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I am running DD-WRT, an i am using NordVpn in the openVPN option. The VPN is up and running put for some reason the port forwarding is not working for my Plex Server for remote access. Have anyone experience this issue or have any idea of a work around?
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I recently came across a Cisco e1000 V2 and wanted to convert it into a switch using DD-WRT. After confirming it uses this firmware, dd-wrt.v24-44715, I downloaded the "factory flash" one and flashed the router. I then followed this guides advanced instructions but if I change the local IP address, gateway, local DNS, uncheck Use DNSMasq for DNS, check Assign WAN Port to Switch, or disable DHPC Server I lose the ability to connect to the router and configure anything. I'm connected to my network via Wi-Fi and I have the E1000 plugged directly into my PC for configuring it. Clearly I'm doing something incorrectly, if I had to guess from the IT course I'm taking changing the DHCP related settings causes the router to not be able to assign my PC an IP address therefore I cant connect to it and I have to manually configure that somehow, but I have 0 idea how to do that or how to solve my other issues. I'm semi advanced with computers and can provide additional information if needed to help diagnose the issue. UPDATE: After leaving it be after a config change for like 10 minutes it seems I can reconnect and the changes are applied, is that a normal wait time? UPDATE 2: after discovering that I applied all the needed settings in the basic setup page and waited, but it failed to let me connect after quite some time. I unplugged it and plugged it back in which caused it to revert the changes I had made and I can connect again.
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I am finally going to get fibers! This calls for an update of my network equipment. What would be ideal: DD-WRT/OpenWRT/Tomato support, or a good control panel - I am interested in QoS, some nice stats Wi-Fi range - current Tenda AC11 is doing okay, the signal has to go a single storey up and down, but I can just add an access point if it's necessary ability to handle 20-30 clients, about 10 connections from things that actually do something. I plan to connect 2 PCs using RJ-45, that's the reason why I'm writing here, I wasn't able to find a 2.5 Gbit/s compatible router yet. Everything stops at 1gbit and while that's the offered Internet speed, both PCs are 2.5 capable and we do transfer files between them. Did any of you look into this subject? The limit would be around $400 for a device or two combined, cables and other stuff I can buy and install separately.
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- 2.5gb/s
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I updated DIR-600 firmware to DD-WRT to be able to use it as a repeater. After I applied changes, it logged out, and the power light turned into a solid orange permanently. Tried to recover it by the reset button, no use. It seems the router is dead. I've tried many reset button methods to solve this. Not even a change on it has happened. I download DD-WRT from its official site. I installed "dlink-dir600b-factory-webflash.bin". Not even the "Recovery Mode" worked. Don't know what else to do. Have any ideas, please?
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I'm looking to buy a Linksys WRT 3200ACM to replace the modem/router we're currently renting from COX. Also planning to pair it with a Linksys CM3016 cable modem. Just looking for a few second opinions on all of it. 1. How's the routers default GUI? Should I install DD-WRT on the router? I've never had a chance to play around with it myself before but I've heard good things about it. I also can't stand when i can't adjust certain settings like on my current rented modem (almost everything is hidden or locked down). 2. Are these high gain antennas worth it for me? I live in a medium sized 1 floor apartment, the router will be towards one end of it. I know these will impact vertical performance but i don't need that, since I only live on 1 floor. From what I know they work well, but my apartment isn't exactly huge (little over 800sqft) so I'm not sure the $80 for 4 of them is really worth my while. Not to mention they're comically large. 3. On the subject of the modem. I have the Cox preferred 100 package (100mb/s advertised, actually getting around 130mb/s). Will I notice a difference and should I bother with getting the higher tier CM3024 or should I just stick with the CM3016? 4. Any other suggestions? I'm open to anything really. Thanks! -Ken
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so i have this Linksys wrt 1200ac and i decided to flash dd-wrt beta 3 on it. long story short i flashed it and ever since i flashed it my wifi goes down sometimes or it says the wrong password mostly on the 2.4ghz so i have to reset it every time and since dd-wrt doesn't make firmware at least twice a year to update i decided to go with open wrt but the problem that i have is when i choose the OpenWRT img or even the stock img it reboots back to dd-wrt so i researched a little bit i found that there is a special firmware someone made just for this but the link is dead so now any suggestions on either going back to the stock firmware then flashing OpenWRT or just on the dd-wrt or any other way would be extremely helpful. http://desipro.de/ddwrt/K3-AC-MVEBU/ddwrt-linksys-wrt1200ac.bin
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I recently switched firmwares to DD-WRT on my router. Could a more experienced networking vet advise me on how I should be setting up both bands on the same SSID? Also, if I plan on making a separate guest network, do I need to set up each network on a designated band or can I have both share both bands? Sorry for being such a n00b. Thank you!
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So i flashed my Netgear AC1900 R7000 (v1) with DD-WRT, no bricking so that's good. Then I wanted to setup a client mode on the DD-WRT device itself so that I can have it wirelessly connect to the main AP for internet and be on a separate subnet. AP: 192.168.0.1-254 DD-WRT: 192.168.1.1-254 Only problem is that I followed the instructions on how to put it into client mode and have it connect to the AP with the right SSID and password, and on my LAN (RJ-45 ports on DD-WRT device) I get no internet connection. What did I do wrong in this case?
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So, I flashed my Netgear R7000 with DD-WRT and it worked just fine. After rebooting it, it began boot looping and I would have to hold the reset button for more than a minute in order to restore to factory defaults. Or rather to be able to try again. So, I re-flashed it again. And it does the same thing, it works just fine until I restart it and it boot loops itself again. Important: I KNOW that the firmware is the correct firmware, I KNOW it's the correct hardware, I KNOW it's the correct model number. What am I doing wrong here? Is it my fault or is it the fault of Netgear or DD-WRT (developers)?
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Hi guys, Does anyone know how to set up a free wifi login portal such as those used in malls, hotels, coffee shops using free software or open firmware? Please help, I want to create such portal to direct customers to my website. I'm pretty new to the open source firmware, so please be patient and guild me step by step. Thanks.
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I am looking to separate my Iot devices from my main network. I am doing this at a private residence with no business needs. I am also trying to keep every as inexpensive as possible. I came across the linked video and was wondering if this was actually a wise way to separate IoT devices? Current set-up: I am on a Fiber network with only one LAN connection. My current router is a Linksys WRT3200ACM so the firmware is almost useless. Initial Solution I tried using DD-WRT but my wireless switch for the garage door opener would not connect. It has no problem connecting with the standard Linksys firmware. All my other IoT devices linked without issue to DD-WRT. Trying DD-WRT so I could set up multiple wireless vlan's and separate these devices but since I can't use the firmware I am SOL. My potential solution after watching this video Add a second, cheap router, to my network as described in the video and move all devices to their own non-broadcast SSID. I would do this by connecting the cheap routers WAN port to a free port my my WRT3200ACM Issues I'm concerned about Is this truly a secure way to setup IoT? Will I have issues accessing my printer if it's on the IoT network or should I leave it on my main network? Will my IoT devices truly be isolated from my major devices such as my home workstation? I feel I'm low risk of being hacked but hate having these cheep Chinese devices on the same network as my workstation with lots of person data. YouTube "Using A Second Router For IoT Devices"
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- iot
- two router
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Hello, I am trying to get my DD-WRT router at my college to connect to my personal pfSense OpenVPN server at home. The server on pfSense is setup and fully functional, connecting with my computer or phone works just fine, however, DD-wrt refuses to connect with zero logs to go off of. The server is configured as remote access which I think should work. I don't know if I'm missing anything in my client config or if there is an incompatibility between DD-wrt and my server. I'm still pretty new to VPN configurations and what each little option means. I have the client ovpn file contents appended below. How exactly am I supposed to input this information into DD-WRT? #-- Config Auto Generated By pfSense for Viscosity --# #viscosity startonopen false #viscosity dhcp true #viscosity dnssupport true #viscosity name Remote Access dev tun persist-tun persist-key cipher AES-256-CBC ncp-ciphers AES-256-GCM:AES-128-GCM auth SHA512 tls-client client resolv-retry infinite remote <URL> 53 tcp-client verify-x509-name "<NAME>" name auth-user-pass remote-cert-tls server <ca> -----BEGIN CERTIFICATE----- <CA> -----END CERTIFICATE----- </ca> <cert> -----BEGIN CERTIFICATE----- <CERTIFICATE> -----END CERTIFICATE----- </cert> <key> -----BEGIN PRIVATE KEY----- <PRIVATE KEY> -----END PRIVATE KEY----- </key> <tls-auth> # # 2048 bit OpenVPN static key # -----BEGIN OpenVPN Static key V1----- <STATIC KEY> -----END OpenVPN Static key V1----- </tls-auth> key-direction 1
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I have this router: https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT3200ACM/ and I would like to control the internet speed per-device and the stock software does not allow me to do that, and I would also like to see how to put Nord VPN as it cheaper than PIA and some reviewers say it offers a more "advance" GUI for how much stress a given server is receiving at the time for example. I read a little about the dd-wrt thing and tomato stuff but I don't know which one would be better for me and how to install them.
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I recently purchased an 'Archer C9' wireless router from TP-Link, and from the installation guide I figured out that I can install an router-friendly operating system called DD-WRT. But the guide warned that 'you may lost your warranty if you install it', so that's basically what I'm worried about. Is there a way that I can reinstall the originally included router OS in case of the customer service? And furthermore, I searched through the DD-WRT database and found out that the 'beta(v3.0)' version only supports my router. I'm also worried that the lack of performance of my router since it has 1.0GHz dual-core processor, 128MB of RAM, and only 16MB of ROM. What would be the best idea?
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Hi everybody, im searching for a new access point since i bricked my TP Link TL-WR841N by mistake. My budget is around 50-100€ (germany). If it is really neccessary to spend more i will think about it. I do want to run the access point with the Private Internet Access VPN. So some form of openvpn compatibility (open-wrt, dd-wrt, ...) is required. And realisticly im not connecting more than 2-4 devices at the same time. I already found the family of GL.iNet GL-AR... mobile access points which come preinstalled with dd-wrt and 16mb of flash memory. But they are using a Qualcomm Atheros QCA9531 - 1 core x 650 Mhz processor and i read that the VPN performance is mediocre. Although they are quite useful little things to play with. https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750-300Mbps-pre-installed-Included/dp/B07712LKJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527500110&sr=8-1&keywords=gl-ar750 Thanks for your help
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- opensource
- access point
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Hey all, At work(A Small Business Internet Cafe) we used a Buffalo AirStation Extreme AC1750DHP, Recently we overhauled our network hardware that's why I say "Used". We would like to repurpose the AirStation into a hotspot where one would need to accept terms/conditions, or pay to use our WiFi. The router we flashed DD-WRT onto when we first got it cause all of us (staff) are big fans of the opensource firmware. So I did a hard reset on it so I would be starting from scratch with it. Using DD-WRT built in Hotspot function, I am trying to enable HotSpotSystem (Cause we like them the best) for this task. I've followed the offical instructions from HotSpotSystem, including their troubleshooting and I still can't get it to work quite right. Can anyone give me a for dummies step by step on how to o it step by step from the very begginning on a reset dd-wrt router? SideNote: If I'm posting this in the wrong forum, my apologies, and please direct me to the proper forum
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Hey all, At work(A Small Business Internet Cafe) we used a Buffalo AirStation Extreme AC1750DHP, Recently we overhauled our network hardware that's why I say "Used". We would like to repurpose the AirStation into a hotspot where one would need to accept terms/conditions, or pay to use our WiFi. The router we flashed DD-WRT onto when we first got it cause all of us (staff) are big fans of the opensource firmware. So I did a hard reset on it so I would be starting from scratch with it. Using DD-WRT built in Hotspot function, I am trying to enable HotSpotSystem (Cause we like them the best) for this task. I've followed the offical instructions from HotSpotSystem, including their troubleshooting and I still can't get it to work quite right. Can anyone give me a for dummies step by step on how to o it step by step from the very begginning on a reset dd-wrt router? SideNote: If I'm posting this in the wrong forum, my apologies, and please direct me to the proper forum
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Ok when I build be computer I did not get a wifi card for it because it was intended to remain in the same room as the router and is connected by and Ethernet cable, how ever I would like to move my computer up into my room. I understand it is easy to buy a wifi pcie card and install it but my family recently got a new router, and has nothing to do with the old one. I want to turn this router into a wifi repeater because 1. The wifi is terrible on the side of my house without the router, and 2. My house is 25 years old and doesn't have Ethernet running through the walls and I would like to have my wifiless computer in my room, but don't want to buy a wifi card, adapter, or use power line... I guess I should be clearer on the router I want to repurpose. It's it an Actiontec MI424-WR revision D, (The new router is revision I) I know that DD-WRT is a thing that supports this router however I couldn't get it installed. The only tutorial is on the wiki and didn't work for me, as well as not being detailed enough. If anyone knows how to A: use the router as repeater without installing DD-WRT, B: Install DD-WRT on my router, a video would be greatly appreciated... I prefer the tutorial to be on Windows 10, however I can load up a Ubuntu live cd is need to. thank you for reading all of this and I hope it made sense.
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I am using a router that i flashed dd-wrt onto to make a wireless adapter for my gaming desktop. I am having issues getting it to work despite having tried multiple tutorials. I am thinking the issue is that my internet uses a default gateway in the 10.0.0.1 range. i need help getting this to work.
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- dd-wrt
- router issues
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So I'm hosting a lan party hopefully around the first week in January 2016; if I can get the network issue solved. Right now my problem is this 16 Port TP-link switch (TL-SF1016D 10/100mbps switch) tends to crash and by that I mean it simply kills the main line from the router to the switch yet keeps everyone that's directly connected to it on. I believe this is due to us overloading the 100MB line to the router. SO to fix this I was thinking about assigning lan ports 3&4 to link aggregation and give the switch 2 dedicated ports for more bandwidth throughput. In theory this should fix my problem yes? Now I know it's called many things other than Link Aggregation; but basically I'm bonding 2 ethernet cables to the networking switch to potentially allow double the throughput. When this crash happens I can still access the internet if I plug direct into the router that the switch is plugged into so I know it's not the router that's being overloaded. + The router supports gig link speeds just is limited to 100MB cuss the switch tops out at that. My network is kinda weird you could say. Incase you need to know the network setup - (Modem) | (Asus router running Merlin firmware) Port 1- Windows XP computer Port 2 | --- Goes directly to the garage connects to a netgear router running DD-wrt (firmware) And then thier is a 16 port networking switch connected to that router/accesspoint 2. Port3 |---- Goes directly to the back side of the house connecting to a 5 Port networking switch for consoles and a windows vista PC. There's also a netgear router connected to that switch for access point. Port 4 |-----------The last port on the main router connects directly to my windows 10 PC. The asus router has a gig connection link to the modem and my PC, The dd-wrt router also has a gig connection link to the main asus router. Everything else only supports 100MB link speed connections. All the connections use Cat6 cable.
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Never mind. This isn't the DD-WRT forum. :rolleyes:
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- dd-wrt
- bridging connection
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Unofficial Challenge : Make a simple script that runs on startup in DD-WRT v24-sp2 build 21061. Reward : Assassins Creed Unity Game Code !!! (primary goals) GTA 5 ( will need to buy a copy so it might take time :unsure: ) (Secondary satisfied) You will be credited in every source I post this which will be helpful for a lot of people( but you can decide if I should post this elsewhere) Primary Goals : The script has to login to the ISP automagically on router start up. (Primary Goal) It should not affect other dd-wrt settings. Secondary Goal : It may check every say 10 minutes for login status and if logged out then it must proceed to login. (without auto reboot every time of-course ) Conditions : First one to complete the primary challenge gets the ACU code. First one to complete the secondary challenge gets the GTA code.(after a max of 2 weeks :unsure: ) If a user completes both challenges at a time he gets both the codes. Linus Tech Tips or the LTT Forum has nothing to do with this challenge. You can ask anyone to do it wherever it may be but the first post on this forum will be the one eligible for the codes. If you do not know dd-wrt thingy create a .bat file that executes after 10 minutes of PC startup. ( you are eligible only if no one submits a way to do it in dd-wrt) Must be EASY TO DO : I am a noob in coding and programming If you need additional data ask me and I ll provide it for sure but please be specific with step by step procedures. Must mention the areas where I should type the credentials with a clear procedure or snapshot highlighting it. Snapshot of logged in page : http://prntscr.com/70n3nx Snapshot of logged in page : http://prntscr.com/70n2lr References of previous attempts( very useful for knowing what you are dealing with ) : Please credit them if their ways helped you http://www.brijin.net/login-to-tikona/ http://log.amitshah.net/2010/09/auto-login-to-web-proxies-using-networkmanager/ Source Code: ( login page ) Primary URL: 1.254.254.254 (redirects to a 5 second countdown after redirecting to Secondary URL) Secondary URL : https://login.tikona.in/userportal/login.do?requesturi=http%3A%2F%2F1.254.254.254%2F&act=null After login : URL : https://login.tikona.in/userportal/newlogin.do?phone=0
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Is it possible to use third party router firmware with a virgin super hub? I've read quite a few places which point to buying a septate router and turning the superhub into modem mode in order to use the 3rd party firmware with the third part router. Can I not use the super hub with router firmware such as dd-wrt?
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So Time Warner Cable upgraded the speed packages in my area for no additional cost (horray FCC complaint); top tier users get 340Mb/s | 20Mb/s (my package) for $108.00 USD /mo; Anyway when I confirmed the upgrade and moved to my new house, I found I was stuck at 100Mb/s regardless of what device or where I was located at... turns out the Motorola SB6141 (8x4 modem which is rated for 344-ish Mb/s) isn't compatible with the service that TWC offers, instead you need a 16x4 modem to get the job done. So I went out and bought the Motorola/Arris SB6183, which is a 16x4 modem and gets the job well done; I see my full speed while connected directly to the modem: Here's the speed test: (Side Note: I notice this test doesn't reflect my entire download as 311 is not 340, but I had miscellaneous devices connected that can account for the missing bandwidth) However, when I introduce my router; which is the ASUS RT-AC66U (running DD-WRT firmware) to the mix, I find my download speed is capped at about 94-98Mb/s, while the download remains untouched. This has me thinking that (even though I'm jacked into a Gigabit port) the port is downgrading itself to a 100Mb/s link; even though my computer (R5E board) is connected to the Gigabit port on the router via Cat6 cable. Here's the speed test for that deal: I've played around with the VLan settings page on the router firmware, which is all set to Auto-Negotiation with Gigabit and Full-Duplex modes grayed out. If I uncheck Auto-Negotiation, the port fails to identify any device connected to that port, and the configuration page won't load. This forces me to reflash the router (which I'm getting quite tired of now) and reset the settings. QoS is disabled, UPnP is Enabled, DHCP Static Routing Tables are in-place for the n devices connected; I've boosted the router's CPU to the max overclock that the firmware allows (IIRC it's 662Mhz). I've attempted to configure the computer to run at only a 1Gb/s link-speed, but I'm still getting no result, I'm still capped at 100Mb/s on the download no matter which way I turn. What am I doing wrong or overlooking? Help would be greatly appreciated. - Thank you. V/r PiGHamM3R
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What brand is the best for router flashing or to be more precise what is the best router to be flashed? We tried a cheap cheap ASUS RT-10+ D1 and it can be flashed. However it was too weak, the wifi wasn't antiquate, and other than that it doesn't have enough memory for it. Making me wonder, If any one in the linustechtips folks had any experience in VPNing a router. PLEASE TELL me what router you used or please suggest one that can provide me and my family all the things we need.