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I've been troubleshooting for 3 weeks. I've asked for help on countless discord servers and a few subreddits. People gave me troubleshooting ideas and stuff but nothing really worked. I don't know why I haven't made a post on this forum yet. I have a 12700F with an ASRock Z790 Steel Legend WiFi board G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32GB DDR5-7200 (F5-7200J3445G16GX2-TZ5RS) An INNO3D 4070Ti Super Twin OC White and my old a Gainward 2080 Phoenix GS (tried them both but it didn't make a difference) I've been having issues and troubleshooting for so long, I don't even really remember how everything started... I hadn't changed anything to the hardware in a month and everything had been working perfectly before : After a reboot I had difficulties botting Windows 10. Then I noticed the VGA and BOOT QLEDs go on for 70 seconds with just a cursor on the screen, before actually starting to boot. So my windows did eventually boot but it took annoyingly long. Also, drivers were suddenly missing and programms weren't working correctly. I tried updating everything, which definitely helped but some doftwares were dtill not working properly. So the next day I backed up all my files and reinstalled Windows. After that, those 70s turned into just a few secs, which is great and everything else seemed to work fine. I installed all windows updates whick took a while and started to install drivers and softwares. On the next day I did all my stresstests and fan curve editing like usual and everything seemed great. Finally, the next day I was ready to play some games again, I installed AssettoCorsa, Content Manager and the drivers for my steering wheel. I rebooted the PC and it got stuck on that "Rebooting" screen. So I pressed the Reset button. From that point on a new issue appeared. I was just getting an infinitely long loading screen when trying to boot Windows. (The spinning circles) I then wanted to try booting my GFs windows installation on a separate SSD, so I went into the firmware settings and noticed, my GFs SSD was the only bootable drive and the windows installation I was just trying to play Assetto Corsa on, wasn't bootable anymore. That means I was seeing those spinning circles when trying to boot from her SSD and not mine, as mine wasn't bootable anymore. I then simply plugged in my USB stick I used a few days ago to install Windows aaand it had the exact same issue. Just spinning circles. I tried a CMOS reset and updating the BIOS and stuff but nothing changed. I tried Windows 11 23H2, but that only gave me a black screen. Went back to Windows 10 22H2, which gave me infinite spinning circles. I thought this might be a DRAM issue, so I ran Memtest86+ for 10.5 hours and it was still showing 0 errors. Then I tried Windows 10 21H2, to see if an older version would work and it did!! After those spinning circles it switched to a dark blue screen like expected, then it took like 15 minutes to actually load the installer, but it worked!! After reinstalling Windows again, it took extremely long to update everything as this is a pretty old version, but it worked. The next day I started installing drivers and software aaand, I got the same issue again. Tried booting the installer again aaand infinitely spinning circles. I tried reseating the CPU, that sometimes causes wonders, but that didn't do anything. Tried doing another CMOS reset as if that'd change anything. Tried using my old GPU, cause the motherboard still turns the VGA and BOOT LEDs on on start. But that didn't change anything either. Btw, the QLEDs turn off once it starts booting Windows. They only turn on before, actually trying to boot anything. And I guess that's where I'm at now. I'm guessing the Motherboard has an issue and no-one else seems to have a better idea. I've contacted ASRock about this, it said they would shortly answer... but it's been a week. Today I also contacted the seller to ask for an exchange. Do you have any ideas what could actually be the problem?

So, lately I've been wanting to create a redundancy in my backup (finally), which currently sits only in Google Drive/Photos. I've seen around my area (Northern Italy) that I can get an I7 7700, 16GB RAM, GTX1650/1070 for around 200€( around 240 freedom dollars). I want it mainly as a backup and maybe a Plex server (although I'm not sure I would use it, since I use mainly streaming services). I wish I could connect it to the internet, but where I live the internet is very limited (it's 100-150MB/s but it's over 4G and has a data cap of less than 1TB. I'll probably do Would that hardware be enough for my needs? Is TrueNAS the best option to set it up? Other considerations? I also do some photo/video editing, nothing crazy, would I be able to locally work in files inside the NAS if I use RAID 4?

Hey I'm at my wits end trying to fix my computer. I built it about 2 years ago and recently after trying to install a windows update and new drivers the whole system crashed and now whenever I try to start up the computer it freezes and crashes on the windows boot. I've hard reset it multiple times and occasionally it does boot into windows and i can login but 30s-1min later it crashes again and I have to hard reset. I've tried everything I can think of I think it might be a hardware problem but I can't deduce the exact component, anyone have any ideas? Here are my computer specs: OS: Windows 11 CPU: Ryzen 9 5900x Motherboard: Asus Creator ProArt B550 GPU: Zotac 3080ti RAM: 64gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 (16gb x4) PSU: Corsair RM750x SSD: Samsung 860 evo No Overclocking Here is a list of the things I've tried so far: I'm able to boot into the bios no problem and I tried changing different settings. I then tried updating the bios and finally replacing the cmos battery on the motherboard all to no avail. I took the the ssd and plugged it into a old desktop PC I still have and was able to boot into windows from the drive with no issue. I then proceeded to roll back the drivers and updates that I installed, I ran a system,drive check, and drive repair. But when moving it back over to my PC the boot crash issue persisted. Next I tried diagnosing the components starting with the ram, I ran MemTest 86 all the ram Passes. I tried removing all the ram and booting with only one stick (did that with each stick of ram) I tried removing the GPU and booting without it. I even tried plugging in my old evga 970 GPU with no luck. I think I've narrowed it down to one of the following components but I'm not sure. The lights on the GPU flash on startup and when the computer crashes the fans stop spinning so it could be the GPU but I think that just happens because it's no long running any process. The PSU fan spins on start up and I've tried moving the gpu power cable to a different 6pin port, but maybe there is a weird power draw somewhere causing the system to crash The CPU I read on a forum somewhere that boot loops and crashing on boot could be the sign of a dying CPU. But it's only a couple years old and shouldn't be dying already. I'm at a loss and need some expert advice. Someone please help.

Hey! I'm Andrew and I work as a technician at a repair shop, there has been an issue plaguing our store for a while and I'm hoping that coming here can help to solve our issue. A large part of the computers that come into the shop just need to be upgraded from an old and slow mechanical hard drive to an SSD. I have been trying to use Samsung 860 / 870 EVO SSDs for these upgrades and we use Sabrent's Acronis True Image tool with Sabrent's DS-UTC2 Docking station. I have tried to clone drives while they're plugged in through SATA but the outcome is no different. We have resorted to using Silicon Power SSDs since for some reason they work without issue every time. I don't like using the Silicon Power SSDs since they don't have a DRAM Cache but we haven't found any solution to this issue. Do you guys think this is a BIOS-related issue? Or maybe we should switch from Samsung to Crucial? Let me know what you guys think and if you need any more info!

Hello everyone, I am looking for some guidelines on how to perform hardware diagnostic test for a high-end PC. The issue i am having is with counter-strike 2. Its constantly crashing ingame. Like every 2-3 Minutes. The Steam-Support looked at the crash-log of the game and could not identify anything wrong with cs2 and they advised me that its related to my pc hardware. Something might be broken there. I will attache the Response from Steam-Support as a screesnhot. This problem seems to be only with cs 2, every other game i play like Grid Legends, Forza Horizon 5, Cyberpunk 2077, FarCry 6 don't have any random mid-game crashes. How can i perform Hardware diagnostic test from home. If the possibility is limited, just let me know and i will look for a local IT support in my city. Specs: + i9-14900K + ASUS GeForce RTX 4080 (Noctua OC Edition 16GB) + Motherboard ASUS ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO + Ram Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5 6000MHz CL30 Dual Channel Kit + Cooler Procesor Noctua NH-D15 + PSU Seasonic PRIME PX-1000, 80 PLUS® Platinum, 1000W + SSD Western Digital Black SN850X, PCle M.2, NVMe, 2TB + Case Fractal Meshify 2 Compact + Monitor LED ASUS Gaming ROG Swift PG27AQDM 27 inch QHD OLED 0.03 ms 240 Hz HDR FreeSync Premium & G-Sync Compatible

I have an HP Pavilion dv7-1245dx that I recently installed a new battery for. I booted up the laptop and it (I think?) failed POST. The Caps Lock and Num Lock keys flash four times and after a while it powers off. No display, not even when hooking it up to an external monitor. I looked through the guts of it and made sure everything was hooked up and connected properly. Nothing seemed wrong, but I did find a missing HDD. The Pavilion comes with two, and after looking through the other one, I can confirm that the hard drive I still have is the boot drive. Is there something I'm missing?

I tried to update my sound drivers when PC ran in to a problem. Blue screen was just in loop, then i decided to clean my pc and reinstall windows 10 when another problem appeared. I tried changing those value in the photos and still nothing. I can only pull up bios settings and command promt.

Hi all! Over the last couple months I've been plagued with the windows frowny face blue screen... I see it in my nightmares at this point. Couple months ago, out of nowhere my PC crashed. Rebooted, was able to play for about a day and then the crashing happened more frequently until the point I couldn't even boot windows without it immediately crashing. Wasn't able to find any corrupt files, decided to do a fresh windows install, but nothing helped. After about a week of troubleshooting, a friend had suggest it might be a hardware issue. I decided to use this as an opportunity to upgrade, I got a new mobo and ram. Installed both without a hitch, fired the pc up and installed a fresh windows again, still ran into the same issue. After this, figured it could only be the cpu... went ahead and upgraded that as well. For about 3-4 weeks this seemed to have solved the issue, was able to play with no problem, pc was running smooth and fast. Out of nowhere it began to overheat and the fans wouldn't push at 100%, then it began to crash again, and yet again it progressively got worse. Fast forward to now, I've removed my gpu and the crashing has seemed to have stopped. A couple of times after the initial boot or a restart I would get the windows blue frowny face screen but after windows would boot no problem. Obviously haven't tried to play any games since I'm running off of the cpu's internal graphics, just have updated all my drivers and windows so it's not like the computer has been under any load. I'm not incredibly well versed in troubleshooting but at this point it seems kind of likely that my gpu was the culprit all along, but after having bought over a grand worth of hardware and the problem persisting I'm not confident that spending even more money is the solution either. If anyone has any feedback it would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, I've encountered this issue and to be honest, I've run out of ideas and other hardware to test with. My system is running Linux (Ubuntu Studio to be exact) but I don't know if this is a problem with the software as I get the same info when booting to a live USB. The Problem: I have installed 4 x 4GB DDR3 1600 9-9-9-24 (matching) sticks. They recognise in the UEFI/BIOS they are detected when running the "sudo lshw | grep -A 8 bank" command in the terminal (output below) however the total memory detected by the OS (or live USB OS) is only 7.5GB. The problem persists with all amounts of RAM above 8GB, including 2x8GB and 4x8GB all at 1600Mhz but lowering speeds or timing makes no difference. In addition, the 8GB sticks are 1.5v and the 4GB sticks are 1.65v so no mixing of capacities has been done. OS - Linux x86-84 (Ubuntu Studio) Age of system - Yeah right, old but kept in good condition Age of OS installation - 3 Days but happened pre install on Live USB CPU - AMD FX 9590 (with watercooler and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut TIM Video Card - AMD HD 7790 1GB MotherBoard - Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 Revision 3 Power Supply - Antec 750w High Current Gamer System Manufacturer - None, Custom Build Below are some commands to illustrate my issue >sudo lshw | grep -A 8 bank *-bank:0 description: DIMM DDR3 Synchronous Unbuffered (Unregistered) 667 MHz (1.5 ns) product: 9905403-489.A vendor: Kingston physical id: 0 serial: 570DDE08 slot: Node0_Dimm0 size: 4GiB width: 64 bits -- *-bank:1 description: DIMM DDR3 Synchronous Unbuffered (Unregistered) 667 MHz (1.5 ns) product: 9905403-489.A vendor: Kingston physical id: 1 serial: 590DE408 slot: Node0_Dimm1 size: 4GiB width: 64 bits -- *-bank:2 description: DIMM DDR3 Synchronous Unbuffered (Unregistered) 667 MHz (1.5 ns) product: 9905403-489.A vendor: Kingston physical id: 2 serial: 570DE708 slot: Node0_Dimm2 size: 4GiB width: 64 bits -- *-bank:3 description: DIMM DDR3 Synchronous Unbuffered (Unregistered) 667 MHz (1.5 ns) product: 9905403-489.A vendor: Kingston physical id: 3 serial: 480D1213 slot: Node0_Dimm3 size: 4GiB width: 64 bits >uname -a Linux CJ-Server 6.5.0-26-lowlatency #26.1-Ubuntu SMP PREEMPT_DYNAMIC Tue Mar 12 10:29:17 UTC 2024 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux >cat /proc/meminfo | grep -i memtotal MemTotal: 7908244 kB

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my pc which happened 2 months ago all of a sudden. my pc randomly shutdown in some games like Tekken 8, valorant or lethal compagny. doesn’t happen in cyberpunk, bf2042 or other intensive game. benchmarks and stress tests don’t make PC crash. two different crashes occuring, first one is pc shutting down/turn off completly. Second one is pc freezing and audio is still going but in loop. crash and freeze don’t happen in idle. temps are ok, usage are ok. send my pc to a shop to get a diagnostic : they told me it was GPU driver related (false, because I had uninstalled with DDU several times and even with older driver) What i tried : fully reset my pc, installed windows 10 again —> changed nothing installed windows 11 —> changed nothing changed my ram —> changed nothing the shop I sent my pc told me they changed the cpu and they still had the problem so now, I don’t know what to do anymore. Could you guys tell me what it can be coming from ? MOBO ? PSU ? my pc specs : asus rog strix b550-a gaming plus corsair rm850x 80 gold plus rx 6800 xt sapphire nitro+ Corsair 4x8go vengeance pro 3600MHz ryzen 7 5800x all disk are healthy like I said temp are always below 70° and crashes can happen even with a 30% usage or 70% usage, it’s random thanks in advance, you guys are my last help.. I don’t know how I will be able to fix my pc otherwise..

Budget (including currency): Not specyfied budget Country: Poland Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details none Hello everyone. I'm a huge fan of the channel, forum, and community. That's my first post here. I'm planning to build my first home server on a budget. At the moment I'm running an old laptop ( previously RP3b+ ) with home assistant. At the house, I have old DVR recorder with 4 analog cameras. I plan to integrate as much as possible into that server. I've read about VM and Docker but until ill try to set this up by myself, I'm not sure how it works. Im not sure whatb system will be best and simple to use? Plan is to use this server for: Home Assistant VPN NAS CCTV ( not sure if is better/easier/cheaper to use a dedicated IP recorder or integrate that on the server??) Maybe PLEX My plan is to go with old used hardware. Probably an old workstation. My question is how much horsepower do I need? what matters the most? I know about the importance of RAM and storage but what is the gold middle ground for cpu? What core count will be optimal for this remembering about potential new ideas for integrations? Is there a way to assume how much CPU each system needs? And I also care about idle power consumption. Thanks,

Please read the entire post. About a year ago I've built a system with the following parts: - Intel Core i5-11400 CPU; - MSI B560M-A PRO mobo; - 24GB Crucial 2400MHz RAM, later maxed out to 64GB DDR4 2666MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM (this is important); - 500GB Kingston Fury Renegade M.2 PCIe Gen4x4 SSD; - AMD Radeon RX 5500 XT 8GB GDDR6 Graphics Card; - Corsair CS850M 850W Semi-Modular 850W 80 Plus Gold PSU (reused from my previous setup). Since the beginning I have noticed the motherboard behaved strangely, even when brand new, during the first few days of use, it would plain refuse to POST... This would fix itself with reseating everything... If I enabled the ERP ready power feature in the UEFI, the computer would take 3 to 5 seconds to power on after I pressed the power button, sometimes it would take longer. So I never enabled that option again. But the weirdest behavior started after I swapped the 24GB RAM for the Vengeance LPX 64GB kit. At first the motherboard only recognized one stick, had to switch them around to get the 64GB accessible. Everything then was fine, even the XMP profile got enabled automatically. But I noticed the mobo would take longer than usual to POST with the new RAM. Nothing major happened until last month... when I shut the display down and went to do something else...later I came back, GPU fans were on full blast and there was no video output to the monitor. I hard restarted the PC... the motherboard for some reason reset the RAM frequency from the rated 2666MHz to just 2133MHz. I then tried enabling XMP again twice, on both attempts the mobo reset the speed back to 2133MHz and gave me a textual warning that the RAM overclock was not stable. (This was, in fact , the first sign something was seriously wrong). But by the 3rd time it worked fine. I also noticed that sometimes on Linux, after a reboot, there would be no display output. Pressing Ctrl Alt Del always fixed it. There were no new major problems or crashes until the night of March 8. After running absolutely fine for the entirety of the day, while I was watching a YT video, the browser tab with the video literally crashed. "Gah. Your tab just crashed." -- At this point, the machine was minutes away from going to PC Heaven -- I didn't know that, and just shrugged the error away as a bug. Though I was still a bit worried because this was my first time seeing that message. 5 minutes later... the entire OS froze, a very loud static noise was heard on the speakers, and the audio from the video started repeating over and over like a broken record. The PC was completely unresponsive, I force restarted it as usual... but this time, it no longer came back. No POST, no USB, no nothing. The mobo will now get stuck on a boot loop alternating for 3 times between the red CPU debug LED and the orange DRAM one. Until it gives up trying to start and stops with the solid orange DRAM LED. My effectively brand new general use and workstation PC is now dead after a little more than 1 year. Is it financially viable to try and fix it or I might as well use the opportunity to upgrade to a newer platform (AM5 or LGA 1700 with DDR5) and also a brand spanking new higher quality PSU? I might even consider jumping to a prebuilt system like the Dell XPS 8960 or the Precision 3660 as I love Dell's reliability and quality.

My friend's pc started having issues with booting after it was shutdown unexpectedly several times due to power outage. When I press the power button it keeps turning on and off on and off all the time, until it boots after 30 mins or so. I tried to remove the ram and it always boots up when I do so. I updated the bios, cleared the CMOS, nothing worked I don't know if its a ram issue, PSU issue, motherboard issue... The setup ( Asrock b250 pro4, i5 7400, 1060 3GB ASUS, 1 stick 16gb hyperx fury 2666, 1TB WD HDD 7200)

Hi y'all, I've been having an issue trying to put together a new rig over the past two months. Whenever I try to turn it on, what seems like OCP kicks in immediately and nothing boots. I have to unplug and replug the power cable for me to be able to replicate the issue again, otherwise nothing happens when I power on. I have tried in the case, out of the case, with only the 24-pin connected, with and without RAM, and no matter what, I get the same issue. I've replaced the motherboard and the CPU and these changes have not helped. I've also updated the BIOS to the latest non-beta version (7D73v16). The only time I've been able to get the motherboard to power on properly is with only the 24-pin connected, no CPU in socket, no RAM, and the CPU latch open. When I close the CPU latch, OCP kicks in again. I have tested the PSU with a tester tool and on another system and it functions normally on both of those occasions. I am so out of ideas because I've tested just about everything that could be the culprit here, and have issued multiple replacements. Any advice would be appreciated, and big thanks to anyone reading this now. Please let me know if there's any additional info I need to provide. Specs: Ryzen 7 7800X3D (Ryzen 9 7900X tested, same result) MSI MAG CORELIQUID C240 MSI MPG B650I EDGE WIFI G.Skill Flare X5 2x32GB DDR5-6000MT/s CL30 MSI VENTUS 3X RTX 3080Ti 12GB Acer Predator GM7000 4TB Cooler Master SFX 1100W Phanteks Evolv Shift XT IMG_6113.mov

Summary According to research firm Omdia, the Apple Vision Pro's bill of materials is $1,542. The most expensive part is the 1.25-inch Sony Semiconductor display, which enhances the virtual experience with high pixel density and lifelike colors. Apple pays approximately $228 for each Micro OLED display used in their Vision Pro headset. The second most expensive part in the Vision Pro is the main processor, the Apple M2 chip. Quotes My thoughts The high price of some components doesn't surprise me since there's some very high-end hardware in this product. It would be interesting to know what Apple's profit margin for the Vision Pro is, after things like R&D becomes part of the calculation. Sources https://www.cnbc.com/2024/02/24/apples-vision-pro-why-its-so-expensive.html

Hello everyone, So recently I've built a new pc from scratch, like a few weeks ago, everything was just amazing, and now these past few days the PC has been making some weird sounds from inside, my guess would be that it's coming from the motherboard, but can't tell where exactly. I have not picked it apart yet, will be doing that tomorrow, so I wanted to ask for suggestions here, maybe there is an easy fix, or no fix at all? Please let me know, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. PC : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cnD428 IMG_2748.mov

Hello, I have issue with my computer. Each restart that I do, it gets stuck in boot loop. However it keeps restarting and sometimes after 5 reboots it boots up correctly, sometimes it needs to reboot for like 30 minutes until it boots up into system. Whenever system boots up, it does not have any stability issues and can run for multiple days od weeks with no issue. However this does not seem to be software issue because it also happens when booting from USB (Ubuntu Live etc.) . I have did multiple diagnostic steps however I am not able to resolve it yet. multiple Windows repair commands - never found any issue BIOS reset and update, multiple configuration changes - no change remove memory stick and use only one, try other one, run memtest over night - no change, no issue found update SSD firmware, check health through Samsung tool - no issue found disconect all unnecessary peripherals change GPU to different - no change last step today was to replace motherboard, which was my best tip.However its still same or even worse, because after few restarts it get stuck and dont even restart itself. I have recorded it - https://youtu.be/3_ERSvUwwG0?si=Nb_f7C5osWGbJwN- Anyone have idea what could be causing this? Last thing to check is CPU, power supply and SSD, but I will be expecting different behaviour in these cases. Asrock B550 Pro4 (have replaced it with Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE with no luck) AMD Ryzen 5 5600 Kingston 3200mhz ddr4 2x16GB Samsung EVO 860 m.2 nvme SSD

So the last 2 years I got this pc specs: Case:: CoolerMaster MasterBox MB311L ARGB CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X CPU-cooler: Cylon 4F RAM-: Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB SL16GB (3200MHz) and corsair vengeance pro rgb 16 gb ram 3200mhz, so 2 different ram groups SSD: WD Blue SN550 1TB Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus B450M GPU: Gigabite 4070 OC 12 GB Psu: Aerocool Aero 80+ Bronze 650W The problem I am facing is that I am not getting the fps I should get. Since this week I replaced 3060 ti for the 4070 and still my fps sucks for the performance it should give. I mostly play Fortnite competitive and I never had this problem before. With low settings and overclocking with ryzen master, afterburner, quick cpu I am getting around 200-300 fps... Meanwhile the same builds get around 300-400 and I get 200-240 in fights... Please help me... I do not know what is wrong.... xmp is already enabled for the ram sticks... pls help

Prepare to hear the strangest computer issue ever. This is a custom-built PC (see specs below). I have been dealing with this issue for a couple of years now. It started after I updated from Windows 10 to Windows 11 (about a year after being built). Randomly, my computer will hard freeze. Whatever is on the screen will freeze in place until the computer is hard powered off. There is no blue screen. When booting the computer back up no dump file is created, despite how much I have messed with settings trying to get it to do so. There are no errors or even warnings in the event viewer for at least the 10 minutes leading up to the freeze. There is no pattern as to when it happens, I have had it happen while using the computer as well as when the computer is idle. Sometimes it will happen a few hours after the PC has been booted, and other times it can go several days before freezing. Now comes the really strange part, and this has been consistent after all of the troubleshooting I have done already (listed below), if I have a Minecraft server running on the computer it will not freeze. I have tested with other programs running on the computer that actively use memory, network, etc. still freezes. If I am running server.jar though, it can go a couple of months and not freeze, at which point I restart the computer myself, because uptime. I want to think that its a hardware issue except for the fact that it is fine while running a Minecraft server... What I have tried: -Backup and restore via image-based backups. -Fresh install Windows 10 -Fresh install Windows 11 -Reseat RAM -Reseat CPU -Reseat GPU -Replace Hard drive (tried sata ssd and nvme.) -reset bios -update bios -update graphics drivers -different keyboard -different monitors -new add-on nic (since removed to use with another computer) Computer Specs: OS: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Type: 64-bit MB: MEG X570 UNIFY (MS-7C35) CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900x GPU: NVIDIA MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Gaming X Trio RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 PSU: CORSAIR - RMx Series 1000W ATX12V 2.4/EPS12V 2.92 80 Plus Gold Drive 1 (boot drive): WD Black SN850X 1TB Drive 2 (Data drive): Samsung 860 EVO 2TB Drive 3 (Virtual Memory/swapfile): NVMe SK Hynix 512GB TLDR: The computer freezes randomly with no trace afterward of what happened, except when running a Minecraft server(I have no freaking idea).

Hi! I have a 15.6 HP Envy x360 laptop and the hinge broke recently. Got a replacement in today and went to repair it, however after literal hours trying to get the screen off without breaking it I'm at a stand still. I don't know if I messed up already but there seems no way forward without using force or physically cutting or breaking something. Both sides of my screen is stuck about 1 inch from the top of the screen. I finally got it separated enough to see whats stuck. There is a metal piece that is still attached to the shell for most of the screen and then it's attached to the screen for the top inch. It looks like its attached to a piece of plastic specifically that was clipped to the metal piece. At the very top it seems almost melded into the plastic piece. I can't find any pictures or videos online that's showing this so if anyone has any experience with this laptop or any like this I'd greatly appreciate it.

I was playing Lethal Company with one friend and the non host would often disconnect. This error happened less when I was hosting. Is this more likely to be a problem with my internet or their pc? (assume my internet is equally as bad as their pc)

Its time we had a discussion... So many people are buying extremely high-end components that are simply unnecessary and overkill. I figured I would create a guide to help people decide what hardware is best for their use case. How many frames per second do I need? What settings should I run, what resolution should I play at? Lets talk about all these things today... FPS: Lets start by talking about refresh rate and frames per second (FPS). Linus PROVED a while back in a video called "Does High FPS Make you a Better Gamer" that for the VAST MAJORITY of gamers, frame rates beyond 144 FPS/Hz simply make no difference whatsoever. At 144Hz, the smoothness and responsiveness is so fast that your keyboard and mouse themselves attribute the vast majority of the input lag and the human body simply cannot detect lag caused by FPS at these extremely high frame rates. Even professional E-Sports gamers stated in the video that they feel there is basically NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER between 144 and 240 Frame Rates. These professional gamers tend to go for extremely high frame rates anyways to reduce latency in the game's processing, but this guide is aimed at the average gamer, not a professional. These response times on the levels of a few thousandths of a second and the average gamer will NEVER detect them. In the Linus Video, they explored the differences between 60FPS/Hz, 144 FPS/Hz, and 240 FPS/Hz. What they did NOT talk about is at what point do we hit diminishing returns? At what point before 144 FPS is that magical number that feels incredibly smooth and responsive? Allow me to explain... 60 FPS may seem smooth to watch and indeed it is, but 60 FPS isn't quite fast enough for fast-paced gaming. This is because of how much time is needed for your machine to produce the next frame. The amount of time needed to produce each frame at 60 FPS is long enough to where if you move your mouse back and forth quickly, you will notice slight lag, it just won't feel all that responsive, and this is why the ideal gaming frame rate is well above 60 FPS. So how far do we need to go? Well it is somewhat subjective but there are some general "rules of thumb" that can help you decide. Even just a bit above 60 FPS at 75 FPS, things will begin to feel fairly responsive, but if you want the best performance before diminishing returns, there are still gains to be had. At 90 FPS, things will look and feel fantastic, with incredible response. At 90 FPS you will probably be quite satisfied with your experience, but we should reach a bit higher, and here is why... When your machine experiences a huge load in a demanding area of a game, the FPS will drop for a single instant here and there, this is what we know in benchmarking as 1% lows. The problem with 90 FPS gaming is that these 1% lows can still drop you into the 60's of FPS. And when that happens, you will certainly feel it. This is why 90 FPS gaming isn't quite enough to be considered a pretty-much perfect gaming experience. What you should aim for is 100+ average FPS. Once you cross the triple-digit threshold, your gaming experience will be extremely satisfying at all times, because your 1% lows will stay at or above 75-80 FPS. These 1% lows will be so smooth that you probably won't have even noticed that they happened, and so 100+FPS is ideal target for the best value gaming. However, as newer games come out, and your hardware ages, performance will drop a bit over time. But to counter this, most reviews on PC gaming content focus on performance results at Ultra Settings. So as your PC ages, you should be able to drop your settings from Ultra to High in order to keep about the same frame rates in upcoming games for a few years. Keep this in mind for later... GAME SETTINGS: So what about settings and resolution? Lets get settings out of the way - aim for High settings. High settings are a very satisfying experience and the visuals will be stunning. Very High/Ultra settings demand a lot more power for not a whole lot more beauty and so in reality, Ultra settings are unnecessary. But if you aim too low and end up with low or medium settings, you will definitely notice the difference between these settings and High settings. RESOLUTION: Finally - resolution. Resolution is completely subjective. Some people enjoy 1080p, others enjoy 4K. But, there are diminishing returns with graphical fidelity, so lets outline those now: 1080p is great for very small monitors. It looks about as sharp as it can get on 20" and smaller screens, and still looks pretty good up to 30" gaming monitors, but most people can see the difference between 1080p and 1440p, so that choice is yours. 1440p is actually the ideal computer monitor resolution in most cases. It looks insanely sharp on pretty much any standard-sized monitor and most people cannot tell the difference between 1440p and 4K. I personally play at 1440p ultrawide for that extra side-to-side vision and its an incredible experience (3440x1440p) 4K is actually pretty useless in more situations than you might think. Research and scientific studies have shown that the human eye with perfect 20-20 vision actually CANNOT see the difference between 1440p and 4K on any screen up to 50" with your face just 18" away from the screen. Linus even did a video a while back called "4K Gaming is Dumb" that goes over why its pretty much completely unnecessary. Choosing Hardware Based on this Information: PC Hardware reviews pretty much always focus on performance delivered at Ultra gaming settings. Since Ultra settings are unnecessary, you can use the performance gap between High and Ultra settings as your performance overhead for upcoming games in the future. And so... If you want a gaming experience so good that you wouldn't be able to tell if you upgraded further, and you want to use a standard sized monitor like most PC gamers do, then you want to purchase hardware that is shown to deliver an average of at LEAST 100 FPS at Ultra Settings for your chosen resolution, and 1440p is the recommended resolution for standard-sized PC monitors. Now the hardware you choose will depend on if you want standard 2560x1440p resolution or ultra-wide 3440x1440p or whatever other form of 1440p you might want, but if you do your research and keep these rules of thumb in mind, you will end up with an incredible gaming machine without over-spending. Of course everyone will have their opinions, Im sure plenty of people will say I am wrong. But think about it before commenting. When was the last time you played a game at 90-100 FPS and you thought to yourself "This is a terrible experience, I need to upgrade my PC because this is just un-playable".

Last week my desktop with Z170Pro Gaming mobo shut down and since then I've been in a loop of press f1 > bios > f10 > {computer shuts and restarts by itself} > anti-surge screen. Before this I didn't bother to notice how much volt this rail was getting (because who goes to the BIOS daily?). But after the surge I asked around and friends suggested getting a new PSU. Setup the new PSU today. But the volt still is 8v max. What could be the issue?

I have a Predator Helios 300 (2020) that has an issue whereby when i have my charger plugged in, the battery and power light indicator blinking infinitely in the middle of gaming mostly and at random times but goes on when it triggers but when i replug the charger in the charging port, everything goes back to normal for a minute or two before it goes back to blinking. FYI, my laptop's main board was shortcircuited like a week ago, and the technician came and replace the main board and now im left with an issue which is this. I need some help with this issue and hopefully someone can clarify the issue to me or better even provide a fix for it. The temporary fix that i did was i disconnected the battery from the main board, so now everythings fine, i hope i could get a clear answer on whats the issue is whether its the battery or the charger or whatever Thanks everyone for replying! battery isuue.mp4

Like it's saying in the title I am getting the error "The computer restarted unexpectedly or an unexpected error occurred" when trying to install windows 10. I don't know how to fix it and I really would appreciate help. I had windows 10 installed before but I wanted to reinstall it because it gave me a bluescreen all the time after starting up the PC. The PC worked fine on the same day but someone took it off the power while it was downloading a game. So after trying to fix the bluescreen I secure erased the ssd with windows on, had some problems installing windows again on that ssd so I bought a new ssd and ram because it might had been the ram causing the blue screens in the first place. I got to the point to install windows but after it restarted automatically it got that error message and I couldn't fix it. I've tried changing a value from 1 to 3 in system.exe which is located in "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Setup\Status\ChildCompletion I hope someone can help me with my problem. I would appreciate the help alot. Specs: MSI B650 carbon wifi Ryzen 7 7800X3D Radeon RX 7900XTX Corsair Rm1000e Powersupply Samsung 990 pro 2tb Samsung 980 pro 1tb (windows drive)