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Air pockets in loop

1 minute ago, W-L said:

Thicker and softer foam material would be better for preventing the transfer of vibration. 

 

The pump will solidly mount to the top to create a seal so that would be no where to install foam, only on the physical unit itself. 

I mean this area back here. Or maybe its not tightened enough? Or should i be using a longer thicker material?

00B9A7FB-B427-46CD-BFF9-F0CB3BF34052.png

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1 minute ago, ChrisZH said:

I mean this area back here. Or maybe its not tightened enough? Or should i be using a longer thicker material?

 

That rear plate is what holds the pump onto the top you want to make sure that is tight enough but do not over tighten as you will crack the acrylic top. The only place you need foam for vibration dampening is on the bottom under the foot. You can even use some very soft packing foam or kitchen sponges if you need more material.

 

I've personally done this to HDD's where they are mounting on a plate and isolated with a large foam pad to prevent vibration or resonance from occurring in PC cases. 

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1 hour ago, W-L said:

That rear plate is what holds the pump onto the top you want to make sure that is tight enough but do not over tighten as you will crack the acrylic top. The only place you need foam for vibration dampening is on the bottom under the foot. You can even use some very soft packing foam or kitchen sponges if you need more material.

 

I've personally done this to HDD's where they are mounting on a plate and isolated with a large foam pad to prevent vibration or resonance from occurring in PC cases. 

Yea i was just thinking maybe putting some foam between the bottom of the pump and the mounting holes on the legs might help some?

 

Also i notice when i turn my pump off and everything settles all the liquid fills the res. But when i turn it back on the liquid level drops significantly for a little while and then rises up again. When it drops should i quickly add more liquid to the loop to try and force the air bubbles out?

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49 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

Yea i was just thinking maybe putting some foam between the bottom of the pump and the mounting holes on the legs might help some?

 

Also i notice when i turn my pump off and everything settles all the liquid fills the res. But when i turn it back on the liquid level drops significantly for a little while and then rises up again. When it drops should i quickly add more liquid to the loop to try and force the air bubbles out?

Yes that is where you are suppose to put the foam. 

 

As for the fluid level how much does it rise by, sounds like you still have a trapped pocket of air you need to move the system around to help dislodge the air as said before. If you fill it the loop when on and it's low will overflow when you turn it off.

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4 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yes that is where you are suppose to put the foam. 

 

As for the fluid level how much does it rise by, sounds like you still have a trapped pocket of air you need to move the system around to help dislodge the air as said before. If you fill it the loop when on and it's low will overflow when you turn it off.

Ive been reading that the way i have my inlet and outlet on my reservoir is wrong? Do i need to have my inlet and outlet on the bottom of the reservoir?

 

and i know its a huge air pocket that is stuck. Im going to get one of those bent tube plastic fill bottles tomorrow so when it starts going down i can add more liquid to the reservoir.

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7 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

Ive been reading that the way i have my inlet and outlet on my reservoir is wrong? Do i need to have my inlet and outlet on the bottom of the reservoir?

 

and i know its a huge air pocket that is stuck. Im going to get one of those bent tube plastic fill bottles tomorrow so when it starts going down i can add more liquid to the reservoir.

The inlet and outlet are not a problem you can have a top inlet and bottle outlet into the pump. 

 

Filling the loop won't make a difference you need to bleed the loop of all air and trapped air pockets before topping up the loop. This can be a slow process and waiting or having to force the air out by vary the pump speed, moving the case around or even having to crack some of the ports on the rad to help remove air. 

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3 minutes ago, W-L said:

The inlet and outlet are not a problem you can have a top inlet and bottle outlet into the pump. 

 

Filling the loop won't make a difference you need to bleed the loop of all air and trapped air pockets before topping up the loop. This can be a slow process and waiting or having to force the air out by vary the pump speed, moving the case around or even having to crack some of the ports on the rad to help remove air. 

Im thinking when the water in the res goes down when i turn it on i might be sucking some more air and bringing it into the loop. Thats why i was thinking adding more to it when it starts draining would possibly force the air bubbles to move along the loop instead of getting stuck. When i see the res drain, i see a lot of tiny air bubbles in the res until the water starts flowing in through the inlet

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2 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

Im thinking when the water in the res goes down when i turn it on i might be sucking some more air and bringing it into the loop. Thats why i was thinking adding more to it when it starts draining would possibly force the air bubbles to move along the loop instead of getting stuck. When i see the res drain, i see a lot of tiny air bubbles in the res until the water starts flowing in through the inlet

If it's fluid coming from the inlet that is normal since the inlet is above the waterline and there is no back pressure to keep it in the tubing. That's why internal tubes are used to prevent that and splashing noises. If that's the problem you are seeing filling it above that level will help but note when you crack the port when the pump is off it will overflow due to the fluid higher up forcing it's way down. 

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Just now, W-L said:

If it's fluid coming from the inlet that is normal since the inlet is above the waterline and there is no back pressure to keep it in the tubing. That's why internal tubes are used to prevent that and splashing noises. If that's the problem you are seeing filling it above that level will help but note when you crack the port when the pump is off it will overflow due to the fluid higher up forcing it's way down. 

Do you know any stores in the US that sell filling bottles?

 

I think i would have to take a video to show you what happens instead of try to explain it lol im having a hard time trying to explain it right

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Just now, ChrisZH said:

Do you know any stores in the US that sell filling bottles?

 

I think i would have to take a video to show you what happens instead of try to explain it lol im having a hard time trying to explain it right

Yeah a video may be best, those bottles you can get most places online as chemical squeeze bottles. 

https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR0E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?

 

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yeah a video may be best, those bottles you can get most places online as chemical squeeze bottles. 

https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR0E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?

 

Was hoping to stop by a store and get one after work. Well i can get a normal squeeze bottle and attach it to some tubing and use the tubing to fill instead i guess. 

 

Im just really trying to figure this all out so i can move on with cables and stuff. Didnt think id be running into these problems haha

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1 hour ago, ChrisZH said:

Was hoping to stop by a store and get one after work. Well i can get a normal squeeze bottle and attach it to some tubing and use the tubing to fill instead i guess. 

 

Im just really trying to figure this all out so i can move on with cables and stuff. Didnt think id be running into these problems haha

The pleasure of watercooling, sometimes you have odd things that don't always go to plan.  This should be easy to remedy once filled of it it still has that issue moving the inlet to the bottom for middle top port to use an internal tube. 

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1 minute ago, W-L said:

The pleasure of watercooling, sometimes you have odd things that don't always go to plan.  This should be easy to remedy once filled of it it still has that issue moving the inlet to the bottom for middle top port to use an internal tube. 

So i should have my inlet and outlet on the bottom two ports? Let me

post a picture of the reservoir i have.

 

on the middle ports at the top and bottom i have these tubes that go down. But i have this rgb strip that goes into the top one so I can put the strip down. So then the one at the bottom i was going to use for the outlet to the pump, so i thought id use the one above that as an outlet for my drain valve. I guess if i drain it out enough so i can rearrange my ports it would be better. But honestly i like the way it looks right now. Just not sure its correct.

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1 minute ago, ChrisZH said:

So i should have my inlet and outlet on the bottom two ports? Let me

post a picture of the reservoir i have.

 

on the middle ports at the top and bottom i have these tubes that go down. But i have this rgb strip that goes into the top one so I can put the strip down. So then the one at the bottom i was going to use for the outlet to the pump, so i thought id use the one above that as an outlet for my drain valve. I guess if i drain it out enough so i can rearrange my ports it would be better. But honestly i like the way it looks right now. Just not sure its correct.

From what you have described having it on the bottom will prevent the inlet tube from draining into the res when the pump is off. It's not an issue really but your loop will burp out air each time you start or stop the system. 

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Just now, W-L said:

From what you have described having it on the bottom will prevent the inlet tube from draining into the res when the pump is off. It's not an issue really but your loop will burp out air each time you start or stop the system. 

If i keep the way i have it right now it will continue to burp out air? How would i fix that? I could keep the outlet to the pump the same and put inlet to the reservoir down there. Since it has that tube on it the water being put into the res will not immediately be going into the pump.

 

so what would you honestly suggest i do to make it better?

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5 minutes ago, W-L said:

From what you have described having it on the bottom will prevent the inlet tube from draining into the res when the pump is off. It's not an issue really but your loop will burp out air each time you start or stop the system. 

Im worried that the outlet to the pump might cause a cyclone effect, or pull air bubbles down with how the tube is. Is that possible? The inlet to the reservoir runs down the side of the res it does not splash inside from what i see. So im really wondering if i should change my drain port to be the bottom middle and my outlet to the pump be where my drain port is currently

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1 minute ago, ChrisZH said:

Im worried that the outlet to the pump might cause a cyclone effect, or pull air bubbles down with how the tube is. Is that possible? The inlet to the reservoir runs down the side of the res it does not splash inside from what i see. So im really wondering if i should change my drain port to be the bottom middle and my outlet to the pump be where my drain port is currently

Moving the inlet for the res down to the bottom will remedy it, and won't be an issue. 

 

Leaving currently isn't a problem but will just make it so every time it turns off it re-bleeds that short section of the inlet. 

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3 minutes ago, W-L said:

Moving the inlet for the res down to the bottom will remedy it, and won't be an issue. 

 

Leaving currently isn't a problem but will just make it so every time it turns off it re-bleeds that short section of the inlet. 

What would be the cause of that though?

 

So what do you think i should do? Add the inlet to the bottom and keep outlet and drain where it is?

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17 minutes ago, W-L said:

Moving the inlet for the res down to the bottom will remedy it, and won't be an issue. 

 

Leaving currently isn't a problem but will just make it so every time it turns off it re-bleeds that short section of the inlet. 

Do you think the best option is to move inlet to res to the bottom and leave outlet to pump and drain the way it is right now?

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2 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

Do you think the best option is to move inlet to res to the bottom and leave outlet to pump and drain the way it is right now?

As said the issue is because you have no straw or internal tube to keep back pressure to prevent the inlet pipe from currently draining. 

 

You can move the inlet to the bottom of the res if you want to prevent that from happening, but leaving it won't really harm it either. 

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8 minutes ago, W-L said:

As said the issue is because you have no straw or internal tube to keep back pressure to prevent the inlet pipe from currently draining. 

 

You can move the inlet to the bottom of the res if you want to prevent that from happening, but leaving it won't really harm it either. 

So do most people have the inlet on the bottom with the outlet?

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Just now, ChrisZH said:

So do most people have the inlet on the bottom with the outlet?

Not necessarily it just depends on the configuration, you can have inlet at the top of a res or at the bottom. Using an internal tube on the top will prevent the issues you are facing, however from the looks of things it would not be compatible with that res due to the side port coming in at 90 degrees. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

Not necessarily it just depends on the configuration, you can have inlet at the top of a res or at the bottom. Using an internal tube on the top will prevent the issues you are facing, however from the looks of things it would not be compatible with that res due to the side port coming in at 90 degrees. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm

Im not trying to have this kind of problem, so im probably just gonna drain the loop enough to rearrange the order and get it right this time. I just hope it looks good still

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16 hours ago, W-L said:

Not necessarily it just depends on the configuration, you can have inlet at the top of a res or at the bottom. Using an internal tube on the top will prevent the issues you are facing, however from the looks of things it would not be compatible with that res due to the side port coming in at 90 degrees. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm

So i changed it and saw air bubbles come into the res. Seems like its working but pump still sounds a little too loud. Starts off quiet but then it just vibrates a lot and sounds loud. I do not have any pwm going as i am just trying to get the loop together before i set the rest up. Any ideas?

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16 hours ago, W-L said:

Not necessarily it just depends on the configuration, you can have inlet at the top of a res or at the bottom. Using an internal tube on the top will prevent the issues you are facing, however from the looks of things it would not be compatible with that res due to the side port coming in at 90 degrees. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-140mm

Tried to cycle the power to the pump as well as Bykski support said there could be air bubbles in the pump but i do not see any bubbles now in that direction. Once i put the intake to the res on the bottom i have not seen any issues with air bubbles like that. Could it be just because its running at max speed from the molex power?

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