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I was building my first PC and broke a few of my cpu pins and when I looked at my cpu socket I wasn't sure if it was damaged or not I already ordered a new cpu and I just wanted to know if I would need to replace my motherboard as well

Running at Ryzen 5 2600 with Tomohawk max. The CPU debug led always lights up when I boot the pc after a long time (few hours). The system won't post and the leds on the back of the motherboard stay lit. But if I just turn off/on the power switch at the wall and start the pc, it works like normal. I also added the Rx5700xt back into the system a month ago. It was causing similar problems many months back so I moved to an old nvidia gpu and experienced no issues. But when I got the 5700xt back, had no issues for the most part, until this boot issue now. Been using the 5700xt again for about a month. So monsoons just arrived and I don't know if that has to do with anything. Is something about to break?

I just bought a used motherboard (gygabite a320m-s2h) BUT my processor is still on travel! And I want to test the motherboard but I have no processor! I have ram, graphics card, power supply and all except by the processor. I did plug the speaker (the motherboard speaker) the power supply and all (except by the processor of course) And when I turn the on botton nothing happens! No light no beeps nothing! Is that normal? Is the motherboard death? When I used to do it with old motherboards it was common to give me beeps. I am so stared of being scammed Can some one with more experience tell me if that is normal? And if you have a motherboard like mine ir the same can you please tell me if yours gives light or beeps when you test it without the processor is unplugged?

Since its a Zen3 chip with just more cache should it not work with AM4?

I am thinking of getting a r 5600x but have no clue which mobo to get, I've looked into it a tiny bit and I'm looking at getting the Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE V2 AM4 Motherboard, but I am wondering if there are any better options around its price point. It doesn't need to have Wi-Fi I would like a fair few USB 3.0 ports and 2.5 gig ethernet. RGB would be nice but its not a necessity I live in Australia so I go by AUD. Cheers, Elijah

Motherboard Suggestions will be nice (£200 GBP aroundish can go higher if needed - planning on upgrading to 5000s in future) CPU:3700x Motherboard: MSI MPG x570 Gaming Edge Wifi (Known to run hot, got it for like £60 of a friend who never used it tho). Hello, today I was just playing some games while watching netlix and my computer suddenly black screens, I looked inside the computer case and noticed that on my motherboard in the EZ Debug LEDS that the CPU was lit meaning it isn't detecting or it is dead (something a long those lines). At first I thought it might of Overheated but normally there is a Blue screen for that (I think). I left it to cool down and tried it about 10 minutes later and still nothing, just the Red LED, then I started to think if the mobo is dead or the socket at least as all fans are moving, gpu fans are on, (also chipset fan). I moved my CPU to my second PC to see if it was the CPU or mobo and it worked fine on my 2nd pc. I went back my main put it back in (reset bios/cmos as well) and still nothing. Is this due to a dead Socket? or could it be something else? If it is the motherboard and it has died, any recommendations? I can spend around £200 (GBP)(can go a bit higher if needed) Any information will help, if I am wrong about something please say as learning about these problems are very interesting to me. Edit: Also the case power buttons do not work (power button and cold restart).

Hello everyone I've just acquired a NVME ADATA Falcon disk to put on my B450M-A PRO MAX motherboard. its BIOS is up to date btw its currently installed as you can see https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/745988729654476801/847540999861305404/1622139912122.jpg?width=830&height=467 The problem that I've got here is that it isn't detected by Win10 whatever I've done. so far I've : - Cleaned CMOS - Tried Disk part - uninstalled the driver (which isn't reinstalled by windows) So far regarding this problem I've noticed that my BIOS detects this disk but say its incompatible (which should be compatible). For additional information my other disk is a normal hard drive i got 2 Rams boosted to 2666 (xmp active) Ryzen 3100 CPU GTX 1050 Graphic card if someone have any idea i'm all ears

I am looking to buy a motherboard with bifurcation function on it, anyone knows which mobos support that? I am looking for a server related build. Also i was looking for this expension card for my build but it says it is GEN 3. Will it work in GEN4 mode if i put it on Gen4 mobo with Gen4 NVMe?

I've been considering an upgrade of my AIO for a little while now and I need some help making a decision. For some background, I have a 5600x that I want to mildly to moderately overclock. Nothing super crazy. I will be upgrading a case fan or two as well to keep the system as quiet and cool as possible. My Priorities for an AIO: Quiet - def at the top of the list. My corsair cooler was way too loud, regardless of fan curve. Cool - my corsair cooler was also a little hot running my 4790k, though I know the 4790k was a hotter chip. Warranty - it has to be good. No less than 3 years. I want to keep my cooler running as long as possible. Corsair has a 5 year warranty, the closer to 5 year I can get the less worried I'll be. RGB - the space around my cpu socket has been missing some lighting effects since I put the stock AM4 cooler on. A nice to have, but not a deal breaker. Here's where I'm at: Option 1) Keep what I have My H115i is on the older end of the spectrum; hit it's 5th bday not too long ago. I think it would be a good candidate for reuse, but I'm apprehensive. I was overlooking a 4790k that admittedly wasn't very stable and at idle ran pretty hot. The cooler is now out of warranty, it's not AM4 compatible currently, and the fans are loud as hell. Grabbing an AM4 bracket and some quieter fans would be good, but would also get me close to my new AIO price bracket ($90-$150 USD). Let's say the price for fans and a bracket isn't close to my new AIO price range, the fact that the cooler is out of warranty worries me. Am I overthinking here? Option 2) New 280MM AIO I've been looking at new coolers and I'm intrigued by the options, but I haven't seen enough data on some of these coolers to make a good/informed purchase decision. There's a LOT of data on the Arctic LFii 280 and I'm impressed by the results. However, the warranty concerns me. 1-2 year warranty isn't going to cut it for me personally. NZXT Kraken coolers have always been old reliable, but I'm not stoked to jump into CAM software again. Has it improved at all? Is the high(er) price tag worth it? The new BeQuiet Pure Loop coolers look interesting as well. Not stoked on the warranty length, but I could live with a 3 year warranty considering it's competitors and it's included fill port. My only concern is I haven't seen enough data to verify is performance platform to platform. EVGA CLC 280mm is the cheapest cooler and has the longest warranty of the options I've seen. I haven't seen enough data comparing it to the AIOs above. Can anyone attest to it's noise levels and cooling potential? Option 3) Go for air? My last option to consider is to go for an air cooler that with keep everything cool and quiet. As long as it can fit in a Phanteks P400s and doesn't get close to my $90-$150 price range for an AIO, I'm happy. Definitely a long post, but I wanted to included as much detail of my scenario as possible. The less questions other members have to ask, the quicker I get the answers I need. I appreciate the help ahead of time! Thanks, Aaron

hey guys, i currently game on a ryzen 7 2700 on a Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING II ATX AM4 Motherboard. im curious if this motherboard can support 5000 series ryzen with a bios update. i cant find any documentation saying yes but i doubt it would. also at this point wouldnt be smarter to wait for the next socket? AM4 seems to be at its limit and i cant wait to see wait AMD has coming up.

I am trying to set up 4x4 bifurcation on my PCIe 16_1 slot that will allow me to use the Asus Hyper m.2 V2 with 4x NVME SSD's, as of now I can only get 2x of the drives to show. I am using these as scratch drives to dump files on too. Specs: Asus Crosshair VII Hero Wifi (X470) R9 3900xt 64GB Corsair Vengeance - 3200Mhz CL16 Boot drive - WD SN750 NVME 1TB + 5 sata drives EVGA GTX 1080Ti EVGA P2 850W Asus Hyper m.2 V2 w/ 4x Corsair MP600 1TB I have already done the following: I disabled my main m.2 slot (m.2_2), moved the Hyper m.2 to my PCIe 16_1 slot. enabled NVME RAID (will not run in RAID though), my 1080Ti is in my 16_2 slot for now. And I am updated to the latest Bios. I have verified compatibility via the product page. https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1037507/ And gone through all the required steps (as far as I know). Am I limited by lanes or is there another setting I am missing? Right now I can see 2 of the 4 m.2 drives. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'm building two new workstations. We decided to go (almost) full ham and got dual 1TB 980 Pro M.2 drives for each (among other various top components). I've got a pair of X570 based motherboards from ASUS and CPUs to go with them. Each motherboard detects the drives and allows me to assemble raid arrays, which show up fine in the BIOS. Hope someone here has dealt with something like this. Thanks for the read!2-sata-raid_setting.txt Basic Setup As I understand it, the basic setup procedure is: Enable RAID for NVMe (and SATA, according to manual/tech support) Reboot Create new RAID array Reboot Boot from Windows 10 Live USB (recently downloaded) Load the AMD RAID Driver (rcbottom, rcraid, rccfg) from USB drive Install Windows.... Profit! Status I have been unable to get past step 6. I can load the drivers. Windows even detects certain drivers as compatible with my hardware and only really lets me load one driver at a time, in the correct order. So I believe the hardware is all working as expected. Has anyone gotten NVMe RAID to work with ASUS X570-I, or any X570? I'm trying with the latest drivers and some older ones. Contacting Tech Support I've been in contact with ASUS's tech support, if you can call it that. They've instructed various changes to BIOS settings and driver installation, some making more sense than others: Install the drivers in the wrong order: "Make sure to locate this RAID driver select first the (rcraid) after that you need to repeat those steps then select rcbottom then lastly the rccfg." Install the drivers in the correct order (3 or 4 times) Enable SATA and put it in RAID mode (not using SATA at all) This only added a second "rcbottom" driver to the list of detected compatible Windows drivers. Disable CSM Enable CSM PBS & CBS Options (I forget exactly) Secure Boot -> Windows UEFI Things I've Tried Many Driver versions ASUS Support had me use this version: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/05SATA/DRV_RAID_AMD_RAID_Driver_TSD_W10_64_V930167_20210202R.zip DRV_RAID_AMD_RAID_Driver_TSD_W10_64_V93038_20200728R.zip mb_driver_bootdrv_hw10_raid_9.3.0.158.zip AMD RAID Driver 9.03.00.206 CC and NVMe versions Multiple BIOS revisions 2407 3402 Multiple Motherboards Multiple Drives Multiple Generations of CPU Multiple SSDs Systems As I mentioned, I'm building two similar new systems. Currently they are: AMD 5950X ASUS X570-I (BIOS Version 3402) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 64GB DDR4-4000 @ 4000MHz 450W Generic PSU in case (Also have 700W & 800W Seasonic) Nvidia GTX 1050Ti (Eventually getting a RTX 3090) 2x 1TB Samsung 980 Pro Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 Alternate PC AMD 3600G ASUS X570-I (BIOS Version 2407) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 64GB DDR4-4000 @ 2666MHz 150W Generic PSU in case Onboard graphics 2x 1TB Samsung 980 Pro Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 Things I Haven't Tried Yet Happy to try anything at this point, especially if anyone thinks certain things in particular are worth trying Can Linux see the RAID array Limit PCIe speed to Gen 3 Loading other drivers onto USB stick SATA RAID drives All permutations More BIOS revisions Sending back motherboard for RMA replacement Switching motherboards altogether Attachments Exported BIOS settings Screenshots

Hi, recently my msi x570 gaming edge decided to bootloop for no reason so I need new mtb, I'm deciding between asrock b550 steel legend and gigabyte aorus pro (maybe V2). Aorus has better vrm and ram oc, but steel legend has a post code. I don't know which to pick. Or any other mtb? If u know there is better mtb. I want it only for ram oc around 4000MHz cl 18 and my r5 3600 4.3 GHz, I know my components can do it, but on my dead x570 was horrible voltage regulation, so I needed like 1.38V to run 4.3

Hello! I am planning to build a new ITX/SFF PC in the near future. I want to use the Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX Mobo for the ryzen 3600 I already have. Currently I use 2X8GB ram dimms. But I want to know for future upgrades down the line if I can buy one single 16GB stick and later add a second one. Without performance issues. Is this possible or should I wait and save more money in a couple months and Buy 2 16gb stick directly?

So I just bought a Corsair H100 Pro Capellix AIO cooler... as far as temps go it’s fantastic... never above 40C under heavy loads on my 2700x (I know it’s old)... only problem is it makes a constant humming noise. I made sure to mount the pump at the lowest part of the loop, and even did some case gymnastics to make sure there was no air trapped in there. I tried to get the rpm on the pump lower to try and lessen the noise but the lowest speed is stil 2200rpm which is nuts. I’m fairly certain the noise is coming from a sympathetic vibration caused by the AM4 mount.. I ran the pump unmounted for a few seconds and it was basically silent. I’ve tried putting in some small rubber washers on the retention hook screws to lessen the vibration as well as using a thermal pad as opposed to paste for a little bit of vibration deadening as well... and it has has helped a LITTLE... my question is has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I rma it? Should I return it to Best Buy and get another H100i Rgb Platinum (non Capellix)? I used to have one but it was having problems disconnecting from usb (as that’s what Corsair used to power it) and I tried everything I could think of to trouble shoot it... to no avail so that’s why I got the new one (and the commander core wiring is SO much better than the Pro) but the hum is kinda driving me nuts as one of the reasons for water cooling besides temps is less noise... I wanted to stay in the Corsair family.. because although it’s far from perfect... iCue is the best combined RGB cooling/fan profile app app out there... and as we all know more RGB means more faster games right? also please forgive my use of “...” instead of proper punctuation... I just write in a stream of consciousness and whenever I finish a thought I always just add an ellipses (...)... sorry ill add a video of the noise it’s making when I get home later

Hey guys, experiencing the weirdest issue I have come accross and i'm stumped. Did a platform upgrade this week and picked up a 5600x, 32GB of memory and my B550 Tomahawk (A30 bios) But I'm having this weird issue where occasionally I fail to POST. The Ez Debug LED shows memory as the culprit. I've tried 2 different types of memory Oloy Warhawk (S/N:ND4U1632161DCWDX) and G Skill Trident Z (S/N:F43200C16D-32GTZR) Clearing CMOS doesn't help, seating the RAM in different slots doesn't really help either (Will post sometimes but not others). Finally got it to boot today after tossing in the Trident Z, but it's still inconsistent and memory only runs at 2667 instead of 3200. It'll survive a P95 Large FFT for a couple hours, but I am absolutely lost on what to do. So I'm reaching out to you lads for some ideas. Thanks in advance <3 Ps GME to the moon!

Hey there, I'am currently building a small DIY NAS for all my files. For Mainboard I wanna use a X570D4U from ASRockRack because its ECC support and IPMI features. At the beginning of the project I bought myself a Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4, cause I have had very good experience with it on my previous PC build. After I watched some Reviews of the Mobo and looked a little bit deeper into the pics, I saw that the RAM Slots and the CPU Fan mounting brackets are, due to better cooling in server cases turned by 90° on this board. But if I would install my CPU Fan like so, it would ventilate from the bottom of the case to the top or vice versa. So finally, is there anybody out there, who encountered this problem before or know, if I can turn my Fan by 90° degree to align it with the airflow in my case ? Thank You !

Hey all. Just tried to install my BRAND NEW AMD Ryzen 9 5900X CPU (100% NO BENT PINS) into an Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming motherboard (BRAND NEW, SOCKET LOOKED CLEAN). Let me just say this is not my first time installing AMD CPU's. What my installation procedure looked like: grounded myself lifted retention arm FULLY inspected socket inspected CPU pins matched the golden triangles carefully "dropped" the CPU into the socket (NO FORCE) lowered the retention arm FULLY (it required NO FORCE, as usual) The CPU effortlessly dropped into the socket, but I noticed it did not sit flush at one corner, with the retention arm up (just inserted) OR down (fully installed). NOTE: THE FIRST IMAGE PROVIDED IS NOT MINE, AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR REFERENCE: Now I didn't take a picture of the issue for the first time, but this image should give you a rough idea of how it looked. Please keep in mind IT WAS NOT THIS BAD, but when checking if the CPU was seated correctly, I COULD actually see a bit of a reflection from the golden pins in the same corner as depicted in the picture bellow - basically the CPU was lifting at one corner, which is not normal. I then proceeded to lift the retention arm fully, thus releasing the CPU. I carefully took it out, inspected the pins (NO BENT PINS IN ALL CASES) and tried to continue with the installation two more times. Yes, the socket lever was all the way up before inserting the CPU. In all of the cases the CPU never sat flush with the socket at the same corner. Because I then became quite disappointed and frustrated with the progress of the build, I decided to just very lightly hold the CPU down on opposite corners, while lowering the retention arm. Let me say I realise that this should not be done (I know it's a ZIF socket), however this is the only solution that seemed to have worked. THE IMAGES BELLOW SHOW THE ACTUAL STATUS OF THE COMPONENTS DESCRIBED IN THIS POST DURING MY LAST ATTEMPT: It is a bit hard to see, but the right corner is still slightly lifted, just not as much as before... Again - before I could actually see just a tiny bit of the gold, from the pins. What am I missing? I'd truly appreciate your help.. Thank you all for taking your time!

Hey guys! I'll be building a new Ryzen rig soon (waiting on GPU, like everyone else). For this build, I'll have to flash the bios (got an MSI B550 Gaming Edge Wifi board) in order for my 5600x to function. I'm fairly confident I know how to do this process (but hell, any pointers would be nice). My only question is after I flash the BIOS, when and how do I safely disconnect the power from the motherboard in order to continue assembling the computer? Thanks! Sorry if I chose the wrong forum, not sure where else to put this question.

bent my new amd ryzen 7 3800x cpu pins a little trying to force the cooler in. anyone know how to fix? thanks - john boy

TL:DR I think my AM4 CPU socket might be broken. Please check the attachments to see pictures and a short video, and let me know if you think this is normal behavior for these sockets, or if you think it's broken. I've been helping a friend of mine build a PC. Last night we got it all together, but it wouldn't POST. Long story short and many hours of troubleshooting later, I ended up taking it all apart today down to the barebones. Motherboard, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, PSU plugged in with just the 24Pin and both CPU power cables for good measure, nothing else is plugged in. When I power on the PC, I don't get anything displayed on the screen. Doesn't POST or get to the BIOS. All I get is a diagnostic light on the side of the board labelled "CPU", and it means exactly what you'd think it means (Motherboard manual says the code means CPU is not detected.) If I plug an HDMI into the motherboard it goes to the "VGA" light instead, and the manual says this means a CPU device isn't detected. Since it's onboard graphics, that'd essentially mean the same thing as the CPU code in this case. I decided to try and take out the CPU and check for bent pins or any damage to the socket. When I went to lift the CPU retention arm, I noticed it felt "stuck" about 90% of the way up, and the CPU wasn't moving at all like they usually do when you lift the arm. Normally you lift the arm, and the CPU slowly moves / follows in the direction of the arm as the plastic socket slides backwards with it, but the socket in my motherboard doesn't move nearly at all when I do this. Once I get 90% of the way up, the retention arm requires a large amount of force to move further, and then it eventually lurches with a very loud POP noise. I've attached a video showing this. Worrying the socket had somehow damaged the CPU, I removed it and checked for bent pins but luckily found none. This popping didn't damage the CPU at all, so I put it back in and very gently lowered the arm. Going down, the arm requires noticeably less force than other AM4 sockets I've installed CPUs into in the past, and it makes another strange (quieter) scratching noise while lowered. I also noticed that the socket doesn't seem to close all the way. If you check the pictures I've attached, I highlight what the socket looks like both open and closed, with a CPU installed and without. You can see the socket seems to move downwards and close completely with no CPU installed, but with one installed the socket doesn't seem to close all the way and there is a noticeable lip of plastic hanging out that is usually covered when the socket is closed without a CPU. I've also attached a picture "Closed Difference.png" that shows this lip more clearly. I've tried taking the CPU out and putting it back in upwards of 15 times now, each time trying to gently push the plastic socket in different directions with my finger, thinking the issue is the CPU pins aren't making contact with the pads under the socket cover. Each time I get the same issue, where it doesn't POST and the red CPU (sometimes VGA when an HDMI is plugged in) light turns on the board. I've also left the PC powered on for up to 10 minutes with the heatsink on it, then quickly powered down and removed the heatsink. It's basically stone cold, as if the CPU wasn't kicking out any heat at all because it's not powered. I'm hoping someone else who has an AM4 board can lend their insight here and let me know if they have the same experience with this socket, or if after all these hours of troubleshooting I'm just going crazy and seeing problems where there are none and my issue actually lies somewhere else. For the sake of following the posting rules, I'll post the specs and troubleshooting steps I've followed below. Any input at all would be appreciated. Thank you! SPECS: CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X RAM: 32GB GSkill Ripjaws V DDR4 3200MHz Mobo: MSI MPG AM4 x570 GAMING PLUS PSU: Corsair RM750x GPU: None (yet) Troubleshooting: - Unplugged / replugged all power cables from both motherboard and PSU side - Tried swapping to a spare PSU, and obviously used the proper cables for the different PSU - Tried spare RAM (1 stick DDR4) and also tried ALL sticks in ALL DIMM slots - Plugged in discrete GPU to bypass any potential onboard graphics issues. Same result. - Removed everything from the case, and unplugged anything unnecessary to reach POST. Only thing plugged in was motherboard, CPU, 1 stick RAM, 24PIN ATX and the CPU power cables. Same result, no POST. - Checked CPU for bent / broken pins - Used flashlight to check socket pads for damage, I can see gold in each hole. - Checked board for signs of damage (leaking / expanded caps, residue, etc) looks clean and new. 1452813811_BrokenSocket.mp4

Budget (including currency): Sub $250 if possible, USD Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: FreeNAS\TrueNAS? unRAID? Some Linux distro? Something like that. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): So the odds seem good that a prebuilt NAS would be more power efficient and easier to work with but I want something I can mess around with and change if I feel like it. I basically want something I can use as my own cloud storage, and to stream via Plex or Emby. Maybe back up my actual desktop to. I have an old PSU, case, Keyboard & Mouse, AM4 compatible air cooler, etc. So my cost is just in the core components here. I was thinking an Asus Prime B450M or Prime A520M? They seem reasonable for the low price. I'm mostly just wondering what the cheapest APU would be that would boot in either. Maybe Ill have to stick in a graphics card but if I can I would rather avoid it considering what it's going to be for. Might help with transcode for plex? Also 8-16Gb of cheap ram. Seems like a lot but apparently if I use ZFS, min requirement is 8Gb. So I was considering something like an Athalon 3000G or 200/220G. Would these work? I am ok with used parts, ebay, whatever. The problem is even these low end processors that retailed for $50 are $120+ now. Any recommendations of what would work well for this? This isn't a system that's going to get hit hard. Two users streaming at once max, I have two 4tb WD red hard drives and various other old drives I may shove in there.

Hi, first post here, I am having trouble with my newly refreshed PC. Been together for the best part of nearly 2 weeks and today the rear USB 2.0 ports decided they weren't going to work today, all other ports (UBB 3.0 / 3.1 / 3.2 / Type C) all work as expected, as do the front IO on the case. Only thing recently done since the upgrade was a reinstall of windows. ANY help or direction would be greatly appreciated, if it turns out to be a faulty MoBo the quicker I get it diagnosed the sooner I can get it replaced. Thanks again! Build: Gigabyte Aorus B550 Pro-p (New) Ryzen 5600x (New) Gtx 1070 600w PSU Win 10. *Edit* Bios and all driver/Chipset updates from aorus website have been installed at time of upgrade.

Hi all, I recently completed my first ever build (yay!). I am running a Ryzen 5 2600x on an asrock b450 steel legend am4 motherboard. I installed 16gb of corsair vegence 3600mhz ram, however in task manager the ram is rated as running at 2667mhz. I have entered the bios and set the XMP profile along with selected the correct memory speed however it is still not showing correctly. I have updated to the latest BIOS and still no joy. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to manually oc the ram in order for it to work? I know the ram is Ryzen compatible as it is branded as so on the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Happy holidays folks

I just bought Colorful cvn b450 Gaming V14 and i cant get my ram at 3200mhz even it shows an option for it in bios. instead it goes maximum at 2933mhz and when i try to go above than 2933mhz, it shows Blue Screen Of Death. Specs: ryzen 5 2600 Colorful cvn b450 Gaming V14 Gskill Aegis 8gb 3200mhz 1 stick giabyte gtx 1650 super ThermalTake 550 watt 80+Gold This is my first Pc and im completely noob at this. Please guide me what can i do? Thanks