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I recently realized I was running out of space in my drives and was wondering if I could compress the drive using the Windows. The drives in question are for gaming and I was wondering if they compression has any significant effect on the drives read/write performance. Also, does anybody know why drives fill up so much faster than you think? One of my 500GB drives' steam folder is around 300GB, even though my drive says it's capacity is nearly full. I don't have anything else significant on that drive to take up an extra 200GB. Could they be undeleted game updates that have been bloating the drive for the past several years? Thanks.
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Gday all, I've used Windows network shares for years and honestly it's like dragging yourself over hot coals but there's no real alternative for an average joe like me. Basically, every once in a while something would break, sometimes due to Windows update and sometimes for no discernible reason. The outcome is always the same; many hours/days of faffing about on google, cursing, tearing down security measures, and it's all working again albeit with a lower level of security somewhere or another. So the time now has come when all the brute force measures have been exhausted and I have no more firewalls to burn down, no more passwords to remove or permissions to give. Two days ago my sister complained that her W10 laptop could no longer connect to the W7 home server. So after the usual fighting with Windows and trying out a dozen internet suggestions and registry edits, it was working again. Not only that, my Mac could now also connect to the home server (it stopped working months ago and I gave up trying to make it work). In summary, the conclusion was something about disabling NetBIOS and IPv6 all around and also a bunch of registry edits as usual. HOWEVER, it seems that the flipside of that is my main W7 PC now can't connect to home server. They're both gigabit wired to a router, but are also directly tethered to each other by a 10gbit SFP cable (from linus' tutorial a couple years back). This setup has worked flawlessly and never given me any problems with either speed or connectivity, even stuff like remote desktop. But no longer. I feel like I've read every post on technet twice already. I could try to recall and list everything I've tried but not before the heat death of the universe. Between work and rest and what little play I can get the last thing I want to do is screw around with Microsoft's nonsense networking. I'd just about do anything to have working, simple file sharing. Pinch a cat, slap an old lady, set Ballmer's house on fire, whatever. ---- So for the first time in my life I'd like to sit down and try a surgical approach with the hopefully kind people here at LTT. This has never worked in the past because all the places I posted (Stackexchange, Technet, Reddit, 7Forums etc) have either responded by completely ignoring noob like me, throwing out a bunch of incomprehensible jargon and code, providing pseudo-polite tech support that's irrelevant at best, or just inexplicable downvoting. I know my way around a cmd window, so tell me what to do, what you need to know, what diagnostics and reports to produce, hell I'll even let you teamviewer in here to find out what's going on. Please help. Home server: Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Gigabyte Z67, i7-3570K, 16GB DDR3, GTX1060, whole bunch of hard drives and Mellanox Connect-X 2 Workstation: Windows 7 Ultimate x64, MSI Z77, i7-3770K, 24GB DDR3, GTX1070, not as many hard drives but also has a Mellanox Connect-X 2 Router: Netgear R6400, cat5e cables all around Thanks in advance guys.
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I recently downgraded my Windows 10 to Windows 10 1703, due to the fact that I recently added a WiFi card because the Ethernet wall adapted I had broke down and I didn't want a cable to stretch across my desk. It was also like $130. So I got an Asus PCE-AC56 WiFi Card. It wasn't working until I downgraded. But once I downgraded, 2 out of my 3 drives weren't being detected. I checked out the BIOS, there they were. I checked Device Manager, there they were. I also checked Drive Management, but they weren't there. I watched many YouTube videos on how to fix it. I also been on dozens of websites, claiming to know they fixed the problem, but to no effect did it work. Maybe because they weren't the exact same problems? I do not know.Specs:CPU: Ryzen 1700Mobo: B350 PC MATE MSIRAM: 16gb Dual Channel Trident Z DDR4 2666Graphics: GTX 1070ti mini ZotacDrives: ADATA 240GB SSD SU700 (Windows 10 installed) Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD (not detected in Drive Management) Seagate Barracuda 4TB 7200RPM Hard Drive (not detected in Drive Management) If anyone knows how to deal with this, it would be very appreciated if you could help.Thank you.
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My pc crashed wile playing fortnite. After that it brought me to my bios where is said that I had no drives. So after a little reaserch i thought my pc's drive was corrupted. Since i had nothing importent on it i tried to reinstall windows. So after i wiped the drives through windows setup software I tried to install it and it jas been stuck on this sceen for around 10-15 minutes
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Greetings fellow forumers. Before recently, I have been stuck running everything off of an unbearably slow HDD. I have had a 128Gb SSD plugged in and formatted for some time now, but haven't taken the time to get it "set up" whatever that may mean. Until now that is. The same SSD was just on sale for 40% off, so of course, I had to buy one two. I now have 3 128Gb SSDs I plan to put in RAID, but 384Gb still isn't enough storage for me, (I store a fair amount of games, mods, and server files on my PC.) I was wondering if there is a way to have my files automatically moved from the faster drive to the slower drive dependent upon what I used last, but after about an hour of searching I haven't been able to find anything other than Intel RST, which doesn't seem terrible, but I'm not sure if it fits my use case. If anyone has experience with this sort of problem, or a recommendation, please let me know. TL;DR: I have 3 128Gb SSDs, along with a 1Tb HDD, what would be my best plan of action? Many thanks for any help I may receive.
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I didn't quite know where to post my problems, since it includes multiple issues and parts while booting, so I hope it's fine here. If not please let me know! First and foremost my specs: OEM: Windows 10 64bit OEM Key CPU: i7 8700k Mobo: Asus Maximus X Hero RAM: 32GB 3200mhz GPU: EVGA 2080 FTW3 PSU: RM750x Storage: 1x Samsung 850 250gb (OS and Programs) 2x Samsung 860 500gb and 1x Samsung 970 500gb (I have my online and favourite games on the 860's, and move others on the 970) 1x 2tb WD Black and 1x 6tb WD Black (I have a lot of games on steam and etc, so I download and install them on the 6tb, to then later move em to the 970. I do this because of my slow internet speed and some games load just fine) The Issues are: 1. Whenever I boot up my PC, it needs 2 cycles/posts at least I had looked up if it is my PSU or Mainboard and both seem to have some threads relating to this issue (but it seems to be clearly a issue with the board in general), clearing CMOS multiple times didn't change that it doesn't really bother me that much since I'm aware it's a general issue and it doesnt take a lot of time, but maybe somebody managed to fix it somehow or has an suggestion 2. The loading screen after the bios prompts takes around 20~40 seconds, if not more I was wondering if it's clearly only because of the amount of connected drives, also whether changing the 6TB HDD for a big SSD and also removing the 2tb HDD might improve it, since I will finally have fiber in a few months which would make my 6tb redundant. I also had clean installed the OS and the Programs on my 970 for testing purposes a few months ago, which made no difference at all 3. Rarely, really rarely I get no picture while my PC is booting and afterwards I have to restart it once and it's fine again. Just wanna know if it is normal. a Sidenote: I have my PC and everything else (Monitors and such) connected to a power strip, which is then connected to a powerline adapter. I always turn of the power strip, when my PC isn't needed. Just in case if there might be something related. I would be really grateful for some help, since these issues are bothering me since I have my PC, but I just now have finally have the time to take things apart if needed and such. Also if there are any questions please feel free to ask ofc!
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So I'm curious if anyone has any opinions on hybrid drives? I personally had 1 in a laptop for about 6 months and it bricked on me so i just replaced it with a full SSD, so needless to say I'm not a fan but like, whats the target customer for these things? Pros and cons? Positive and negative personal experiences? Best of both worlds or do they exist simply because they can?
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OS: W10 64 Pro BIOS: 5.80 Specs: X370 Taichi, 970 Evo, EVGA 1080 FTW, Corsair Vengeance LP 3000, R5 3600, EVGA G2 650. Problem: Switching from my 1600 to my 3600 has resulted in my POST time going from ~2 seconds to ~12 seconds. Everything loads very quickly after that without issue. My MSI B350 board POSTs in ~4 seconds with the 1600 in it. I'm wondering if this is normal for Zen 2 or if something is going wonky with my board. I've tried messing with some settings and clearing the CMOS. My tertiary problem is that my rig does not detect any drives USB. I know the drive and powered USB adapter are good as they work on my secondary rig, however they are not seen by my main rig. Device manger shows nothing abnormal either. Any help with either of these problems would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi, is there any way to make a StoreMI array with more than 2 drives? if not, is there any software that can do this? I have a variety of drives of many different speeds and sizes (1 HDD, a bunch of SATA SSDs and 2 NVME SSDs), and would like to virtually combine them. Raid will not work because of the sizes. Any ideas or help will be appreciated. Below you will find a picture of my current drive setup in disk manager. Disk 0 is my most recent NVME SSD (just installed a few minutes ago,) so that is why it is unallocated.
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Is this accurate? Is this something i should be worried about ? Im not that worried about the 64% drive, thats my mac OS. But the windows 90% drive is just couple of months old.... Is this accurate what HWinfo is showing?
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So, I have a MacBook Air 2014, and seeing as I have... 120gb storage left, I want to partition the drive, and install windows 10 to the second partition, but it won’t let me, it says windows cannot be installed to a gtp disk or something, I forgot... but whatever it says... it doesn’t matter, I can’t erase the boot drive, so I am stuck... help? Anyone?
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I recently got a 250GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD. I installed windows on it and installed games on it and it seemed to work fine, except when I loaded one of my games (Destiny 2), there was some stuttering. I restarted my pc and updated drivers and no luck. The framerate doesn't seem to dip when it happens. I checked my drive speed using Samsung's Magician software and using CrystalDiskMark. Both applications reported read speed of around 550MB/s and a write speed of around 320MB/s. I looked on Amazon to compare my score to other people's score and most of them reported a read speed of around 550MB/s, but their write speeds were around 520MB/s. I turned on Samsung's "rapid mode" on and reported a read speed of around 3,880MB/s and a write speed of around 3,740MB/s.
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- ssd
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i have a hp 2570p with core i7 with four cores in a small factor of just 12.5 inches. i have SSD of 120 gb and i like to upgrade but i am not sure if i can put 3 drives. 2 drives that are 2.5 inches. First will be 2.5 inch drive where my SSD is now. second will be added by removing cd/dvd drive and i am not sure if i can put SSD above the wireless card. it looks like this if i can put SSD in there it will be 120GB or maximum 240GB and i like to know. 1. Is it possible and if not what cant be done. 2. How much will this cost me if i sell my SSD of 120GB. 3. how much of an impact does it have on battery (now i am getting about 3 hours of battery life of moderate usage(have battery that is 50kWh but it's degrated so it is acc 40kWh)) P.S. i want each drive to have 1 terabyte of collected storage of 2 terabyte and SSD of 120GB or 240GB
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Is there any way on recovering Drivers that is accidentally deleted from doing a partition on a drive?
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How to fix the error mentioned up there, but without loosing data. I have put all my files on a partition. And i cannot loose them. I have no other option then to ask, ive seen on the internet people set their bios on legacy only instead of uefi but that doesnt seem to do anything for me. Will send pics below.
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I have Windows installed in a 120GB SSD and initially wanted to keep it like that. But there are some (older) programs where I can't change the installation path to my other HDD's. Is there any way to lock my Windows SSD for programs, but not for Windows updates and drivers and the necessary stuff?
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So I have a problem... I just built a new pc and pretty much had the system reserved partition on my 3TB hard drive (I know, what an idiot. Should've only had the 250gb SSD in before anything else). I've done so many things in an attempt to move the system reserved partition to my 250gb SSD. I eventually went to this website and in the replies, someone was able to use EasyBCD to have their C: drive get the System status. I've attached an image of what my drives look like now. I've unplugged the other drives to test if Windows would boot from the 250gb SSD and it works. But now when I look at it, I don't have a system reserved partition in Disk 0. It looks like I'm able to delete the System Reserved volume from Disk 1(which I couldn't before using EasyBCD), but I haven't yet since I don't know if it's safe for me to do so. Another reason I've been doing this is that I'm trying to change the drive from MBR to GPT. Basically, I'm trying to get System Reserved to have its own partition in Disk 0 and to convert the 3TB drive to GPT. Any ideas on where I should go from here?
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- windows 10
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I've got 2x240gb of M.2 NVME drives, should I run them in RAID? If so, what kind of RAID should I run them in (RAID 0, RAID 1 etc. etc.)? System specs below, thanks! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor $249.99 @ Walmart CPU Cooler EVGA - CLC 280 113.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $99.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard MSI - MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $193.34 @ B&H Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory $104.99 @ Newegg Storage ADATA - XPG SX8200 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $82.99 @ Amazon Storage ADATA - XPG SX8200 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $82.99 @ Amazon Storage Seagate - FireCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive $71.59 @ Amazon Video Card EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB FTW2 Gaming iCX Video Card $469.89 @ OutletPC Case Lian-Li - PC-O11DW ATX Full Tower Case $142.97 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $84.99 @ Newegg Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $124.79 @ OutletPC Other Optix MPG27C $379.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2158.41 Mail-in rebates -$70.00 Total $2088.41 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-26 16:30 EST-0500
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Hello everyone! I am looking for a SATA 3 to USB C (Thunderbolt 3) adapter (or an external-drive box) for my SSD. When I look for such an item, everything that comes out has USB C connector but is USB 3.1. I want to connect it to my 15" XPS (9560). Do you know of any products I might be interested in? Thanks in advance!
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I recently purchased an external hard drive docking station, formatted a few Western Digital(WD's) and all went well started storing files immediately. After a few days my pc didn't recognize the drive. It was there in Disk Management(DM) but the drive letter disappeared. Had to reassign a new letter & all good, files were there & back to normal. When I tried to use my original drive letter 'G' it would not let me I had to choose a new one, I selected 'B', said 'G' was in use but doesn't show up in DM. I have 2 other WD's in my case that work fine and never had an issue with drive letters disappearing. Any thoughts as to why this happened?
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Hello everyone, I recently built a computer and today... Something strange happened. This is the timeline to the best of my ability: I was browsing youtube, suddenly I got a strange pop up that said something like "restart windows now to fix a driver problem" The window itself only had 2 buttons to interact with: restart now, and restart later. I clicked restart now, and right after the windows loading wheel appears below the republic of gamers logo, it began to autorepair my E drive. It took around 30 minutes, then it rebooted, to the same exact process, took another 30 minutes, and now sometimes when it boots itll get stuck at "Starting Automatic Repair" but nothing happens, or the windows loading wheel appears, but nothing else occurs. System specs: Im not sure which is my bios specc, excuse my ignorance but I read this: Bios: uefi bios version 0412 x64 Mobo: rog strix x570f gaming Graphics nvidia rtx 2060 super Processor: amd ryzen 7 3700x 8 core 16gb ram stick, 2400mhz 4 drives: 1tb hdd 2 240 old school ssds 1 256 m.2 ssd 750W PSU Troubleshooting ive done: Since it tried to repair the e drive I assumed maybe something happened to it. My main drive with the OS is the C drive, so I unplugged everything, took off the E drive, tried to boot, and nothing. I then did the same aalternatig each drive being off 1 at a time. I also tried to boot with everything but the keyboard disconnected. Lastly, I was discouraged and ready to reformat everything, so I prepared a media installation tool on a usb drive, but even if I tell bios to boot that one first... Nothing happens. I disabled secure boot, enabled legacy mode and then even forced a boot on the usb drive (that was recognized by the BIOS, same as all the other drives), but still nothing. Please let me know if theres any more info.I can provide. I would describe myself as a capable techy, can follow directions well enough, but my knowledge is very superficial.
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Hello everyone, I know this probably sounds stupid but I rushed to upgrade my 4TB raid setup to 6 TB, and just swapped them without properly removing them. Now I have a bunch of shortcuts to a drive that no longer exists, and can't be removed via the delete option. (says drive cannot be located) How do I fix this dumb mistake I made?
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I've got an absolutely bizarre problem I've never seen before. Since switching my computer off 2 hours ago, I've switched it back on to find a collection of random BD-ROM Drives appearing, so many that I've lost access to most of my USB ports. Has anyone seen anything like this before?
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Hello all I have recently just bought a new drive for my PC to store all of my media backup but I do not want anyone else to be able to access that drive other than me. As I am not the only one using the computer I would just like to restrict drives to specific users (ie non admin users). I have tried going to properties-security-security permissions and tried to change the permissions of non administrators to no access but because even as an administrator I still fall under the standard user group policy for some reason and when I set the permission it also denies me access to the drive. I have taken ownership of the drive and still no luck. I wonder if any of you fine people would know how to get round this. thank you in advance Sean
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- security
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