltage rails are group regulated. In modern systems which strain the 12V rail a lot more than the 5v and 3.3v rails it's much easier to kick the voltages of these units out of whack.

Right okay, bit out of my depth on that but what does that essentially mean? Are you saying the PSU will eventually just stop working in a year or something, so I should upgrade to a more modern one now to avoid this?

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Plus it's not really 600w , it can output 560w on 12v provided the ambient temperature doesn't go above 30c .... when ambient goes up, you kinda have to derate that psu to maybe 450w on 12v

Luckily it's still enough for that system ... your GTX 970 will consume up to around 180 watts and your 2600 won't go over around 120 watts ... so the whole system will pull 300-350w on 12v when gaming... but with poor efficiency and maybe with a noisy fan.

4 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

the voltage rails are group regulated. In modern systems which strain the 12V rail a lot more than the 5v and 3.3v rails it's much easier to kick the voltages of these units out of whack.

 

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10 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Plus it's not really 600w , it can output 560w on 12v provided the ambient temperature doesn't go above 30c .... when ambient goes up, you kinda have to derate that psu to maybe 450w on 12v

Luckily it's still enough for that system ... your GTX 970 will consume up to around 180 watts and your 2600 won't go over around 120 watts ... so the whole system will pull 300-350w on 12v when gaming... but with poor efficiency and maybe with a noisy fan.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, not stressed on if it's the most power efficient or whatever. I replied to your previous post btw :)

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15 minutes ago, eliott119 said:

Right okay, bit out of my depth on that but what does that essentially mean? Are you saying the PSU will eventually just stop working in a year or something, so I should upgrade to a more modern one now to avoid this?

essentially means it's a thing you should get rid of when you have the money (which you clarely have)

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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18 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

essentially means it's a thing you should get rid of when you have the money (which you clarely have)

So whats the downside if I chose to not get rid of it? Whats going to end up happening/being a problem?

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9 minutes ago, eliott119 said:

So whats the downside if I chose to not get rid of it? Whats going to end up happening/being a problem?

longevity, Just like eating junk food for life. Also no guarantees on what will happen if accidents happen

 

If you ask me to build something

RGB air cooler to save some cost, not like Ryzen 5 2600 needs more cooling

 

Motherboard with RGB lights without costing too much

 

RGB memory stick that's cheaper

 

DRAM-less SSD like the A400 are slower than those with DRAM like the MX500, while 500GB SSDs are better value than ~250gb ones.

 

RGB case that's not too expensive

 

PSU that's good enough by today's standard

 

full set of RGB fans and RGB controller (connects to motherboard's specific connector)

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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