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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
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  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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Found 75 results

  1. so im thinking of building a pc soon and the case that i liked was the cooler master q500l but apon talking to some people and reviews i have heard that it is just not good for airflow and i wanna try look for another case but i reall like the smallness of the q500l with it only being as tall as the atx motherboard. so my question is does anyone have any recommendations on similar cases to that one but are not that one
  2. Here is my Build: Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X (NEW) Motherboard: B450-A PRO (NEW) Graphics Card: nVidia GTX 1060 6 GB (1 Year old) Case: RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB RAM: G.SKILL Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Desktop Memory Model F4-3000C16D-16GISB (NEW) Power Supply: CORSAIR TXM Series, TX750M, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Semi Modular Power Supply (1 year old) Cooler: Ryzen Stock Cooler (Wraith Prism) (NEW) Hard Drive: ST3320620AS SSD: PNY CS1311 240 GB Here is my problem, my computer shuts itself off. I ruled out thermal issues through looking at the temperatures through BIOS and other monitors and the fan is still spinning consistently. I took apart the PC in an attempt to try and fix the issue, because I had the idea that the motherboard was causing an electrical short with the plate on the back of the case. I have never overclocked any part of my system. And for a time it seemed as if my issue was solved by removing the back plate entirely from the computer case. Until these last few days when the computer has, once again, begun to shut itself down. Without being under load a significant load. There are no cable changes occurring, no vibrations occurring in the surrounding space, and things seem to be going fine, until the computer shuts itself down. In an effort to try and cause a BSOD to tell some kind of information and rule out certain possibilities, I disabled the automatic restart that occurs, but the shutoffs are still occurring without displaying any sort of information. There did not seem to be anything wrong with the way the motherboard was mounted on the case, and now that there is no back plate on the case where the USBs are plugged in, there should not be a short there. Another little tidbit of information that might lead to the conclusion of a power distribution failure is that VERY RARELY (twice in the last month) when I try and run certain games, the monitors will go black, as if they were no longer connected to the computer, and then they would come back on. Only once did the monitors not come back on, but while that was happening, the sound was still playing through my headphones. I was monitoring the temperatures in the bios when shutdowns were occurring, for the CPU and the GPU (The computer once or twice shut off while I was staring at the temperatures in the bios). I recently got into checking the reliability monitor tool, but it doesn't display any helpful information. When I look in the event viewer it doesn't have any recent hardware events at the shut off time, only the critical message when I reboot the pc saying that the shutoff that occurred at a given time was unexpected. Nothing is out of the ordinary there. If at all possible I would like to save doing a reinstall of windows as a last resort. The CPU, MB, and RAM were all new, but the case I have is not a new case, it is the same case that I have had for the past decade, so one idea is that the new MB is occasionally making contact with the case and that is causing the short. NOT SURE ABOUT THAT ONE. I did not reinstall the OS, the HDD and SSD are still the same as before. This particular type of issue is exclusive to since I upgraded the MB, Processor, ram. If it were a software issue causing my crashes, wouldnt that cause a BSOD? I believe that either there is still a short somewhere, or there has been irreparable damage done to the power supply (be it because of the shorting or because of another type of failure within that part. What seems to be the cause of the problem and how do you recommend I approach solving it?
  3. PSU Shorted, Possibly more Shorted PSU, possibly more Made a huge fuck up. Of all things PC related I know, I had no idea that Modular PSU cables are to only use cables from their manufacturer, which is where I made a mistake. As of now, I connected a “universal” third party PSU-SATA connector to power my Corsair command fan hub, and Corsair case RGB lighting. When turning the pc on, instantly heard a shorting noise come from the PSU and a smell of smoke. My questions is where to go from here to trouble shoot components. I have already bought another PSU, but was told that if I directly connect this up and try to boot I could end up shorting the new PSU if one of my other components are shorted. So, I don’t know where to go from here as I have a friends PC I could start in steering my GPU, RAM, HDD, And SSD in. But if one of those pieces are “fucked” could it possibly short components on his PC? and how would I check the motherboard without connecting it to the PSU “if” the motherboard may be shorted, and hence end up shorting the new PSU? Very confused on where to go from here, would highly appreciate some help. Here are the components UserBenchmarks: Game 98%, Desk 90%, Work 81% CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X - 88.9% GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 - 102.2% SSD: Apotop S3C 512GB - 96.8% HDD: WD Blue 1TB (2012) - 104.1% RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 3200 C16 2x16GB - 92.5% MBD: Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING PSU: CORSAIR RM750
  4. I built a PC in South Korea, in October 2017. This is a PCPartPicker link to all the specifications. I built it successfully and was able to play it from 2017 until late 2019, when me and my family had to move away to India. I should mention that South Korea uses 110 volts AC, and India uses 220. So when I plugged the PC in directly, the lights flickered on and it worked for two seconds, then pop! Everything shut off. The PC had killed the power to the whole house! We had to call an electrician to reset the power, and then we pretended like it had never happened. We bought a new power cord to replace the old one, and yesterday, attempted to turn it back on. We put the new power cord in through a surge protector and nothing happened - the PC didn't turn on. I believe the power supply was fried (even though it was rated from 100-240 V AC). Should I do a paperclip test or just pay to replace it? For info, my power supply is a SeaSonic G 550 W, link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm. Paperclip test or declare it DOA and get a new one? It wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world, but it would just be annoying.
  5. Hi, i have laptop acer aspire E5-476G, i bought this usb hub with a dc power adapter. I works find at first but then when i insert the dc power, my laptop turn off on its own. When i try to turn back on, it just shows a black screen but all my usb port work just fine (i charge my phone lol), theres also led light showing that my laptop is turn on and my fan is running too. Anyone know what is happening here? How to fix this problem?
  6. Hi guys so basically my pc that I just built won't turn on. When I press the power button the motherboard flashes red, one of the case fans slightly moves and the gpu flashes blue but then it just powers off completely. Any help? I attached a picture and I know my cables are a mess I just wanted to see that it worked before I managed them
  7. My laptops motherboard has a short on it somewhere, before i waste time visiting HP support center, i want to know if it is easy to fix problem? My motherboard has Amd fs1r2 socket and comes with on board radeon descrete graphics. Laptop model HP pavalion G6 2201 ax
  8. The reason I am posting it is because of very bad performance in opening simple apps. I have seen a 5-year old HDD PC with a worse specs perform better in that regard. Both my GPU and HDD are performing way below expectations. 1. Battlefield 1: The most I am worried about is it's performance in game has declined dramatically. Where I used to play Battlefield 1 with 1080p lowest settings with above 60fps and no stutters, now even with half the resolution scale and console commands to improve performance I am hovering at around 40fps which would had been playable but there are stutters always in the middle. I just can't play this game at all now. 2. Counter Strike: Earlier was never worried about the performance of the game because it always delivered. Never wanted to look at what fps I was running at because it was not needed. After a year however, it barely manages 70-80fps and drops below 40fps in between. It's the same stutter thing. 3. Battlefield Bad Company 2: A relatively light game for this laptop. Where I used to get above 100fps, now it struggles to maintain 60 and drops and freezes in game. What I have tried: 1) Refreshing the PC. 2) Deleting all PC files and then downloading and playing the game again. 3) Using Windows Debloat tool to remove all Windows Crap. 4) Stopping Nvidia Telemetry and all Nvidia extra crap, just keeping the basic ones. 5) Shortstroking. (However as mentioned below, I didn't see sweet spot, the results were just wierd): Was this test supposed to be run from another HDD with this HDD completely disabled and not in use? These results are from Windows installed in the drive and 621GB of the 930GB still free. Do these results look normal to you? 6) CPU seems to be throttled at 88% as shown by user benchmark. I tried using the trottling app and the GPU tuner for Nvidia to sort of overclock and remove this issue but the pc keeps throttling in every test I run. 7) Clearing temp, %temp% and prefetch regularly. ? Running Disk Defragment regularly. 9) Propping up the PC about 1.5 inches. This improved the performance initially but now it's the same. 10) Trying different Nvidia driver versions. Important things I noticed: 1) Constant disk usage which spikes in between and even the CPU usage. I am also attaching a normal use scenario of the pc: 2. I live in Delhi, the temperature here crosses 45 degrees now and maybe it was just the cold atmosphere back when I bought it in August that it just performed better but the result shouldn't be so pronounced. 3. Initially, the laptop used to shut down while moving it from bed to table. 4. Since I got Windows pre-installed I don't want to format the PC completely but if it comes to it, I might do it. 5. It's the only appliance plugged into the board and sometimes I charge my other peripherials from the PC like a small watch, a 2W speakers which are powered. 6. Everytime I completely format the PC, the gaming performance does improve but only for a while, after a bit it's all the same. I have also attached a CPU-Z output for the same. My userbenchmark result with Intel HD. (For some reason the HDD is shown as WD WD10SPZX-00HKTT0 1TB there) My userbenchmark result with Nvidia MX150. Also attached Nvidia Settings. AcerAspire615-51G_CPUZ_Report
  9. So, the problem is a quite interesting one. The thing is, a week ago, something happened to my computer out of nowhere. It was not turning on (the day before it worked just fine). Symptoms: when I press the power button, fans spin for like 1-2 secs, turn off, and then the same repeats. Kinda like a bootloop, but there is no post, no beeps, nothing. Okay I thought, lets diagnose this. Tried: unplugging ram sticks, booting without ram, with one ram stick, without gpu, without hard drives, still nothing, all the same. What came to my mind is that either psu or my motherboard were bust. Brought my mobo with cpu, ram and gpu to a friend, hooked up to his psu, motherboard booted up to uefi without a problem. Happy to have recognized the problem, I ordered a new psu Corsair CX550. And yesterday, I hooked up that new psu to my system, booted it, everything worked perfectly, I was so relieved having solved the problem. But now the worst part: I tried to boot the pc after night, and the symptoms are the same. It is not booting. Just like before. What I will do now is take my psu to a friend and try to boot his system with my new psu. If his system won't boot, I will know that the psu is fried. I will get it to warranty and if I get a new one I don't really want to hook it up my system again. Now my question would be, can a faulty mobo fry the psu? Maybe anyone have ever gotten anything same? PC specs: mobo: Asrock H87-M ram: 2x8 GB Crucial Ballistix gpu: Gigabyte GTX660 2GB OC psu: was (corsair cx600, worked fine for 5 years), now (corsair cx550) cpu: Intel i5-4570 SSD: Crucial MX250 HDD: Seagate 7200rpm 1TB
  10. Yesterday i was using PC and my parents turned it off using the switch on the PSU, and then after my PC case had a dent on the panel behind the Motherboard, since then ive had only a continuous blue LED light up when i turn on the PSU no case fans or anything, i then bought a new PSU and im having the same problem, any suggestions on what could have happened It didnt look like the metal from case actually touched the Motherboard itself but was touching another metal panel on the case
  11. LG: http://bit.ly/29tAdg7 Amazon.com: http://amzn.to/29zHc78Amazon International: http://geni.us/WRLmb LG was looking to showcase their projector, we put it to the test to see how it stands up as part of a mobile gaming setup.
  12. Hello, I have a weird problem with my new PC. PC is working normal when it turns on, but sometimes when I disconnect it from the power cord and plug it back again, there's only a blue light on the mobo and PC don't react to power button. However, unplugging the hdmi cable from the GPU and plugging it back in fixes the problem. I use hdmi-vga adapter for my old monitor (my monitor also behave weird, it will randomly stop working (no power at all) until I plug it into another power cord). There's no information about this blue light in MSI manual. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Specs: Mobo: MSI Mortar b150m CPU: i5-6500 Cooler: SilentiumPC Spartan Pro 3 GPU: Gainward GTX 1070 Dual Ram: HyperX DDR4 8GB Case: SilentiumPC Regnum RG1 PSU: Corsair CX550m
  13. Hi guys, I just might have thrown away my money... Now trying to kinda-hopefully save a lost cause. So... about a week back, i bought a MSI 1070 Gaming x with a "no signal" issue off ebay, thinking at the time, that what could possibly go wrong. As i live in the middle of nowhere i just got the card yesterday. It looked in perfect condition, no cosmetic damage or anything. So i plugged it in, turned the pc on, a blip of the leds and the psu over-current safety has been tripped. Not to go for too long, i figured out, that if the card has no pcie power, the pc boots but only on the igp (leds on the msi work). - Tried only the 8 pin = psu cut out - Tried only the 6 pin = pc boots, again only on igp (msi not recognized but that's kinda obvious) Took the card out, removed the backplate (did not touch the warranty label) and measured the resistance between separate pcie connector pins Measurements: pcie 6pin resistances between +12v and gnd pins are about 16kOhms pcie 8pin resistances are 0.32ohms (0.22 of that is the resistance of the multimeter leads) Ok, so by now i figured that the card is dead... Now before i try to disassemble it and bake it (as a last resort) are there any chances of an RMA if the previous owner did not send me his original invoice for the card? My pc specs: Asus maximus viii hero i7 6700k 16gb crucial ballistix sport H100i gtx Corsair ax860i (this is what probably saved my components from certain death)
  14. Intro and Software Ill make this review short and simple. Its a great printer which can produce very detailed results in only PLA with some fine tuning and work. The printer does not natively accept STL files. you need to convert it using Dremel's software which is a bit like corsair's line of RGB mice and keyboards. It just plain sucks. It defaults at 220c and 80mm/s which is too fast and hot for good prints. I use 45mm/s and 200c. It won't let you compile things that it deems will fail in printing like a cup or bowl. To bypass, you need to add supports to objects using other 3d software or their meshmixer from Autodesk. Hardware The design of the printer is very nice in an enclose space with a magnetic door and removable top cover. It does get slightly hot in the printer and I leave the door and top of for my prints to cool faster. I usually stand a fan facing in if I am printing things like this. It came out just fine and was surprisingly detailed. I scaled it down and it came out just fine. I am now printing a larger version. The head is capable of many great prints. Unboxing and Support It was packaged extremely well. No chance of damage during shipping and had foam everywhere in the printer. They did not tell me you need to lift the base up to get the bottom foam out. I was able to print a few tests like a pencil holder in 10 minutes of unboxing. The foam will shed everywhere when you take it out. You are able to have two spools in the printer at a time, but you need to buy an extra mount for it. I tried to print one but once I was done I did not have the screws and was too lazy to find the correct screws at home depot. The support line is fantastic. If you call ask for Adrian and he will help you out. I got filament stuck in it and they helped me get it out 2 hours after he was supposed to go home. They are very nice people and will work after hours to help. When I was fixing it I needed to keep the fan on the print head on and got my wrench in it and broke the blades. He sent one out the next day for me. Conclusion Being my first print I cant compare it to others but I can say it is a great printer for the price and I would recommend it. I know people who have 400$ China printers and they cant get anything decent off of them. I would say that this printer beats the DaVinci that my buddy owns. Its an all in one printer capable of great results with some knowledge of how pla works and what temps are good as well as knowing a bit of 3d modeling. Even free online stuff works too.
  15. So I built a new PC a couple of months ago and this had been an on and off problem. The PC would shut down unexpectedly and fail to reboot. The reboot process goes like this -
  16. Hello everybody I am trying to get as many people as possible to answer this extremely short survey for my math class. Why am I trying to get as many people as possible? Just this little challenge I gave myself So if anyone would be as nice and fill out the survey? I would really appreciate it Btw, why did I post it here? From my experiences so far? I think that the community here is awesome, but if this post is going against some regulations, please don't ban me Thanks y'all very much everybody David goo.gl/XEVBfG P.S. Please share with your friends also if possible, after all I do want to get the highest number possible
  17. Hey forum, I've been trying to use a homemade 7V molex adpater like this... ...to power the pump in my system. I double and tripple checked to make sure that I got the wiring right (it's not that complicated, anyways). However when I try to turn on my system, my PSU makes a clicking noise and stays off. Apparently this is what it does when there's a short in the system somewhere. I made 2 of these and they both cause the same issue. When I use them, the system won't start, as soon as I unplug them, everything works normally. Why is this not working for me? My PSU is a Corsair CS 650 M. I tried a 300W Be Quiet PSU, jumped it with a paperclip and attached the pump connected to the 7V adapter, same problem. I must be doing something wrong, I just don't know what.
  18. Just a fun poll, nothing too serious post your thought on the comments below. disclaimer: *forgive me if i missed any episodes of unboxing he already did using that suit* Ninja unboxer
  19. Me and @iain made this short film about the boy who got killed by a sandwich. Trying to make a sandwich just goes terribly for us... Enjoy and tell me what you think This video is from a channel called "The Tech Team" As the name might suggest we mostly do tech videos not sandwich videos. I mention it at the beginning of the video, please look at it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWDtEcN1obg Thanks -Blackbox -@iain
  20. Fellow builders, I tried to move my PC from one case to another today as a means of a visual upgrade. Once complete I tried booting the PC but allas, nothing! No fans, no bleeps, no POST...just dead silence. Note that the system was working in the old case just fine before. I started unplugging some things, replugging stuff, double and triple checked every cable...nothing. I then found the sticky in this forum that lets you "short" the PSU to see if the PSU starts and the fan starts (by wiring the green and a black cable with a paperclip). It does work when I do this and the fan speeds up. So does this automatically mean the mobo is at fault? Or are there other tests I can do to maybe rule out some more things? Please note I do not have any spare parts lying around to swap around for testing sadly. Any help is greatly appreciated! My rig: Intel i5-6400 Kingston Hyper Fury X 8GB RAM (single stick) DDR4 MSI Z170I Gaming PRO AC MSI GeForce GTX 960 4GB Corsair CS550M PSU Crucial BX100 120GB SSD
  21. Hi, Today I was trying out some cheap chinese led strips. I connected them to a molex connector on my psu, but I wasn't careful enough and the positive and the negative wires touched each other. The cables were sparkling and my computer shut itself down. After a couple minutes I turned it back on, and there wasn't any problem what so ever. Should I be worried? Thank you! Marci P.S.: Sorry for my bad english....
  22. Hey, i would like to know what would be the best way to do a Shunt resistor mod on my 980 ti hybrid(With Liquid metal on the die)? i know that doing it using liquid metal just giving a count down for WHEN the GPU is going to die so i would like to avoid that, i have heard people saying that it might be possible to just ad an other shunt resistor on top of the first one or just short whe shunt resistor with something else than liquid metal but i can't really find anywhere to get more info on How to do it... so i am asking it to you: What would be the Best way to power mod my 980 ti for an extended period of time(between 2-3 years)????
  23. "Memory initialization error. Invalid memory type or incompatible memory speed." i7-6800k Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400 1*8gb ASUS x99-A II EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 MSI R9 270x Hawk 2 month old pc, working completely fine til just now. PC stopped functioning, suddenly would not post. Solid yellow DIMM LED. Removed connected USB hardware, cleared CMOS, tried all DIMM slots. Wanted suggestions before I tried flashing bios, or bought a new stick. I mean, I was planning on getting another one anyways Thanks in advance
  24. Hello there, Tech Tippers. GPU we are talking about: EVGA GTX1080 Hybrid PSU: EVGA SuperNova 850G2 Mobo: ASUS Z170-Deluxe So a few hours ago as I was booting up my PC and logging on to Steam, something weird happened. My rig completely shut off, in a split-second with no errors, driver-failures, freezes or BSODs. I thought none of it and proceeded to reboot, but was only left with a slight "tick" coming from the PSU. I soon figured out that this is probably a short happening somewhere within the internals. I started troubleshooting, by running the PSU seperately, which worked, then proceeded to Clear CMOS and reset BIOS on the motherboard itself which didn't solve anything. I continued tinkering and disassembling my hardware, part for part and module for module, untill I had to remove the GPU. As soon as I removed the GPU and connected my monitor to the mobo, It posted! So I was left with either a damaged PCI-E socket, GPU or some kind of disturbance in the PSU itself or the cable linking PSU->GPU. I proceeded to switch the PCI-E Lane, cables etc. but none worked so I eventually installed a GPU from another rig and it booted off it. Same PCI-e lane & cables as the 1080. I've already sent an RMA' request in, since I believe it's truly dead. Zero extreme overclocking, zero slave-switch or stress testing and most sad part is that the GPU was only 7 months old. If the RMA' case works out, would there be anything to do, to assure it won't happen again? Cause this event was super-sketchy. Any response is much appreciated ~ TaroC
  25. Hello! I found out that my 24 pin cable for my Corsair AX860i is shorted. While using the selftest button on the unit with the 24 pin cable only plugged in on the PSU end it shorts out. The other circuits are okey though, it only happens with the 24 pin cable. Sadly it took down my motherboard with it and I want to know if anyone knows anything about warranties and what can/will/could be covered. The PSU has a 10 year warranty, I bought it about 4 years ago. Thanks for the answers in advance
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