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Z170 vs Z270 for 6700k

Wanting to upgrade from Msi Z170A gaming M5 to Z170A Gaming M7 or Z270 Gaming M7 just wondering if there is any benefit of getting the z270 over the z170 (I know Optane is pretty much incompatible with skylake and I dont care for it anyways lol), wanting to upgrade mainly for overclocking and some more hardware expansion (Moar HDDs, SSDs,Sli,watercooling RGB headders etc)  I hardcore messed when I built this pc (First time builder fails) and bought a gaming m5 that dose not have LLC and I dont feel like frying my 6700k anytime soon with high voltages just to get around 4.5 ghz unstable with vdroop crashing my pc. currently around 4.4ghz stable any info would be great thanks, And if there is already a thread on this a link would be great thanks and I will delete this post lol. (Right now both are around the same price on amazon)

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Overclocking is largely dependent on silicon lottery. Sure, a good mb helps but not as much. The difference is negligible, maybe 50 Mhz.

If you need the extra features such as rgb headers and aesthetics then go ahead.

Core i7 7700k Kabylake stock + Kraken x52 | ASUS Z170-A | 8GB DDR4 2133MHz HyperX | ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 STRIX 6GB | 250GB SSD Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB HDD WD RE4 | Seasonic X-Series 650w | Corsair 460x RGB  | Win 10 Pro 64 bit | Corsair M65 PRO RGB Mouse | Corsair K70 RGB RapidFire

 

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Mobo upgrade with the same CPU is a bad way to spend money. It wont give you any more OC headroom

 

LLC isnt needed at all for overclocking. I never use it.

 

SATA and M.2 ports can be obtained with PCIe expansion cards, while extra fan and RGB headers can also be obtained with controllers. Asus makes one of these as well

https://www.asus.com/Motherboard-Accessory/FAN-EXTENSION-CARD/

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

Mobo upgrade with the same CPU is a bad way to spend money. It wont give you any more OC headroom

 

LLC isnt needed at all for overclocking. I never use it.

 

SATA and M.2 ports can be obtained with PCIe expansion cards.

I never really had much luck with my current mobo for overclocking over 4.4ghz, maybe my PSU is garbage and is cutting out but in order to get a relativley stable overclock around 4.6 ghz I had to push the voltage all the way to 1.397v on the core to keep it from crashing (or maybe I lost the silicon lottery :() but anyways thanks yeah guess its not really worth it if Im keeping my skylake

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59 minutes ago, N-Kryptic said:

I never really had much luck with my current mobo for overclocking over 4.4ghz, maybe my PSU is garbage and is cutting out but in order to get a relativley stable overclock around 4.6 ghz I had to push the voltage all the way to 1.397v on the core to keep it from crashing (or maybe I lost the silicon lottery :() but anyways thanks yeah guess its not really worth it if Im keeping my skylake

nearly 1.4V under full load for 4.4GHz?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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6 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

nearly 1.4V under full load for 4.4GHz?

No its 1.3 ish (the Mobo auto clocks it) its around 1.4 any higher clock speed ,maybe there is some settings im missing in the bios :/

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6 minutes ago, N-Kryptic said:

No its 1.3 ish (the Mobo auto clocks it) its around 1.4 any higher clock speed ,maybe there is some settings im missing in the bios :/

Dont use auto voltage, use offset instead (and keep c-states and other power saving tech enabled). Apply the offset to make it the voltage applied when full load correct, then you can leave it. At idle the voltage will automatically drop.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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24 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Dont use auto voltage, use offset instead (and keep c-states and other power saving tech enabled). Apply the offset to make it the voltage applied when full load correct, then you can leave it. At idle the voltage will automatically drop.

Sorry the Motherboard that has a preset for 4.4Ghz and it uses a preset voltage around 1.3volts im just using that for now,Hmm will have to go through bios settings and mess around with it

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