Safe to run pump at full speed?

[Honeydiddle]

Hi all,

 

Just a random question really.. I have a liang D5 Vario pump and funnily enough it runs the quietest on its fastest speed (5) Would this be damaging at all?

 

Thanks

[M-ursu]

No, because it is meant to be run at full speed.

(also D5 pumps are meant to be run at 24v, so if you are powering it trough Molex, you cant run it at max speed).

[Samdb]

Pumps are designed to be run at full speed and with a 5 year MTBF there really isn't a chance that your system will out live it.

[B NEGATIVE]

No, because it is meant to be run at full speed.

(also D5 pumps are meant to be run at 24v, so if you are powering it trough Molex, you cant run it at max speed).

 

Not true,only the D5 Strong gains any benefit from 24v,the standard Vario and stock model do not gain anything being run at 24v,this is why 12v is used.

The D5 will suck up full speed for 24 hr use with no ill effects,unlike the DDC's...............

[M-ursu]

Not true,only the D5 Strong gains any benefit from 24v,the standard Vario and stock model do not gain anything being run at 24v,this is why 12v is used.

The D5 will suck up full speed for 24 hr use with no ill effects,unlike the DDC's...............

Well Ghost knows better than us.

[Parkway Drive]

Well Ghost knows better than us.

 

He mentioned in another post that he heard the most optimal setting was between 10V - 16V.

But I'll let him clarify. @Ghost

 

Not sure there'd be a whole lot of benefit running it any quicker but running it at 12V is no problem for a D5.

[alpenwasser]

Will it damage the pump? No.

As for 12 V vs 24 V, I think most people are not aware that there is actually

such a thing as a D5 Strong. See here for a review.

Bottom line: This graph compares the strong vs. the Vario: (source)

And this compares Vario on 12 V vs Vario on 24 V: (source)

So yeah, as B- has said, there is a dedicated 24 V version for this pump that actually

benefits from being run at 24 V, and there is a version which will tolerate being fed

24 V, but not greatly benefit from it.

[B NEGATIVE]

Well Ghost knows better than us.

 

I have been doing this a long time and have made in depth posts in this on OCN on this subject and i have the pumps to make comparisons with,Ghost does not.

 

Dont confuse a low post count with not knowing what im talking about,I am very well known on a variety of watercooling forums.

He mentioned in another post that he heard the most optimal setting was between 10V - 16V.

But I'll let him clarify. @Ghost

 

Not sure there'd be a whole lot of benefit running it any quicker but running it at 12V is no problem for a D5.

 

I can clarify for you right now,i have the strong versions and the vario versions,the strong version has a large output increase at 24v

 

Will it damage the pump? No.

As for 12 V vs 24 V, I think most people are not aware that there is actually

such a thing as a D5 Strong. See here for a review.

Bottom line: This graph compares the strong vs. the Vario: (source)

And this compares Vario on 12 V vs Vario on 24 V: (source)

So yeah, as B- has said, there is a dedicated 24 V version for this pump that actually

benefits from being run at 24 V, and there is a version which will tolerate being fed

24 V, but not greatly benefit from it.

 

 

Exactly.

 

I have tested this myself as well as Martin,Im well aware of what im talking about.

[alpenwasser]

Im well aware of what im talking about.

Well as the OP for OCN's W/C club thread you better be!

Which reminds me, I still have to join, (so many clubs over there :lol: ).

[B NEGATIVE]

Well as the OP for OCN's W/C club thread you better be!

Which reminds me, I still have to join, (so many clubs over there :lol: ).

6.4 million views....51000 posts....its a watercooling masterclass! :lol:

 

Join up Alpenwasser,we would love it.

[Ghost]

Not true,only the D5 Strong gains any benefit from 24v,the standard Vario and stock model do not gain anything being run at 24v,this is why 12v is used.

The D5 will suck up full speed for 24 hr use with no ill effects,unlike the DDC's...............

The vario D5 does gain benefit from 24V.... Look at the manufacturer specification of the pump:

 

 

And the big benefit is from the "Strong" variant rather than the stock pump.

 

But all variants of the D5 gets hot running at 24V anyway. In a loop as small as this the extra heat from running at 24V may lead to worse performance.

 

nb. By hot I don't mean "over heat" I mean it's hotter than the coolant and therefore adding heat to the loop. 50W is not insignificant.

 

And 12V is used because it's easy as you have a 12V rail in every PC power supply. You would have to convert to 24V (which is inefficient power wise) and adds another point of failure and extra cost to the loop.

[alpenwasser]

6.4 million views....51000 posts....its a watercooling masterclass! :lol:

 

Join up Alpenwasser,we would love it.

On it as we converse.

[B NEGATIVE]

Not true,only the D5 Strong gains any benefit from 24v,the standard Vario and stock model do not gain anything being run at 24v,this is why 12v is used.

The D5 will suck up full speed for 24 hr use with no ill effects,unlike the DDC's...............

 

 

The vario D5 does gain benefit from 24V.... Look at the manufacturer specification of the pump:

 

 

And the big benefit is from the "Strong" variant rather than the stock pump.

 

But all variants of the D5 gets hot running at 24V anyway. In a loop as small as this the extra heat from running at 24V may lead to worse performance.

 

nb. By hot I don't mean "over heat" I mean it's hotter than the coolant and therefore adding heat to the loop. 50W is not insignificant.

 

And 12V is used because it's easy as you have a 12V rail in every PC power supply. You would have to convert to 24V (which is inefficient power wise) and adds another point of failure and extra cost to the loop.

 

Exactly what i said.

 

50w isnt added,you have not taken away the original heat input from the d5 at 12v,the input is actually 37w at 24v minus the 25w the stock unit uses.

 

24v controllers are much cheaper than a second pump and they dont fail,i have had one at full power for over 2 years with a pair of D5 Strongs,if power efficiency is you thing then watercooling is not for you.

 

 

 

If you look at the real world testing quoted,then you will see that any improvement is over the 2.5 GPM range,you will not see that in RL use.

And the quoted Laing specs are for 3/4 barbs,not for the 1/4 we use.

 

Martin summed it up very well...

 

 

I could see people buying this pump to start out their system and simply running it at 12V until some time down the road when they expanded to a more restrictive system.  Then they could simply upgrade the pumping power by adding the 24V controller. At 24V, this pump is going to be more than enough power for even the most restrictive of setups such as full motherboard blocks etc.  You won’t need that for your typical CPU/GPU loop, but it’s nice knowing the power is ready to be tapped with a simple voltage boost.

 

I recommend these as they have been consistantly great performers at 12 or 24v in my experience.

 

Also worth remembering that 37w of power doesnt mean 37w of heat.

 

[Ghost]

Exactly what i said.

 

50w isnt added,you have not taken away the original heat input from the d5 at 12v,the input is actually 37w at 24v minus the 25w the stock unit uses.

 

24v controllers are much cheaper than a second pump and they dont fail,i have had one at full power for over 2 years with a pair of D5 Strongs,if power efficiency is you thing then watercooling is not for you.

 

Well you made out that using 24V on a vario doesn't change anything. It does increase flow a little bit. With two pumps in series that increase can become substantial.

 

I wouldn't trust a cheap 12V to 24V converter from eBay to keep my whole system from overheating. By adding that converter you are making the whole cooling of your system dependant on that one component working. I would definatley prefer something branded so I have someone to talk to if something goes wrong.

 

Getting a second hand DDC/D5 in series for about the same price as a good converter can give better performance and increased reliability as opposed to a decrease. (Prices come from a Koolance voltage converter (£40) and a rough averge pump selling price on eBay for pumps)

[B NEGATIVE]

Well you made out that using 24V on a vario doesn't change anything. It does increase flow a little bit. With two pumps in series that increase can become substantial.

 

I wouldn't trust a cheap 12V to 24V converter from eBay to keep my whole system from overheating. By adding that converter you are making the whole cooling of your system dependant on that one component working. I would definatley prefer something branded so I have someone to talk to if something goes wrong.

 

Getting a second hand DDC/D5 in series for about the same price as a good converter can give better performance and increased reliability as opposed to a decrease. (Prices come from a Koolance voltage converter (£40) and a rough averge pump selling price on eBay for pumps)

You are nitpicking.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?170217-Some-Laing-D5-Testing-13.1-24V-is-the-same

 

 

 

What more proof do you need?

The gains are miniscule and appear at the very top end of flow rate,as i have already explained,normally unobtainable.

The whole loop is a system of single components working,the controller is nothing different. If the controller fails (unlikely) then just run the D5 at 12v.

 

I made no suggestions of buying a cheap 24v converter,I suggest the koolance 24v controller i use

I do not recommend buying any pumps second hand,you have no guarantee of performance or MTBF,buying a second hand DDC is even more of a fools economy...

 

So,40 is a better purchase than 70 for a new d5 and then whatever you spent on a top,fittings and extra tube.

Thats even if you can even fit a second D5 in some of the smaller rigs out there

 

Im sorry that you dont agree with me or Martin but thats the way it is.

[Ghost]

The whole loop is a system of single components working,the controller is nothing different. If the controller fails (unlikely) then just run the D5 at 12v.

 

I made no suggestions of buying a cheap 24v converter,I suggest the koolance 24v controller i use

I do not recommend buying any pumps second hand,you have no guarantee of performance or MTBF,buying a second hand DDC is even more of a fools economy...

 

So,40 is a better purchase than 70 for a new d5 and then whatever you spent on a top,fittings and extra tube.

Thats even if you can even fit a second D5 in some of the smaller rigs out there

I am not worried about having to run the pump at 12V for a while if it fails. I'm worried about the system being at load when it fails.

 

I bought a DDC pump two years ago and it has been running 12 hours a day for two years. As long as there is no visible damage to the impeller when I buy the pump I would not be worried, it never hurts to ask to see the invoice for when the pump was purchased too.

 

Though I agree that this is a better choice for people with a limit of space.

[B NEGATIVE]

Its the PCB which is the problem,they overheat and melt bits,replaced too many DDC PCBs for people to recommend them. The 10w is a different breed tho,very reliable pump,its only when power increases that they start to fail.

 

A little safety tip for you if pump fail is a concern,hook up the tach wire to the cpu fan header and set the bios to switch off when CPU fan fails,when the board sees zero rpm from the pump,it switches off

A free and helpful pump fail solution.

 

 

I thought your loop had a D5 in it?

[Ghost]

Its the PCB which is the problem,they overheat and melt bits,replaced too many DDC PCBs for people to recommend them. The 10w is a different breed tho,very reliable pump,its only when power increases that they start to fail.

 

A little safety tip for you if pump fail is a concern,hook up the tach wire to the cpu fan header and set the bios to switch off when CPU fan fails,when the board sees zero rpm from the pump,it switches off

A free and helpful pump fail solution.

 

 

I thought your loop had a D5 in it?

I have a D5 ready to put in it. To replace the DDC.

 

But I have the DDC 1T-Plus and it's fine, never had issues.

[Parkway Drive]

This is like watching Thor and Iron Man go at it.

Damn enjoyable read.

Two gods in watercooling, nice. 

[B NEGATIVE]

I have a D5 ready to put in it. To replace the DDC.

 

But I have the DDC 1T-Plus and it's fine, never had issues.

 

Everyone needs a D5 in their life.

This is like watching Thor and Iron Man go at it.

Damn enjoyable read.

Two gods in watercooling, nice. 

 

Discussion shouldnt be confused with arguement.