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De-ionised Water?

Hello Everyone, just a quick question for any water-coolers...

 

Is it necessary to buy a "triple distilled"/ super processed version of de-ionised water like this:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr-wc-102-mh.html

 

Or is it perfectly fine to use a more cost effective solution of de-ionised water like this:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/halfords-battery-top-up-water-5l

 

Just to clarify, they are both de-ionised water products. It would be great to know if its really worth £13.99 + £10.00 postage over £3.50 and a short drive in the car.

 

It would be awesome if anyone has ever tried using some standard de-ionised water could give there findings here. But general thoughts will be useful too...

 

Thanks in advance.

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9 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

Hello Everyone, just a quick question for any water-coolers...

 

Is it necessary to buy a "triple distilled"/ super processed version of de-ionised water like this:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr-wc-102-mh.html

 

Or is it perfectly fine to use a more cost effective solution of de-ionised water like this:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/halfords-battery-top-up-water-5l

 

Just to clarify, they are both de-ionised water products. It would be great to know if its really worth £13.99 + £10.00 postage over £3.50 and a short drive in the car.

 

It would be awesome if anyone has ever tried using some standard de-ionised water could give there findings here. But general thoughts will be useful too...

 

Thanks in advance.

Deionised is just non conductive water, it doesn't matter. It'll just prevent your components to corrode if it like has aluminium.

-- BSOD : ( --

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3 minutes ago, Zackbare said:

It'll just prevent your components to corrode if it like has aluminium.

no it won't

in time water will ionize and it will corrode mixed metals - you actually need to add agents to it and biocides 

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That's similar to what I'm thinking. It essentially reduces the chances of shorting a component if it were to leak. As far as I am aware after some time (I've heard in a matter of months) it's going to become conductive from the metallic components in the loop.

 

I suppose its a layer of protection for a short period of time while leak testing at least...

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Super-pure water doesn't make much sense when it'll immediately pick up ions from whatever you pour it into, making it practically no different from the less purified stuff.

 

Even pure water is conductive and mildly corrosive, since water autoprotolyses and acts as both an acid and a base. And if it's exposed to air, atmospheric CO2 adds carbonic acid, making it more acidic and increasing its conductivity.

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It will be mixed with a Pastel Red 'concentrate'. However the cheaper de-ionized water is primarily designed for car batteries, which I think comes with necessary additives to prevent bacteria growing - I could be completely backwards on that though.

 

This then makes me question if I do want something more pure so it doesn't react with the Pastel Red 'concentrate' - it is recommended by the manufacturer to not add other anti-bacterial additives for that reason... I don't know.

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3 hours ago, Aloe Vera said:

It will be mixed with a Pastel Red 'concentrate'. However the cheaper de-ionized water is primarily designed for car batteries, which I think comes with necessary additives to prevent bacteria growing - I could be completely backwards on that though.

 

This then makes me question if I do want something more pure so it doesn't react with the Pastel Red 'concentrate' - it is recommended by the manufacturer to not add other anti-bacterial additives for that reason... I don't know.

The fluid contains all the biocides and anticorrsive elements within itself so all you need is to add distilled water ideally, de-ionized will work. The issue isn't the pastel reacting with the distilled water but to contaminates in the loop if it wasn't cleaned well or it just degrading as it ages. 

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Excellent, so its just a case of having some decent water (distilled or de-ionized) to flush out the water-cooling equipment thoroughly before building. And then adding some to mix in with the Pastel Concentrate.

 

Nice info W-L,

 

Let me know if I've got something wrong there...

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33 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

Excellent, so its just a case of having some decent water (distilled or de-ionized) to flush out the water-cooling equipment thoroughly before building. And then adding some to mix in with the Pastel Concentrate.

 

Nice info W-L,

 

Let me know if I've got something wrong there...

You can use regular tap water and give it a dozen rinses or flushes to the rads toensure nothing is left in them. After just be sure to do a few final rinses with distilled before assembly to ensure all minerals and such from the tap water are removed. Things such as blocks don't really need cleaning but a quick rinse through with distilled doesn't hurt to remove any dust and such. 

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De-ionized water will re-ionize.  Play it safe.

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